Headwarp

My profile picture says it all.

You should have a good time Buzz. Enjoy.

Sounds like you know what you want to do. I just went from a 34" 3440x1440 ultrawide that was honestly kind of a pita when it came to first person shooters. The lack of vertical height paired with 1440 resolution resulted in a smaller targets and my minimap and radar in a shooter or something would be too far off to the side due to the horizontal FoV. Comparatively, things look huge on my 32" 2560x1440 monitor because the monitor is taller with the same vertical resolution and I do not miss the horizontal FOV. It's been good experience, but, it's also a pretty expensive monitor. This likely would apply to black specs against the sky at a distance as well. I fly with the bucket on my head though. My monitor IS an MSI monitor at 165Hz though and that much has been awesome in shooters. I'll say that.

t's like I said. It's up to you. Just sharing what information I can. I was mostly just giving something to compare your options to pricewise. I think you'll be fine. I'm still running win 10 myself but.. I think your new rig will be fine. I have a 32" freesync mointor from MSI that works with nvidia's g-sync settings. It wasn't cheap but 32" @ 2564x1440 @165hz is pretty sweet IMO. The 27" g-sync compatible version is a little less expensive and probably still a great monitor.

lol. Unless you are a looking for the absolute best chances of achieving extreme overclocks, many prebuilt systems will probably suit you just fine. Store bought warranties usually come with less hassle, but at $2k-$3k be prepared to pay a couple to a few hundred dollars for it. Manufacturer warranties are generally good for at least 1 year. Though, it might be worth researching who has the fastest turn around time should you encounter issues. Any respectable retailer you order from should have you a pre-paid label if it's DOA or if you run into a defect within the return period. In that regard, like I said in decades of personal computer building and use, i have sent ONE component in for RMA. I could've returned it to Newegg as it arrived DOA. It was an EVGA GPU and they had a replacement out to me within a couple days of receiving the defective gpu. If it had been Asus? I'd have just sent the thing back to Newegg. That being said... I've owned numerous Asus motherboards and they've ALL worked. I've otherwise not had issues out of my computer components that weren't caused by abuse or neglect lol. In the cases of neglect, it was usually just a matter of cleaning or replacing my heatsink. I've had to replace a couple PSU's back when I had a cat. Cat hair is a killer. Last thoughts. DCS MP may call for more than 32GB of ram depending on some factors. I just installed a 64GB kit yesterday and so far, it seems to have cleared up some stuttering on certain runways. I haven't seen my ram usage above 32GB. But I have seen it hit 32GB. Being only a couple days into it.. I can't be 100% certain its not placebo or that I won't be proven wrong. But.. certain runways on busy servers were causing some stutters and I have not experienced that since doubling up on my ram. Also, while I have talked myself out of pressing the button on a 3090 so many times since finding out they've in stock because I fly in VR and want all the help I can get.. if you click on my spoiler in my signature you'll see I'm still running a 2080TI and having a good time with it. My reason for mentioning it was simply if I were your neighbor I could build you a system with all that VRAM and DRAM for about what you're talking about price wise on a pre-built. None of us can tell you what to do. I can only tell you what I'd do.

If it works for you it works for you. I mean.. If I really tried I could find parts to build a $3000 pc with similar specs. For me personally, that I could get more ram and a GPU with double the VRAM for not much more if build it makes the build the winner for me personally, regardless of warranty. Each component at least has a 1 year manufacturer warranty. One thing to consider, is that the benefit of a best buy store front is just the ease of being able to drop off returns as the local store front. If you're willing to eat shipping costs if a return is for any other reason than a defect, their protection plans are still the only ones I almost always buy on items I'm worried about. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?_dyncharset=UTF-8&browsedCategory=pcmcat287600050002&id=pcat17071&iht=n&ks=960&list=y&qp=graphicscardsv_facet%3DVideo Card~NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti^graphicscardsv_facet%3DVideo Card~NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080^graphicscardsv_facet%3DVideo Card~NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090^systemmemoryram_facet%3DRAM~32 gigabytes^systemmemoryram_facet%3DRAM~64 gigabytes&sc=Global&sp=%2Bcurrentprice skuidsaas&st=categoryid%24pcmcat287600050002&type=page&usc=All Categories Personally, looking at the listings above.. while they are weird brands like CLX, IBUYPOWER, CyberPowerPC, Skytech.. there are a few with simlar specs that would come out to like $2700-$2800 WITH the protection plan that you may never end up needing. The other thing to consider is that, if you're okay with spending that kind of money the thought could be behind you soon enough. I'm not saying Best Buy is the only vendor worth shopping from by any means.

If you live in the US, can afford the experiment, and live near a Best Buy they accept returns on just about anything up to 15 days. If they don't have it in stock locally, order it online. Return it to the store. Eat the shipping cost if you find it doesn't give you an improvement, you won't have to pay return shipping if you can drop it off at a store front location. I'm on day 2 of having my kit and so far it seems like an improvement. I can't promise you'll experience the same. I'm still questioning whether it's all in my head even though I feel like having the headroom has offered a smoother experience. I was having a pretty good time on a full GS earlier spawning in at Kutaisi, 60fps on the ground 75-80 while flying at 150%SS in my Index. an FPS drop here and there but none of the stuttering. I list all my specs including display in my signature not for bragging rights but because there's a lot to consider when talking about performance bottlenecks and ymmv. Okay.. my peripherals are kind of bragging rights but still.

I just put together a wishlist with a similar build @ newegg and got 64GB of ddr5 4800 and a 1000w PSU and my total is $2,057 before any tax or shipping. I did not add a keyboard or a mouse, but frankly my $60-$70 logitech options have been the best purchase I've ever made. They run on batteries and they last quite awhile. No more plugging things in. Knowing that, it's up to you to decide if the convenience of a prebuilt system is worth that much more money, with less ram. The $700 saved on a system with more ram could get you a 3090 when you consider the cost of the 3080, and the PSU to run everything overclocked or a VR headset or something to that extent. If you can get behind installing the hardware yourself and setting up your BIOS and installing windows and all your drivers on your own. I could further reduce costs of my theoretical build if I wanted to. I would probably be griping and complaining the whole time I was putting it together and figuring out cable management though. I'm sure it would be a fine rig either way. *oops.. i forgot cooling.. new screenshot incoming, found a refurb h150I for $130. New price is $2,188. Closing the gap but still a considerable chunk of change while offering more ram of which the worth is subjective and personal opinion, and still not being terribly more expensive than your prebuilt if you were to swap the 3080 for a 3090. I want to suggest that maybe there's somebody who'd put it together out there if you pay him $100 or something and you'd still be saving money, but, I'm in a valley. Not on a mountain. Cry once buy once might be the way to go. For me building is like putting together a lego set. My friend with his pre-built, it was either that or I build it for him and I sometimes forget my familiarity could be considered the exception. Other food for thought - didn't see a motherboard model number on the prebuilt. It's not hard to close the gap if you start fishing for higher end components. if one wants to, there are $300 keyboards and mice out there. I gave up the flashy lights myself and have found the best bang for my buck in a logitech G613 + G603.

I think what you're describing still sounds more practical.

My 64GB kit arrived today and I parked on the airfield that hits me the hardest. My FPS still tanked to the 30's here and there but I loaded in faster, and so far it does seem like it's a smoother experience overall. I haven't personally seen afterburner report more than 32GB usage but, I have seen it use at least that much. This was on a completely full growling sidewinder with MSAA 2x enabled. I was at 45fps 99% of my flight at least. I'm starting to debate how much I'm being affected by having only 12GB of VRAM at this point.. but that's another thread. Going to play around with settings, msaa on/off and see how that goes. *Edit* i turned off MSAA and bumped my SS% in the index to 150% and while the problematic airfields still had me lower than I'd like... in just about any other case on the ground I was at 75fps, I'd see a spike in the 60's occasionally. But once I had any altitude I was hitting 80FPS with the headset set to 80hz. While I did experience typical issues that low fps in VR might cause, the gameplay was smoother. I feel like I can confidently say going to 64GB has improved my experience in DCSW MP.

IF (big if) you can find an 8th gen or 9th gen K series for a low enough price and overclock it (not that hard to do.. countless guides) you could probably extend the life of that system for another year or two at least. I don't know how functional the H370 Aorus is in that regard though. That being said.. most of what I can find listed is high. I'd still be running on my 8700K that handled 4.9ghz with no problems but I had like the worst series of brain farts I could have and damaged my socket. I was attempting something prepared to replace the CPU if I failed, but, ended up having to rebuild my system. I had it at 5.0ghz for awhile but backed it down for more comfortable temps, as it took a considerable voltage boost from 4.9 to 5. My more recent build is what I could find locally at Best buy, and while it's handling 5.1ghz on all cores like a champ and even lets me lower the voltage for a less of an AVX offset, it's really not offering much for gaming and dcs compared to my 8700K. The ryzen releases that came out at the same time and 12th gen could offer an improvement over both but if you find a good enough deal on an unlocked cpu for your existing board it could be a good bang for your buck, provided the h370 chipset allows for overclocking.

My buddy got a decent pre-built at our local Best Buy. Personally if a prebuilt is a must I like this route if you live near a store front, as Best Buy's protection plans are generally hassle free. If something goes wrong they can't fix, even if you broke it, if it's covered they replace it and you can buy another year of protection for that. That's on most items anyway. I'd read up the specifics or ask them in store about protection for a PC. If they don't have what you in stock but they do online, you can handle returns and warranty issues at the local store. Personally I signed up for totaltech when I bought my last phone, as it was basically free because they also applied a $200 discount to my phone. Everything I've purchased since is covered. I put a ding on my phone's screen they'll replace it. I bought a Monitor a week or two ago, because I'm a member I have a 60 day evaluation period. In the past, I had them replace a set of high dollar logitech headphones like 4 times before I finally decided I wanted something less prone to failure. It was like getting a new set of headphones for $15 or some other small amount of money. Myself, I'm not a huge fan of Dell owning one of their laptops. It likes to insist install a particular piece of software that is a bit of a resource hog that is there to make updating drivers easier. HP, Toshiba, in general not my go to. I build my own personally, but my buddy's rig isn't horrible. Of course.. that's if you're in the US.

I figure there is likely a way to edit an lua file to accomplish what I want. I've copied and pasted a line or two before for another mod at some point I think. I'll take a look at the injector and see if I can make it do what I need. Thanks.

Thanks but I don't need a tutorial about modifiers, I fully understand how that works. I also have enough buttons around my pit that I shouldn't need one. I have a perfectly fine momentary toggle switch I'd like to use for this purpose without a modifier. What would be cool though is if Razbam added a cycle option for the H20 switch, like there is for the flaps and like other devs do for their 3 position switches because they understand there are multiple input devices on the market. This is me letting them know it's missing.

as cool as the ultra wide 3440x1440 monitor setup is.. the vertical height is actually pretty tiny. My Predator X34 fell of my monitor stand and destroyed itself recently and I replaced it with a 32" 2560x1440 monitor and in general while I have less horizontal FOV things appear larger on my screen due to the increase in vertical height. As resolution increases and screen size decreases you end up with sharper images which also translates to black specs in the distance being harder to see. For flight simming, I fly in VR, and the black smudges at a distance are much easier to see. If I zoom they're harder. Other than that, it's an acquired skill, spotting virtual aircraft.

Don't have 3 pos switch. Don't want to use 3 buttons. Don't want to use my mouse. Up/down option needed please and thanks, Razbam.

This is really all a matter of personal taste. I mean yes, higher framerates and refresh rates result in smoother gameplay. Some don't notice it. Me I notice the difference between 60fps at 60Hz vs 75FPS @ 75Hz. My latest monitor purchase gives me 165Hz jumping up from 100Hz and for games that I play with a monitor, the result is a more fluid game both visually, and in response to inputs. But, DCS World is not a first person shooter where once you've reached a certain skill cap the only way to improve is through decreasing your response time through high fps gameplay. Even in that case, I used to put kids to shame on 60Hz screens. If you have time to react to a missle flying at you, the visual fluidity and quicker input response times aren't going to be what decides whether or not you survive the encounter. You've got a much higher learning curve ahead of you and dying is all part of the learning experience. So, aim for the best visual quality you can achieve while offering gameplay that is smooth enough for you to enjoy it. Myself, I fly in VR and have to live with quite a few compromises in image quality to make that work, but it's awesome.

Not deleted. Just moved.

It's been months since I stopped to check in on DCS... I'm getting way better performance on MP servers in VR than I was the last time I played. I'm able to get away with 120hz/60fps with the index @ 150% ss. If I run at native res I've seen 80-100 in the couple of cockpits I've tried and I can turn motion smoothing off. I also have the option of plugging in the old samsung Odyssey and setting it to 60hz with 150% SS and getting 60fps with no form of reprojection..perhaps more I haven't put much effort into fine tuning my system yet. And this is just sitting on the runway. Should get better with altitude. I know this thread is a little old at this point, but I've been gone for awhile and I'm having a much better experience than I was with DCS for awhile there before I took a break. I don't know if it was this particular patch mentioned or when things started improving but I would join an MP server and get framerates down in the 30s in VR. So it's like I've doubled up since I've been gone. Took the Apache for a spin. Slightly off topic but Virpil updated their software and firmware for my throttle that lets me get rid of Joystick Gremlin. I think I'll end up seeing some of you in the virtual skies. Good stuff.

Worst case scenario the MCU has to be replaced and thankfully, the design makes it easy to swap. If you bought them new, they should still be under warranty. If you bought them used it's a $40 part. Don't give up on Milan.. he's going to rule out the basics but he's always gotten me sorted.

How you feeling about them? Did I fail you?

You have to install the drivers for the cougar MFD's and make sure the left is "1" and the right is "2". https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/unified_drivers/2018_FFD_2.exe When the drivers are installed, and you open the mfd's in USB game controller settings in windows it should look like this. I've highlighted the area where to set them. This doesn't require target. Just the drivers from thrustmaster. To get there type "USB Game Controllers" without quotes in Cortana, it should bring up the appropriate app and your devices should be listed there. When set correctly it should list them as two separate devices "F16 MFD 1" and "F16 MFD 2" Make sure they aren't both set to the same thing. If you've done this, then be worried, if you haven't, then this is likely your issue. You say you've had them several years. So maybe a button's wearing out. I hope not. Spray some compressed air in there maybe.

Replying to a couple month old thread but um.. Has anybody else caught that he has trim set to default? "Default" is for use with Force Feedback. With an MSFFB2 when you trim, the stick stays where you put it, and has no spring forces while the trim button is held in an attempt to mimic a real magnetic force trim system found in helicopters like the Ka-50, or the Huey or many other helicopters flying around the world today. I'm pretty sure the Gazelle has this functionality IRL even if P-chop borked the FFB implementation. not being a real pilot that's just my best guess though. If you're not using a FFB stick, and have a spring loaded stick that returns to center, you need to select the appropriate trimming method which will have the word "Center" in it. Each time you trim you have to let the stick return to center to regain control of the aircraft. Unlike a FFB stick, or maybe a stick that has dampeners to keep it in place, where you just set it and leave it.

Yeeouch. Still.. rest assured, you just got some of the best pedals on the market. I personally haven't seen any negative reviews about them.. most reviews are highly positive, and the people I've suggested them to that ended up buying a set are usually pretty blown away with what they get. You're going to enjoy your new pedals.

I just wanted to add to this thread that the VKB rudder pedals aren't a bad option either. They totally slipped my mind. They don't have toe brakes, but you can get by with out them if you don't mind tapping buttons. before I got the gunfighter I was tapping a button in aircraft that didn't utilize aircraft because it was awkward just using one pedal. Tapping a button is doable. Having both is definitely nice. Either choice is hard to go wrong. It might be worth a DIY'ing something to mount the Crosswinds to that expands the bass and keeps it against a wall. piece of wood with some cheap carpet to protect your floors and walls. The spring resistance goes from nothing to leg day OP, so do be sure if your chair has wheels that you have a way of stopping them from rolling. Before I went crazy on my simpit I used a piece of plywood that I also mounted the pedals to that I'd cut two holes into that I'd roll the wheels of my chair into. In hindsight, my pedals were too close to me and it wasn't great for my back. The Crosswinds are best hardmounted, but if you keep both feet on them and keep them against the wall using the spacers they should be fine. some simple ideas for a more stable platform that wont tip if you for some reason are only using one foot, stealing from google images PVC pipe, foam, slab of wood, bolts. Slab of wood and bolts.. frankly I'd put some carpet or some rubber pads that keep it off that ground and perhaps protect your walls.