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CubPilot

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  1. Same here Latest update changed the shortcut to open the sim, I don't know what it changed it to. I can't open the sim. My antivirus (Avira)went nuts and Q'ed about 16048 files! I'm guessing that's about the whole download, didn't use Torrent. I saw this tagged to some of the files in this update I did on 2/14/2020: Name HEUR Date Discovered Mar 2, 2018 Type Malware. The rest were marked suspicious. :no_sad: DCS is out of my reach. :cry_2:
  2. Yes, i think the Wingman website is gone. Attached zip file may help. :pilotfly: Wingman.zip
  3. There are a few things. I think that the earlier poster did a good job with his chair Joystick mount, but the joystick is a bit too tall for my tastes. I designed my mount to be as sturdy as it could be using this material and mounting it on an office chair (still haven't done anything about locking the swivel). First, I suggest using Schedule 40 PVC drain pipe, it has a thick wall. I used 2-3/8" to 2-1/2'' outside diameter pipe (whatever the standard size that fits the fittings). Also, I kept the pipe lengths as short as I could as shown below. The shorter the lengths of pipe the sturdier /less flexing there will be. I also used hardwood, about 3/4" thick, it holds the screws better than soft wood & you don't need much (be sure to pre-drill any holes needed for screws, etc.). A lot of the info about what fittings I used I believe is still there back further in this thread. I found that a shower drain matched the diameter of the Warthog's joystick base perfectly, so that is what I used. It comes as a kit, the bottom drain, rubber gasket, and the top of the drain which you would see in use And screws into the bottom part of the drain. The top, what the Warthogs base is attached to, is threaded to fit into the drain base, the part of the drain that you don't see when using this stuff for its intended use. There are two flavors of shower drains, an offset style, which is what I used and one that is not offset. This gives you some choices about what works for you the best. The offset drain can be used as I have it or turned 180 degrees to take a little bit further away from you, more choices. Most of the details have been covered in the previous posts on this subject. Notice how short the pipe is between the flange fitting and the 90 degree elbow, no flexing there. Also I looked for a fitting that had a thick flange (touching the wood), again thinking about strength, thicker is better. The vertical wood piece fits into a dado on the horizontal wood piece, it's a tight fit, glued and screwed. That is not moving either. To the right you can see a piece of 1/16" aluminum that attaches to the wood and then to the front bolts of the chair/base, the second attachment is not shown. To the left notice the small screw going up into the front of the chair, there three sheet rock screws holding the front of the bracket. This is the only pipe joint which I glued. The vertical joints are held in by three sheet metal screws (pre-drill the holes). Why do this? So i could experiment with different joystick heights with out making the whole joystick mount over again. I may just leave the screws in there, never know when I might change my mind about it. Also note that you can move the dado fore and aft if you plan ahead. This would allow you to keep the horizontal fittings/pipe as short as I have it, but there are limits, no more that about 1/2" from either end of the horizontal board. Notice that I cut the flange flat so the round part of the horizontal fitting fits up against the wood, just some more insurance against flexing / movement. Originally the vertical wood piece was as wide as the top piece of wood. I trimmed the bottom of the vertical wood piece as shown so that I would not hit sharp edges with my legs if I were to tuck them under the chair. Been thinking about how to lock the Joystick to the PVC so it doesn't turn. I think if I cut one side vertically through the threads in the bottom half of shower drain I can then attach two 90 degree brackets with which I can attach to the drain (on each side of the vertical cut) & tighten the thread up on the mating part with the joystick screwed to it using a screw through the 90 degree brackets. Now about the second question you had about an extension. Raising the whole joystick higher will not do anything to alter the sensitivity of the joystick for helicopters, AA refueling, etc. Only a joystick extension between the joystick base & the joystick handle will do it. Keep in mind, the longer the joystick shaft the more leverage, and hence force, that you can very easily impart to the plastic gimbal parts in your Warthog base, to the point of breaking something in there. Also, the longer the joystick shaft, the more movement you will get measured at the top of the joystick. It could come to the point that you would hit your body (or desk, instrument panel, etc.) before you had full travel in your joystick! I know these examples are extreme cases, but just wanted to highlight them a bit to get you thinking about this stuff. I think Metalwood suggested to limit extensions to about 3 to 4 inches. If he is still around you might ask him what he thinks & maybe how longer ones held up. Cheers
  4. Are you talking about the AutoHotkey Track IR Center/Pause info? This thread went into other items & using similar solutions to those first posted. Are you saying if you use TARGET for your Mig 21 profile, Autohotkey doesn't work? More specific info about the problem you are having would be helpful. -CubPilot :pilotfly:
  5. Well this is going to be a bugger to fix I guess. There is a program called USBDeview that lets you view all installed/connected USB devices on your system here at http://www.nirsoft.net/ It also lets you reset any old entries that may have been connected (my Cougar HOTAS has not been connected to my computer for ages, but there is a reference to it in my system that this software still sees). I know that the Cougar had a similar problem sometimes and deleting/resetting old references to it in this program fixed it. Plugging in the Cougar after the reset just created new USB port info that worked. Just be careful, it's a powerful program. Another thing it could be is a bad solder connection somewhere in the Warthog. I assume this had worked at one point because you would probably have sent it back to TM. You should contact TM if you haven't already.
  6. Well this is going to be a bugger to fix I guess. There is a program called USBDeview that lets you view all installed/connected USB devices, as well as all USB devices that you previously used on your system. Go here at http://www.nirsoft.net/ It also lets you reset any old entries that may have been connected (my Cougar HOTAS has not been connected to my computer for ages, but there is a reference to it in my system that this software still sees). I know that the Cougar had a similar problem sometimes and deleting/resetting old references to it in this program fixed it. Plugging in the Cougar after the reset just created new USB port info that worked. Just be careful, it's a powerful program. Another thing it could be is a bad solder connection somewhere in the Warthog or a bad USB cable. I assume this had worked at one point because you would probably have sent it back to TM. You should contact TM if you haven't already.
  7. Is this a new Warthog HOTAS or a used one? Install the latest TM Warthog HOTAS drivers. Be sure to connect the USB to a powered USB port or directly to your computer (not a un-powered USB HUB for instance). - Be sure that the two HOTAS Warthog components are installed correctly and appear as standard "HID-compliant game controller" in Device Manager. - Both devices should also be working correctly in Game Controller If one or both of the HOTAS Warthog components are not enumerated correctly, or display a "!" in Device Manager, try connecting them to another USB port. That's a start. If that doesn't work your warthog may not have any firmware in it. There is a Bootloader method in the PDF attachment below that shows How to wake your HOTAS Warthog if it is no longer recognized on PC (i.e. in the event of firmware loss). Hope this helps! :D thr_eng_00140.pdf
  8. Sapphire AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 + EK H2O block & Backplate
  9. That's great that you got it working as you wanted. As they say, Give a man a fish & you feed him for a day. Give a man a fish pole & some bait, you feed him for a lifetime! (well, something like that, or until the bait runs out :smilewink:). :pilotfly:
  10. I think it will work with the latest TIR software, but I haven't tested it yet. As to your wanting to use a modifier I think that post #45 & 46 gives you what is needed. To understand the AHK code here are some tips (I'm no expert either). Anything to the right of a ";" is not code and does nothing when the program is run, it is usually describing what the code does to the left of the ";" if the creator chose to do this. So, "1joy6" means, if you read the description, Windows controller #1, joy button #6. (you can discover button numbers using windows Controller Settings/Properties). There are 2 loops in the post #46 code. Loop #1 starts at the beginning of the code. Inside loop #1 is a second loop #2, beginning with the "IF" statement and ending with the first "return" statement. It will loop until the buttons described in the loop are pressed, etc as coded there. It then goes to the second "return" statement and loops back to the very first line in the code. Hope this is of some help. :pilotfly:
  11. An AutoHotKey script might do what you want. It is very light on computer resources, you won't know it's running. No TARGET software needed. I have my TrackIR Center & Pause mapped to the warthog joystick pinky lever, both items on the same button, using a short button press & long button press. Link. A few posts below this is one for assigning a VAC radio button mapped to an unused warthog throttle radio button position. It looks complicated, but that's because I wrote detailed instructions. You might look at it to get some ideas on how to do what you want to do. :pilotfly:
  12. Hmmm hadn't thought about other aircraft and the TM Warthog, been using the A-10C for which the Warthog is plug & play in DCSW. The switch bindings in DCSW have a limitation when the LUA files are created. Let's consider the FLAP switch. It is a 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) switch . The actual switch makes contact (consider it as button pushes) in the up and down positions only. When a switch or button makes an electrical connection a unique value will be sent to the sim's software via LUA script. The problem is that no LUA script will be created when a connection is broken such as in the case of the Flap switch when put in the middle "OFF" position. So, one way to deal with this is by modifying the LUA script for the aircraft in question. What you do is to write a LUA statement that will send a value to the sim software when a connection is broken. I believe the LUA files you would alter would be in your Saved games folder inside your User Name folder for the particular aircraft you want to alter the LUA files for. Tigershark has some very good videos on how to do this, here http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65998. If you go to the last post in this thread and back a few there is a good example (post 285) that shows the current LUA code that deals with switches and buttons and how to alter it (I think the video was from the beta era of DCS A-10C & the LUA code looks different from how it is now). This is one way to do it without loading any profiles from another software. :pilotfly:
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