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Devon Custard

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  1. Gonna cannibalise an old PC psu and run 12v rails down the side of the cockpit and just attach connectors.
  2. CDU updates, been slow last week or slow. Crown came off my tooth and ive been kinda stressing over the minor fortune the implant is going to cost me. grrr. Anyway back into garage and have been working on the buttons/membrane and the screen fascias. Oh and testing the backlighting. Oh yeah buying a new car as well.....damn this year is becoming very expensive....
  3. Ahh kinda missing what i was after. I wanted the MAX7219 not the led array. As it is im gonna have a bunch of arrays sitting around doing nothing.....
  4. After my venture into lighting LEDs with 595 and 4511 chips i eventually migrated MAX7219. Tried sourcing them cheap in the UK and failed, then this weekend i tried a different tack. Found this on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/MAX7219-matrix-control-Display-Arduino/dp/B00LSG54O2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410164606&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=max7219 The chip itself (at 1/3rd price i was finding at RS), the two capacitors, a matrix display (will find something to use it for), headers and a neat little PCB with all the pinouts neatly labelled and organised for me. AWESOME. Gonna make the caution panel a shitload easier to assemble and for a lot less.
  5. Woooop wooop time to start the laser vs cnc debate!!!! Women and children to the lifeboats please :helpsmilie::music_whistling::doh:
  6. Ive got some rustoleum and that was absolute crap. @Mr Burns - ive got some spare white acrylic scraps , probably will run a spare set of of buttons this weekend. Want em?
  7. Also, the reason i redid the CDU and used WAXIs plans is that i needed to make the buttons bigger. The font size i was working with just impractical to engrave with. I worked out the minimum space i could cut acrylic with (about 2mm between cuts gives me 1mm of actually acrylic). I just couldnt cut letters that were readable so i had to make them bigger. Sounds like you have the same issue., maybe go a touch larger? Stick fonts might be a better solution for CNC as well. I was looking at going the stick font route until i finally got things to work
  8. I know your pain, took me ages to sort it out, and in the end the biggest issue was the type of paint. At present my process is this. 3mm thick Acrylic sheet - semi opaque white. Cant see through it but if you use the LED strips (the 5050 type i.e the ones on that come on the reel) it shows through fine. I then airbrush acrylic paint over the top. I apply as many coats as it takes for the backlight strip not to show through the paint . This is always going to differ depending on how you paint, the type of paint etc. I use an air gun thats more suitable for laying down paint over larger areas - for the speed. I then use my laser to engrave through paint and about 1mm into the acrylic. Then i cut. The problem with other paints is that my laser scorches the paint around the area im cutting. I tried using masks but still had problems with scorched paint. I found for my particular laser that reducing the scan gap to .025 mm, uni directional engraving (it only cuts moving top to bottom - doubles the time but smoother more accurate cut) and turning the blower off - i think this stops the superheated air at the engraving point being forced over a wider area. I also reduce the speed that the laser moves at. It took me a good few months of trial and error and various different types of materials. My only concern with using a dremel is that i know the spindle/collet doesnt hold bits very securely. The vibrations loosen the collet and so the bit wobbles and hence your accuracy decreases as the cutting head wobbles. I have the same issue with the laser, too fast and the chassis starts to shake and the beam is striking with ever decreasing accuracy. Again this is all about the equipment and materials you work with. I started another thread about engraving and there were some seriously detailed discussions in there about CNC engraving., have a scan over it, might give you what you are looking for.
  9. Thanks hog, always nice to have good feedback. I found a 3.5 inch display at lcdstore.de VGA connector so will hook direct to PC. As for the grounds I group them into banks of 16 and just link the one half of the tactile. Pins 1 and 2, and pins 3 and 4 are linked so I can easily ground them. Tempted to ditch the brydling in favour of a custom arduino now.....
  10. What did you use for the gauges? Of all the things in the cockpit, its the gauges im nervous about
  11. Yup. i have to, theres not really enough space with WAXIs plans to use the "shoulder" method, well not without a lot of precise shaping of the shoulders and i really dont want to sand and shape that many buttons when i can simply glue onto the transparency. Im loving these LED strips. Cant remember who suggested them (Warhog?) but they are really superb, so easy and prepackaged with resistors. When i think of my first efforts at building this and the pain in soldering that many connections *shudder*.
  12. CDU progress Buttons, lovely buttons Assembling base plate and top face. Sanded, and first coat of paint Annnnd, testing the backlighting
  13. So am i, ive been fiddling with it for months and just need to finish it!!! Im starting to think about building the frame now, well the sides at least.With all the talk about measurements and precision ill probably use y2kiahs plans as his shows the panel outlines.
  14. PMSL. I actually got an agreement with the builder we bought the house from that he would cut a vent hole in the wall for me. Right now the lasers by the door and i just run the hose outside. But yeah it does doesnt it :) Half tempted to drywall it and slap paint on it. maybe when the pit gets close to finishing, will need to dismantle some of the workbenches anyway.
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