Braeden108

I got a new PC that's running windows 11 and when I open MMJoy2 none of my controllers are recognized by it. They all work fine in windows and DCS but it's just MMJoy that's not seeing them. Any ideas?

I'm trying to understand the TGP in the F-16. All of the tutorials are beginning to be out of date, I feel. So I have a few questions. 1. What exactly do the CZ, and TGT buttons on the TGP MFD do? 2. If I acquire a target with the HAD how to I slew the TGP to it? 3. If I've locked something in point track and I want to revert to area track I press TMS aft but that will often send the TGP looking off towards my steerpoint. How do I properly return to area track? 4. How do I force the TGP to slew to a steerpoint after I've cued it somewhere else with say the HMD.

This isn't a rail. It's a pivot. Like a warthog or a cougar. Do you mean a rail like a Russian jet?

I may have found the company that produces the buttons used in the A-10/F-16's control stick. It's called Otto. Here's what's likely the trigger used. https://peerlesselectronics.com/u2-016-switch It has two detents Here's the weapon release switch possibly https://peerlesselectronics.com/ms25089-4gr-switch?utm_campaign=utm_campaign&utm_content=utm_content&utm_medium=utm_medium&utm_source=utm_source&utm_term=utm_term Just had to share.

It seems that the HAD has set the SPI and the targeting pod can't be slewed off of that point. How do I fix this? Also after this I can no longer select new targets with the HAD.

You can bind the pause command (F9 default) to your hotas. If you're having stability issues you can try increasing smoothing. I can't stand it, but you might like it.

The force of the FFB2 is good. I can just about overpower it all the time. I see no practical need for more force. I even tone it down in most aircraft. But I like lighter controls.

I've tried MS Flight Sim. FFB is not implemented. I should really try an old game like Crimson Skies.

Ram is really valuable for DCS. I've also heard that single core clock speed is more important than number of cores.

If you're home brewing a controller I highly recommend DIView. It allows you to calibrate your sticks by entering values in. It also allows you to see the raw output of your controller. It's worlds better than the windows calibrator.

I thought some of you may be interested to hear what force feedback is like in DCS since there doesn't seem to be a good post about it. I currently have the Microsoft Force Feedback and the Force Feedback 2. I've never tried any other FFB sticks other than those. I don't have every module under the sun. I've tested: F-16, F-14, A-10, M2000, Harrier, P-51, Ka-50, and the Mi-8. Firstly, I'll say if you mostly fly modern jets like the F-18 ( I assume ), F-16 basically anything other than the F-14, you probably wont benefit from force feedback. You certainly wont benefit from having fewer buttons if you're switching from a quality stick like the Warthog or VKB's offerings. The reason being the FFB in those jets is just for the trimmer. If you hold the stick firmly in place and hold the trim button you'll slowly feel the amount of force pushing the stick in a direction build. The aircraft won't move at all though. You're moving where the stick will center, which is really nice actually. You can just get your aircraft stabilized and then trim until you don't feel any force. Though, I wouldn't buy a FFB stick just to have this, but when you primarily fly helos or the F-14, it's a really nice bonus. The Tomcat:(This only applies to the MSFFB2) If you love the Tomcat, buy a force feedback stick. When the aircraft begins to depart the stick will start to shake. This means in a turn fight you can hold a max rate turn simply by feel. You pull until the stick shakes and then let off slightly. When you fire a missile and fly through it's trail the stick will shake. It's amazing. The trim functions like any other aircraft. Helicopters: As most people know, helicopters are what FFB is for. There aren't any stick shaker effects in the helicopters I've flown, but who cares. The trimmer is what we're all here for. With force feedback the "It wants to murder me" trimmer of the Ka-50 makes perfect sense. With FFB I can mash the trimmer button all day and the helicopter will remain stable. All the trimmer does is set where I want the stick to return to. I can get the helo stable and then tap the trimmer and the stick will always center there. The better thing to do is when your actively piloting the helicopter (e.g. maneuvering) you hold the trimmer. This completely gets rid of all centering forces on the stick and the stick is very loose. This makes subtle control movements really easy. Then once I'm settled back into cruise I can release the trimmer. The very very best thing about it though is, I can tap the trimmer and then immediately go hands off the stick and the helicopter will carry on what it's doing. No more massive pitch ups when you let go, and no more constantly having to hold the stick in place otherwise you crash. Warbirds: If you fly warbirds you'll love FFB. As you lose speed the controls will lighten, you also get stick shaking when you stall. I don't fly many warbirds however. MS Force Feedback vs MS Force Feedback 2 As I mentioned above, the stick shaking due to stalls and turbulence is only present with the FFB2. At least with my stick. I used a Teensy and LUFA Force Feedback to get my FFB running. I had the working trimmer for aircraft and helos but nothing else of note. For helicopters the FFB is still worth it. The MSFFB is not plug and play if its the serial port version. It took me a bit of time and effort to get it running, I wouldn't recommend it if you're not at least a little comfortable with wiring and electronics. The FFB2 is great, however it does have a gear train between the stick and the motors. I can feel the gear train and the movement of the stick is a little bit jittery. If anyone knows how to fix this please let me know. It's not really bad, but your spring sticks are going to be smoother. The FFB2 is totally plug and play. I plugged the stick in, and it worked. I didn't even install any drivers. A quick note about the FFB and FFB2. There's a photogate on the front of the stick, it's an IR LED shining on an IR detector. When you grip the stick the beam is blocked and FFB will be engaged. When you let go, the FFB is disabled and the still will be loose.

I recently got my FFB2 ($30 off shopgoodwill.com I can die happy) I upgraded from a MSFFB. The upgrade from the FFB to the FFB2 is worth it. The only things I can add that Alterscape hasn't is the functionality for planes. In most planes, I'd say the upgrade isn't worth it. Though, it's still awesome to have FFB. In most aircraft you can trim the force on the stick, so if I hold the stick in place and hold down the trimmer, the aircraft wont pitch up or down. The amount of force I feel will change, and if I let the stick move on it's own it will move to a new center. Basically that means you can move the stick to a position where the aircraft is flying level, and then trim until you don't feel any force. This is the case for all modern jets except the Tomcat. Oh boy the Tomcat. If you're like me and mostly fly helos and the Tomcat, the FFB2 is worth every penny you can pay for it. As you near a stall in the F-14 the stick starts to shake, it shakes more violently the deeper into a stall you get. So in a turn fight you can hold the jet just on the verge of a stall and get max performance turns just by feel. Also, when you hit turbulence you feel that too. When you fire a phoenix for example you'll feel the stick shake as you fly though the missile trail. Warbirds are really cool too. They're where force feedback is awesome, though I don't fly them much. In a warbird your speed affects how much weight there is on the stick. As you near a stall the controls become really light. As you stall the stick shakes.

The gun sends as much of a flash backwards as forwards. I'm not aware of any other gun that does this. Is there just so much gas that the breach is opening and sending it backwards too? Or is this to counter the recoil?

That looks great! How did the original files turn out? I modified them quite a bit for mine. I used a promicro, two actually. One runs the joystick the other run the ball mouse. I actually finished my throttle, nearly a year later haha

According to Big Newy they're modelling the new Black Shark after an experimental helicopter with tail number 25. However I can't find anything about this helicopter (In English at least). Does anyone have any resources on this particular variant?

I just got a FFB stick, a MS FFB. I'm using the adapt-ffb-joy.hex. I get a centering force effect which changes with trim. Pretty cool, pretty nice to have. Though DCS has an option for "Shake" which I never feel in any phase of flight. What effects does DCS model?

I might upgrade on the future. Gears just look cool.

I'm aiming for this to rotate 90 degrees. But I'm sure 90 degree hall sensors exists. Why did I use geared pots? Honestly because I felt like 3D printing gears. They turned out really well actually. Very smooth running. Though I realized I geared it such that when the throttle rotates 90 degrees the pot will rotate 270. No room for error. Should've done 250. And yeah haha, "not ordinary wiring" I've been bit by that before with hall sensors.

Thanks as always Sokol. The Teensy option looks good to me. That's a pretty simple circuit, shouldn't be hard to build.

They're referring to the FFB2. I'm looking for the FFB, which is older and serial.

Hey guys, I've always thought the F-16's throttle quadrant system was the coolest looking throttle. So when my brother offered to 3D print some parts for me I knew what I wanted to do right off the bat. I found this model from a nice guy on seedling. http://www.seedling.org/The_Official_Hempstick_Site/F16_Throttle.html I modified a few of the toggle switch mounts as well as designed a new MIC switch. Modelled a new mount for it as well as a full mounting system and friction block. I also wanted a few more functions on my TQS. First and foremost I'm sick of taking my hand off the stick to use the mouse, it sucks. I searched high and low for any information on the IBM trackpoints, you know the little nubbin mouse you find on thinkpads? Hens teeth. Can't find any information about them anywhere so I had to give up on the trackpoints. Luckily our favorite fruit flavored phone existed. I was able to buy a trackball mouse from Pimoroni and it runs on I2C. I've been able to hook it up to an Arduino and get the two communicating. More work is needed on it though. Hopefully I'll be able to have a nice useable mouse. The next modification is to the manual range knob. I wanted another hat on my stick so I found the coolest little device. It's an encoder, a 4 way directional hat and a push button all in one. If you look close at the range knob you can see I added an indentation. This will help me to actuate the hat switch. The last modification I made is the dedicated modifier key. I'm a big fan of modifiers in DCS so I added a toggle switch in place of the pinky switch for the afterburner. Though its not in any of the pictures. Below you can see what primer sanding and paint can do to a 3d print. Next is the mounting mechanism, friction block, and pot gearing. The friction block will have greased leather as a friction pad. There's also a stop build into it. The gearing allows me to use a 270 degree pot to get good detail out of the rotation. Could've used a hall sensor but, didn't. I'm pleased with how the finish turned out, must've been 4-5 coats of black enamel paint. Next up is the long process of wiring the thing. Should be fun.

I've been trying to get my hands on a MSFFB2 stick but all the auctions get sniped and the $130 ones on ebay are a bit much for me. I would love to get my hands on one but I'm realizing that might not be possible unless I drop some serious cash. MSFFB's on the other hand are cheap. The issue is they're serial not USB. I'm studying electrical engineering so I can handle any pixie wrangling. I already plan to modify the stick heavily with an extension and grip replacement. So have any of you ever tried rewiring a MSFFB?

I do my start up as normal. Ground power, air, left engine crank, bump throttle Left engine starts. Right engine crank, bump throttle and nothing. It just spins and never starts. This is in a fresh aircraft If I switch aircraft I have the same issue even if I start with the right engine. Other people report the same issue.

Here's his code https://www.dropbox.com/s/ubi64ep3bxwik65/f14_ard_0.ino?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/74emog0lrswgnaq/f14_ard_1.ino?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/le4e8yy7ma7ed8v/f14_ard_2.ino?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9v0rm9reirwu5u9/f14_mega.ino?dl=0 I'll point him in this direction as well

Hi, A friend of mine is having speed issues with inputs. He currently has 30 analog inputs to DCS bios running at 1024 each. It takes 10 seconds for a input to register. We're trying to drop that down to 8 bits or lower if possible. But I have no experience with DCS BIOS. Thanks for the help