Teeps

Nice video, I liked the air-to-air rocketry!

I'm sure it's not the recommended thing to do, but sometime ago I cut away about half the centre-ing spring on my X45. This means I have much less resistance to movement, and a no-resistance zone in the centre. The upshot is that most of the time I don't need to trim, just change where I'm positioning the stick in the no-resistance zone. The only downside is that the stick doesn't return to centre on it's own now.

I've seen the same thing in the English version.

That's exactly how it behaves when the cable is failing. It's a cheap fix, just takes a little time to do all the soldering.

Just to be clear, you don't need to open it up to do the wax thing, just do it from above, if you see what I mean... Now I think we're experiencing different things, as you sound like you're describing detents on the throttle travel? My X45 never had any detents, gates, or locks on the throttle, just the adjustable throttle friction.

Not sure if this is what you're experiencing, but I'll throw it in in case it's useful for anyone... IMO, the weak point of the X45 design (and as far as I know the X52 too, but I haven't seen one in the flesh) is the cable linking the two units. It's got a 15pin D connector at one end, but the other end is hardwired into the throttle. Over time and with repeated flexing from movement (like putting the HOTAS away off the desk, for example) the cable starts to fail, leading to erratic uncommanded throttle movements due to noise spikes in the cable. You can try chopping a few inches of the plug end and rewiring it with a new plug, but I think in the end it needs that cable replacing. I'm working up the enthusiasm to do this, and I think what I'll do is mount a 15pin connector on the throttle so that I can use a replaceable cable to link them. The other thing I'd mention is that if you're experiencing a sticking stick, i.e. notchy resistance to bank and pitch, try rubbing candle wax on the rubber boot at the base.