Headwarp

I love my x34. If you're running AMD i'd totally recommend LG's 21:9 34" UWHD. I would have chosen them over my Acer x34 if it supported g-sync rather than freesync.. not that I think it would still be less expensive than the g-sync alternatives but because that LG monitor had some really nice features that the Predator series doesn't include. That being said.. being an nvidia user I totally went with x34 and do not regret it one bit. MAJOR improvement from my 27" 1080p asus monitor with better color and gamma management.

Nevermind.. I'll leave this up here for anybody with the evo force to use for tips or to continue trying to get it working...but my MSFFB2 just showed up and omg what a difference.

Bumping this thread with new info hoping someone can help me out. What I've ended up doing is going to a dual boot system, where I can boot into win7 pro 64bit. Having done so - in win7 the Evo Force installs drivers and tests force feedback functions everything works great. No crashes in the joystick testing page like from win10. However it feels like the stick is always using return to center mode. I've disabled default spring in the windows properities.. set default/damper gain to 100%, spring gain to 38% as recommended in very old threads. I've run forcetest.exe and FFB functions are working there..using "constant force" i can get the stick to stay in different positions/directions. (i understand blackshark doesn't seem to give this stick full force hence why people remove the physical spring) When I try to load DCS ka-50 however, it's still stuck in centering mode. I have tried swapping axis, swapping back, adjusting the force levels and "Force feedback" box is checked in the misc options. I've unplugged all of my other peripherals aside form KB/mouse and the stick just wants to return to center when I trim. I'm currently downloading and installing il-2 bos to see if it's just DCS or other sims in general.. and while I've read up and understand I might need to disable the physical spring to get best results in blackshark 2, before attempting that I'd like to see the force trim work in game. I've seen youtube videos showing the stick not staying exactly put, however the force trim is still causing it to stay left or right or whereever they trim.. mine just goes back to center.. the motors just want to center the stick.. making it work like a standard center spring non-ffb stick. Any ideas on why DCS isn't treating my ffb stick like an ffb stick? *EDIT* - fully functional within IL-2 BOS. In win7. . Im going to try other modules within DCS World (FW-190) to see if it could be that I need to reinstall DCS.. maybe it's some registry settings I'm missing. - on another note.. experiencing FFB for the first time in IL-2 kinda blowing my mind. I couldn't see myself going back to flying with the extreme 3d pro for prop planes. I'll prob still use the trusty warthog for fly-by-wire like f-15c and probably even still use it in the a-10c... but I think I'm going to have to stick with FFB for say..the su-27, or any prop or bi plane.. and if i can get it working holding its place with force trim..choppers. **Edit** Attempted it with the Dora, no FFB... just centering forces. No shakes on guns fired.. no shakes on stall.. going to attempt to install on a different harddrive..see if it inputs registry entries or perhaps an installation of directx will cure my woes. A fresh install did nothing...didn't have to reactivate installed modules either so Im thinking maybe the old data from dcs is still there...perhaps its .lua files?

Update - So.. for some reason I decided to run the driver installation software for windows 8 64bit.. and it gets to the joystick properties screen and the FFB functions actually work! Darn stick almost rattled itself off of my platform. But.. that's the extent of getting to see this stick perform. If I try to do it through windows control panel it goes back to crashing the moment i press a button to test the FFB. And in DCS: BS2 it just doesn't work. It always returns to center after attempting to trim. Now if I could just figure why it can function from the Driver installer software opening my controller properties but not when I go to usb game controllers via control panel..and not in DCS... I'd have my first FFB stick for force trim working >.<

So worth it. But as my control setup had no other form of rudder I had to get a cheap stick with twist until they showed up. Milan patiently put up with my questions through the entire process. Things are amazing.. period the end. You will not beat these with any of the "namebrand" pedals out there. The Slaw Device and BRD pedals will compete with.. and may even perform as well or better for all I know.. but I couldn't be happier with the crosswinds... I doubt I'll ever need another set of pedals for the rest of my life. Milan is a quality businessman as well. Extremely courteous and quick to reply. Seems like he may be shipping them out faster now than he was when I was ordering them.

I practically begged these guys in emails to build this design. They did it.. now I have to come up with some cash to order one like I promised.

So, thank you sim world I've added more joysticks to my setup. I was browsing ebay and picked up an msffb2, and then not much later I stumbled across a NEW IN BOX saitek cyborg evo force for $30 and figured "what the heck?". My msffb2 hasn't arrived yet.. but the evo force got here and confirmed by what I'm reading..it seems like windows 10 64bit doesn't like the stick. It''s a shame because upon using it..it does seem pretty much like a brand new stick, and I know the force feedback motors are working because it's limp until I plug it in, and then it has a centering force. Anybody using this stick got it working in windows 10? If so how? I've tried the "'registry hack" after manually installing the windows 8 64-bit drivers. If I try to test it in the windows control panel with the "test force feedback" option checked however it crashes as soon as I hit a button that would trigger a force feedback test. I've also tried just hopping into the ka-50 but the force feedback is stuck on centering mode. The stick works..the button presses work in the game but FFB just doesn't seem to be working..and wants to act purely as a centering stick. I guess long story short.. anybody successfully using these sticks still? I mean..i knew it was a gamble when I bought it off ebay.. but if I can make this thing work... it'd be nice. As even though my msffb2 is on the way.. I'd kind of rather use the saitek until it dies and THEN pull out the ffb2. I've seen youtube videos of people flying the ka-50 rather well with this stick. I'd love to be able to use it.

I will consider filling out an application and appreciate the reply. I'm not certain I'm looking to join a squadron as I have no interest in any specific vehicle. That being said you're the only one to reply, so I am likely to give it a shot. Beats flying alone.

Things I have access to - IL-2 1946, IL-2 COD, IL-2 BOS, Falcon BMS, and the following modules for DCS World: FC3, A-10C, fw-190, p-51d, ka-50, uh-1h. Not saying I'm good but comfortable flying - pretty much any fc3 jet, a-10c, any german prop plane. I at least have some extent of understanding RWR interpretations, and the use of most of the sensors available on the included planes. Non german wwII props I am pretty much guessing on CEM, with the ultimate goal of low heat/fuel usage outside of combat. Struggling with - Formation flight (throttle control, who and how to follow in combat) Spotting/identifying targets visually.. stuff I think only experience can teach me, and there's only so much I feel like I can learn trying to form on the wing of AI in il-2 1946 or Falcon BMS, since they're the only two that allow non flight lead positions in their SP components. Not trying to promote other sims on the ED forums, but, I will fly pretty much anything within the sims I own (not very keen on wwII bombers.. I like fighters) - I'm not limited to DCS. Let me be your future Iceman? (because right now im basically a cadet) Best way to get my attention is to add HeadwarP on steam. I should be the only one. I'm US EST timezone, with a lot of free time and often oddly kept hours.

The issue described in your OP sounds like a wire contact issue or a short. Could be the pot went bad but having replaced the pots on one of my bass guitars.. the old dirty ones still worked.. they were just noisy and replacing them seemed easier than cleaning old dirty pots and probably provided better results. Might be worth checking the soldering jobs.

Are you making sure the LED's are centered with the camera in the TiR software? I wear a delan clip on the right side of my head.. so my TIR 5 camera is on my right as well on top of the monitor. Try tilting your hat/headset forward backward or even change the angle of your clip so that when you look down one end of the clip isn't blocking the middle LED. It can be a little frustrating but as long as I make sure I'm centered and my headset/clip is at the right angle you should be able to look around the cockpit smoothly.

I apparently did misunderstand you then. My apologies. Sounds as if it functions similar to adding a button for a shift state which is what I was describing.

It's like a 3-4 month wait time once you place the order and he doesn't bill you until it's ready to ship. The wait drove me crazy but only because I didn't have much else for rudder input at the time. If you look at the MFG review thread still on the first page you can see it seems like he's pretty busy making these things based on the serial numbers.

From what I remember, if you set a modifier in SST software, it can only be used as a modifier regardless of what mode. I don't use saitek anymore so I can't go play around to verify.. Imo it's easier to set a modifier from within DCS, and the pinky trigger was/is my favorite. Then again I did use the SST software to make the mousenub control slew in DCS, and turn my rotaries into buttons.

So, many years ago I bought a Logitech g13 for playing WoW. 24 programmable g-keys.. + thumbstick that is programmable for keystrokes as well. My hands aren't tiny or anything and I find it comfortable. I've contemplated using it for cdu inputs and the scratchpad or whatever it is under the hud in the a-10c. No room for a second keyboard here.. but perhaps a programmable corsair keyboard minus the numpad? I bought a new keyboard - Strafe RGB, not knowing anything about it after spilling a drink on my 710+ and killing it. To my surprise.. it started doing a light show like someone fed it hallucinogens when I installed the software. And further to my surprise.. every single key on the thing is programmable. I was disappointed about having no RWin key but i was able to program it to the application menu key. You could easily bind Ctrl+alt+q to any key on either one of these two devices. Or even bind CTRL+ALT to one key and place keys without modifiers on the rest. I'm not sure about my corsair yet, but I know my g13 has 3 modes which gives me at least 80 possible buttons. G13 takes up less space.

I gave them some love. I recommended them for what's widely available and affordable even though I have no experience with them. Reason being - I not seen too many complaints about them aside from how narrow they are. Oh...and there's always Go Flight, but that was out my price range,

Yeah. Everybody should read that little instruction sheet that comes with it. the never use windows control properties to calibrate, only the MFG software, and to calibrate toe brakes after adjusting pedal angle, important stuff afaik.

Saitek pedals/ch pedals are plastic. Personally... i completely snapped the right pedal off the base of my Saitek Proflight pedals, mostly just from being retarded and stretching my legs. They will do the job if you're careful with them...but beware jittery potentiometers, and them being downright noisey (downstairs neighbors might not like you.) The pots can be cleaned but it takes disassembling the pedal assembly.. and you need to be careful unscrewing screws as the things are just plastic. Doing so may void any warrenty While more expensive, Slaw Device, VKB T-rudders (no toebrakes), or MFG Crosswinds (mine showed up today and blow saitek/ch out of the water). Slaw/crosswinds come with a bit of a wait but use hall sensors. If you're looking to spend $200 or less for something that just works.. I'd personally recommend CH because I don't hear many complaints about any of their products where as Saitek has some known quality issues that i've experienced first hand with more than just my pedals.. that being said the saitek pedals will probably have a wider stance. If you've got anywhere from $300-$500 to spend and don't mind a long wait MFG Crosswinds/Slaw device might be the way to go. Slaw device is metal.. likely durable.. Crosswinds composite.. I think mine will still be functional a decade and more from now. Any of the 3 more expensive sets will have greater accuracy and a smoother turn radius than the plastic stuff, but again, my saiteks were doing the job before i broke them.. even if the toe brakes were really jittery/spikey and offered nowhere near the smoothness of Milan's beautiful Crosswinds. If you're ok with your twist stick, no you don't NEED rudders.. you can still fly pretty much anything with a twist stick.. what you bring to the table with rudder pedals, even saitek/ch pedals is added accuracy and precision. Twist stick is generally a smaller axis, or at least the method for turning is smaller, making small precise movements more difficult than they would be with any set of pedals, in the same way an extension on an xbox controller "adds to accuracy" by causing larger ranges of motion from your thumb to be smaller control inputs. If you plan on flight simming a lot as a hobby, pedals are immersive, and easier to fly with. If you only do it from time to time and spending $120 or more is a strain on you, you might be able to live without them.. either way don't expect to immediately be an expert with them if you purchase them, but you will get more control than you would a twist stick. And certain planes take advantage of having toe brakes on an axes.

Out for delivery! Unfortunately to my parents house..where there may be no one home when the mailman comes. For U.S. Crosswind owners, DPD uses USPS once in the U.S. correct? Kind of hoping they'll just leave it on the porch rather than a notice. *edit* scratch that...just went and picked them up and put them together. First impressions? without even plugging them in you can feel how superior they are to anything saitek puts out.. I can't speak for CH because I have no experience with them but I imagine these things are smoother. Milan's centering cam is a beautiful design, it is very smooth, and the only thing that makes noise really, and that's only if you aren't being extremely gentle. Having been using my slew nub on my warthog as rudder in jets and barely using any rudder in the a-10c before now, and even using a cheap stick w/ twist for prop planes/heli's - spending 2 minutes flying an a-10c with these things and I already see how much my flying is about to improve just due to the ability to make the slightest rudder inputs. Toe breaks have great tension. I'm so glad I went for these things rather than another set from saitek. No jitters. I might adjust the toe break angle to be more in line with gas/break pedals in a car for comfort..but otherwise.. these are very very lovely. To make it easier for slicker since I've given this information over several posts Ordered - Jan 14th, 2016 Received- April 15th, 2016 Serial# - 1952

The design is good.. the tension is good.. the materials and lack of attention to detail that causes sticktion for many users including myself is bad. Having to take this thing apart to apply a better grease and possibly sand out rough edges/too snug/fits. People use extensions.. some have broken the gimbal attaching their extensions. But if their next expensive designer stick has the plethora of "sticktion" post that the hawg has I'll be doing my best to pre-order from VKB personally within the next few years. So, doubting TM will ever see this post.. I'm just saying. I'd love it if they'd fix the only flaw I can find with my warthog, and maybe include this technology with future hogs on the market, if continued. It' all speculation until they announce their products anyway. :)

quite frankly I'm hoping if they do release an f-18 stick that they'll improve upon/replace the plastic gimbal in the warthog stick...and that my warthog stick is compatible with it.

No sir, we haven't. Hence I said stranger. ;) Updating thread to say my serial #'s = 1952

Alright. The Axes for vive/rift are unassignable in the DCS world controls menu. Got you. Thank you for looking at you controls menu and verifying that.

I'm not talking about adjusting turn rates/curves like you would in TrackIR software. (or adjusting curves at all.) I'm talking purely about the the axis controls menu within DCS world guys...

How am I derailing a thread by asking question about VR in a thread asking about VR? Specifically about the zoom function which was brought up by another poster..not me. Maybe it would've better question to ask - Are the headtracking axes for vive/rift listed in the axis menus like TrackIR would be (within the game menus)6? Like..I can go into the menus and see TrackIR_Z, TrackIR_X, TrackIR_Y etc. IF yes, is there an axis bound to "zoom axis" in the axis controls listed under "vive/rift"? (right next to joystick/keyboard) If so, has anybody TRIED changing it like I do my TrackIR axis so that my zoom keybinds work? lol. I'm pretty sure I didn't use the word bug. The answer to my questions requires someone who owns a headset to look at the "axis" portion of their controls menu and simply requires a yes/no to clear me up. edit* i've added screenshots of controls at default, controls where zoom won't work other than leaning forward/backward with trackir, and controls where leaning forward still controls head movement, but I also am able to use keybinds or physical zoom axis to control zoom using trackir. It's really asking if headtracking works the same or not by allowing you to assign axes like you would any other joystick, and like you already can the trackir axes. http://imgur.com/a/IkziL *edited to clarify that I'm simply talking about binding axes you would keys in the controls menu within the game*