debolestis

Hi. I am looking to buy Defender Cobra M5 joystick. It doesn't have to be be in working condition. Thank you!

Yes, this type of gimbal is very light in the center. I had to apply a bit of deadzone to deal with this problem. Other than that gimbal performed OK. Feeling is similar to Uber 2 mod.

This things happen, and I am sorry for that. But this is plastic gimbal and this can happen, that is why we have 3d printing and parts can be replaced. I understand that Shapeays company has been raising prices and shipping as well, but I cannot do anything about that. Also shipping to countries like Brazil is insane. I would help and print parts on my printer and send them to Brazil but my prints are not strong as nylon parts from Shapeways' laser printers.

I am sorry that this is happening to you. This can be the case with FSSB, try use some electrical tape. If it doesn't work, let me know and I'll print a new one for you.

I don't have plans for this.

I have added a new part in my Shapeways store. It is for Toliss Airbus add-on. It is tested and working. If anybody is interested part can be bought from Shapeways or I can print it myself much cheaper.

Thank you for the feedback. Unfortunately I cannot make a CAM version, there is not enough space inside for something more that can be done with 3D printers.

Warthog base expects up to three shift registers. Each is used for eight switches. You probably shorted second chip. If you have less than 3 chips, some switches simply cannot be pressed. And Warthog has 22 switches so last two pins on last SR are newer used. They can be used with Mmjoy2 or some other controller.

OK, great then!

Post a photo please.

I don't have that grip and I cannot make a video. If its anything like Warthog it is not complicated, I would only recommend patience and time. There are many tiny cables inside. I am not sure what is correct angle in F18, but from looking photos of the cockpit it looks more or less correct.

Some parts that I print look much better from Shapeways parts. Like this nut, printed in PETG. Knurling details are looking much better.

Just an information for everybody who orders from Shapeways. They have stupid policy of increasing prices all the time. They have increased prices for anything that is painted again. White parts are 20% cheaper. I can print most of the parts myself much cheaper. Here are a few examples that I printed last few days.

Hi Thadiun Okona, haven't heard from you for a while. I hope that you are good. Thank you for PLA suggestion, I'll look into it. But I think that for my gimbal design it will not be strong enough. There is also problem with printing orientation and complex shape. On my CAM gimbal I used a few tricks and it works great but assembly was very complex and most people wouldn't like that. But I can print almost everything else.

I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints. Most of other parts I can print.

I have tried this mod and it will not work well. Base is simply deigned with sliding potetnitometers in mind and there is nothing that can be done. Best solution is to use any other type of mechanics.

There are tabs holding the wires on connector. Use something like tiny flat head screwdriver to lift the tabs a pull the wire gently and it will go out. Make a photo of connector before you start, I always forget wire order.

I use 0,4 because of threads and similar finer things. I used 0,6 for a while and it is super fast, especially on draft setting. This Prusament galaxy black has sparkling bits in it, it is just for effect but somehow printing lines seem to be less visible and I like it. PLA is probably the strongest material, only drawback is stability on higher temperatures. But something like joystick never goes in hi-temperature regime. I like THIS you tube Chanel, there are many interesting material testing videos. is testing of usual 3D printing materials and PLA seems to be winner.

I was thinking the same. I want that throttle has possibility of raising grips, like in Warthog, I'll think of something.

Thank you Sokol, I saw this before, that is nice grip. Is there something on throttle mechanics?

I actualy printed on 20% giroid infill, 4 perimeters, and 0,3 mm layer hight (draft option) on 0.4 mm nozzle. I used 100% before but it is really not necessary and takes so much more time. I only printed cams on 100%. Enclosure was on 10%. Dark grey material is Prusamet Galaxy black PLA.

Thank you! Now I am planing to print new throttle. Did anybody see something about that on forums?

I was working on new CAM gimbal lately, I had some free time. I wanted to see if my Prusa MK3s printer is capable of printing parts that are strong enough. After month of testing I must say that I am satisfied, still works like on first day, nothing is broken. I used mostly standard M4, M5 and M6 screws and bolts, washers, 12 ball bearings, two springs and some bras threaded inserts. Except screws and bolts I bough everything on eBay. Sensors are GVL 224. I have bought two 5011 as well but I still need to test them. I have two rubber boots from FLCS and F22 that were donated to me, they are hard to find and I couldn't find proper replacement for them. They help a lot with dampening. Since it is 3D printed I made it a bit bigger, I doesn't mind but maybe I'll make enclosure smaller in the future. It will need some minor modifications but I think it is mostly finished. I must say that I didn't invent anything here, this is basically Baur BRD / WarBRD gimbal. I am sorry for bad image quality.

I have uploaded new model. It was also made by request. It is triple detent for Viggen. It can be found HERE.

Mine have worked fine until I sold it 2 months ago. Only issue that I had was broken spring and that was easy fix. Keep on mind that this gimbal is light in the center and some dead zone is needed. Now I am trying to print complete gimbal with CAM mechanism. Version 1 was good, but it needs some improvements.