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BitMaster

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Everything posted by BitMaster

  1. I am deeply saddened to hear this. we used to write PM‘s from time to time but I got no answer to my last attempts. Fare well my friend Lars
  2. Excellent idea ! For a 650w PSU you should get a 650VA UPS. 1VA = 1Watt. If you have decent hardware and a pricey GPU I advice you to look for a "Sinus-Wave" based device. The cheap ones have a 90° rectangle wave form and that may be good enough for your waterpump or driller or any e-motor to run but it will stress your PC components a LOT over time. Your whole VRM gets hotter and less efficient, will fail sooner etc.. .A SInus Wave based device is the best choice for sensitive equipment, the downside is less efficiency of the UPS itself and it costs more. APC is my 1st choice, never used or solkd another one tbh, I would get a Smart-UPS with 650-1000VA. You may find one refurbished with warranty and new batteries, that can save you quite some money. Where I buy mine, battery-direct.de, they offer used and new ones. Expect to replace the batts every 3-5 years. What kills them mostly is HEAT.
  3. You should always have a little more RAM than you will ever need. It's been like that since forever
  4. Don't get me wrong sew333, but tbh, in this case I always recommend DELL 4or5-Year NBD Premium Plus Support. They cover all of those things that may drive a noob nuts and don't know whom to ask and trust, I come across this from time to time among my customers. Manifest a relation of trust with one of the Top Dogs selling computers for a premium but also deliver premium service. They will investigate and repair if needed. I am aware that is 500-1000€ on top of it all, but that is how valuable such expertise is and if you don't trust our words, those guys at Dell or HP are professionals and do anything else but HelpDesk and fix Alienware computers, Falcon NW, etc any of the top names. Going around in circles in Forums is definitely not the way for someone who is uncertain or incapable of investigating issues sufficiently with Google and common sense and a little understanding of the matter. Consider an OEM that has Premium Support via Phone and Remote Management capabilities or buy at a Boutique around your corner where you can physically take your PC and say "I have a problem with this PC, Sir". The thing is, you gotta trust someone at the end of the day.
  5. AMD here, no issues. Installed that update on 20+ PC's and likely also servers and no issues. do a "sfc /scannow" and if that reports errors use DISM to repair them "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth" --to see if there are issues "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth" --checks if those issues can be fixed "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth" --this finally repairs issues with your dataset. After that I would do a "sfc /scannow" again and see if it says "All good". had that last week after a powerloss, ehhhh 4 reboots with errors and the above fixed it. ***You must launch Command Prompt as Administrator*** to fix it.
  6. I wouldnt say it vastly diminishes beyond 3200 per se. There are many reviews that show how fps can go up&down with MHz and Latency and the bottom line in 90% of all reviews past few years, DDR4-3600MHz CL16. Also, rather 64GB 3200CL16 than 32GB 3600CL14 for current DCS. I
  7. +1 for 64GB adding another 32GB later on could be tricky, I'd go 64GB from day 1 on.
  8. It pays to check the gear you are using from time to time. Be it Oil Level or XMP settings...
  9. It actually matters what hardware you are using since the error is very likely not caused by your stick but a faulty TPM implementation. I would certainly update the Bios if there is a newer one and update to the latest chipset drivers. Many boards, even older ones, got multiple Bios updates since the release of Win11 to make them ready for Win11's requirements. One other solution to try is to actually buy the TPM2 module for your board and see if that works better than the fTPM embedded in your CPU. You can find info about the specific module needed in your motherboard manual.
  10. Well, I could argue here as I work in scenarios where you do have a difference between Sata-SSD, NVMe3 and 4 but for most users that is not really important as they don't backup/restore/snapshot 50-500GB workloads, that's when you can see a difference, also between Evo and Pro Samsung drives for example. The difference is there and I sometimes ask myself why all those magazines and websites don't incorporate such scenarios to show examples where it can safe you time. Agreed, for gaming it is not that important. The reason why many still splitt OS from any other workload are dependencies. If you really screw it up you can format/recover/reinstall whatever with your C-drive and nothing happens to your actual data sets. It's not bad idea to move the Private Folders on another drive as well but that is another thing. Also Backups, if you keep heavy Games on other drive(s) you can backup your OS drive a lot faster and it's easier to handle than if you have Win11, DCS,1TB-Steam,+Office,Firefox..etc...all on 1x 2TB drive "C". If you want to back that up it's always an hourlong task. With a 50GB OS install it's a quick thing and less demanding in every aspect. With Win10 and 11, you hardly ever know exactly what it's doing under the hood, what it is planning to do in the next 5 minutes, when is the next Antivirus Fullscan, when does it search for updates again, when does Adobe, Mozilla, Google,XYZ..scan for their updates..oh..there is a HDD that needs defrag and a SSD that needs it's monthly trimming, lots of stuff that goes on underneath that you have virtually no real control over. Sure, with many cores and SSD in general that impact has gotten less and less but if you happen to have enough drives and ressources, I would always splitt OS and APPs. I have my Games, Virtual Machines and Movies/Pics all on dedicated drives and if Win11 has a bad day I switch to another boot drive and run Linux, as I do right now.
  11. I like Dell Optiplex, Precision and their servers but I would never consider a Pre-Build Gaming Desktop from Dell or HP. For that much money, you can get a better one built in any town, anywhere, anytime. As said above, the OEM restrictions void the whole idea of being "upgradable" and "tuneable".
  12. Well, I tried Liberation yesterday and ended up with 48 of 64GB in use. ...and I was only watching in F2-F10, not even flying myself anything. Take those 64 and make 96 or 128GB out of it if you want to run Liberation at it's max on the same rig you also play at. With 64GB you will end up swapping heavily with the right mission *I can see us crying for 128GB before the year is over...LoL
  13. I am not sure with the OP ment with "in a RV", like motor home ? I have been through all that and on top of that I build them too for others, I would not recommend a laptop if you have the chance to squeeze an ITX system "somewhere". HDMI and USB cables can be very long and honestly, I have travelled with Alienware & Dell myself, at the end of the day...you carry a BIG laptop rucksack, mine is Himalaya size, a bag with your Hotas, your usual bag(s). It wont matter much if you carry an ITX or a Laptop imv.
  14. Larry, with 4 sticks it is not uncommon that you have to raise the DDR Voltage from it's XMP value of 1.35v to 1.375--1.40v. Work your way up from 1.35v in 0.01v steps and see if it boots. The volts it boots on might still be 0.01v below where they also run stable. If you overdo the volts, say you start right away with 1.45v it clould be that your RAM and/or IMC fail due to signal integrity going south. There is an upper and a lower limit of where they like to run, try to pinpoint the middle. I would dial in 1.40v and see if they boot, if they do, try less and less until they fail again, then go 1 or 2 steps up again and boot the OS and makie some stability tests. Best is a 3-5 day run w/o reboot and some hefty tests in between. I would not go above 1.4v unless you know what Die your RAM has, some die SKU's die an instant death at 1.45v according to some Youtubers like Buildzoid. If you run Samsung B-Die, the limit is far beyond 1.45v but makes little sense in 99% of the cases.
  15. +1 to the above I wanna stress this: Don't even try to upgrade the GPU to a 3080ti without putting a better PSU in AT THE SAME TIME !
  16. Short answer, in your case yes.
  17. I hope ED will make a statement about 64GB usage so these non-stopping questions about 64G get addressed properly. Also, saying "Our Sim needs 64GB of potentially very expensive RAM to run at it's best" is not really attracting to new customers. So, the debates will go on, LoL
  18. The constant 100% GPU will heat-load any laptop and likely cause it to downclock the GPU. I know you want it mobile, I have been there too, but it does come with the heat problem. Think twice before you go that route
  19. That really depends on your GPU and resolution/VR. Without those details no one can help you.
  20. All ok, but get 64GB of RAM right away. If you plan on any bigger GPU's in the future you should also get a good 1000w PSU. I think, personally, the Gigabyte Board from my sig is the better alternative to what you have picked, but both will work. Tip: When it comes to RAM, the Ripjaw kit from my sig runs very well on 3600 CL14 @ 1.4v.
  21. 100% right Always had more RAM than the average PC of that time had and it always paid out well. Since adding RAM has always been an issue, more or less, it has many advantages to buy sufficient +some extra. Sometimes I wish I had opted for 128GB when doing VMware....next machine will have that.
  22. Yep, I have said this many times before in other threads. What a waste of energy. You can power 3 Mac M1's with those 90w and do serious work, no...Nvidia wants to be a heater
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