Namco51

Hi Tuuvas, thanks for the hard work doing this. Getting a kick out of the idea of flying with just a controller. I was mapping Viper controls using the mapping image from your imgur post and it did zoom using scroll wheel and turbo, which would work everywhere outside of cursor mode, and in this post it just says zoom view, so I assume it's using zoom slow. Why the change? I tried zoom slow first and didn't like how it behaved, then when trying to map scroll wheel, I couldn't figure out how to assign a shifted button state on the triggers using LB, so I gave up. (Actually controller went to sleep and the whole config was lost). Which do you think works better?

No, I don't have any layouts to share, it is a bit beyond me lol. I'll check out the discord, would love to get some more layouts! How do I get to a Discord invite? Thanks

Hello, This post is for future me who may want to figure this out again later, and/or someone as clueless as me. This install got a little confusing for me as a complete novice to dcs-bios and export.lua, and I just wanted to document the revelations I came across and what worked for me. It was really a LOT simpler than I thought. No disrespect to Moridar and his great work here. I love the end result, I just wasn't understanding and wanted to document it, so here goes: ********************************************************************************************** For anybody reading this who isn't already a dcs-bios/export.lua expert and couldn't get it working, let me explain it in simpler terms that may save you hours of time. The version of DCS-BIOS you want for this install is a fork of the main project called DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios, NOT dcs-bios/dcs-bios, which, if you DO get it working, will recieve updates from dcs.exe, but will not send button presses. Link to the version you want is here: https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios/releases. You want to download the DCS-BIOS_0.7.43a.zip file. You do not want the v0.10.0 DCS-BIOS hub one. That one is not compatible with this. So you download and extract BIOS_0.7.43a.zip, it's just a folder called DCS-BIOS and a really basic one-line Explort.lua. Extract them to your C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts folder (or DCS\Scripts depending on which version of DCS you're working with. If you already have an export.lua there for something else, just add that one line to it. I spent a lot of time with the main project dcs-bios hub v0.10.0 version because I thought I should get that working first, but it would NOT see my DCS World install. It requires you to have installed DCS World using the Eagle Dynamics installer, not from having moved your install or hard drive over from anohter PC like I did. I think it also expects your DCS and Saved Games folders to be in their default locations too. That was a waste of time since the Flightpanels dcs-bios doesn't have the dcs-bios hub that was driving me nuts. Anyway, the gist of dcs-bios is, when dcs.exe (DCS World or DCS Open Beta) runs, it looks in your C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts or C:\Users\YOURNAME\Saved Games\DCS\Scripts folder (depending on which one you launched) for the export.lua and runs that, it's painfully simple. The dcs-bios hub that comes with v0.10.0 just complicates things. With the dcs-bios part taken care of, there are 2 other components. TouchDCS and TouchOSC. The TouchDCS archive is just an exe and a folder with a couple layout files in it. The layout files are used with TouchOSC later. Extract TouchDCS literally anywhere (I stuck mine in my Eagle Dynamics program folder) and run the TouchDCSConsole.exe. Put the layouts folder on the PC you're going to run TouchOSC on, in my case a Microsoft Surface. When TouchDCS runs for the first time, it creates a config file in-place. Open that config file and edit it with the IP address of your device (Surface). Take note of the sending and recieving ports, 8000 & 9000. Over on the Microsoft Surface, TouchOCS is some kind of app for making buttons and faders and labels to control recording studio stuff and has its own installer. TouchDCS just intercepts DCS-BIOS's stuff outgoing on port 7778, then it takes that and talks to TouchOCS which is sending on port 8000/listening on port 9000. Install and launch TouchOCS. When it loads you have to File > Open one of the layouts that came with the TouchDCS archive. Hope you copied those folders to this device! Once the panel is loaded up in TouchOSC, click that little chain link button and then the "OSC" tab and configure it with the host info and ports that DCS World will be running on. The sending and recieving ports in TouchOSC will be opposite of the values in TouchDCS. It listens on 8000, sends on 9000. With all of that done, your workflow is to: 1) Launch TouchDCS from wherever you extracted it to on your main PC. 2) Launch TouchOSC on your secondary tablet PC, click File > Open > then select your layout file, like Hornet UFC.tosc, then click the little "play" button. F11 makes it fullscreen. 3) Launch DCS World and get in your aircraft and play with the cool dials and buttons on the tablet and watch them move in the sim and vice versa. It should all work, no messing with dcs-bios hub, dcs.exe takes care of talking to port 7778 and TouchDCS takes care of hearing that and talking to TouchDCS and back and forth . If you have dcs-bios hub in your system tray, you're doing it wrong, you don't want that for this. Anyway, good talk.

So this explains it. Was flying from Havadarya, over water the whole time, babying the engine, temps in the green, torque within tolerances, with Engine Break turned off in Special settings, and with air temp set to 25C. I didn't take the sand filter to save weight because I didn't think I needed it, you know, with Engine Break turned off and not flying over desert and everything. Thought I was going insane.

Hi Debolestis, I am in the middle of mounting my CH Fighterstick handle on my MS FFB2 shaft. I was looking for an adapter so I don't have to cut both of the joystick shafts. Does the Combat Stick have the same mounting shaft as the fighter stick? The Fighter stick shaft is 40mm tall, 12.75mm in diameter, has a divot in the shaft 27mm from the top, and has two little 2.5mm wings on it. I thought your FFB2 to Combat Stick was going to be perfect for this, but I see that it is rather tall. Is there any chance you have 1) a version that is much shorter (as short as possible (80mm)? and 2) a version that has the FFB2 spring retainer foot modeled into the base (not a huge requirement, but it would be nice to have this mechanical resistance to torque) like the Sopwith stick has: https://imgur.com/a/RnQQbAA . It also needs to be hollow so I can feed a 4mm cable through it down to the FFB2 base I guess I just need a version of your FFB2 to Combat Stick adapter where the FFB2 part of the shaft is 30mm instead of 120mm (given the Combat Stick shaft is the same as the Fighter Stick). Can you do that? EDIT: Whipped one up in Fusion 360. Was easier than I thought it would be. Going to bug a buddy of mine to print it. My new year's resolution is to buy a 3D printer, they're so cool!

Too bad I didn't find one of the hundred posts when I read through about 65 pages of posts in the two VR threads. There may have been 100 mentions of "the debug tool" in those threads, but not one single explanation of what that was or where to download it (and I searched). Anyway I figured it out and it wouldn't hurt in the weeks before the VR tab is added to the options menu to sticky a thread telling people to go to the Oculus website and download the Oculus SDK which contains the Oculus Debug Tool which has the Pixel Density setting in it. Not even Wags in his video mentioned where to get the damn thing! /Rant over

What is the debug tool? I'd like to adjust pixel density but I don't have a VR tab in my build. I have a CV1 and am running 2.0.2.52608. What am I missing? EDIT: Nevermind, I figured it out eventually. It's the Oculus Debug Tool https://developer.oculus.com/documentation/pcsdk/latest/concepts/dg-debug-tool/

LEDs don't use resistance to lower the lighting output, but rather they use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) which basically is just turning the LED on and off so rapidly that they just appear dimmer. It's not as simple as just adding a potentiometer unless that pot is connected to the analog input of an arduino or other circuit that decides how quickly to blink the LEDs. Easiest course of action: use the TARGET software to do it. Coolest and most difficult: keep the lights turned all the way up in TARGET and add an internal circuit and a knob to your warthog throttle that will blink the LEDs according to the position of the knob.

I think you're on the right track. Like you I used an Ikea chair. I built this mount out of MDF to hold the joystick onto the chair: I just used 1" wood screws to hold the mount securely onto the bottom of the seat. No need to ruin the upholstery of the chair. Unfortunately this looks like it won't work for you because of the tension knob at the bottom. Also, my Ikea chair has four bolts on the sides that hold the backrest to the chair which I used to mount a panel box on the left side. I got some slightly longer ones at the hardware store, they're a standard imperial size if I recall correctly. It was pretty easy to do, just build a box that's 6.1" wide (the throttle is .1" wider at the bottom than the top) and use the removed armrest as a template to drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Mine is pretty sturdy because there's 4 bolts total (2 on the side of the seat, 2 on the side of the backrest). They hold the backrest very securely and don't feel like they're going to break or anything. The stick is very comfortable and natural feeling where it is, it's just a little hard to remove. At first I would remove the stick from the base, but lately I've been unscrewing it and taking it off between flying sessions. Sometimes I just leave it attached and lower the seat and just stand up to clear the stick. I have a couple pieces of MDF screwed in under the seat as runners to guide and hold the mount in place so I screw it in using the same holes every time.

Everyone who tries one is absolutely blown away by the thing, even the hardest of skeptics.

I wasted a lot of time and money on freetrack. My freetrack setup was laggy, the hat/LEDs were messy to deal with because of the battery pack and the fact that after a couple hours the LEDs would dim and I would have to re-adjust the gain settings in Freetrack, and I could never quite get the settings in Freetrack to where it felt natural. With TrackIR, it is 3 times smoother, has much less delay betweeen the time I move my head and when the camera reacts (.1 seconds instead of .75 seconds with freetrack), and the default TrackIR settings were almost perfect (I just had to increase the pitch speed to help me see the radios better). Sure it is pricey but will be cheaper if you spend so much time trying to get freetrack to work for you and it doesn't work out.

Keep in mind that the modifers panel has a Modifiers side and a Switches side. It sounds like you put your paddle on the Switches side. Delete it and add it to the left, Modifiers side.

The toggle switch is a 3 pole, single throw toggle switch meaning it has 3 positions and switches between two pins at a time (it connects the middle ground pin with either the top pin, the bottom pin, or nothing in the middle position). Sometimes they're called ON-OFF-ON toggle switches. Therefore there is no "button" that registers when that switch hits the middle position. By default the forward position is Joystick button 13 and the back position is Joystick button 14. To get the middle position to register as "Nav Lights Off" in the sim, you have to make a minor edit to the C:\Users\Taproot\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\UH-1H\joystick\Throttle - HOTAS Warthog {xxx}.lua file. The change you have to make is to buttons 13 and 14. You're basically telling the sim that when the button for steady nav lights is released, issue the command to turn the lights off. Same with the button for flashing nav lights. Open the lua file in notepad++ and edit the line {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN14"}, }, down = 3002, cockpit_device_id = 7, value_down = -1, name = "Nav Lights Flash", category = "Ins Overhead panel"}, to read: {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN14"}, }, down = 3002, up = 3002, cockpit_device_id = 7, value_down = -1, value_up = 0, name = "Nav Lights Flash", category = "Ins Overhead panel"}, You're basically programming that toggle to stay on all the time to keep the light on (value=-1), but when you release the button (move the toggle to middle) turn the light off (value=0). I actually have no button set to Nav Lights Off, but through this Lua change, the command to turn Nav Lights Off is triggered when I turn off that light. Do the same with JOY_BTN13 and you're all set. One thing to notice is that in your options screen you will have two entries for "Nav Lights Flash". One is coming in off your C:\Users\Taproot\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\UH-1H\joystick\Throttle - HOTAS Warthog {xxx}.lua file and the other is coming in off your C:\Program Files\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World\Config\Input\Aircrafts\Default\joystick\default.lua file. The reason for this is because they do slightly different things now so the sim thinks they're two different functions. Personally I don't use the TARGET software because I can do everything in the options screen or the LUA file directly, but using a TARGET script will not hurt anything. When you run a TARGET script it ties together your throttle + joystick into one integrated device that the sim thinks is a new device with a new blank set of keybinds. So you can do both, no problem, but running it will make it harder to jump in and out of different aircraft in multiplayer that's for sure.

http://i.imgur.com/1tEjVVq.jpg

Count me in at $120 - $150 for an aluminum. Kickstarter, anyone? :P