The LT

Winwing will soon release an F-16 hotas. Frankly, I don't expect that hegykc guy to release anything to the public, ever. Winwing already has prototype photos on their channel on hotas/hosas/simpit discord.

I know a couple of cheaters personally. I assure you, the IC changes didn't affect them. It just affected legitimate cockpit builders and regular people quality of life in DCS. Unbelievable... smh.

It does NOT need proprietary drivers. Its a generic HID device.

Temps were fine even on air, I now run a EK 3090FE fullcover waterblock, but for some bizarre reason FPS is more consistent and fluid with an undervolted card. There is almost zero reason to go with big core/mem clocks in DCS. Undervolting, while reducing max fps by a couple of frames, significantly reduces the min/max fps delta and makes no-repro annoying things like ground jitter much less apparent. YMMV, of course. Many people prefer reprojection.

Normal FOV, 100% SS, PD 1.0, fsr about 0.68 iirc. Gets me to 75 fps on most non-complex missions like duels and instant actions. MP is another story, but I get high 60s most of the time. I hate reprojection with a passion though. DCS settings are medium/high, as is usual with VR, pretty standard. 3090 is undervolted and capped to 1840 on the core freq. CPU is at 4.8.

I tuned it via fholger FSR plugin, getting about 75fps on a 10900 and 3090

I had the G2, then switched to 8KX as I found the FOV advantage to be very important to prop flying

Still on TrackIR, but heard good things about Tobii.

Let us know when you've built yours. I don't own cubesims.

Firmware is the same for me, yeah, brightness values are different for panels and for the base, manufacturing tolerances I guess. Not sure what is at fault. Maybe force another fw update of the base?

What I mean is it has a separate control page in simapp pro. What is your firmware version?

I'd say it's a cable issue

Throttle is a separate device, you should distinguish it from startup panel.

Is this some kind of a joke? First you ask for a displaylink board, then ignore it and proceed with posting HDMI dongles? :) Did I hear cable clutter? why do you need his part numbers so much? What's wrong with using pd165 board with a claa display https://m.aliexpress.ru/i/33000442028.html Pretty sure he is using that. You say you are a DIYer? Don't blindly copy his work. Here are my diy mfds. Claa screens + th2go. No cable mess.

No wonder you haven't built anything. You should pay more attention to those who have and read more carefully. I have provided you a link to the displaylink board which uses a single USB lead. Build whatever you feel like, man. That would work just fine. You can even use something less powerful.

Was fun to read your blurt. Now, maybe redact the message to avoid further embarrasment?

Why is the faceplate glossy?

Oh, wow. Weird. Hope they consider fixing it

Try selecting it manually instead of moving it, it is called slider.

Matrox TripleHead2Go DP Edition. Thank me later.

Cool. Which is the way it should be, given the price. The guy above is probably looking for something like this. https://m.aliexpress.ru/i/33000442028.html

Wire bulk is minimized by using an enclosure with integrated USB hub, centralized 12V power and a single triplehead2go without enclosure. It basically gives you a single USB, single 12V/5V power and single DP lead, 3xMFDs are seen as one wide display on the PC. Which is way less cable clutter and much cheaper than 3x cubesim mfds. Which are basically the same diy enclosures. It's not hard to find a suitable LCD, most enclosure STLs you'll find online utilize CLAA070MA0ACW ttl level lcd display which is dirt cheap. You're not looking in the wrong place, you're just bent on it being "USB" for some reason. As I said, cable clutter won't be minimized. You'll still be running 6xUSB+3x DC power, some of those usb boards don't like hubs, keep that in mind when planning your port budget.

Looking for what exactly? There are literally tons of USB driver boards for lvds/edp displays all over aliexpress & ebay. What "info" do you need? Also, the "proper" way to run those MFDs with absolutely minimal performance overhead and latency is to drive them via native HDMI/DP either via a Matrox TH2go or an additional GPU. Cheaper too. "USB doing everything" is not good in this particular case.

Deselect full screen or just alt-enter twice when on the main menu.

Nothing unique about his build, all the instructions to build your own are on the web, including part numbers. The backlights require 12V. You could go with a dc-dc step up but what for? They are usually hard mounted. When running off a GPU via HDMI (whivh is the way to go to avoid usb bus saturation) I just run a Matrox TripleHead2Go DP edition. I run a 12V power-bus from the PC PSU and a cannibalized powered USB hub for a 3 screen assembly which I built into. The main cabling is just 2 wires, power via an aviation plug and a single USB lead. TH2Go is mounted on the backside and is usb powered.