PiedDroit
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Posts posted by PiedDroit
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Move your upper body as well. Not ideal but allows to check further behind. Leaning a bit on the opposite side helps making that movement when the hands are busy.
Dogfighting in the rift is quite a workout ;)
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Ok then, I didnt check the axis in DCS but it felt like there wasnt the same accuracy but I might be wrong...anyway, doing both thing would give the same results right??
I didn't say it had the same accuracy (between hw deadzone vs. 1% deadzone in DCS),
I'm just saying that instead of toggling hw deadzone on or off depending on the aircraft, you could also leave it disabled (and calibrate the stick of course) and add (or not) 1% deadzone in DCS depending on the aircraft.
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The problem is that, if Im correct, by disabling hardware deadzone and adding an 1% dead zone in games, you are cutting some input response...I mean, if that 1% correspond to 300 points of response, then you will have zero response between 0 and 0,99999 and as soon as you reach 1% you will get suddenly 300 points of input. Again, Im not sure if this is correct, but I think it makes sense and its what I felt when I did that same configuration...also, that explains why we have a "hardware deadzone" setting, because otherwise those configs would be the same thing right??
the deadzone won't make a sudden 300 input, it will start at 0, if you look at the curve you will see what I mean (just play with the deadzone slider in DCS).
The DCS axis tune translates stick input into game input, the curve shows the stick input on the horizontal axis and the game input on the vertical axis.
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I tried calibrating with it disabled but I guess as it has to do with the physical part of the stick no matter how much you calibrate it, you will never be able to maintain the joy in a perfect center position.
Btw...how the hell can I DELETE a key bind in the "layers" panel in TARGET??? damn, I cant delete it once assigned :mad:
I depends on your flying style and how your stick is configured.
I modded mine so I get almost no resistance in the center and resistance increase when going outside of the center (for choppers and also to have more natural feeling of controls, I don't want F-16 style stick resistance), so having extra precision in the center is pretty good for me (I'm still testing without the HW deadzone enabled but I didn't have much time to fly recently).
If you have the stock joystick, going out of the center area always require some force, so I guess in that cas it's better to have the HW deadzone and use it "F-16 style". So what's works for will probably not work for you :D
Hence my very first answer to this thread.
P.S.: To keep things flexible, maybe you can have the HW deadzone disabled, then calibrate your stick, and setup a 1% deadzone in DCS depending on the aircraft?
I can't help you on TARGET GUI, never used it sorry...
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Nice ! I solved the mass balance issue by tilting the base a bit, works for any extension.
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One could say it is already there but right now it's not very flexible (see 3-positions and 2-positions abstraction in the M-2000C).
Having a "on release" modifier in the controller settings (assign button) would make it universal, without the need for tweaking the control luas :thumbup:
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I still make mine too (with rotating nut like on TMW and cables inside) www.simpit.co.nz . I have sometimes problems with customs if they don't get response from recipient otherwise it's ok)
I got one of those, love it :thumbup:
The design is really good.
I also bought one of the simpler design (i.e. metal tube with thread) from another seller but I ended up keeping the one with the nut as is was much easier to use.
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I think I may have figured it out. I usually just calibrate the HOTAS using TM's calibration tool. I decided to calibrate using the windows tool and I think that was the culprit. I now can adjust engine RPM between the idle detent and the afterburner detent.
Thanks Vladinsky and PiedDroit for your suggestion!
Another problem bites the dust! :thumbup:
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Not sure to understand...
First, which aircraft are you trying to tune the detent for?
Second, what do you mean by:
When throttle is idle, you get military power in game? Or vice versa?It seems idle is at military power (68-74% -depending on settings).
Do you mean that you move the throttle and in game, nothing happens between idle position to the detent? There is something seriously wrong with your throttle if that's the case :wassat:Nothing happens between the idle detent and military power (start of the afterburner detent) - no change in RPM. I am only able to move between idle and afterburner passed the afterburner detent.Normally to adjust the point where the detent is, you only need to set the axis to "slider" mode and adjust the curve.
Also when doing the calibration, make sure to go past the the detent to the full range of the throttle. If it's obvious to you, perfect :)
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I set it in the TARGET Gui and yes, after some testing I think enabled is the best of both worlds :thumbup:
I also did the calibration with it disabled but for some reason (I guess it doesnt matter how much you try you will always have some dead zone in the physical stick) when leaving the stick centered its a bit aligned to the right (just a bit).
My bad about leaving it enabled, it stay as you leave it when you close terget :) (sadly this is not the case with the back light intensity :huh:)
You'll find the setting you like best ;)
I never had it disabled before so I disabled it, did the calibration (as without it the stick is a bit off center) and I will test it for a while to see if it makes a difference at all. It seems it is a bit more sensitive in the center.
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How do you launch them? Via script editor every time?
Отправлено с моего GT-I9082 через Tapatalk
Yes. I start TARGET script editor, choose my profile, then run, it takes 10 seconds.
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Where exactly do you set it?
It seems I don't have the control panel installed, the only place I could see this setting is in the TARGET GUI, and it was enabled.
Since I never bothered with this setting I can't really tell you about it - ff you really need an answer I'd suggest leaving it enabled ;)
P.S.: Maybe you'll fix your centering issue by doing the stick calibration in windows (with hardware deadzone disabled)?
I tried a bit this setting a bit since you asked the question, for me it doesn't seem I need to have a profile to be running for the deadzone setting to take effect.
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Hey guys, I have a question out of curiosity. Are contact lenses not an ideal solution for VR users who need corrective lenses?
Prior to VR finally coming into it's own I'd definitely have opted for glasses if my vision started to deteriorate. After DK1 I'd have definitely gone for contacts for this reason alone. I'd be curious to know if that's the wrong route to take, just in case I do get to where I need them.
If you're comfortable with contacts then you're golden. There won't be any distortion unlike glasses.
Also using contact or glasses is really a personal thing. You may or may not be OK with them - try and see.
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I would like to post my experience with VR lens lab and needing glasses.
I did buy and try the inserts. They fit Ok after fooling a bit.
However, I found the focus at the edge of my vision was worse than with regular glasses.
I brought them to a optician to have them, and me, tested.
She said they perfectly matched my prescription, even side to side.
She could not understand why they would not work!
I bought a new pair of glasses that are wire rims, very small and fit close to my face. $135.00
Problem is solved. They fit well with plenty of clearance and make putting the head set on and off much easier.
I only use them only for the rift to reduce wear and tear.
YMMV
Maybe the reason is that the VR lens is not on your eye directly, and not perfectly centered centered. With prescription glasses the lense is cut so it is centered when the glasses are on your nose.
Also even with prescription glasses, the vision on the edges will have a bit of distortion, only the center will be in perfect focus, so having the VR lenses a little off center or a little too far from the eye will make this distortion more noticeable.
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It's not too long to get into a module like the M-2000C or the Viggen, learning where the switches are is quick, you just need to make sure to write down some the procedures and practice them.
This will depend how familiar you are with basics of aircraft handling and systems.
Usually I the traning missions one to several times each depending on my succcess, I study the manual and I build practice missions to test certain aspect of the aircraft that are more complicated (for the M-2000C, it was mostily the INS and the use of the radar), then I'm good to go.
During that time I also build my controller profile in a incremental way.
Since those new aircraft have clickable cockpits, it's usually fast, a couple of axis to tune, HOTAS buttons plus maybe one or two switches hard to reach in the cockpit, and it's done. FC3 aircraft take much longer to configure, controller-wise as they don't have clickable cockpits.
In terms of timeframe, this usually takes a week (maybe two if I don't spend much time on it) or even just a week-end if I dedicate my time to it. Of course mastering the aircraft will take longer ;)
If you're new to aircraft systems and (radio-)navigation, it might take a while longer for you grasp everything, but learning the basics will be helpful in the long run - in my case this even helped me to land a job
.As the recommendation for a strike aircraft, well the Viggen seems the ideal candidate hehe (but beware, no moving map nor fancy avionics).
Otherwise the A-10C is slow and cosy (modern avionics, moving map, targetting pod), great for target plinking.
M-2000C is not really a strike aircraft, sure it can drop bombs and rockets but if you're planning to use it for this sole purpose it will be frustrating.
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PiedDroit, I performed following:
- made .fcf profile in TARGET
- added a needed features with a scripts to appropriate .tmc
Then I run that .fcf and it worked propely like I wanted. But after editing of .fcf the .tmc script was reseted to the state accordong .fcf without any my script addings.
I suspect the same behaviour for .tmh
Also I can approve that TMHW is away of USB 3.0. I know that people had a troubles using this sequence (not fatal).
Отправлено с моего GT-I9082 через Tapatalk
I suspected so about the .fcf. I don't have much experience with it as I only made my profiles through the TARGET script editor, so, this is good to know.
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I went with the VR Lens Lab solution. The prescription lenses stay in the headset and you hardly know they are there. They make a big difference vs wearing regular glasses. The lenses are easily removable if you want to let someone else use your Rift/Vive.
That's useful indeed!
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The deadzone setting depends on the physical stick and your own feelings, so it will vary greatly.
If you like the stick without it, don't add it ;)
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I think it must have something to do with the style of glasses as well, there are plenty of people using the rift with glasses and plenty complaining they don't fit.
Mine are not really fancy, they barely fit in width, they were stuck a bit.
The other issue is that I couldn't put the CV1 on while wearing the glasses, I had to fit the glasses inside the rift first, then put CV1+glasses on at the same time.
And while wearing everyting, I had very little room to wiggle without having the glasses touching the CV1's lenses.
To solve that issue I would need glasses that filt really close the the face (with eyelashes brushing on the lenses haha)...
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Pssst....the glasses shop have glasses that are thight to your face. If you take a smaller glasses you're in.:D
Well I would need to bring my friend's CV1 to shop to make sure it fits :music_whistling:
It's a maybe, for now I'll wait and see :p
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This is not the only reason as far as I'm concerned.Already saving up for CV2, the only shortcoming I can see with CV1 is that we have got so used to crystal clear hi res monitors over the last few years, [..]I wear glasses and using the CV1 was really a pain with them :(
I think if the CV1 was comfortable in that regard I might have bought one but to me the discomfort with glasses makes it a no-go.
I'm waiting for more adapted designs to hit the market, such as hinge mounted displays, like the Playstation VR for example (or
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Great! That's what I needed ))
But if I'll set it in *.tmh, would not it reset after *.fcf was edited?
It will probably reset, if you modify your .fcf (I guess), I can't tell you as didn't experiment with .fcf. Just try it ;)
Wow!, you guys are REAAALLY joystick gurus!!:) incredible what you can do with the warthog, but also requires a hell of a time investment to learn it.About the leds, you can change intensity but not sure if the color. Also, is it normal that in the intensity slider there is always a noth that doesnt seem to work?? I mean if I test from off to max intensity there is always (randomly) one of the levels that does nothing :huh:...very weird.
Hope it stays with me MANY years without breaking.:thumbup:
For the leds, I told you it was a bit flaky, some users had more chance than others. I'm not using them at all now since for me it was making my profiles unstable (sometime it would stop responding and I need to stop and restart).
Also depending on which intensity value it was more or less stable.
I don't know the exact reason but some user once hinted it would be power issue, changing it would affect the board's other components.
The slider has a little bump in the middle, it's normal. In that middle area values don't update.
P.S.: Attention:
Important thing with the WH: avoid plugging it into a powered USB hub or on an USB 3.0 port without doing a bit of reading first.
Some users had bricked throttles (read: dead board) because of that kind of thing. I also had this kind of issues too with USB 3.0 ports, I didn't brick it but the throttle would stop working from time to time and I needed to unplug/replug (even with the port set to not go to sleep mode in windows).
It only got well as soon as I used the PC USB 2.0 ports or an unpowered USB 2.0 HUB with buttons to switch off the ports. I also make sure not to boot the PC with the ports connected, just in case.
If you take care of this you shouldn't have any nasty issue.
Again, it's variable, some user use it on USB 3.0 without issues, some other not.
If you treat it right it will give you long years of service ;)
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One very happy Rift owner here guys, thanks again!
:thumbup:
Glad you like it, especially considering your eyes. Cheers :pilotfly:
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If you want to keep the stick and throttle separate (so the default DCS profile still works), but also use TARGET for external commands...
In your .tmh file, replace this line:
if(Init(&EventHandle)) return 1;
with these three:
Configure(&Joystick, MODE_KEEPENABLED); Configure(&Throttle, MODE_KEEPENABLED); if(Init(&EventHandle, CREATE_KEYBOARD+CREATE_MOUSE)) return 1;
Yup, but bear in mind that when doing this your "Thrustmaster Combined" can only generate keyboard key strokes and mouse output, so, no axis (which is the thread's question).
I personally use MODE_FILTERED, with this mode you can have all three devices active at the same time (stick, throttle and combined) with all DX outputs and axis available.
We can dump all tips we have, it could be useful but it will be soon overwhelming :D.
Here's one for free: when assigning a key, you can use DX outputs (ex: DX1) instead of keyboard keys (ex: 'm').
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Warthog hardware deadzone yes or not??
in PC Hardware and Related Software
Posted
Don't worry there will be no jump, it might feel like a jump because when in the deadzone it will be 0 then it will suddenly start to increase, but that increase will really start at 0.
I agree hw deadzone seems a bit more accurate than a 1% deadzone in DCS.
Maybe instead of using a deadzone you could try a shallow curve (like 5)?
You can even use deadzone and curve at the same time, the deadzone will make sure your stick stays centered and the curve will make the first increase softer. I suggest you experiment with the axis tune in DCS.
And yes I like it better so far (with hw deadzone disabled) but I need to test it more.