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Thadiun Okona

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  1. Doing bends like this isn't actually hard just takes a little patience. You need to anneal the bend areas first but you don't heat the metal while bending it. Al this thick will req a few cycles of annealing, which itself is super easy. Just draw Sharpie marks on the target area and use a simple plumbing torch to heat it just hot enough to burn off the sharpie marks. If 3mm or less a single anneal can get a 90deg bend out of 6000 series, thicker pieces will req more annealing to get that far. This looks like 1/4" or 6mm and a 45 deg bend so would likely take 2-3 anneal cycles before getting there. The reason metal cracks when bent is it work hardens at the bend line. You anneal before bending because it relaxes it's molecules since raw stock is already pretty work hardened from the process of shaping it. This allows it to go farther before becoming work hardened to the point of cracking
  2. Oh my.. those look big enough to use for pedals or a monster warbird stick like VO101_MMaister has been itching to build since forever . How hard can they be driven with the mosfets/psu arrangement on your drive board? Unrelated but wondering if the 57BLF03 motors you use have a D shaft... I'm toying with the idea of using shaft-winding for power transmission vs belt drive since it can be made really compact even at high ratios. With a round shaft the native 8mm could be used on the drive end but if there's a flat a bigger hub with full round would be needed.
  3. VKB T Rudders are similar and probably cheaper though you might have to cobble your own damper to it https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-t-rudders-mk-iv There's a bunch of knockoffs of them on aliexpress too I think but not sure how the quality is or mod-ability
  4. The Virpil pedals would be better for helis and I think cost less too
  5. It was suggested to remove the spring (for centering) and switch cams. I pointed out that without the spring on it, it doesn't matter what cam profile (different cam profiles have different centering feel) was on it. Helicopter controls don't have spring centering so people usually use damping to give it *some* kind of feel and helps with precision. Crosswind pedals have the option to also use a nice damper on it made for motorcycle steering. If you were using it for helis without the spring, you can adjust the damping force from really light to really strong to suit your taste.
  6. With the spring out it doesn't matter what cam is in but more importantly for Helis if op goes that route be sure to get the damper for it... they'd be very nice with like that with the damping dialed high enough
  7. Mostly just see them in simracing but never seen anyone disappointed with their eracing labs setup. I do recommend buying the controller directly from Thanos instead of them though... he sells direct and is very active in supporting the needs of people using it and eRacing resells them without and official agreement but I'm sure he'd still support it either way
  8. Fantastic, can not wait. Surprisingly clear video covering a lot of general FF concepts along with specifics to your controller, especially impressive seeing as English is not your native tongue. Already downloaded the software and have messed with it a bit but this vid makes the scope of it clear. I'm curious about the fans, I only remember seeing 2 wires, is there any way to control their speed? Achievable torque with belt reduction (I don't recommend gear boxes, backlash of gears is undesirable) is perfectly fine with 03 motors but curious, is there any reason the 04 version of the motors were not utilized?
  9. If you can't find any I can send you some in a regular letter envelope... costs $1 to ship. I've sent small amounts all around the world this way for a long time... there aren't any viable substitutes that I know of, though something probably exists? Either way, pm me if you're still stuck.. Overready is a good place to buy small amounts from though shipping cost might make it not worth it
  10. For some quality deflection you can use skateboard bushings like how they're used in loadcell pedals for simracing. You can use them as simple bumper stops between the stick and the loadcells or run rods through them you can pretension with thin nuts etc. They're widely available in different durometers and long lasting
  11. I love all the creative ideas but still can't fathom why not just let the roll motor/pulley for for a ride as you move the stick in pitch. It's easy to counterbalance the mass and you never saw on the stick in pitch in any form of flying though you might vigorously slam the ailerons from stop to stop. Even aerobatics pitch inputs are relatively tame but most types of flying you hold steady pitch for long periods and do minute adjustments. I mean, I understand why it was done on the MSFF II, it makes a smaller/more marketable base that follow domestic joystick expectations but anyone making one of these at this caliber here are not constrained by that yet the trend seems to be towards increasingly large and complex workarounds. Keeping both motors stationary on the base seems like a solution looking for a problem.
  12. Print a 20mm cube. If it measures 20.00 in x/y and z you are fine. If it's off at all you should calibrate your printer. If this is not relevant to you it may be to others. It's a pain but well worth doing, even it's only a tiny bit off.. stock settings are usually just off enough to make bearings have trouble. You will need to flash the settings on your printer, so first you need a 3rd party program that can do it. I use Pronterface.. lightweight, free and does what you need it to. https://www.pronterface.com/ Start by calibrating the extruder, everything downstream is affected by that so ensure it's proper first. https://mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration Next follow this guide (has links to test objects in guide..) I found 20mm cubes to be great but also used 100mm xyz thing too https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/ Mention was made of oversizeing holes when designing, same applies to undersizing bosses for the same reason.. interpolated circles in modeling programs either inscribe or circumscribe a series of straight line segments because curves don't exist in digital format. Another thing that might be causing issue is the 'elephant foot' that may be forming a tighter lip on your hole than the nominal id. That said, you can also heat the part/bearing to make it more compliant to pressing it in
  13. The followup question is: has the printer ever been precisely calibrated? *Most are not accurate out of the box... they're close enough to make parts that fit with parts printed on that particular machine but not precise enough to reliably press bearings into. Bearings are made to standard dimensions so if your printed part has a hole that's just slightly off no matter what orientation it's printed the part will crack. *Prusa's are the only ones I know of that are able to print dimensionally accurate parts without first manually verifying or calibrating x/y/z and extruder axes, and even then only because Prusa calibrates them at the factory and the cost reflects it.
  14. Roland's page is still in tact http://www.simprojects.nl/ms_siderwinder_ff2_hack.htm
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