mondaysoff

Nothing happens until the rotors have completely stopped.

Pictures for post #20 I'll get the hang of this one day.

With the pipe section you have two blanking caps, one double pipe connector and a 1 metre length of single socket soil pipe, all 120mm. This was all purchased from Screwfix.com. For the base blanking end cap, once you have found your comfortable position (distance from pedals and stick) you can drill your holes through the blanking cap the size of your bolts, I did four. Then place in position on the base board and drill through the wood, fix to the board using desired nuts, bolts and washers. This is now ready to accept the double connector fitting, once in place you can to stop this section from turning inside the joint (It didn’t with mine, a very snug/tight fit) by making a pilot hole and using 20mm self tapping screws to secure, I did five around the base and five at the top where the WH meets the top blanking cap. I didn’t use glue just incase of any future adjustments were required. Now you can insert your 1 mtr piece of soil pipe into the double connector, you will need to cut this piece to your desired length, always cut the bottom end, the narrower end, the wider end, the top will take your other blanking cap with the WH attached. Once your desired length is achieved you can now fix this in place with more self tapping screws if you wish, to the top section of the double connector joint (I didn’t, because I found it quite solid enough). The blanking cap is the perfect diameter for the base of the Warthog stick to sit on and is roughly the same thickness as the original steel square base, so the screws can be reused. To mount the cap to the Warthog stick you will first require a piece of tracing paper ( haven't used that since primary school days), remove the metal base from the stick and place the tracing paper over the holes of the metal base and mark with a pencil, be careful not to move the paper whilst doing this. When you have your pencil marks, get a ruler and draw two straight lines from the top and bottom holes and the same for left and right holes, that should give you a centre point. There is a small centre point marking on the blanking caps to match up with your tracing, best to sellotape this in place and drill the holes, just make pilot holes for this end the screws will self tape into the plastic and make for a sturdier fit. Before securing with self tappers and if you are not using an extension, place the WH into the pipe and adjust for comfort, then secure. Thanks for your interest and I hope this explanation helps.

Have you considered using JSGME with Devrim's cockpit? Just unload before DCS update and load back in after. Good for a lot of mods actually.

Thank you cichlidfan for your +rep, have only just noticed. I can't stress enough how much more smoother and accurate flying is with this setup, including using the warthog extension. I didn't think I could enjoy DCS anymore than I already did. Thanks again Rosco for showing your design.

Havner, Thank you, I would love to have the code for this function, not just to use it, but also to see how it is written and compare it to what I have started to read in the Script Editor manual. I have a hungry appetite for wanting to learn more about this, so I am going to dive in to TARGET and try and do things for myself. Of course if an lua script comes up I will still give that a go. Oh, and Havner, no pressure for this favour, whenever you get time. Thx.

Hi guys, I would like to fly the Black Shark with the collective brake as a real pilot would, and to make my flying a more smoother experience. I have read a post recently about automatically applying the collective brake when the throttle is moved forward or aft, but that was made in the X52 pro software. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1800980#post1800980 I have just purchased the Warthog Hotas and wondered if anybody out there new of a way this could be achieved, preferably not with TARGET,(but if that is the only way, that's ok) maybe with in- game lua script or something. The only binding I have setup outside of DCS is through AutoHotkey which uses the paddle switch on the stick to centre and pause TIR5. At the moment I have the brake function set to a button on the throttle quadrant, but haven't had much of a chance to try it out yet. I wouldn't know where to start with this as my knowledge of lua scripting is non existent, I would love to have the time to try and get my head around it, so I wouldn't have to keep asking here. Any help would be much appreciated.

OK, pedal and stick floor mount now complete. I have really enjoyed making this setup, and what's best is, it hasn't cost me a fortune, I paid about £20 for the black plastic pipe and fittings, and £40 for a 10cm Warthog extension from Wasy100, everything else has been scrounged from around the house, garage and attic, I very rarely throw anything away. I used 12mm MDF board for the throttle slide and 12mm chipboard for the floor mount, all nuts, bolts, screws and washers collected over the years, already had the grey and black paint, the under board supports are unused cupboard feet from an IKEA furniture pack, which I might add grip the carpet like glue. Now all I have to do is learn to adjust from Desktop control to a more real life situation, before this setup I used a Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X, (which will be up for sale soon) so the Warthog is a brand new experience for me, as soon as I received the Warthog in the post, it was being measured up for this setup, so has not been used in DCS yet. I have had the MFG’s for about six months, so I am used to them now, I have never had pedals before, so I jumped straight in with the Crosswind’s. IMO these two devices, although extremely expensive, are a match made in heaven, I know just sitting here with my feet on the pedals, right hand on the stick (extension included) and left hand on the throttle, I just know MY DCS experience is going to increase 10 fold. Once again, without Rosco’s imagination and pictures I would probably still be playing from the desktop. My apologies for the sideways pictures, I must be doing something wrong, they are the correct way up before I upload them. Many thanks.

OK, understood. I was reading the manual on Starfoce activation and deactivation when I did mine, it must be out of date, clearly says you will be given an activation code. Thanks for clarifying.

Do you loose an activation on the very first install?

I recently deactivated all my 11 modules using the Protect.exe in every case, I got a message at the end of each process saying deactivation successful, but was not offered any sort of re activation code, therefore loosing 11 activations in one go, so yes, something here needs to change.

Thank you Rosco for posting your ideas and giving me the inspiration to do something interesting with my TMWH.. The throttle slide took me about 3 days to make, about three hours each day including painting and an awful lot of head scratching, your drawings helped a lot. I'm not going to copy your joystick setup, but rather try and make something where the pedals and joystick are attached to a base board and I will probably purchase an extension for the stick, probably around the10cm mark, as I fly heli's mainly.. As you can see from the pictures it is still early days, cables and wires everywhere. I think I have sussed out how the TIR cables will run, basically everything under the desk. My only head scratcher at the moment is the keyboard, running out of room underneath, hopefully with the new TMWH I won't need to use it much anyways. Will post more pics when complete.

This is for the A-10C, I'm sure if you look at the file structure/script from this mod you maybe able to modify other aircraft. http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/374967/

There is also a For Sale section in the PC Hardware and Related Software Page.

Rather than me try to explain questions 1 & 2 (I'm terrible) take a look at these tutorials. Going back to your comms problem, it is also important to have your SPU9-PTT button bound to "RAlt\" keyboard command.

OK, have you got easy comms set in options? Have heard that it is bugged.

Hi,This is a script i have been using for about 18 months. All credit goes to "Grimes" and his incredible knowledge, I have been using Mist v3.3 and works just fine. loop patrol 1.txt

Serial # 0351 Callsign Pointerman Location Kent UK

I have just lost 11 activations in one go. The computer was due to be moved to another room, I wanted a clean install of DCS after 4 years and I have just purchased my TM Warthog, so I thought a fresh start in DCS would be great. I went through the process of deactivating my 11 modules via the protect.exe file in the bin folder of each respective module, and at no point was I offered a re activation code. A box appeared saying that the deactivation was successful and to use the module again I would need to input licence key, or words to that effect, I did not see this box below with any of the 11 deactivations. Have I overlooked something? s it a bug? Then I deactivated Combined Arms again to see if i had missed anything, I hadn’t. Then I tried to reactivate a different way. I generated an activation key and tried that way, no joy, the hardware code displayed is totally different from the one displayed in my profile on ED site, and cannot copy and paste into box below. Now totally confused. Has anyone been successful in doing this? I would be pleased to know.

If it is the hard copy (disc) yes, you have to install it and run it once, then install BS2. I would imagine it would be the same for a digital copy, not sure.

36728 London UK

The full manual resides in the DCS directory, go to DCS/Mods/aircraft/Ka-50/docs, and that goes for all aircraft you wish to read up on. DOH unknown beat me to it.

This is how I am going to set up my TH Warthog when it arrives, and I will probably purchase the extension from this guy http://sites.google.com/site/warthogextension/ wasy100 from this forum. This is a snippet from an email sent to me from Milan (MFG Crosswind Developer) when I asked him about joystick advice; "My two cents... - I have TM warthog and it's GRIP is of supreme quality. If you ask me grip alone is worth 350$...so go for it. Gymbal of warthog is not so great in my opinion, plastic, can be broken easily, too hard around center, has some stickction problems etc. However it can be improved if you purchase a good extension" Hope this helps.

I can also vouch for this headset, slightly off topic, my apologies. Recently purchased along with Voice Attack, I have only gone through windows voice training once and VA picks up 100% accuracy for me so far.

Thanks for your advice guys, guess I'm going to have to get a second rig then if I want to get deeper into DCS. Anybody know if I could use the iMac just as a monitor plugged in from a second rig?