Scott-S6

I have pedals that use rails with linear bearing skates and have been using them for several years. No problems whatever with sticktion due to dust, etc - linear bearing skates have wipers built in. If I disengage the springs I can make them run end to end with a tap of a finger. If this was a problem they wouldn't be ubiquitous in machine tools.

You should ask in the home cockpit forum, this one is for products from the RealSimulator company. You can get fairly inexpensive 25" ultra wide screens. They're approximately 24x11. Not touchscreens and not curved though. With a quick look I don't see any 22-23" ultra wide touch screens, yet alone curved ones. I notice that the the viperwing F35 pit doesn't haven't a curved display... Iiyama have a 20x10 touchscreen. A little pricey. TF2215MC-B2

Yes and no. If you just rotate it 180 then the down position will be well below horizontal and the up position will be approximately horizontal. It needs to be rotated less than 180. Also, if you have the version with throttle then you have additional issues.

I mean, you can reverse it but then it it'll be moving from angled down up to horizontal. You'll have to build an angle into your mount and if you could do that you'd have just made a mount.

Yep, Falcon Matters were very clear on this recently. They've also made their CAD files available.

Fun! This should help.

In which aircraft?

I had the correct screw but incorrect nut...

Where is your camera relative to you? Can we get a side shot of your setup with seat and camera visible?

Just tried locking to 60 and 70 fps. Each was tested with gsync, screen set to 60hz and screen set to 144hz. Saw no difference in head tracking. Trackir 5 (real one, not a Chinese clone) with trackclip pro.

This is the correct solution. It will work lose again though so I went ahead and epoxy bedded the tailpipe (a replacement steel one) into the grip.

No, slide switches slide, not rock like a hat switch. These are under trim switches. There are two ways in there as well.

Your absolutely want the F16/A10 grip over the F15/F18 grip. The F16 grip has an additional hat switch and the lack of that will be bothersome on several aircraft.

As I said, yours would need to be quite different giving the mounting plates on your frame.

Not really a problem on a t1600m because the springing is very light. You'll find it more of a problem on your new setup. With any significant spring force you'll find a prolonged turning fight unnecessarily fatiguing. Essentially you want a wedge shaped piece of aluminium that fits between the mount and base. The CM3 mount is attached only at the bracket at the front so this is a small part. Easy to make on a table saw. I don't have a good picture of my old CM3 side mount and it will be quite different to yours anyway but here's a pic of the current non-angled mount and a pointlessly close up pic of the old angled mount.