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Everything posted by DeadMeat

  1. OK that's fine. The point of this thread is to share my experience to serve as a guide if you're interested in doing a similar upgrade. I have no info on "fixing" the original switches. If they're broken I suggest you contact thrustmaster support or file a warranty claim if you're still covered.
  2. There seems to be some grips that have a manufacturing defect like that. Normal behaviour should be that it springs back no breaking in required. There's a few threads on it here. Returning it under warranty is probably your best choice
  3. I only have experience with the Cougar, Warthog and Hornet grips (hence the thread title ) From pictures it does look like the FLCS grip is similar internally to the Cougar however (except in plastic) and as such I would say it is unsuited for the OTTO button upgrade. See here why: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/212272-tm-fa-18c-hornet-warthog-and-cougar-grips-disassembly-and-otto-switch-upgrade/#comment-3988007 Regarding the TQS upgrade this is a good place to look https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324042/f16-flcs-tqs-original-usb-conversion I don't think OTTO transducers will fit the throttle if a PS minijoy wont fit. You can see the J2 dimensions here and measure your TQS to check: https://www.otto-controls.com/-/media/products/electromechanical-switches/transducers/j2transducerswitch/J2-Transducers-Catalog-Page.ashx Yes that trigger is a good candidate but It will not fit easily though - it is going to take major surgery on the grip. I bought one off eBay a while ago and I'm currently gathering courage to try and install it in the Warthog grip. That is exactly the difference - the push functionality. I have already shared suitable part numbers in this thread for the various hats on the Warthog grip in this very thread: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/212272-tm-fa-18c-hornet-warthog-and-cougar-grips-disassembly-and-otto-switch-upgrade/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-4510989 The clue is simply to look at the manufacturer's datasheets to decipher the part number. You cannot use the picture on mouser as it is only there as a general reference - not specific for the particular part you're looking at. Here ya go: OTTO T4 datasheet OTTO T5 datasheet OTTO mini trim button styles
  4. For anyone curios about this - the T4-T I've mentioned in the video doesn't have push. I'm not missing it since the push unused in the A10. If you really want to got the OTTO route there's a T5 hat that has push but it doesn't have tactile feedback. Alternately they have a TK-5 hat that does have tactile feedback but may not fit.
  5. No problem - thanks goes out to @Hansolo et. al for grokking these things out in the first place
  6. Have a read through this. Similar challenge was discussed I believe.
  7. Good to hear and that's a nice tip for compatibility with multiple modules.
  8. It does - I'd say most improvement is for the TDC and the EAC mag switch being sync'd with the sim. The rest of the mod mostly just adds fun "play value" and looks I guess rather than actual improved usability. Hat upgrades are way overkill for example and toggles - well the stock are pretty adequate..
  9. I had a little family extension/"upgrade" over the summer so I never got around to describing the upgrades for the throttle grips. I've had a few questions in private about them so I figured I owed some explanation about the whats and hows.. Left (outboard) grip first - this one is relatively simple to upgrade. Pinky (master lights) switch People break it all the time it seems so there a fair bit of documentation about how to replace it around here. Here it comes again then: Unfasten the mounting nut with a pair of needle nosed pliers (same approach as on the throttle panel) and unscrew the throttle side panel and pull it off. The pinkie toggle can now be removed from the side cover. It is a trivial job to scrape off the hot glue and unsolder the existing switch and solder on a replacement toggle. Take note of the colors. I had brown = common, red at keyway side, black opposite keyway. For mil spec replacement I recommend Eaton/Cutler-Hammer 8868K1 or 8869K1 (one or two pole versions) over Honeywell 11TW1-1 or 12TW1-1. The Honeywell has a very weak center hold compared to the Eaton which has very crisp positions. In the comparison below I used the 8869K9X (two pole, on-on-on) but it has identical feel to the K1. The X is the version with red seal - no "X" is black/gray seal version. Only thing is if you use a Honeywell or a two-pole Eaton you'll have to trim the lower plastic screw tower a bit to fit the larger switch body. This is easily/carefully done with an x-acto blade in small steps. Left red push button (AP engage) Best to leave the original TM push button alone but if you like the P1 feel you can definitely swap it out for that. I recommend a P1-11111 (2.5 lbf version) which is easier on your pinky or ring finger or even better a P8 version if you can get it (shorter behind the panel). Desolder/cut the original wires leaving as much length in place as possible. Push in the tabs on either side of the button body inside the grip and push the button out through the front. You may need to extend the wires a bit and stick 'em out through the hole in the front. Bend the P1 solder tabs out 45 degrees and solder on the wires. Push the button back in the hole. You'll likely need some electrician's tape and a bit of hot glue to hold it in place. Your main problem will be clearance for the upper screw tower. Picture shows an old attempt with a P1-7 but the issue the same for P1-1: The P1 back side will push right up against it (which is why the tabs had to be bent out) and the button top will protrude from the front more than the original TM switch. I find in practice that it doesn't get in the way though.. Once the button is firmly held in place you can put in the screw towers and screw the side panel back in place. Job done and happy flying. Check out the original video for the final look and feel of the upgrade: Next up will be the right (inboard) side grip which is more complicated to upgrade.
  10. Cheers - yes I swapped all of them out.. Read more here: Short story - you can swap out for mil-spec switches if you are concerned about durability. Hats and toggles alike.
  11. It's working Anybody reading the my instructions above - you can now just use the latest version. No need to change the F18 lua yourself. The sketch example I provided for inspiration still applies though if you want to use the new outputs.
  12. Cheers. Recommend you change the rest of the indicators in that block as well, except CMSD_JET_SEL_L EMERG_INSTR_INT_LT ENG_INSTR_INT_LT They're just off or full on so might as well leave them as defineIndicatorLight
  13. Don't worry, it's not easy at first. First thing - when you change your lua, you need to start a mission (any) all the way into the cockpit. This updates your reference documentation automatically, allowing you to paste the correct code snippets into your Arduino sketch. Next, quit back to main menu and load up the reference doc. Go into advanced view which will give you multiple code snippets for each switch and light allowing you to do various things. This how mine looks: Grab the code I highlighted (or the one that looks most like it) and put into your sketch. We will now have the raw value available for the intensity of the actual backlight in the sim. It runs from 0 (off) to 65535 (max). The PWM output needs to be in a range from 0-255 however, so we just need to re-map the data into a usable range with the handy "map" function. I declared a new variable at the top of the sketch for this purpose and then did the re-mapping as you can see below: Note that you will have to re-create the code with copy+paste from your own reference documentation, since I use a modified library. Yours will likely have slightly different names and addresses (highlighted in red), but I hope you get the idea For extra credit, you can play with map function to cap the upper limit if you find it gets too bright (just set it to 180 for example), or you might even want to break it into segments to have a more gradual ramp-up, like so:
  14. Short answer - yes. EDIT DCS flighpanels branch was updated. Refer to my next post for an example of how to use the new outputs.
  15. There should be a multiple-com-ports.cmd file to help connect multiple COM ports with one click: @echo off REM The COMPORTS variable should be set to a space-separated list of COM port numbers: set COMPORTS=4 5 6 7 8 9 for %%i in (%COMPORTS%) do start /b cmd /c connect-serial-port.cmd /Q %%i
  16. These patents may be of interest. They have some interesting (principle) drawings: OTTO Multiposition electrical switch OTTO trim switch Guardian electrical multi-position switch "TM alike" hat switch concept
  17. LUA references for switches sometimes change with DCS updates. The ASPJ rotary and some of the ECM toggles changed recently it seems, so check that you have the latest version of the DCS-BIOS hornet module.
  18. Looks like you've worked some pull-action hijinks into the rotary on the CMSP How is it - pull between OFF and STBY?
  19. Good to know - really curious to know how the TK switches feel. They could be more suitable
  20. Sure - here's the STL - for personal use There's cut-outs for the USB cable for the Arduino and a 2.1x5.5 mm DC power jack, like this WH_Bottom_2 v6.stl
  21. Correct - I used a T4-T (tactile version) so-called "mini-trim" hat switch so I lost the push function (not used in the Warthog anyways). Alternately I could have used a T5 (doesn't come in tactile version) - or what OTTO calls a "full-size" hat switch T5 but I don't know the part number for that (T5-####). I noticed OTTO put out a new hat switch, the TK which has tactile feedback. It may fit and it comes in both 4 and 5-way versions (i.e. with push). It'd be a shame to strip a real Viper throttle
  22. I got rid of that whole board connector and everything. It used to connect to the main PCB with a double row of pins/headers that I simply recreated with a bit of proto-board and standard 0.1" pins. All new switches on that side are connected to it. Backlight can be connected to it as well to retain standard backlight capability and control in TARGET - I however chose to route that to the Arduino instead so I could sync it with DCS BIOS.
  23. Cheers, I guess obsession will get you far For this version of the throttle I used (almost) all Eaton/Cutler-Hammer switches that I indeed found on EBay - same for the Honeywell mag switch. Toggle switches are typically USD 15-30 depending on condition (mine are all new/new old stock) while the mag switch should run you max USD 100 used if you're lucky. Push buttons are your standard OTTO P1 that are relatively cheap and can just be bought from suppliers like mouser.com - same goes for the hat switches but they're not cheap The transducer is out of a used F-15 throttle off EBay for too much $$$ to admit
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