Scott-S6

I have pedals that use rails with linear bearing skates and have been using them for several years. No problems whatever with sticktion due to dust, etc - linear bearing skates have wipers built in. If I disengage the springs I can make them run end to end with a tap of a finger. If this was a problem they wouldn't be ubiquitous in machine tools.

You should ask in the home cockpit forum, this one is for products from the RealSimulator company. You can get fairly inexpensive 25" ultra wide screens. They're approximately 24x11. Not touchscreens and not curved though. With a quick look I don't see any 22-23" ultra wide touch screens, yet alone curved ones. I notice that the the viperwing F35 pit doesn't haven't a curved display... Iiyama have a 20x10 touchscreen. A little pricey. TF2215MC-B2

Yes and no. If you just rotate it 180 then the down position will be well below horizontal and the up position will be approximately horizontal. It needs to be rotated less than 180. Also, if you have the version with throttle then you have additional issues.

I mean, you can reverse it but then it it'll be moving from angled down up to horizontal. You'll have to build an angle into your mount and if you could do that you'd have just made a mount.

Yep, Falcon Matters were very clear on this recently. They've also made their CAD files available.

Fun! This should help.

In which aircraft?

I had the correct screw but incorrect nut...

Where is your camera relative to you? Can we get a side shot of your setup with seat and camera visible?

Just tried locking to 60 and 70 fps. Each was tested with gsync, screen set to 60hz and screen set to 144hz. Saw no difference in head tracking. Trackir 5 (real one, not a Chinese clone) with trackclip pro.

This is the correct solution. It will work lose again though so I went ahead and epoxy bedded the tailpipe (a replacement steel one) into the grip.

No, slide switches slide, not rock like a hat switch. These are under trim switches. There are two ways in there as well.

Your absolutely want the F16/A10 grip over the F15/F18 grip. The F16 grip has an additional hat switch and the lack of that will be bothersome on several aircraft.

As I said, yours would need to be quite different giving the mounting plates on your frame.

Not really a problem on a t1600m because the springing is very light. You'll find it more of a problem on your new setup. With any significant spring force you'll find a prolonged turning fight unnecessarily fatiguing. Essentially you want a wedge shaped piece of aluminium that fits between the mount and base. The CM3 mount is attached only at the bracket at the front so this is a small part. Easy to make on a table saw. I don't have a good picture of my old CM3 side mount and it will be quite different to yours anyway but here's a pic of the current non-angled mount and a pointlessly close up pic of the old angled mount.

The reason for recommending the alpha for space sims is because it has the analogy stick which is very useful for Elite. Whereas an extra hat switch is more useful for modern fighters. Re grip "breaking away", if a side stick doesn't have enough forward rake you won't be able to keep the heel of your hand against the stick as you pull backwards because your wrist doesn't bend upwards enough. Look at your hand as you do this with the T1600M and you will probably see this happening.

Yep, in that kind of use case the forward rake of the alpha will be a substantial benefit. The test to see if it's enough rake for you is to make sure you can pull the stick fully rearwards without breaking your grip. If you find that the heel of your hand is breaking away from the grip (because you can't angle your wrist enough) then you need to make an intermediate mount that rotates the whole base+grip forward. I prefer the CM3 base to the warbird for all purposes except on-desk use.

How will you be mounting the stick? For side stick or desktop use the forward rake of the alpha will be more comfortable. For center stick mounting the more vertical CM2 will be more comfortable.

Mine's here.The quality issue is overblown, imo (and I'm very fussy about this). An extra 10% GF would have made it look and feel better but it's fine, it doesn't creak or flex. My main complaint is that the two-way hats are very sloppy. (other than the usual of virpil adding press to hats that are not shaped or positioned for it to work ergonomically but that's not hard to eliminate)

Other grips, which I already have. I don't need a 64 grip specifically (I fly lots of aircraft and even if replica controls were available for all of them constantly swapping would become tedious very quickly). I ordered the 64 grip because it's the most versatile option but that's not sufficient for me to tolerate a poor quality unit.

This is concerning. I was expecting the same PA GF material as their other sticks. If this is standard and not just a poor mix on Lumbergh's example then I'll be returning mine.

The audio device you select for headset only gets the audio that plays in the pilot's headset, not the general cockpit audio so what you described is exactly correct for the options you selected. You want the cockpit audio to go to the buttkicker and to your headset. That requires additional software - see the buttkicker software.

Yes, I am a wizard.

You should ask in the thrustmaster sub-forum, this is for controls from Total Controls. Also, this might help https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/hotas/manual/HOTAS_Warthog/HWarthog_Bootloader_Method.pdf

While it doesn't come with a damper, fitting/removing the spring is easy and installing a damper is easy.