antzti

Using TrackIR in 1:1 mode is not gonna work since turning your head over 90 degrees makes the camera lose its sight on your IR-led's (or reflectors). Of course this depends on how your clip is set up but anyway looking behind would be impossible. Edit: Hmmm... how about using something like EDTracker for XYZ?

HOTAS profiles by Polaris & Schnix seems to cover almost everything, but I'm afraid Harrier isn't on the list. I personally like them due the fact it's easy to transition between planes without trying to memorize every button's behavior all over again. http://https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=138953 Download link

I believe they are using this: http://https://github.com/mdjarv/JoystickVisualizer

This one does the trick without any registry hacks: Thrustmaster Support Direct download link: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/Unified_Drivers/2016_FFD_1.exe

I stole something from my old Logitech gamepad: Now I'm waiting for an Arduino board and a pre-soldered thumbstick board / module... also trying to figure out how to make a Saitek X-55 -like scroll wheel to the left handle. :helpsmilie:

Looks something I'd be happy to velcro on the side of my headphones... the less cables the better. When do you start taking orders? :music_whistling:

I don't agree with the ergonomics part. I'm currently using Warthog but X55 / X65f throttle (I've had both) is far more comfortable and buttons are placed in a more "reachable" way. BTW the throttles are actually smaller compared to Warthog. (Warthog is designed to be used with gloves in a "slightly" different environment so there's a reason for the more spacious button layout I guess.) Where X-55 really can't compete is the stick, Warthog's is much more enjoyable what comes to centering and smoothness. Also the button layout and build quality is much better in Warthog. IMO, Ideal setup from all three of those would be Warthog stick, X65 throttle handles and X-55 or Warthog throttle base.. :lol:

Unchecking "Force Feedback" worked for me.

BTW Where are UltraMFCD settings stored? After removing its folder and unzipping again it still remembers my previous settings... even from previous versions. I'm thinking there might be some files from previous versions breaking things up?

I gave it a quick go, it seems to working great as long as I have TGP in "A-G" or "A-A" -mode. If TGP is not running (or I have TGP + MAV active), UltraMFCD screens return to their original positions, and the ones I "created" freeze. Doesn't matter if I had the screens on 2nd monitor or main, same behaviour. Gfycat might explain better: https://gfycat.com/FickleUniqueFlatfish

M36 x 2.0

You might wanna give the throttle some lubricant or it does look like this after 5 years: :megalol: (Well I bought it used less than year ago, still works like a charm tho.)

Does it come with winter tires so I can ride it here in Finland? Merry Xmas to everyone!

BUMP. This little piece of information should be mentioned somewhere e.g. Thrustmaster website... I was ready to start ripping my "new" (used) throttle apart, luckily I found this post. :thumbup: If I remember right even Ralfidude seemed to have this problem when I was watching one of his videos.

This^^ Also you might have purchased a Steam (Gift?) Key, but instead of redeeming it through Steam you installed the module from DCS website. In that case you wouldn't have any information about the purchase except from the seller itself.

Try this: Now you only need Saitek's program for configuring the mouse nipple as slew (and bands for rotaries if you want em).

Thanks, I guess now I know who'll charge my Paypal soonish. They've done great job with the program, tried Opentrack for a while but I just couldn't get it to work the way I wanted.

This part caught my ear, is that a public version? I couldn't find any download links, every post / info about it always ended up here: http://sourceforge.net/projects/facetracknoir/files/.

I disabled all radio help / easy communication stuff and managed to contact JTAC finally. (After destroying Strela, that was meant to be the trigger?)

Sorry, thats not what I mean't. I have used the mode selector knob as buttons before, but now I wanted some more buttons to play with = less clicking in the cockpit. So currently I'm using all the three modes for 3-times more buttons. You can't achieve that without the poor Saitek HUD program. :( Edit: Wait what?!? Now I read your post again. So using your method I would only need my HUD program for binding keyboard commands to rotaries, holy sh*t. Thanks! :)

Yeah thats what I did for Mode 1 . You still need keyboard binds for mode 2 and 3 (If you wan't to use them). Also rotaries needs keyboard commands. But if you set all this right you won't have any problems either and you'll have almost 3 times more buttons to play with.

I have tried the Op. Hammerfall Part 3 couple times now, but still haven't accomplished "triggering" JTAC. I have my radio set at 30 MHz FM and I have followed the given waypoints. I even tried bursting with my 30mm right next to him. :lol: I guess I need to reinstall my game since I had some problems with hearing the radios on earlier missions. I removed all the mods before this mission and used DCS Repair tool after that. :( Edit: Oh, btw great campaign so far!

As GurbY said you need to set them as bands: BTW make sure you use the "New advanced command" for axis keybinds, otherwise you will have buttons being pressed down all the time and most likely your profile will not work. (You will notice my airbrake is set "the wrong way". If you wan't that make sure there is a deadzone.)

What infernus said before. You either have loaded the profiles to a wrong controller (e.g. stick profile for throttle) or you haven't selected the correct aircraft when loading the profiles. Hover your mouse over "Saitek Pro Flight" categories and it shows their full name, throttle or stick in the end. Also you might want to check that you haven't saved default profiles on them by an accident.