Thadiun Okona
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Posts posted by Thadiun Okona
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Use something like Joystick Gremlin to emulate the stock kb inputs for all cockpit functions aside from axes. You can assign whatever joy buttons you want to whatever kb strokes you need. Another advantage of doing it this way is if your controls ever get wiped for whatever reason the only thing you have to rebind is axes
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Clear resins print much more optically pleasing translucents than filament
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Sounds like EMI issues
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It's a travesty that all the input hardware posts were stripped out of the Input Hardware forum and instedead buried among hundreds/thousands of super lame posts about RAM and processors. Basic computer hardware has almost nothing in common with joysticks and other input devices which were ironically perfectly at home when they were found in a forum titled Input Devices
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What a nightmare, now all the good and interesting stuff is buried under mountains of boring <profanity>, what a stupid forum merger
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1 hour ago, hannibal said:
fastened the grip assembly to the top gimbal
This reminded me of a mounted machine gun simulator some defense contractor was making for the Army I saw when I was doing some field work.. they took one of the small Buttkicker shakers and mounted it at the tip of the gun to simulate the recoil from firing. It was turned so the piston travel was inline with the barrel.
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2 hours ago, edmuss said:
I might grab an allegro sensor from Leo Bodnar (3 quid with free postage as a test) to see if it gives a finer response. I would imagine that the sensors I have don't have an amplifier, they were about a quid each on ebay!
I don't have a real world issue with the reponse I get from my rudder pedals, they seem plenty fine enough but more control can't hurt! If there is a significant difference then I'll invest the huge expenditure in the a full set of the allegro sensors for the collective (when I design it) and the rudders
A1324 is a more suitable sensor for use in joysticks/cockpit projects. People really latched onto the 1302 and I think gravitate towards it because that's what they've seen used and that's what LB sells but it lacks sensitivity. This makes it req 180deg movement for a full voltage swing. That means you are only going to use a fraction of your controller's resolution when using the much smaller arc any joystick or joystick adjacent device will be moving. A1324 is 5mv/Guass and you get a full swing out of 90deg, A1302 is 1.3mv/gauss.
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4 hours ago, Viper1970 said:
The project is still going on, although there is not much to report at the moment. Right now, I'm printing countless of my self-developed POV mechanics for these China 5 directional switches I bought.
They work quite well for my needs, although they are really not top notch. But using more advanced Alps or even OTTO POVs is too expensive for me.
The pressure point or behavior of the POV's during operation is roughly comparable to that of the old Thrustmaster F-16 FLCS coolies, except that I can implement a much smaller design of the POV's here and don't need as much space inside the case.
It is also possible to set the function between 5 and 4 way POV by using different stamps.
At the moment I'm also doing the AH-64D/E POV's for the cyclic. I mostly use hats that can be found on Thingiverse and adapt them to my needs, respectively if none could be found I do them by myself. The right side ones are for the Apache, the ones on the left were for the Viper/Venom.
I dislike the Alps 4/5 ways, they are mushy and have such long travel they're goofy to actuate with the hats going to high angles. Ottos/Mason etc feel great but are way to spendy but there are great ones you can print that are easy to make and if you use the *right tact switches feel better than what TM, Virpil, VKB, Winwing etc use in theirs. You would need to revamp your grips cause they have barrel bodies and are built similar to TM's that mimic Otto etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944
If you use the normal generic 260gf switches they still feel mushy like Thrustmaster's cause that's what they use however you can buy 500Gf branded versions of the same switch and they feel a lot better. *Omron B3F-1006
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/B3F-1006?qs=wE98CiVmOw78gCH%2BNiS1qg%3D%3D
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/B3F-1006/1129851
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On 1/6/2023 at 9:44 AM, Hempstead said:
Well.... that's an idea!
I was wondering why you weren't just using a shift register board to get your wire bundle in check, especially since they're so common now
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17 hours ago, Viper1970 said:
I am currently working on printable B8 Standard (F-4 / F-5 / A-7), A-4E, F-15C/E and F/A-18 grips.
For my own project, I used grips from Thrustmaster and Suncom, which I modified.
But I would also like to have printable versions of these grips.
Have you seen this guy's project? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5764003
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6 hours ago, No1sonuk said:
Maybe have a rubber tube under the existing button to give more resistance?
Or a small spring, though neither of these help with the tactile report/click force
Forgot to add this, but these metal dome CK switches make great internals for scratch built Otto replicas, very loud tactile click and 300gf force, the other 600.. combine with a spring/plunger in a housing the way TM makes them and it's a much more compelling switch than the mushy ones they make with the little dome switches in them.
Here's a youtube vid I made showing it compared to another clicky CK switch that would also work well for the same reasons, depending if you want a sharper or duller report on the click
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Bumping this in case viper thinks there's no interest since he mostly posts alone here. This is one of the more interesting threads around here though, love seeing all the progress
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If anyone wants printed replica P51 parts this century there's Authentikit https://authentikit.org/p51d/
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1 hour ago, Viper1970 said:
The whole TM Viper grip electronics part. I will do a description of all wires and where they are connected, which direction is which color at the hats and so on, at a later time.
There are already some pics on the web, but I never seen a complete seperate electronics anywhere. I think this way it is easier to do a research of all the wires if something is broken.
The Hornet grip will follow and also all other original TM HOTAS parts I disassemble during the project.
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4 hours ago, edmuss said:
Bending the braces by hand was a massive failure, even with heat applied. Fortunately my mate has a fabrication shop and he kinked the flat bar, welded to the cracks up (from cold working the aluminium) and cleaned them up. All for the cost of 4 packs of biscuits
The gas struts for the toe brakes arrived, modelled them up and located. Had to extend the actuation arm to fit the package in but that just means the toe brakes will be a bit heavier which is preferable.
Toe brake depressed.
Toe brakes relaxed.
The Leo Bodnar board arrived along with the hall sensors, wired one up to test and all working. Modelled the sensor and magnet and figured out best position for both to give full stroke of the strut.
I have two spare struts that I ordered and I'm intending on setting them up equally opposed mid stroke to act as dampers for the main assembly. Hopefully get that modelled tonight.
Doing bends like this isn't actually hard just takes a little patience. You need to anneal the bend areas first but you don't heat the metal while bending it. Al this thick will req a few cycles of annealing, which itself is super easy. Just draw Sharpie marks on the target area and use a simple plumbing torch to heat it just hot enough to burn off the sharpie marks. If 3mm or less a single anneal can get a 90deg bend out of 6000 series, thicker pieces will req more annealing to get that far. This looks like 1/4" or 6mm and a 45 deg bend so would likely take 2-3 anneal cycles before getting there.
The reason metal cracks when bent is it work hardens at the bend line. You anneal before bending because it relaxes it's molecules since raw stock is already pretty work hardened from the process of shaping it. This allows it to go farther before becoming work hardened to the point of cracking
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58 minutes ago, walmis said:
Yes, definitely!
Got my hands on a few samples of 86BLF03 motors. Installed the servo drive. Works a treat. Happy to say I will be able to supply them.
Demo of the big boy in action with the 57BLF03 for scale: https://gfycat.com/unrulyentirebilby
Oh my.. those look big enough to use for pedals or a monster warbird stick like VO101_MMaister has been itching to build since forever . How hard can they be driven with the mosfets/psu arrangement on your drive board?
Unrelated but wondering if the 57BLF03 motors you use have a D shaft... I'm toying with the idea of using shaft-winding for power transmission vs belt drive since it can be made really compact even at high ratios. With a round shaft the native 8mm could be used on the drive end but if there's a flat a bigger hub with full round would be needed. -
VKB T Rudders are similar and probably cheaper though you might have to cobble your own damper to it https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-t-rudders-mk-iv
There's a bunch of knockoffs of them on aliexpress too I think but not sure how the quality is or mod-ability
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The Virpil pedals would be better for helis and I think cost less too
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1 hour ago, dresoccer4 said:
can you explain? not sure what you're talking about
It was suggested to remove the spring (for centering) and switch cams. I pointed out that without the spring on it, it doesn't matter what cam profile (different cam profiles have different centering feel) was on it.
Helicopter controls don't have spring centering so people usually use damping to give it *some* kind of feel and helps with precision. Crosswind pedals have the option to also use a nice damper on it made for motorcycle steering. If you were using it for helis without the spring, you can adjust the damping force from really light to really strong to suit your taste.
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With the spring out it doesn't matter what cam is in but more importantly for Helis if op goes that route be sure to get the damper for it... they'd be very nice with like that with the damping dialed high enough
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Mostly just see them in simracing but never seen anyone disappointed with their eracing labs setup. I do recommend buying the controller directly from Thanos instead of them though... he sells direct and is very active in supporting the needs of people using it and eRacing resells them without and official agreement but I'm sure he'd still support it either way
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20 hours ago, walmis said:
Hey guys, first video is online:
Fantastic, can not wait. Surprisingly clear video covering a lot of general FF concepts along with specifics to your controller, especially impressive seeing as English is not your native tongue. Already downloaded the software and have messed with it a bit but this vid makes the scope of it clear.
I'm curious about the fans, I only remember seeing 2 wires, is there any way to control their speed?Achievable torque with belt reduction (I don't recommend gear boxes, backlash of gears is undesirable) is perfectly fine with 03 motors but curious, is there any reason the 04 version of the motors were not utilized?
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If you can't find any I can send you some in a regular letter envelope... costs $1 to ship. I've sent small amounts all around the world this way for a long time... there aren't any viable substitutes that I know of, though something probably exists? Either way, pm me if you're still stuck..
Overready is a good place to buy small amounts from though shipping cost might make it not worth it
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For some quality deflection you can use skateboard bushings like how they're used in loadcell pedals for simracing. You can use them as simple bumper stops between the stick and the loadcells or run rods through them you can pretension with thin nuts etc. They're widely available in different durometers and long lasting
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Alternative to Solidworks
in Home Cockpits
Posted
Took me a bit to get used to Fusion coming from SW but man it does so many things I wished I could do in SW and I ended up liking it better