Evader

I got to the point where my phone alerted me to my Bank CC charge....But it never gave me an order number at the Virpil website. Just the spinning little "F... You" icon! End result was my bank calling me 3 hours later telling me my card was deactivated due to fraud. Virpil web ordering Sucks Ass!!

Try running the OC (Overclock Scan in the upper left of MSI Afterburner. I just now replaced my MSI 1080 Sea Hawk with a MSI 2080Ti Sea Hawk, both water cooled. My FPS may not seem very high but I run high settings and resolution of 3440x2040, I have two Lillputs for MFD's, main monitor is 3440x1440. Happy with a 50% increase! Frames Time ms Min Max Avg FPS 3045, 120000, 18, 34, 25.375 MSI 1080 4542, 120000, 17, 47, 37.850 MSI 2080Ti

Got a Left and a Right Premium ..Seen the email on my phone and stopped immediately what I was doing. Was in a panic as I had couldn't remember my damn password and had to reset before I could order. Out of stock in minutes.....crazy

So I have an MCG pro, really like it. Hate the HAT switch profile shapes. My thumb slides off, and I just found it much easier to activate a HAT on my Warthog. Has anybody modified the HAT profiles on the VKB's? I don't have a 3D Printer (on my wish list, waiting on Snapmaker 2) and not sure how they would turn out, the resolution might not be fine enough to make such a small part. I cannot be the only one that would rather have more pronounced profiles. Come on VKB......offer some alternatives.....Please. Anyway just made one up on solidworks quick to get an idea.

I would buy every WWII Pacific theater plane and Map. Nothing touches WWII in the Pacific for Carrier Ops. Of course I grew up watching Black Sheep Squadron (VMF-214), so the Powerful F4U Corsair has always been a favorite!

Here is a test of just two of the MFD's (A-10) and as I suspected the viewing angle is not perfect, find myself moving my head left/right to get full view of the MFD screens. So, a Change to the Change, had to get the CAD out to get good dimensions. I angled the left and right MFDs a total of 14 degrees to give a better view of the MFD's without moving my head. It will be 3x the work with all the pieces. Instead of a front and back panel, I'll have six pieces all cut at 7 degrees of angle. Quality Festool Tracksaw and Miter saw make that easier. Might as well do it right if you do it at all.

So, decided to modify the shape of the panel as eventually I plan to get a MonsterTech pit and thought I might need some leg room. So I cut out the dead space. Also will mount the Buddy-Fox UFC on top when that comes in. My next thought is do I want all these USB cables running out of this or should I mount the USB hubs inside the panel. Inside the panel is my choice, easy to take apart the Plugable USB hubs and just mount the PCB inside allowing better cooling. Also ordered a couple of small USB fans for cooling as this will be completely enclosed. Shown is my method of securing the Lilliput LCD panels. I glued 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick MDF strips around the LCD panel to hold in place. Then secured 3/4" wide corners with screws. Easily removed if I need to replace a panel.

Thanks Gotwake for the insert idea. Years ago when I first got these Lilliput USB monitors, the Display Link Drivers sucked! Now I use Windows 10 and they are plug and play, no problems. The power and data come over one USB cable. So no worry about Display ports on your video card. The first link in my first post goes to Amazon to the Lilliput's. I just received my 3rd one today for the 3rd F-18 MFD. The Plugable powered USB hubs (second link, first post) provide plenty of power for multiple monitors and all the other flight gear we all use (I have 3 of these). I just ordered a Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC, so I have another piece of gear! Just mounted the center touch screen and inserted the TM MFD's to get a better idea of layout.

Here is a couple of pics with the front side panel cutout for MFD's and Touch panel. Waiting for paint to dry before I continue. The Thrustmaster MFDs are mounted so they are flush with the MDF on the backside. The Lilliput's will then be placed and secured over the MFD's. I have glued on a 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide strip on one MFD. I will place these strips around the LCD panels to hold them in place. 1/4" MDF is also the exact thickness of the Lilliput LCD panels. More pics to come. To mount the touch panel bezel, I carefully drilled out the mouting holes with 3/32" bit and self tapped 4-40 SHCS to secure to the MDF front panel. I'll have to secure the LCD panel itself with more 1/4" MDF strips, details later on that.

I've been using a pair of Thrustmaster MFD's attached to Lilliput UM-80/C USB monitors with velcro for A-10 for years. I wanted to add a 3rd MFD for F-18, but the arrangement was getting out of hand. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LS95SG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I decided to use 1/2" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) and make a panel 26"Wx14.25"H to mount 4 Lilliput monitors. I also had a 8" UM-80/C/T that my plan was to view Airfield maps using TouchBuddy. Haven't ever perfected that plan yet....someday. My main screen is ASUS RG348Q at 3440x1440, so configuring 4 monitors at 800x600 adds 3200x600 which fits well within my main monitor resolution. My DCS setting is 3440x2040. No performance difference if I'm running one Lilliput or four. I first took the Lilliput USB monitors apart. Very easy to mount and arrange on the MDF without the plastic housing. Makes the arrangement much more compact. I outlined 3 monitors across the top with the Touch in the middle and one centered below the Touch screen to act as the 3rd MFD for the F-18. I will use the front plastic bezel for mounting the touch screen. For the MFD's, only the TM MFD's will be cut out on the MDF, with the Lilliput's mounted backside. It just so happens the TM MFD's are the exact height of the frameless Lilliput's, making layout super easy. I drilled three small holes below the TM MFD'd to mount the Lilliput button PCB to access the power/intensity functions for the Lilliput's. I have three Plugable USB 3.0 powered Hubs to power all the crap I got attached. USB monitors, MFD's, Stick, Throttle, Rudder, TrackIR, Mouse, Headset....etc! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM5OF70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I plan on getting a MonsterTech Flight Sim pit someday and this being 26" wide should mount on the 25" wide frame, using the driving wheel add-on. Anyway, just wanted to throw the idea out there. You really only need a drill, circular saw, and Jigsaw and good layout skills to complete. I did use my Festool TrackSaw and table saw too, but a steady hand with a circular saw will do. I'll paint satin black when finished. I will post some pics later.

Ordered mine this AM, 4 left! English Text Marking Version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/VKB-Sim-Gunfighter-Mk-II-MCG-Pro-English-verison/32849139167.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.30024623sAi4eN

I have two of these and USB are a big PITA. Google Displaylink and download latest drivers. I have a third lilliput 8" USB touchscreen that I wanted to use for maps, but when I turn that one on I loose the others. So I just use the two for MFD's. I think the displaylink drivers have conflicts with ATI for sure. They may work best with basic on board video for desktop office applications.

You can download Displaylink for ipad (for your PC) and the the Displaylink App (for your ipad) this creates a wireless monitor which you should be able to run HELIOS on. I can get my ipad to act as a monitor but have not run or tested HELIOS on it yet.

When you start flying the A-10, you will feel guilty for stealing this study sim for $60

Don't get 7" wide screen, I'm pretty sure you run out of vertical space for the TM MFCD's. Try Lilliput http://www.lilliputweb.net/index.php?Controller=User_Product&action=ShowProduct&product_id=48 Here on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Lilliput-8-4-3-XGA-TFT-LCD-Car-PC-Monitor-FA801-NP-C-/250711294961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5f8ec3f1 Touchscreens are a bit more for the same model.