agrasyuk

SOCAT is the utility that presents the COM port your master board is on to the DCS-BIOS plugin. How are you connecting your devices without it? Are you using the old HUB version?

I didn't do any new devices recently but when I was debugging my pit I do not remember constantly restarting DCS. I was restarting the SOCAT though

I'd say OLED is the go to. Make sure you build your device with maintenance and replacements in mind because in my experience these OLED screens will burn in and loose brightness quite a bit. If budget is not an issue and you are willing to put work into more complicated device you can go for the original led matrix displays. If you can pull it off you will really like the end result. https://media.fotki.com/2v2aByj2rxUHnUD.jpg

What kind of sketches are you writing? If it is purely HID , then I'd say unplug, replug the device and then scan for new devices in the input binding menu. If you are making DCS-BIOS sketches I think restarting the mission will be sufficient.

Thrustmaster makes ok equipment. Their base was a very good product for the time, way ahead of Logitech and saitek. It is still a good base today, but we do have virpil/vkb that are simply superb. For grip thrustmaster is still unsurpassed, still pretty much the only choice for 1:1 warthog/viper and hornet/eagle - nice metal grip with a solid feel. I am feeling tempted to try the winwing F16+ext grip, could use those extra buttons . Virpil and vkb grips are still very usable, but to me they felt like a baby rattle after the TM stuff. I did try older models, so maybe things improved with the latest offerings. That said virpil Apachie collective feels like standard plastic-fantastic to me (not sure why I chose to preorder one). My 0.02 worth. Good luck

it is a good price if you ask me. I think this forum is a very narrow platform though: at the time of writing the thread got under 250 views, and that includes all the times you looked at it as well. also, no pictures... you are a veteran here so I don't doubt you have possession of the actual item. but in many forums pictures are mandatory when listing to confirm exactly that. when all fails you can eBay (yes, the fees suck...) I see an auction for 16EX shaker there, will give you an idea of price when it ends in 3 days, https://www.ebay.com/itm/266710547578?itmmeta=01HRSGWWYQQSN1WVHB369Y2589 (he also listed a throttle) I was playing with the idea of getting WW joystick with the 16EX grip. let me know if you are considering selling just the joy separately. I don't mean to squeeze you during hurting times but i just don't have a need for another throttle, I already have a spare sitting on shelf for few years now...

probably not much help, but my DCSBIOS-based SAS panel and the Yaw trim are working with the exact line of code you used. Or at least it was working before the latest patch, I didn't try it with the most recent open beta version yet. so i'd say keep troubleshooting, I assume you did replace the PIN in your code to the actual analog input .

BBI64 is a simple button controller. I wouldn't tap it for power. I'd say use a separate power supply (old cellphone charger , etc. ).

@Bucic Do you want this?

Hi Bucic, Sent you an email

I recommend not going below the K40, maybe get a bigger unit if your budget allows. You will waste less material this way. Also I would recommend looking into air exhaust and scrubbing. Lasers produce noxious gas when working, you will need a good way to deal with it to not endanger your health.

dang...

I tried airbrush metalizer, perhaps it was a skill gap but it didn't work for me. The screen paint formula I used is in the link

External HUD will still use the output as it's viewport. Meaning if you dim it in game it will get dimmer on viewport. The proper way would be configuring the HUD device lua file to not render in game and only export. "view purposes " is the line somewhere in there.

While false advertising is indeed an infuriating phenomenon, I was referring to the fact we now have viable mass consumption electronic devices at an unprecedented low prices thanks to temu-slavery. and that might have set expectations that a simple button box cannot be much more expensive than something much more elaborate, like a BT headset that is at your door at 7$ shipped. supply-demand, it's a law of nature. nothing is ever up with it, it's just there. always. people want to buy low and sell high.

I think that the ocean of AliExpress/temu cheap Chinese junk distorted your perspective. I still have the engraver that I built my cockpit with and made some custom button boxes in the past. Projects were mostly under 200$. After all said and done as much as I spent on time and materials I would have made MUCH more if I did take a part time job in MacDonalds or driving Uber. Its your money, if you don't want to buy don't buy. But if you asking me to build you a custom button box that you can't get ANYWHERE else don't expect me to work for pennies. ADD: if you think the prices are too high, maybe you should join manufacturing these and show us how to make them on the cheap?

really cool. do you already know which paint you will be using for the screen ?

The encoders are mounted to the bezel with their mounting nut (I think it's visible). bezels have recesses to hold the encoders and channels to route the wires. The bezels are bolted to a carrier plate (clear 1/4 acrylic sheet) that covers the monitor. Or am I misunderstanding the question?

I use the ordinary cheap chinese decoders. the profile is low enough to house them in a instrument bezel

and this is available again... reduced

Work never ends, yes. Batch Com port initialization: SOCAT has the multi com port batch file, just write in the numbers of your ports. Literally a minute time to do. Switch sync on startup. I tried this and it caused more problems that it's worth. Was troubleshooting issue with HUD that wouldn't show. Took ages and a lot of frustration until I realized the AHCP day/night switch was causing it. For now I just set switches back after every flight (I don't usually do full proper shutdown) OLED artifact display issue sounds like communication issue. The same that is causing jittery analog gauges. good luck. You will get there

Good that you resolved it. I'm going to drop a suggestion to manage both Export.lua and the Monitors.lua files manually . I do let Helios to do whatever changes it wants to the monitors settings file it thinks I'm using, and then I drop the changes into the file I'm actually using.

That's a interesting looking monitor but would be reluctant to switch,( for which my wallet is very thankful!!) I really like the double wide screens, but for my workstation that is not dedicated to just gaming I like milder curve. Maybe it's a matter of getting used to. I've been using Dell U4919DW for few years now, love it for "productivity", general use and ease of connecting both my own PC and work Laptop. But It's doing reasonably ok for games as well, even if not as curved and not as fast.

In perfect working order. Amplifier: bka-130-c. Transducer: mini concert. Original package with l All the cords. 140$ shipped within US I also have DZUS rail-mountable remote

@lesthegrngo It sounds like you need to edit the main panel png (II_Main_panel_16-10.png or the II_Main_panel_16-9.png) file and resize the ADI and HSI devices a bit let me know if you need help with that