Tekkx

I have ordered some of these amazing new NANO every. In China. So they will run a while. If these arrived, I'll do a test with that. Everys have a faster CPU... It's a small chance, but a chance. Stay tuned. Gesendet von meinem TA-1020 mit Tapatalk

Press to unlock the lever? Gesendet von meinem TA-1020 mit Tapatalk

Your problem is not related to DCS-BIOS. Please solve it by choosing the right drivers. Gesendet von meinem TA-1020 mit Tapatalk

Now I'm some confused. Tapatalk seems to be a little bit slow. (my last post isn't arrived here yet) PS (edit): Found out, I'm too dumb to divide a common post from a PM at Tapatalk. So I copy the original Text out of the PM here. So can everyone can see the context: Hi. No. We didn't found neither a solution nor the source of this misbehave. My CDU -- even it's inactive for months now -- works at some what hybrid mode: keys and backlight are driven by RS485 while the screen works on a separate UNO by serial. So there is still a chance to earn the Nobel price by solving this phenomena. Cheers Tekkx Gesendet von meinem TA-1020 mit Tapatalk Yeah I thought so, didn't think it was a circut issue with the max chips. I had a feeling we would have to drive the cdu display via serial. Not a bid deal but when I was having the same issue and read your post I had to ask. Thank you sir! I played with the sketch a lot and couldn't figure it out. The interface or character bleed may just no jive with a 485 net. May have to hit the arduino boards and ask around. It may need a custom circuit. @Tulsa-A10: I think, it's a DCS-BIOS-specific RS485-issue. DCS-BIOS sends just altered data along the bus. So any kind of disruption or jamming (or what-ever) has enough time to change screen's content. This do not solve the mystery, because - at my knowledge this is never observed and reported before - states of LEDs and switches are not affected. Where those strange values - showed on the screen - come from... this is a little bit spooky. Meanwhile I tried several methods of shielding with absolutely no effect. The only solution - at the actual design (Sorry Ian. This is NOT a critism of your amazing work!) - could be to send the whole screen's content every few seconds. But this potentially block the bus and prevent other data's smooth flow. Conclusion: (just at my state of knowledge!) DCS-BIOS with RS-485 isn't applicative to feed screens continuously with data.

ASI? (Air Speed Indicator) Do you mean IAS? (Indicated Air Speed) - What a mess with words... A-10C has no ASI inside the code. I think (I am not an Aviator) ASI is just the device while IAS denotes the value. And IAS works fine with Helios (so I think it does with Ikarus too). But this is far away from your initial question. The answer here is: No. It can't be exported by MonitorSetup.lua.

This is made with monitorsetup.lua and Helios. RWR and MFCDs are exported bei monitorsetup.lua. I don't know Ikarus. But I remember it was a "little bit" tricky to get Helios working. Also the downside of Helios: The instruments become some blurry if zoom factor is less than 100%. Good to be seen at the engine's section.

I try to avoid such typos as I use an advanced editing program. My favorit here is notepad+ It shows (just for instance) if brackets arn't closed or too much. BTW: It's free. :)

This is hard to trouble shoot without further info. If the problem has occured suddenly it looks like a very small hickup. I encountered similar phenomena sometimes. It could be everything. Gesendet von meinem TA-1020 mit Tapatalk

Ahh. I was wondering how to defend your home with a ball-pen and a cola-can.

From my experiences I can tell you: It doesn't make sense to save money on controls. I started (just counting post millenium) with a X52. Then I replaced this with a X55 for getting more axes on the Thrust-section. Finally I took the Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS. And I tell you: I found out all my problems during flight were "control induced". The purchase itself was a "little bit" hurting. But it's worth every single of those 400 bucks. Same is with pedals: Unfortunately meanwhile I ran out of money. So I still have to wait to replace these scratchy creaky ugly Saitek plastic scrap (purchased it as a set with the X55). (Oh! If I spent the money for some good pedals instead for the X52 and X55....) As Warhog already told: If you need it (rudder), you'll really need it. The Spitfire (e.g.) is completely unmaneuverable without rudder. Just using a twist-stick you'll catch a tenosynovitis. Take-Off and Landing under crosswind is impossible without rudder. Strafing a target is impossible without accurate(!) rudder control. .... This list is incomplete ;)

We (the students, as I was young) got a bad (worst) grade if something goes pop or a fuse was blown. No matter for what reason. No negotiations! No merci!

Once upon the time I played Battlefield. We've been 4 friends and we had an appointment for BF4 (or BF3? I don't remember). I ran home from work and planned to spend this weekend with these friends (real friends in real life, no facebook or sth). I started the PC and as soon as everything was loaded (it took a while, SSD was still unknown - or unaffordable) there was a really loud BAMM (similar to a gun shot). All fuses in my flat were blown. I sat there inside a (small) cloud, looking pale (I think). PSU was blown by unknown reason. Not a cheap one, generously sized. Situation: Friday night, friends are waiting at Battlefield, local dealers are preparing for weekend. I think this has been the fastest ride by bike I ever did. I was that lucky and caught the last well sized PSU at the local shop. At the inspection later I found a broken (blocked) fan as cause for this incident.

This is what a real airplane looks like: Sorry, Keith, for borrowing this picture. Thank you for sharing and for not prosecuting. :)

Some pics look like as mum does the cleaning job.

Hallo friends. I also risked an eye to Mole's installation: There are two remarks (from my own experiences): 1. the whole installation (if I see that right) runs on 5V provided just by the USB on the MEGA. Maybe(!) this is some kind of weak. If the voltage drops too far, the Max (also: maybe) can't interprete logical level safe. Try to add somewhat of 7V to 12V to the Vin-Pin there (or to the Vin-Plug). 2. Sometimes (I never examined the reason) it depends on the order which DCS and socat have been started. One day works nothing, other day communication just runs in one direction... Good luck!

Don't zoom in very close ;) Some of the modules arn't ready yet. So the MFDs have no buttons. To the bezel of the center 18" are still to add some buttons and rotaries.

It's very close to the edge of topic, but: Everything mentioned about DCS-BIOS and A-10C is related to the DCS-World-Module A-10C. If it works (or not) with the stand alone version... I don't know. Otherwise (if I remember right) you should be able to import your License to the "World". Think I did so about 4 or 5 years ago. Just take care for "steam" or "not steam". You'll find thousends posts relating license matters herin the forum at other places.

Bad news: There is no easy way to check your transceivers. I tried it myself by checking the different voltages on the lines, checking current on the supply, I even did it with some kind of oscilloscope. To interprete these values is some kind of middle to high level science. ;) The only way (thanks to chinese copywork this way is also affordable): Kicking off suspect chips and replace them by a new one out of the box. I use SMT SO packages. As they have a pin of 1.27 mm this is some special experience. Warhog (You'll know him. He's also Canadian. Just kidding! But he is also a member of this forum so you'll know him.) instead bets on the DIL-package with plug-in sockets. So he uses just the pull-throw-and-stick method. (In military chargon it is called PUTAS!) I dont know how much chips I've burnt before I got an result. I think, I started the same way as you right now. Then I went the second step and started to develop a bullet- and fool-safe thing (as you can look at if you follow the link in my signature). Another way you have to check: Is your MEGA working proper? I observed sometimes a strange behavior of these MEGAs (may be in corelation with my very old PC): Suddenly a MEGA does not work. So I replaced it by another, brandnew one (you have to know, I have plenty of these here in a box). Few days or weeks later I gave the first, suspect failing one, a second chance: now it does the job as it has never failed before. Miracle! AND: It's like a prayer: Check your lines, check your lines, check your lines..... (and never stop that). Termination you'll just need if your overall line length exceeds about 10 m (or 30 feet). So if there is a list of suspects: Termination is the very last item on that list. Good luck. PS (edit 4 or 5): I read your last post again: Maybe it sounds stupid: Do you aware that you have to modify your Slave-script if you change from common serial communication to RS-485?

What do you expect your Fritzing-Sketch should do? First: Double(!!!)check (double means: do it minimum twice) if your real wireing is matching your sketch? Drawing a line on a paper is very different to running a wire on a desk! Second: Add some actors and actuators to your "situation". In your sketch I can't detect anything what can do a thing. There's neither a switch nor a LED to be seen. (OK. Inbuilt LEDs on MEGA and NANO will be lit or will flash.) Third: (or maybe the most important thing) Is your DCS-BIOS installed proper and is THIS doing anything? And Last (this should also be at the begin of "my" list: Have you gone through the whole procedure? Mean: Have you read the manual? I know about the very first (and maybe painful) steps in creating something that will work as intended. So: Work my (it's not really mine) list. You are very close to a success. Hint: I burned some of 10 Max487s before I got a satisfying result. So add to the list: Check hardware if working properly from time to time!!!! @Roni86: I think you mean Terminators? You won't need those for that simple test installation. Blue Skies and Happy Landings!

Your Question: No. You can't export instruments. DCS-BIOS ex- and imports just positions of switches, buttons, lamps and pots. Exception: Screen of the CDU (line by line). FPS-drop: From my POV (point of view) it isn't to blame on HELIOS. It's just the higher resolution, resulting from the extra screen where you export HELIOS to. On my system I watched a slightly drop of FPS with Facetrack. It consumes about 15 % of CPU. I antagonized this with a larger CPU. :)

Danke. Ist schon etwas her... Danke. Der Link auf das neue HELIOS hat mich gerettet. Nach einem halben Jahr Abstinenz ging hier an der Maschine garnichts mehr. Die Suche im Forum führte mich dann hier her. Warnung: Bei mir liefen die Profile danach nicht mehr auf der Vorgängerversion! Kein Problem. Man muss es nur wissen. :)

Try to increase "Res. of Cockpit Displays". I have had similar problem with the A-10C as (just? - I don't know) the Fire-Handles appeared verry blurred. I set "512" now and all is fine.

OMG! The original question has been (analogous) "Is there already a collection of all that rules..." not "How do I ...". Not a single of those squirts has really answered to him. I'm sure, Pudu knows how to use the Internet. So now is my answer here: I do not know of a work what Pudu is searching for (as I do also - so I stumbled in here). If you want to simulate real procedures there is just the hard way: Read and learn all the suggested "shit". ;) For learning all that you'll need a second life. So on one hand would be a guide - as Pudu is looking for - very appreciated. But on the other hand: DCS-World isn't the right place for that (as I've learned the painful way): ATC, JTAC, Ground- and pre-start procedures are simulated in just a simple (even sometimes wrong) way. All is sharp simplified. So those Arcade Players do not loose their fun (and can tell theire friends they fly sim). If you want to simulate real aviators life: You will have to go for a real Simulator (There are a few, I do not call the names.). DCS is called "Simulator" but if you take a closer look you'll find out it is (a very detailed modeled, but) just a game. Much to my regret as I spent a lot of time (and money) before I found out. Now I'm sitting here and try to make the best of it.

500 mA is the value of the "main" protecting (self resetting) PTC. It protects your connected PC's USB-port by preventing over current in case of a short circuit (or other incidents). Each port (no matter if PWM or not) should not loaded with more than 20 mA (40 mA for a short time). This is exactly the value of one "normal" LED with suitable Resistor. This is valid to all members of the Arduino-Family. But consider not to exceed an overall load of 150 mA. Thumb rule: If it starts smoking: It has been to much and it's too late. If you're in doubt: You don't have to be expert to read a datasheet. (GiyF! and every PDF-reader has a search tool - often to start by F3) https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/SMD/ATMega328.pdf Check out paragraph 26.2 DC Characteristics, page 313ff This should also run with the Open Beta. Checkout if you modified the script files as you did inside the release build. Last weekend I almost to despair while bringing my DCS (with Helios, external Screens, Headtracker and DCS-BIOS) back to work after half a year to be "grounded". So I know it's easy to overlook a little line of code.

Congratulations. Now this thread became finally and complete useless. Thank you, shimasteama. Thank you, gargue. ayman007: Stop to screech! Open a new thread instead. If you are pissed off now: Read (and understand) post #1 of this thread.