GSS Rain

I had a similar problem where the valve index would launch in desktop mode when launching in multithread, even though I was using the force stream VR command in the shortcut. Also tried force OpenXR in the shortcut. The game valve index works fine in single thread. What fixed it for me was that the OpenXR runtime was Windows Mixed Reality (did not work). I opened SteamVR and clicked on settings, then the developer tab, and the saw that SteamVR was not the runtime. It was Windows Mixed Reality. So I selected SteamVR from this menu, and rebooted PC just to be sure. Now DCS works in multithread with the Valve Index. I think DCS launches in VR when forcing OpenXR or SteamVR. In other threads, they say use OpenXR in the shortcut command when using the Valve Index. My issue was that I have more than one PC and several head sets including the pimax, valve index, and hp reverb g2. At some point in time I think the hp reverb g2 changed the settings in SteamVR and I didn’t realize that the runtime was not SteamVR.

I didn't use the SA-19 that much. I had the radar on/off hot key mapped and I can see the sweep beam turning on and off. Squeezed the trigger and fired a few rounds from the gun. But didn't have target locking keys or weapon switching mapped. Toe when unpressed is like applying the brakes. Can't remember if 20% press gets you moving or not. I think so. I like that even though you are in the gunner's seat, you can still steer and move the vehicle with the driver's controls. So I have toe brake axis and rudder axis mapped for movement and also Trim Hat buttons mapped as well for turn left/right and move forward/reverse. Sometimes your ankle gets tired holding the gas down so I use the trim hat. Also in a fire fight with AI insurgents swarming the Hummer, you need to run and gun at the same time so glad you can move the vehicle and shoot back too at the same time. One issue I have is sometimes the vehicle starts moving forward without me pressing the gas or hitting the hat switch. Not sure what is causing that. So I mapped the hand brake to the HOTAS throttle airbrake button. The side that is latching so I set the hand brake then I don't have the movement problem. Then unset it when it's time to roll out. I have Winwing HOTAS setup and Razer Tartarus Pro keypad. Also have a wireless xbox gamepad controller and DCS recognizes that and will allow you to assign it as control inputs. I have room behind the throttle to place the xbox controller when not in use but still debating if I want to assign any DCS keymaps to it.

This is major good news. If you create a multiplayer mission and select the game master slot, from there you can jump into a jeep or hummer. From there, I would like the players (my team) to drive to the airport while in VR because driving in combined arms is awesome now with this fix. We can properly sight see London or Vegas or some other big city on the way to the airport. You know, create a kneeboard map with confusing directions to the airport like you get in real life. Is there a way to initiate a trigger zone to load a script where it auto loads the player into the cockpit when you get to your destination point? That way you don't have to break the emersion by hitting escape and then selecting an airplane slot to jump in.

Just tried this again in VR (DCS 2.7.1.6430 Open Beta) and this has been fixed now. The head movement axis is now in sync. If you turn your head left, the view rotates left. So ED has been making big improvements for Combined Arms in VR. It’s still a work in progress though. Jumping in the driver seats in a Hummer was amazing. Your VR head aligns with the drivers head and you see his body along with the passenger and top gunner. I assigned accelerator pedal to the rudder toe brake axis and steering to the rudder channel. Was having a blast driving. The gunner on top was completely usable. I assigned the gun movement to the joystick axis. So you can move the gun independently from your VR head. Just hit your center view hot key if you want to look down the barrel again. The overlays are positioned better but still work in progress. The scale was slightly off so the edges of the text was not visible but at least it is centered in respect to the VR view. Just couldn’t see info such as what gear you are in and the chassis orientation graphics was half cutoff. Binocular view needs work. Couldn’t get hot some hot keys to map such as laser. It works if you hit “L” but it wouldn’t work if I assigned it to joystick button press. But NVG on/off did work via joystick button map. The aiming axis in binoculars needs work. Shooting smoke is not aligned with center cross. The smokes hits somewhere between 2 and 3 ticks left of center cross. Also the center cross is way different location depending on which eye you are focusing on. I also tried the Manpad and SA-19 a little but not much. Manpad I had to assign movement to the joystick trim hat and missile tube to joystick axis. That worked well. Tilted my head right a little then re-center view. That allowed for the guy to jog and not have the tube in your face as you run. It puts it more slightly to the right so you have enjoyable view of the terrain. Small bug there was re-center view key aligns your view to the tube but it also turns the guy to face a certain compass direction. It didn’t center view on my current bearing. Over all though, it was a major improvement from just a few weeks ago when I tried this last. Combined Arms is turning out to be awesome. Edit: Discovered that even during the daytime, you can use the NVG "N", then turn on IR Point "R", and Laser "L", and turn the gain all the way down on the NVG and you can use it during the day. The visible IR pointer works well in VR so you can precisely lase targets or drop smokes in VR. All this must be done in the binocular view.

How bad is it? I was going to put the pit back together next month and take it out for a spin. Removed the Throttle and rudder pedals but shouldn't be to hard to mod the throttle again for the EAC magnetic switch. But now I'm wondering how much more work am I in for.

Winwing switch is momentary for speed break extend. You have to hold it for a little bit to get the speed breaks to fully extend. But when you release it, the middle position (if mapped) would be pressed which is “off”. That button would register as a continuous press until the switch is rocked forward to retract or aft for extend. I haven’t tried the landing pattern to test the proposed question. But at one point I read a thread where the software had the speed brakes button reversed. I think they since fixed that in the latest firmware. After reading this I may need to un-map the off button. Mine is mapped: Retract = BTN18 OFF = BTN19 Extend = BTN20

Thank you for all your hard work Ian. DCS-Bios is an awesome showcase of your many talents. It has helped me achieve my dreams as well. Best of luck to you.

So which VR headset do you use with DCS?

Welcome home.

Just checking back to see how things are going. Do you have any pictures of your main instrument panel?

Awesome artwork. I really like the row of keys under the number pad.

What version of DCS World are you running, 1.5.x or 2.5.x ? I would think in any version the A-10C module would update to the latest version that’s in the E-shop. When you run the game you can see your modules on the home screen and under it, it list the software version of the module. Assuming your module is compatible, what type of arduino are you using? What does it do when you open the com port for that arduino using the connect serial port file? When you download DCS Bios, it has a library that you can see in your arduino IDE application. I select the master caution sketch and use that to see if everything is working because that sketch can blink the arduino on-board LED on pin 13 to be in sync with the master caution light on the A-10C up front controller. That’s a quick way to see if it’s communicating without having to type in any code.

Brilliant work. That is very cool Hans. Glad Mr. Quick and you solved it. I’m still in a hotel at the moment and all my stuff is still in storage. Not sure how long I’ll be in town and was wondering if it be worth moving in an apartment. If I do, updating the IFF will be one of the first things I’ll do. Hopefully one day someone will make a Mod where we can really get to use this panel. Your Cockpit is really turning out awesome. Cheers.

In regards to post #1056 from LimitedLiability I had that problem for my A-10C MFCDs back in 2016. The two MFD displays were redrawing the main view behind the MfD view instead of being just a black background. My problem was when I first modified the LUA code, I had typos in it. One thing that jumped out at me when I looked at the code months later was that one of the lines was missing the ; symbol at the end of it. Also I remember I found one other typo but corrected the situation by typing in an example code without errors and the problem went away. My PC is in U-haul storage, otherwise I would list the code I’m using. I just went back and looked at post #1006. For example his code is placing a , after the } brackets. Most codes that I see doesn’t do that. So I’m not sure what effect that would have if that is a typo.

Congrats on your great cockpit build Romeokilo.

You stopped your video too soon. It was good but left me wanting more. I can’t believe how real that looks. Bravo. I’m not at home with the sim, I’m actually out of state visiting family for the 4th of July. But this may work for the display test. When new data comes in, you can do a test to see if it is the special character. I don’t have access to the UHF code but I used char compare or string compare to see if it was that special symbol, if it was then I replaced it with the number 8 and then sent it to the display. But when you install those 16 segments that will cover you too and look even better at the same time. The other thing I did was being that my VHF, UHF, ILS, Tacan, and Fuel qty used displays, I watch the status of the battery switch and generator switches and I blank the displays based on the position of those switches. Ian helped me with this code. Well basically he came up with it. // Monitor the electrical panel to see the state of the Battery switch and Generator switches DcsBios::IntegerBuffer eppBatteryPwrBuffer(0x1110, 0x0002, 1, NULL); DcsBios::IntegerBuffer eppAcGenPwrLBuffer(0x110c, 0x8000, 15, NULL); DcsBios::IntegerBuffer eppAcGenPwrRBuffer(0x1110, 0x0001, 0, NULL); I put this part in the subroutine of the Void onUhfFrequencyChange for example. if ((eppAcGenPwrLBuffer.getData() == 0) && (eppAcGenPwrRBuffer.getData() == 0) && (eppBatteryPwrBuffer.getData() == 0)) { Blank display } Else { Normal code } When I install the circuit breaker panel later down the road, I was going to add the CB position to also check to see if power would be on or off at the box.

Excellent work Hans. I like how you included the code too.

That is so awesome. I like the engraving touch that adds to the authenticity. I’m hoping to build something similar. I’m hoping it works with a vga to USB adapter as I’m trying to do video over usb using display link.

Nice. Well when you get to the HSI I posted the code I used on Github.

I actually have a second ADI I got for $70. The pitch motor doesn’t work on it. I was going to take the synchro resolver motors out and put in stepper motors. The roll channel is easy and plenty of room to work with. The pitch channel is a bitch because you have to disassemble the entire ADI to get to it. Maybe one day. I love your wood frame structure and the creation of your panels. That $$()*! is sweet. Can’t wait to get further along.

I used a DSC1706511 digital to synchro module. It’s obsolete chip so I was hoping to find some for cheap. The used one I bought had the 2nd most significant bit broken so it would only do from 0 to 90 degrees but’s good one works perfect with DCS-Bios. https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/mm5/graphics/N08/DSC1706.pdf CSI sells the new versions but I’m sure they are expensive so I never inquired about the price. http://controlsciences.com/digital_synchro_resolver.php Well I’m hoping to get lucky on some used equipment from ebay. Some times you can find these modules inside the computer I/O cards so I ordered this one from France. It be here next month. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NORTH-ATLANTIC-538-10-DIGITAL-TO-RESOLVER-SYNCHRO-CONVERTER-C247/282849264333?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

For the display the original HSI used a form of serial data communication for the display. It was from the 1960s so it wasn’t a standard as we know today such as RS-232, or something similar. It had a clock input, a data input, and a sync input. It also had a built in watchdog such that if the sync pulse didn’t show within every 2 seconds it would blank the display. The illustrated parts breakdown didn’t go into the message format on what the bit sequence is to display data. And it may have been a hassle to get that from Rockwell Collins so I just removed the display and installed normal 7 segment BCD displays there and drove it with a MAX7219 chip. I notched a hole in the rear and brought in my wires that way so we didn’t have to cut wires out of the main connectors.

Hi Boltz how are you. Good I hope. One thing how I found the synchro transmitters was this. The HSI was from Collins so I did a ebay search for heading coarse control panel to see who was selling the remote control panel that had the coarse and heading knobs on it. Same for the ADI. It was Sperry so I did a search for Sperry heading coarse panel and theirs came up under Remote Instrument Controller. So when they came in I opened them up and took the synchro transmittter out. The Collins box had 4 inside. The Sperry box had 3 inside. So the price wasn’t too bad based on the amount we were getting. Also between the two boxes they had a lot of gears inside. So I kept all the gears and small screws and spacers and things. I used some of the gears in one version of the altimeter mod for which otherwise I would not have had it.

Amazing work Boltz. Just had to catch up on my reading. Been a while since I was in the forums again. Well hope to talk to you soon.

Love your HSI. I could never find one that had the two bearing pointers. I had a question though for the coarse and heading knobs. The ones I saw output synchro to tell the system the position of the knob. I thought about using a synchro to digital converter that would give us a 12 bit output. Then I got stuck on how to have DCS-Bios read the bits. It only does encoders I think for the knobs. Were you going to change out your knobs to encoders or does that HSI has encoder outputs for the knobs? I know a guy selling another HSI that has the cars hdg knobs on the HSI. It only has one bearing pointer though and the knob output is synchro signals. I think he selling for around $700 to $900 though. Can’t remember the price.