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Love it. I'd pretty much decided not to buy anything more until 2.0 & Edge, given that I've been waiting for Nevada since purchasing the A-10C in beta (though this was a fairly recent decision - I already have CA, FC3, BS2 and the Mustang). The $15 price on the Sabre caught me, then I discovered a completely digital product was "out of stock". Ridiculous.

Do you have a link handy for what the price might be? IIRC, these were not cheap.

^^^ +1 Welcome to the insanity, and good job on the interface. :)

Isn't it also possible to adjust the slew rate using the MFD menus in-game?

Google images turns up a bit, like this: http://www.pprune.org/rotorheads/521177-looking-some-helicopter-switches.html

Well done, ED.

That's a builder, there ... "when", no "if". Great pit - clean, functional, ready for more.

I'm betting 64-bit Win 7 is what most folks around here use, so I'd doubt the OS is your problem. I for one use both the Cougar and Warthog and have had no issues (I don't use TARGET at all). Have you tried connecting the stick to a different computer? Were the stick and throttle both up-to-date on their firmware? Are you connecting through a USB hub?

+1 The mouse cursor already disappears after a short period of inactivity, which could be when it resets to the middle of the viewport. It'd be a non-issue for touchscreen users, since their "click" position will always be relative to the current view. This would be a great option.

Always appreciate your contributions, Flim!!

We pit builders wouldn't need anywhere near that resolution/quality, so I feel like it's just a matter of finding the right product. Like you, I know I've seen this sort of thing before, and I certainly wasn't playing with a $1000 product.

I did a little more hunting, since this sounded like such an awesome idea ... This is the only page I could find with any prices. http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/fiber-optics/fiber-optic-tapers-faceplates/1599

I'm hoping someone can help me track down an issue ... I have no axes assigned for ground vehicles, but the Y axis of my joystick appears to be acting as brakes. When driving around in a ground vehicle, I can't go very fast unless I pull back on the stick. I also discovered that my stick will steer the vehicle left and right, too. Again, I have no axes assigned for ground units. I've checked my control mappings and even gone as far as deleting my input folder entirely. Am I the only one with this problem? Anyone have an idea about how to fix it?

Could you clarify your question? Are you basing the 50% estimate on the RPM gauges in the front panel? If so, then you're fine - you don't actually want your engines to shut down at minimum throttle. Otherwise, if your joystick is only providing the "upper half" of it's travel, I suspect a calibration issue - open Game Controllers in Control Panel and calibrate your stick. Were you using a different controller before this?

See if you can find an old radio control transmitter (the kind used for model airplanes and helis). Make sure at least one of the sticks is 2-axis, and with a little fiddling you should be able to hook the pots up to whatever board you're using. You'll probably have to remove the springs from one of both axes to eliminate the return to center, and it'll probably still be too large to fit into a stick grip, but it's probably your best bet before a complete DIY solution or shelling out the money for a specialty component. EDIT: Something like this ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUTUBA-CONQUEST-FP-T6NFK-6-CHANNEL-R-C-TRANSMITTER-AND-SERVOS-/251294833977?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item3a8256dd39

Thanks so much, PeterP! Downloaded, installed and working.

Has anyone got a link (or can send me the file) for the 1.10b3 version iZ3D drivers? The link PeterP has posted no longer works, and I can't find it anywhere.

I'm not familiar with the i-pac, but a quick look at their website makes it appear that it is a HID device, capable of emulating a keyboard and other interface devices. The GP-wiz and Bodnar boards are specifically joystick controllers, so they are most certainly not the same. Your computer won't care if it boots up with a joystick button "pressed" (which is what it will see if the "button" is actually a toggle switch making contact between two pins), but it might have a problem if it boots and thinks a keyboard key is being held down (which may be why the i-pac folks are telling you not to use that type of switch).

If you haven't recently, I suggest reviewing this post: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65998 Either the Bodnar or GPWiz cards will work as an interface for simulator switches. The number and type of buttons, switches and dials you plan on having will determine what makes the most sense.

If ThrustMaster "needs" to do anything, they "need" to start selling the circuit boards contained in the grip, so builders can make good on the old promise of interchangable grips that was made back with the Cougar.

Sticky thread in the Home Cockpits section is what you need. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65998

VERY NICE!!! Well done, sir! Love the rounded intersection between modules, and totally dig the collective. Very cool - great ideas.

What works for me is turning my head first to look directly at the switch (or panel) I'm dealing with, then move the mouse without moving my head. It takes a bit of practice, and it's subtle, but moving both at the same time tends to create the chasing effect Lange mentioned.

I'm in the same boat as most - whatever is most appropriate for the model you're replicating, especially if there's no difference in the information displayed. If the new UFC has additional functionality, then make sure it can be done right. If there's some way to allow the new display to display red lettering, even if it's a few lines to edit in a LUA file somewhere, I'm fully on-board. Also, I think the new one would be easier to accurately replicate for pit builders.

How would this be held in place on the throttle? If it were me, I might incorporate a couple tabs and use the two bolts holding down the cover over the afterburner detent selector. Otherwise, a quick and easy cosmetic solution.