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Koekemoeroetoe

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Everything posted by Koekemoeroetoe

  1. Small update from my side. Tl;dr - disabling Multiplane Overlay may have fixed the issue. See also this link (also applicable to AMD cards): https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5157/~/after-updating-to-nvidia-game-ready-driver-461.09-or-newer%2C-some-desktop-apps Bit longer version: OpenXR runtime was giving me a hard time. Screen tearing, even with stable 90 fps in menus. Weird thing was, left eye was buttery smooth, right eye tearing all over. MR solved this, but causes massive artefacts. Switching to SteamVR as runtime fixed this, so I guess the problem lies in OpenXR. However, SteamVR causes a performance drop and visual fidelity is also degraded. Additionally, Motion Smoothing still is meh. Also still some frame tearing/stutter with all settings high, despite a framerate of 45+. Especially when moving my head. So, OpenXR is preferred as a runtime for more raw performance and better visual fidelity. Switching back to OpenXR, again immediatly screen tearing in mainly right eye. I switch back to the desktop, notice the MPO disable registry shortcut (still had it due to an issue with a different, non-VR game) and suddenly think: the Win 11 install might ofcourse have reset the registry. I run the batch file, load DCS and: all smooth, even without MR. Further testing is needed, but it feels like I'm on to something. Will update this post when I have more news.
  2. Something I must add, I also Arizona Sunshine using SteamVR and this worked flawlessly from the start on. Will test more SteamVR games, but maybe it is a bit of a DCS-only issue I experience. Is it worth reinstalling DCS? Even with a 1 gbit connection that will take quite some time...
  3. Ok, so I did some work on this issue. Good news: I got the headset working "normally" again. Bad news: Motion Reprojection still gives massive artefacts, entirely warped screens and therefore just unplayable. What I did: - Uninstall mixed reality and all apps like openxr toolkit etc. - Uninstal GPU drivers using DDU - Reinstall GPU drivers - Reinstall Mixed Reality (for now without the OpenXR tooliit stuff) - Repair DCS (slow method) - Delete DCS folder in My Saved Games Now the headset at least just works again, but when using the OpenXR runtime something strange happens. In the menu's, my left eye is buttery smooth. My right eye however lags and artefacts massively. When I jump into a plane, when looking forward all is good, but when I move my head the screen also lags and makes it feel very stuttery, despite the FPS being like 85 to 90. Switching on motion reprojection only makes things MUCH worse. I then switched to SteamVR runtime, and this made some massive changes. First of, the menu is now smooth on both eyes. Gameplay in a jet is also more smooth than before, but still a little bit stuttery. Framerate now was 70-ish FPS. Steam Motion Smoothing works better than OpenXR MR, but still artefacts too much for me. So, anyone again any adies how to make the game play smoother? My previous GPU was an RTX 2070, but depsite only getting like 30-35 FPS (and using no motion smoothing), it felt way more smooth than the full 90FPS on my RX 7900 XTX. If for example in the AH-64D and a very heavy mission, the framerate goes to 30 FPS on the XTX, it becomes unplayable, where with the RTX 2070 it was perfectly fine. I know that AMD is not optimal for VR, but this I did not expect and I can not believe it should be this way. Something must be wrong somewhere...
  4. I will try to uninstall the WMR drivers, use DDU to uninstall the GPU drivers and then reinstall both. If that doesn;t work, I'll reinstall DCS fully. I don't fully understand what you mean, should I find these settings in the WMR portal?
  5. Ok, so quicker than I thought I at least got the headset working again. By going into the WMR settings and toggling the refreshrate to 60Hz and back to 90Hz, and also toggling some other options like "best quality" it somehow started working again. Now, problem number 2 is that motion reprojection is just one, big artifact mess... On win 10 it was working perfectly. Is this a known issue, or again some weird stuff in my Windows install?
  6. Hi, I "upgraded" my OS to Windows 11, and now I am not able to play DCS in VR anymore. Worked fine on Win 10. I'm using a Reverb G2, GPU is a RX 7900 XTX. DCS is the Open Beta, stand alone version, using OpenXR. All drivers etc. are up to date. I start up WMR, this works fine and I can use the headset in the WMR environment. I then load DCS load with the headset not on my head. DCS starts, I see the "screen mirror" pop up and it follows movements of the headset perfectly fine. I can also see through the lenses of the Reverb that the image is being projected to the headset. Now, as soon as I put on the headset, the image freezes and DCS minimizes. This can be replicated by placing my finger on the headsets sensor that detects if you wear it or not. If I then activate the DCS tab, it starts working again until I put the headset on my head. I have deleted the DCS.openbeta folder from my saved games, but this did not solve it. I am able to play SteamVR games. I don't have much time to play, let alone figure issues like this out, so before I start deleting and reinstalling all kinds of drivers and software, I was wondering if any of you had the same experiences and know a fix. Hoping someone can help me out, any reply is much appreciated! Thx! Koekie.
  7. Unfortunately, as already expected, for me it looks like DLSS is no good. I think you can only use it to make already high FPS even higher, but since I'm starting with low FPS the overall experience only decreases with DLSS enabled. On my RTX 2070/i9 10850k/64gb RAM and Reverb G2 at 100% resolution, I get about 30-40 FPS. Enabling DLSS quality + DLAA (which is forced on for me) gives the same FPS with less shimmering, but reduced clarity and some ghosting. Less quality in general. Any DLSS performance mode only decreases clarity further and massively increases ghosting, up to the point where MFD's are not readable anymore. Time to upgrade the GPU I guess...
  8. Here I'm also CPU bound (main thread and rendering thread), against expectations. Either my understanding of the term "CPU bound" is incorrect, or something weird is going on. Specs: i9 10850k, 64Gb DDR4 3600MT/s, RTX 2070, HP Reverb G2 and using OpenXR, 90% resolution and MR turned off. I do see a slight improvement over the ST version of DCS though, talking about an increase of 2-5 FPS. Nevertheless the ingame FPS counter states I'm CPU bound, while my GPU is hitting 99-100% usage consistently, which I would say means I'm GPU bound. I've done most of the tweaks and checks suggested here, but I remain CPU bound. Turning up or down all visual settings makes no difference.
  9. Bumping this topic. I have the same problem, and since I basically moved to ground hugging it's becoming slightly annoying. I can't for the life of me figure out which setting is causing this low LOD, even when cranking up all settings to high and having almost a slideshow, the low LOD persists. Mods make no difference, Nvidia settings make no difference. Anyone already figured out how to solve this? System in signature.
  10. Do you have an specific map or mission where you have the performance issues? The Hind indeed is performance heavy compared to other aircraft, but still for me it runs flawlessly and I don't encounter stutters even in multiplayer (max settings on 1920x1080) However, what I did notice is some quick start missions have significant stuttering in them, especially the Persian Gulf Disaster Relief Defense mission. I was using it for benchmarking before, but I thought I went crazy. Although I had 70+ FPS in that mission, there was (and still is) a lot of stuttering, especially when a trigger went off. Even with lowest graphical settings it persisted. So make sure the problem is not with the mission you're playing.
  11. Haha yeah Tunguska is on a whole different level indeed. But regarding Gepards, do you do that with a human gunner or Petrovich? I found I can get a >90% hit rate with Petrovich, as long as you shoot within range and keep the helo insanely stable. Going into a sideway movement, even the slightest, to avoid the Gepard's rounds almost always makes Petro miss the target. At least that's my experience with it so far.
  12. I'm hoping for the one with the most (usable) range so I can perhaps stand a chance against those pesky Gepard SPAAG's. Shturm just hasn't enough range to stay outside of the Gepard's killzone, and coming in low and fast with a rocket run mostly equals both a dead Gepard and dead Koekemoeroetoe...
  13. Yes I did try it, but I didn't like the feel of it because you lose the feel of in which position your pedals are (physical pedals and in-game pedals get desynced obviously). But I'm starting to think if I shouldn't just try to get used to it. I really would like to have a separate "reset rudder trim" command then though...
  14. Thanks for the reactions all. Nice to see everybody has some suggestions for equipment and also most end up using a motorcycle steering damper and remoing a center detent/spring. Different ideas, all leading to a similar solution. Although I agree nothing beats just buying the right equipment for the job is the best solution, sometimes that is just no option due to the (rather high) cost of said equipment. For me right now that's the case, and while I do have the luxury position that I'm actually able to save up money to eventually buy pro equipment, right now I just can't afford it. And keep in mind a lot of people out there won't even be able to save up enough money for luxury goods like this in their entirly life. That's why my initial question basically was, how to "make do" with what I've got right here, right now and make use of the maximum potential of the flight gear (and not discussing that this potential is, of course, way less than the pro-grade equipment). For now I see several "options": - Don't do anything with my pedals, just live with it. If needed learn to use rudder trim. - Void warranty and at least remove center detent and spring. Maybe add steering damper. - Buy pro equipment (not viable for me right now, need to save up money). I don't find your reaction snobbish, actually I share your vision regarding how quality time is premium and may cost premium money. Take for examply my pc, I upgraded it a few months ago after die-hard saving money for more than a 1,5 years and had to postpone the purchase several times due to circumstances. But it was worth every penny, because I get so much joy out of it and finally I can play DCS and other games without having constant crashes, having to fiddle around in settings to even get it running properly etc. while on average only having about 4-5 hours per week of time to game. With my old PC, eventually I ended up 1-1,5 hours per week of just tweaking to keep things running, but I just had to make do because I couldn't upgrade earlier. But that doesn't take away the fact that sometimes the money just isn't there. And actually, I'm already really privileged that I actually already could purchase the Logitech pedals, the PC upgrade and all other stuff I do own. I know people who can't even just buy food...
  15. I still have the need to keep the pedals deflected in many flight regimes though, despite having yaw AP turned on. It only eliminates the need to constantly micro-adjust your pedal position, that's something the AP does for you, but at least in my case I still need to keep the pedals in a general deflected position that matches the current attitude, airspeed etc. If I do center the pedals, either quickly or really slowly, the yaw AP is not able to keep the helo in the heading I want it to fly (while if I keep the pedals deflected it does manage to). I think that also is the way it should work, right? (Note that I don't have rudder trim enabled)
  16. Yeah, the Crosswinds... I'm dreaming of them, but including the hydraulic damping (that IMHO is a must) they'd cost me €400 including taxes and shipping. In comparison, the Logitech pedals have cost me €140, slight difference (and not to forget that I managed to sell my previous CH products pedals + yoke for €120). Of course getting Crosswinds is the ultimate fix, but unfortunately I'm not in the position to "just" spend €400 when also having to maintain a household, a kid, Ms. Koekemoeroetoe, a car for work etc. so I'll have to make do with what I've got right now and maybe save up for something like the Crosswinds eventually.
  17. Thanks for the replies! Removing the spring from the pedals is a no go for now since it voids my warranty (still have one year, would like to keep the pedals original until then). I've specifically bought the Logitech pedals back then because they are relatively wide and were in my price range. I've had CH products pedals before, and although they were very nice in build quality and spring tension, they were so narrow that longer flights were not so pleasant to my manly parts I have the spring tension on the Logitechs set at its lowest already, but it's not low enough for usage in helo's IMHO
  18. Hi all, I'm using spring loaded rudder pedals (Logitech G Flight pedals) but I'm having a bit of a struggle with them in the Hind. I used to fly jets mostly, meaning you can center the pedals 95% of the time. However in the Hind you use pedals all the time, and since the Logitech are spring centered even on the lowest tension setting, keeping them deflected for longer periods of time causes a lot of strain in my legs. Flying longer sorties is no fun that way. In the real MI-24 the damper system of course is made to prevent this, and I've looked into modding the Logitech pedals in a similar fashion, but that would mean A. adding extra components for which I don't have the money and time right now, and B. voiding my warranty. Although it's there for probably exactly this issue, I don't like the rudder trim option because it makes you lose the feeling of in which stance your pedals are (e.g. physical pedals centered, but in-game pedals fully left). I was wondering how other people using spring loaded pedals use them in the Hind (or any helicopter). Anyone willing to share their settings? Or maybe (simple and cheap) mods that don't void the warranty of the pedals? Thanks!
  19. I have this bug happening regularly to me as well I think. In options center joystick trim, no rudder trim. Yaw, roll and pitch AP on. Starting in trimmed, stable flight, I then change attitude and regain stable flight while holding the controls. Once stable (all parameters, so also climb/descent and airspeed), press the trimmer and release the joystick to center (holding pedals in position since no rudder trim). Most of times the airframe keeps stable and the trim works as I expect it to, but there are also many times *something* happens which messes up the trim entirely. It feels as if it sort of doubles the input I tried to trim, so e.g. if I was giving 20% cyclic forward, I trim and center the joystick, the moment the joystick is centered suddenly another 20% forward stick is added. I don't know how to reproduce this, it seems happening randomly, but made me crash already several times when it happend while going in for a landing. Sometimes I can fix it by re-trimming another time, but there also are times only a trim reset and re-trim can "fix" it. If I've not already crashed and burned... Before it's asked: - No, no RBS (happens in any attitude, speed, etc.) - No, no VRS (happens in any attitude, speed, etc.) Stick is a TM Warthog, no extensions and when the bug occurs it's definitly fully centered and most definitely not giving the "over-input" that is happening. I'll see if I can make a .trk when this occurs again. Might as well be a pilot error, but at least I'm glad to read more people are having this issue which makes me think it isn't entirely me who's doing something wrong.
  20. Flew again yesterday, what solved the issue for me is resetting trim directly on mission start (instant action, air start). Regained full rudder authority and control that way and I'm now able to hover and land. Perhaps something in the already applied trim on mission start that's keeping the controls from reaching full deflection to either side (although the control indicator said rudder was pushed to the right fully). Note: I have "rudder trim" unchecked in the options menu.
  21. I thought it was me, good to hear I'm not the only one though. Had an hour or so yesterday to try the Hind, but was not able to hover or take off properly due to this issue. No matter how much right rudder, the Hind kept spinning CCW. Even with pedals fully deflected. Rudder trim activated or deactivated made no difference, and also I had no double binds for the rudder axis. Will try again this evening, if it happens again will see if I can make a video and post a track file.
  22. Oh yeah, if it weren't for the CAD software I would have most definitely gone for a 5600x or similar Intel i5 as well. Way better bang per buck. And for gaming eventually the GPU is the biggest factor in fps and frametimes, maybe with (flight) simulators as the only exclusion (and badly optimized console ports of course).
  23. My original budget was €800, so I'm already a bit over-budget you can say (grand-total I spent now is €1175) The GPU I have now, an RTX 2070, will move to the new system. And I had already ordered a Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M2 SSD as well. So to summarize, my new pc will be: - I9 10850k - Gigabyte Aorus Z490 Elite AC - Noctua NH-U12A - Patriot Memory Viper Steel PVS464G360C8K (64gb kit, 2x32gb) - MSI MPG A750GF PSU - Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M2 NVMe drive - Gigabyte RTX 2070 Windforce - Nexus Prominent R case I think that should be a well above average pc to do some gaming and CAD work on
  24. Hi Thinder, Thanks for your reply. I've ordered the Intel system with 64gb ram. As stated in my previous post, a lot of components are almost not available in the Netherlands, and those that are available are mostly insanely priced. FYI, the ram I ordered now was priced €260, the 32gb G.Skil Trident would cost me €440. Of course it's better, but not €180 better IMHO. That was also one of the reasons not to go for the AMD build, because I just could not find a really good ram kit that suited the CPU for a reasonable price. The G.Skill kit I included in my list was literally the best for that price (€350 in Netherlands), the next best thing would cost €450+. For the Intel build, the ram I chose might still not be ideal, but have checked many benchmarks it might only "cost" me 1 to 5 fps at max when compared to the exact right ram, if one would be able to find any at all at this moment. I went with 64 gigs because it's a bit more future proof and I most probably will use this pc for the next 5+ years AT LEAST, might be even longer (my current pc is 10 years old actually...). I could have gone for 32gb (2x 16), but since almost all ram sets are dual rank (!= dual channel), that means "upgrading" to 4x 16gb at a later point is not a really good option. 2x32 dual rank should perform better than 4x 16gb dual rank according to benchmarks. But again though, we're talking in 1-3 fps differences. 4x single rank is available, but again priced at €400+. Regarding the GPU, I'd like to buy a RTX 3080, but at this moment the MSRP is €719, but actual prices they sell for is at least €1000. So I won't buy one yet. I did take an RTX3080 in account though when searching for a PSU, so I can upgrade whenever they (or something comparable) become available for normal prices, without then also having to upgrade my PSU again (in the first component lists I created I had 550W and 650W PSU's).
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