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yoreh

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Everything posted by yoreh

  1. Great job Sir. i will be following your progress for sure! by the way, do you wish to sell the old legends of the warning lights (the yellow ones)? Cheers, Yoreh
  2. Parts printed and assembled for test fitting: Cheers, Yoreh.
  3. My (very baisc...) design for the ilde stop/release mecanism. it features a solonoid mounted verticaly above a cam pully wheel. when throttle is opened, the pully is rotated up to the point where the solonoid shaft "clears" the cam and drops into place by means of a spring. from this point the trottle can only be opened further as the solonoisd shaft bumps into the cam wall when trying to close. to fully close it, we need to press the idle release button witch activate the solonoid, electro-agneticly pulling the shaft above the cam level so throttle can be fully closed. to be printed... cheers, Yoreh
  4. Well, for now it's somehow in a stand still... hoping to find more time to push on. Cheers, Yoreh
  5. Hi, i'm sorry but the collective head parts are not my desgin and prints. i ordered them from MicroHelis.de Cheers, Yoreh
  6. Hi, the Glareshield is just a piece of flexible PVC sheet witch i cut to shape and painted black. i then drilled holes evey 10cm or so along it's edge and screwed it to the edge of the instrument panel (witch is 17mm MDF board). it is that simple. hope that helps, Cheers Yoreh
  7. Thank you Sir. Some progress on the collective throttle mechanism. in the photo you can see an M8 threaded rod that will serve as the collective central rod. the white printed cylinder is the adapter that will hold the threaded rod and connect to the throttle grip. the M5 bolt head is removed, i cut a small notch instead so i can use a flat head screwdriver to fit it in place. this bolt is fitted through the throttle grip, through the groove in the collective shaft, into a ready made hole on the center of the white adapter. now, when twisting the grip, the adapter rotate, along with the threaded rod. this, in turn will rotate a pot at the back of the shaft. another printed cylinder is fitted at the end of the shaft to keep the M8 rod centered. next stage is to design the pot housing, along with the idle stop/release mechanism. cheers, Yoreh
  8. Update - Collective stick Here's a small update. I started working on my collective stick last friday. the switchbox is designed and 3D printed by Juergen Behrens from "microheli.de". i'd like to thank Juergen for his perfect designs and prints. here is the printed switchbox with all it's parts: the shaft is a piece of a stainless steel tube. i started by fitting the box on the shaft and marked the set screw location. i then drilled and taped it to M4. i used a cone head alen screw to secure the box to the shaft. i then fitted the friction nut, throttle and the rear bracket, marked the set screw location, drilled and taped to M4. the throttle handle has a hole on it, witch i want to use to "transfer" the rotational movement to a rod witch will be fitted inside the shaft. in order to do that, a pin will have to pass through the throttle, through the shaft itself and connect to the centeral rod. i needed to cut a groove in the shaft for this pin to run in... so, i marked the hole location in a closed throttle position, and in the fully open position. i removed the throttle and marked the grove between the hole marks. i used a hand saw to cut the groove. this somehow weaken the shaft, but no worries, the shaft will be "held" by the throttle from the outside, and the adapter of the central rod from the inside. the centeral rod will be routed along the shaft to the shaft base. there i will fit a pot for throttle position, along with a solonoid setup to control the idle stop/release positions. cheers, Yoreh
  9. Hi, yesterday i managed to hook up the instrument panel to my laptop and test how it looks. There is still some fine tuning to be done but for now i'm pretty happy with the results. I added some blue lenses for the compass and marker beacon, and moved the three main warning lights down the panel in order to use the software (Ikarus) warning lights. Also added a bazel for the radar altimeter. Cheers Yoreh. Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  10. Try to avoid usong pin 1 and 2. I think they mess up things as they are used to communication
  11. While i was searching for a solution how to sync my UHF divce with dcs, Hansolo referred me to his Tacan project and tjis helped me alot. Maybe this can help you too... https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3336218&postcount=180 Cheers, Yoreh.
  12. Thank you PilotMi8! As a final stage of the cyclic, i took a 25X0.5 cable and soldered a DB25 connector at it's end - the other end was connected to the junction wbox with terminals - Hooking up the pedals rotary sensor. i used the same sensor as the cyclic. i took an aluminum rod and drilled a 6mm hole for the sensor shaft, and tapped an M5 hole for the set scerw - sensor on the rod - i installed an angle bracket for the sensor at the right location - i then cut the rod to lentgh, and drilled a second 6mm hole at the other end. with the aid of an M6 linkage and an M6 long bolt, i hooked up the sensor to the pedals "T" bar section - i don't like this setup 100% but it works so i have no intentions to delay on that. i did some more work on my instrument panel. the encoder brackets were replaced with smaller ones. i did not like the aliexpress encoder heads so i decided to make some myself. i started wi 12mmX20mm aluninum rod. in the picture the rods after knurling process, and the original heads from aliexpress - i drilled a hole in the center for the encoder shaft, and tapped two M5 set screws. this is how it looks like - i added a frame for the Attitude indicator. on the frame i mounted two encoders for the pitch / roll adjustment - that's all for now. i'm starting to stress with the amount of work yet to be done :cry: cheers, Yoreh
  13. Alright, so after the paint had dried, i started the re-assembly, and now was the time to mount the motion sensors and some wiring. The Y axis sensor is installed directly on it's rotating shaft. i welded an M5 bolt to the end of the shaft, and replaced the two M8 bolts that hold the braeing with longer M8 threaded rod. i made a plate for the sensor and istalled it on those rods with nuts on both sides. to connect the M5 bolt to the sensor i made aluminum couplers on the mini lathe. Y axis sensor installed: i had to cut from the upper plate in order to make room for this installation the same method was used for the X axis sensor. the only difference is this sensor is mounted on the bell crank shaft (that is because i had limited space on the gimbal mechanism). in order to connect all wiring of the cyclic, a junction box was needed. i chose to install it on the floor plate of the cyclic, at the rear part. this is from below: i then routed all the wires into this box (grip, magnets, sensors) i then closed everything up. at this point the cyclic is mechanicly ready. what's left to be done is to hook up all the wires in the JB to one multi-wire cable (db-25), witch will connect to the main board of the sim. JB location: After the wiring is over maybe i will finaly clear my head for the next project (collective system). Cheers, Yoreh
  14. Hi marques, thank you. I belive the dumpers cover all the range but i will have to make sure. Right now the system is taken apart for painting and electicall wiring. As soon as it on again I'll give it a try... Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you sir. Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  16. Thank you sir!! Actually your system was the isperation for mine ☺ (take a look at post #26...). I really anches to try it already Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  17. Hi all, here's an update for the cyclic force trim system. Yesterday i had smoe free time and was able to finish the system installation. first, i installed the rail and force gardient for the X axis. then i installed the two electromagnetic locks: I then made a temporary connection of the magnets to the PSU, in order to shoot a short video of the system in action while still on the workbench. in the video, you can see the stick movement before force-trim is appliied. then i connect the PSU to the power and from this point you can see the stick movement with force-trim applied. Now comes the time to install the cyclic on the simulator frame. for that i made a metal frame out of a 20mm square tubing. i welded it in place (between the chair and pedals). in the photo you can see the cyclic on the frame (with clamps), just before drilling the holes for the bolts. i drilled and secured it with nine M6 bolts. i used so many bolts because i have noticed that when force trim is applied, the spring resistance on the stick causes some deformation of the stick base plate. After the stick was secured, i installed the grip on top of it. the wires run through the stick tube all the way down and through the gimbal mechanizm. i connected the push button to the system, using a relay. A relay is needed because the push button is Normlly-opened (no contact when not pushed). so the push button energize a relay, the magnets are connected to a normally-closed contact of the relay. the end result is when the button is pushed, the relay is energized, the magnet are de-energized and the stick is free to move to a new center. when the button is releasesd, the relay is de-energized, the magnets are energized, and the stick is trimed to it's new relative center. Whlie testing the stick movement, two problem were discoverd: 1. when stick not trimmed - there's a grinding filling on the Y axis. 2. when stick is trimmed - a small freeplay of the stick shaft on the Y axis. the first problem was solved by increasing the gap between the magnet and metal bar of the Y axis. the second problem came from a deformation of the stick shaft right at it's connection point to the gimbal. the M6 bolt used to connect them, when tied, deformed the shaft into a eliptical shape, thus allowing it to free move on the socket. i solved the problem by adding a small set screw on the stick shaft, perpendicular to the M6 bolt. (just a small no-head allen screw). After i was saticfied with the stick action, i took everythig apart, cleaned, welded, grined and painted all the parrts. The next stage is connecting the motion sensors, the main board and an electrical box. Cheers, Yoreh
  18. Thanks body, i'm not from Australia, but if you wanna relocate to Israel you're more than welcome ☺ Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  19. Thank you marquse. I appreciate it! Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk
  20. Thank you BIGNEWY! work continues on the cyclic stick. i started to build the magnetic trim system. my insperation came from molevitch Mi-24 cyclic build, so many thanks to you molevitch for your amazing project. As seen before, my gimbal mechanizm sits below the floor plate, and quite high for itself. if i had to connect the linkage for the trim system on the same plane, the angle of the linkage would be too steep and may cause porblems to stick movement. so i cut another plate to serve as a higher platform for all the trim mechanizm. i then installed some 10cm M6 bolts on the floor plate, and placed 7cm PVC spacers on them: i then placed the new plate on the spacers and secured with spring washers and nuts for connection to the gimbal, i attached (welded), two unistrat pipe clapms to each square tube of the gimbal (X axis, Y axis). in the folowing image, you can also notice the short linkage attched to the X axis. i used the unistrat clamp because it fitted the size, saving me the trouble of making a special part. Ok, so magnetic trim is achived by locking the stick in a specific point (new center).the locking is done with the aid of electro magnetic door locks. when the cyclic is locked (trimmed), movment on both axis is possible against springs, located inside a component called " a force gardient" the force gardients brings the stick to the center when no hand movement applied. when trim is disabled, the cyclic moves freely with alomst no resistence and no centering, except for the small centering ability of the rubber grummet. for the force gardients i used a motorcycle steering dumper (from AliExpress): i took it apart, draind the oil out. i obtaind some springs from a local mechanic shop. they gave it to me free of charge: i placed two springs, one on each side of the center rod: i re installed the rod inside the case, and closed it up. now, this dumper is spring loaded, when i squiz it to one side it will self center. next, i need to connect the force gardient to the metal bar that came with the magnetic lock. this was pretty strait forward. the bar have a 8 mm hole so i secured the gardient clamp to it with an M8 bolt Next part of the system is a rail, witch is needed to achive the movment of the metal bar againts the =magnetic lock. i used simple drawer rails: The Y axis gardient/magnetic lock/rail set is going to be instlled parallel to the axis movement, quite simple. for the X axis it's a different story. it's gonna be perpendicular to the axis, so some sort of 90 degress movement conversion is needed. i made a "L" shaped bar with three holes. i belive it's called a "bell-crank". the center rotation hole is 12mm, the linkage connection holes are 8mm. i then welded a 12mm rod in place, and some M8 bolts: i located the right spot to istalled the crank and placed some pillow bearings for it (one above the plate, one below). I bolted the Y axis rail to the elevated plate, right behind the gimbal. welded the metal bar to the rail, so it sits verticaly on top of it. then connected the force gardient beween the metal bar and the Y axis of the gimbal. i also connected the short linkage from the X axis to the bell crank. in the backround of the picture we can see the electro magnetic lock unit. on the next update i'll install the rail/gardient/lock for the X axis, then it would be possible to make a quick test to the system. Cheers, Yoreh
  21. Just had some time to go over your build log. you are doing an amazing job here. keep up the good stuff comming... i'm impressed!
  22. more work on the cyclic Hi all, I did't like the cyclic shaft i made early on , so i had to make a new one. this time paying more attention to reference photos. Connecting the shaft to the gimbal. On my first attempt to do so, i came up with a "U" shaped bracket. it was welded to toe top of the center rod in the gimbal. i then drilled a 6mm hole through the shaft and bracket and fastened it with a bolt and nut. The problem with this setup was the "U" bracket grinding against the hole in the mounting plate, cousing the stick shaft to move in a very "un-flowing" manner. For the second attempt i took a piece of pipe, witch outer diameter is slightly bigger than the shaft inner diameter i then turned it on my mini lathe, to fit inside the shaft i welded it to the top of the gimball center rod and drilled the hole for the bolt here is the gimbal with the stick shaft connected here you can see the new shaft i made with the hole in the floor plate (the other "U" bracket was grindind against this hole) here's the stick mounted in place. there is another aluminum plate at the top to hold the rubber grummet in place stick movement demo - Cheers, Yoreh
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