Jump to content

Brewnix

Members
  • Posts

    519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Brewnix

  1. I have been using only Fusion 360 for all my 3d printed and CNC projects. Some what of a steep learning curve for me. But a bit of time and some YouTube tutorials and Googling and I manage. I had no CAD experience at all. But as stated by Muts it's free. Download the trial use it for a month and then ask for a free hobby use license at the end of the free trial. It draws in 2d and 3d objects you can save DXF and STL files. Then you are able to switch to the Manufacturing tab set tools and compute tool path's for your project for 3 axis CNC. I have not run in to anything that required me to want to pay for a sub. Other then the simulations tab. But that's another story.

    • Thanks 1
  2. On 3/31/2021 at 4:25 AM, hsssonic said:

    Next iteration... Kerning is quite challenging, but for every solved problem i do learn something new...

    Every letter should be extrudeable. If there are still some kerning issues, maybe place single letters and place them right, or feel fre to edit the font. I used the free software fontforge.

     

     

    ExtrudeTest.png

    MS33558ver3.ttf 11.35 kB · 17 downloads

     

    Nice work. They look good.

  3. Not to beat a dead horse but I bought a broken thrustmaster throttle with the purpose of gutting and rebuilding with another controller. Plugged throttle in 5 lights solid green at top doesn't recognize in the USB. I ran across the bootloader trick reloading firmware I guess. So for 50bucks broken throttle bought off ebay. Used the "Boot Loader Method" brought back to life the throttle. Just a thought if you have not tried it.

    • Like 1
  4. On 1/10/2021 at 1:45 PM, Bbow said:

    Disregard the previous. I did some research and the AV8B has the same MFDs as the F18. The OpenHornet guys will have done their research and the width of the MFD is what I used to correlate the width of the UFC. It comes out around 134 mm. 

     

     Well research is what I need help with. Any Idea on specs please post. I have found nothing to help with measurements. Other then screen shots and such and trying extrapolate off known sizes. Also UFC if it its 134mm that works for me. I actually I came up with 135mm but nothing set in stone. My UFC is just theory phase. 

  5. 15 hours ago, Bbow said:

    Just the width and length of the SAAHS panel.   Mine came out as 143 mm at the widest part and 83 mm top to bottom. 

     

    Thank you so much for creating these, really appreciate it. 

     

    Oh btw, the SAAHS panel says YAW on the bottom, middle button, shouldn't that be ROLL? 

    Yes good catch. Ya its supposed be "roll".  Funny thing is I have been finding out with Fusion360 is that the sizes have changed in a lot of my drawings. Not sure how it happen. I have been thinking it's when I click on a line accidentally drag them a smidge. Possibly. I built them with the panel guide

    https://mycockpit.org/tutorials/Panelbuildingfocussedondimensions.pdf

    This is the Link I used to build them. Bottom plate was suppose to be 146.05mm and the top plate 144.45mm. Problem is I have no real world measurement so I made the width as per the guide but had to eyeball the length by measuring the dzus whole size and lettering and adjusting what looked about right. I checked some of my other sketchs I have saved and the measurements are off too. Thanks for using them, open source and change them if you need, if you create better please repost the better file. I am happy to share. And I wanted to spur the creation of AV8B cockpit build. Eh! alittle flawed not to bad to change.   Thanks!

    • Thanks 1
  6. Well I'm not surprised it was pretty powerful cad program for the free hobbyist version. I really think they would get more community support if they made a subscription for the personal\hobbyist. Under $120 a year is very reasonable to me for software that is this good at multi roll functions. I use it for my 3d printer and my cnc desktop router.

  7. I like, these look awesome. Nice and solid. And use of Arduino I think is a good choice for the fact its open source. SO I know it might too early to ask but technically with use of Arduino tech and its availability they can be sold as mechanics only or only complete units?

  8. I went into Staples and bought a trifold black foam board of the type you’d see on a school science project.

     

    I cut out my notch for my legs and flight stick, and put some Velcro on the corners to hold it to the cockpit (the grey you see is outdoor carpet, and Velcro will stick to it). That and the two wooden posts the board is stapled to hold it in place, and when not using it, I can fold it in thirds.

     

    54f9c8cb275162b70e8dd5948b82dd0b.jpg

     

     

    102ba6f30b5c7a16ac5c0ed2230d88a1.jpg

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

     

    RogueSqdn have you thought about searching and sourcing a local plastic vendor or store in your area other then local big box stores. Also local plastic shop would have the ability to cut it. Or a sign shop that might sell you partial or left overs from a project. I would think some form of 1/4" clear acrylic sheet would work good!

  9. Just looking for a source for the resister networks..

    Ah ok! There kind of all over the place just google

    "10k ohm 9 pin network resistor"

    Not sure about some of the numbers stamped on the resistor but they are directional for the Debolestis's shift reg boards the little dot needs to be the right way on the board.

    https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2760524&postcount=50

    and capacitor reference.

    https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2762026&postcount=56

    Technically you can make your own network resistor but it doesn't look pretty

    https://learn.pimoroni.com/tutorial/hacks/inline-resistor-network just a idea if you have resistors lying around. Third pic down on page.

  10. I'd also recommend the BU0836 series if your goal is just getting a pit built with certain amount of customized features. But I could feel the itch to try out something new every time someone comes across electronics, and I'd rather encourage people to unlock their potentials.

     

    Try not to think about all the big words when starting, coz that's how textbooks bore the crap out of people. It seems like a pure brain job to work with microcontrollers but muscle memory also plays a critical role in the learning curve, especially during the initial stage. Lots of guys freak out when they start reading all the gibberish from datasheets and reference manuals. While they didn't realize it's important to build some confidence by watching youtube tutorials and copy all the moves step by step. Set up the environment, connect the board and debugger, get a flashing LED sample project working, then go back and try to figure out why it worked.

     

    USB is further down the line. You may have a thousand questions now but after you get your first couple of sample projects working, you'll be able to ask them in a different way. Fortunately most of the answers are readily available.

     

     

    Well said!!

     

     

    @Wingnut41. Maybe since you already have a STM32F103C8T6 board maybe first steps are to see if you can find a sketch or use FreeJoy to load a Joystick device on to it. Grab just a couple of toggle switches and try wiring them up. Make sure what ever sketch you load that you have a proper pin out diagram.

  11. Ok I completely understand. First have you got a plan as to what buttons, toggles or encoders or potentiometers you are going to use? Second if this is looking to ominous for first time building there are premade boards you can buy that the usb side of things is already done for you just got to wire swtiches to it. Like http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/

    These are extremely user friendly. Buy the equipment and plug the wires in and its up and running. No configuring. Plus the community will help.

  12. Hi i found this webpage thought it might help.

    https://opensimhardware.wordpress.com/pedal-button-controller/

    https://github.com/OpenSimHardware/PedalButtonController

    I am new and learning in electronics most of my stuff has been copy and directed by others. I went the route of MMjoy myself. I was alittle intimidated by the Arduino world cause you have to either write your own sketch or find and copy n paste someone else's sketch. The nice thing about Freejoy or MMjoy it writes the code for you. You just configure your buttons setup in the interface and upload to board. Any way both direction get you too the same destination. Do you have general layout or idea of your project?

  13. Hey debolestis!

     

    I seem to remember one of these posts having a parts list attached...and now I can't find it.

     

    Any chance you can give me the rundown?

     

    Thanks in advance

    Sierra

    Do you need help sourcing parts or building? The parts are labeled on the the board. The 2 major ones are the 10k ohm network resistor and the 4021 shift register. I remember in some post conversation with Debolestis the "capacitor 100nf" I can't remember the type but you only need that when you start to daisy chain the boards. So technically you only need pin headers, resistors and shift register. I have built a few of these boards I can dig them up and give you part or model numbers?

  14. "Merged Reality" I think it would be awesome idea my self. I don't think ED would start this though I believe if a person or a group of programmers wanted to be a third party like they do with aircraft that might work. Make a secondary program you can addon kind of thing. I been wondering on how much performance you would gain if you render only the map you fly and use a physical cockpit for flying in VR. Personally I would pay for extra program like that. Obviously I have great respect for ED and there beautiful work on the whole sim in its entirety. But wouldn't you think there would be some performance gains on map only flying?

  15. They probably stopped supporting IPv4 routing. Chances are the number of people with DOCSIS 2.0 modems was so low it was easier to handle it in the call center as opposed to some kind of DNS hijack (which don't work that well anymore) or mailer that would simply confuse people before it got thrown in the trash.

     

    I worked for Charter 10 years ago and they'd already dropped support for DOCSIS 1.0/1.1 and DOCSIS 2.0 was on life support. I got tons of calls telling people to upgrade their customer-owned modems. If Cox is only doing this now they dropped the ball big time seeing how DOCSIS 3.1 is rapidly becoming standard (with the possibility of symmetric gigabit) and DOCSIS 4.0 is on the drawing board. If a node only had DOCSIS 3.0 modems they could support vastly more bandwidth, but even a single 2.0 modem would crippled an entire node until it was removed and replaced. (DOCSIS 1.1 and 2.0 had less interference.)

     

    As for the OP's question, it really depends on a lot. I get 400Mbps from Spectrum, despite Gigabit being available for a ruinous price, and don't have problems despite heavy streaming, lots of gamers and even frequent torrenting. If AT&T built out their fiber to my neighborhood I'd have switched months ago, but as it stands my working-class single-family home neighborhood has 25Mbps DSL, but the apartments three blocks away that no one will deliver pizza to because it's such a slum has fiber....:/

     

    If you can easily afford it I'd do it, but I doubt you'll see a lot of benefit other than on sustained downloads like from Steam. (Which is why I didn't bother.) On cable with laughably asymmetric connections it's just a way to say you have the bigger epeen. On fiber, with gigabit both ways, I understand it's a game changer.

     

     

     

     

    So for general knowledge said named telecom was filling a quota in part of the agreement in buying one of the recent companies they bought. That's why they thru fiber at the Multi Dwelling Units. Just wanted you to know it wasn't you and your neighbor hood in general it was the volume they needed.

  16. That's a pretty good idea actually. Aluminum sheeting and local machine shop. I was gonna try to hack and saw out my ejection seat and cockpit out of wood. But it would be a lot easier to have them cut pieces out of aluminum. By the way awesome addition of the stick ext to your warthog. Those little RC shocks and machine parts make look professional. Can you share what kind of shocks or dampers they are? I have home made PVC ext held up by springs right now. I have had a idea on back burner to try this kind of mod just never knew where to start with the little shocks.

×
×
  • Create New...