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Everything posted by fierceBeaver

  1. Just run control panel 75% of power and turn ON/OFF every motor one by one. You will know which ones work/do not work and replace faulty TPL chip for a better one TPL7407LA Schottky diode version (with LA). Like I said the root cause of the damage is still unknown. If you want to check motor currents you'll need amperemeter plugged in series in line with motor. Obviously you have to disconnect a wire at some point to do it so choose best place to do it (I did it near motor). I don't think you have to measure current anyway - it's just in case you want to investigate thing further only EDIT: corrected TPL model for LA
  2. First of all I'm not an electronics engineer so if you have found some inaccuracies please correct me, thanks. There is a recurring problem with damage of the two TPL7407L motor drivers used in Forcefeel. First one drives motor number 1 and a RGB diode and second one is driving motors number 2-8. I looked up the datasheet of TPL7407L and I found that there are some design problems in Forcefeel but I'm not sure what is causing chip damage. Assuming overcurrent for now. So do not overuse control panel motor testing on 100% for extended periods of time. If you have to - do it one by one for short periods of time. Realteus didn't use a schottky diode on pin OUT7 to protect the device from negative transients from inductive load as described in datasheet 8.2.1. There should be shorts between GND and unconnected input pins as stated in but that's not so essential - its just bad engineering. I measured current flowing through the motor number 2 on (control panel 100%) and there was steady ~100mA - so it's within specifications. Motors number 3 and 4 are a little different/faster than others (I didn't measure them). Maybe there are some bigger numbers in the current flow. As of Figure 5 and 6 in the datasheet there should be enough headroom on the chip loaded with 7 motors with 100% duty cycle - about 160mA-220mA per motor Cables inside pads are scrambled under the motors. It can have an impact on longevity. They didn't balance the load between two TPLs which is another case of bad engineering. To repair You should desolder faulty TPL7407L motor driver and solder a new one. I would suggest buying a better TPL7407LA version (with LA). This is a pin-to-pin replacement of the TPL7407L with more robust operation and it does not need a Schottky diode. You need to buy the TPL7407LA SOIC-16. Do not buy the TSSOP version - it will not fit. If motor 1 and diode works then you should desolder only the second chip which drives motors 2-8 and vice versa. To do it properly you need a couple of things. If you don’t have some of them DO NOT START REPAIR. Only proper tools will make it easy. If not You will probably kill/overheat a PCB. If you will do it as described it will be a painless and satisfactory process. You will need: Heat iron with adjustable temperature - do not use one without it (any cheap chinese will do like WEP/ YIHUA etc) Hot air gun with adjustable temperature - again - do not use one without it (any cheap chinese will do like WEP/ YIHUA etc ) Desoldering wire - small width 2-3mm (if you're from a country which doesn't do metric - sorry I don’t care Tin-Lead solder 0.5mm diameter - I mean it - Lead solder not factory used unleaded ones. It should be SnPb. Flux like AMTECH NC-559-ASM-UV sold in syringes - very handy You will use it a lot Pure Isopropanol Alcohol 99% Isopropyl Liquid Cleaner IPA - to clean this mess up after soldering with some old toothbrush or some ESD-safe brush. You can fill/use an atomizer/sprayer and fill Isopropanol in it. Tweezers Kapton tape to secure plastics around Aliexpress and ebay are your friend, you won’t regret getting proper tools believe me. They can be cheap chinese ones - you won't be a Mozart of electronics - be like Justin Bieber Desoldering/ soldering advice Pro-tip - before desoldering put a small amount of flux around chip legs, heat the iron, add some tin to the tip of iron and move right and left around chip legs and repeat - to mix factory unleaded tin on legs with your easier to manage leaded tin. This will make a big difference while desoldering. Then start desoldering with a Hot Air gun. When the chip is desoldered it will become extremely loose like on ice so be prepared. Just gently push it while you heat it up with air. Remember you’re heating everything up there on PCB so it’s possible you will heat up some resistors or caps - it’s normal. Plan before and do a dry practice on how and where you will move the chip and how you will pick it up. When you pick it up you will drop it, believe me. Plan accordingly. Do not move it to those resistors around just slide it to some empty place - remember it will be loose like on ice. Prepare where you will put the air gun so you won’t burn your sh.it trying to pick up the chip juggling an air gun in second hand and fry your balls... Clean pads with iron, flux and wire before soldering. Hot Air should be VERY hot and close to the chip. Remember your plan is not to cook the chip and PCB for 2 minutes and make it crispy and crunchy. Your plan is to get in fast and get out Look up on youtube some guys who do it often like this one Proper desoldering technique Proper soldering technique Do not pick up chip too early when it is not completely desoldered because you will rip pcb pads. Do not do like this bone.head This is how NOT TO DO IT. He is ripping it off the PCB Have FUN
  3. Important question: do ANYONE have a failure of motor no 1? It's driven by one 7-channel chip so it would be quite strange to overcurrent it. Motors 2-8 are all driven by second chip so there's less headroom there
  4. OK I repaired it. There are some design flaws in Forcefeel. I'm not an electronics engineer but after looking up specifications for TPL7407L driver some things doesn't add up. I will do some short writeup of my findings and repair in separate thread to be easily accessible in the future by anyone. (It will take some time)
  5. I have similar problems. It worked before but now only one motor works when tested under control panel (number 1). No other works but motor number 6 works all the time even when i unplug USB from PC. FFB strength rotary encoder works and changes FFB strength (in this case motor no 1 only). Motor number 6 vibrates at constant pace all the time. Any developments so far in your case guys? @melo & @blackkot & @BavarianPilot
  6. In Simshaker for Aviators there is an option - experimental piston engine "best used with Jeatseat!". Is there any difference between one or another?
  7. Well I just simply ask again if anyone knows what is the difference between JetSeat and Forcefeel in SimShaker for Aviators?
  8. What is the difference between JetSeat and Forcefeel in SimShaker for Aviators?
  9. No problems here after all this time - no temp change:thumbup::music_whistling: Maybe someone overdone it... Good luck!
  10. I bought dozen of modules and waited last two years only for this news. MAKE IT HAPPEN:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
  11. This FPS Drop© could be made by: WAGS post here: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3824342&postcount=141
  12. This FPS Drop© could be made by: WAGS post here: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3824342&postcount=141
  13. I think you've gone little too far with it :D but it's just my opinion...:smilewink:
  14. i Checked all options, max, low, etc. Before DCS update I had those side Vapors. My specs are in my Signature
  15. Could you help me - why there are only partial vapor effects on F/A-18 like on screenshot? latest nvidia drivers v417.35 latest Windows 10 64bit DCS v2.5.4.25729 (openbeta) https://imgur.com/UXc1qEN
  16. I'm also curious how to play those a10c campaigns. Any hints?
  17. No, it doesn't, but API has much to do with frame times and this is what I focused on (not the streaming engine) because that's the biggest of DCS/VR stuttering problems right now. Streaming engine problems are nowhere near and negligible with good hardware :thumbup:
  18. Hi, I'm happy to help. For now, I usually use 1.5 DCS supersampling. Strangely it's little smoother. I used a steam 2.4 supersampling before which is not a perfect equivalent but it's normally smoother.... But it's not the case in DCS. Like many other things... [TABLE]Steam DCS supesampling method supesampling method 1,96 1,40 2,25 1,50 2,40 1,55 2,50 1,58 2,56 1,60 2,89 1,70 3,24 1,80 3,61 1,90 4,00 2,00 6,25 2,50 [/TABLE] You're right about it, the streaming engine is not as good as it could be and in fact that the real problem is a stuttering from nonexistent thread engine, dreaded multiplayer net code and bad choice of old graphics API ( ..we just had a major engine upgrade ehhh...) which underperforms on modern CPUs. :pilotfly::pilotfly:DCS community:pilotfly::pilotfly: overall has some of the highest-end PC hardware out there and in many ways is trying to "cover" those problems with it. We cannot have faster hardware so the devs have to keep up with us. I listed just a handful of techniques which could help here but are not used in DCS.
  19. I've done different variants of affinity testing but the results were unsatisfactory. It's a placebo some people are experiencing and results was always worse on clean system. The best option was to leave affinity to defaults, make it balanced by system and change DCS and VR processes priorities higher. (With all unnecessary processes turned off of course) p.s. I would like to point to anyone considering this (not you) that manual messing with process affinity is quite stupid because of CPUs shared caches between cores and cache hit problems. There's much more to affinity than some people think (not talking about you :)) so I would advise to leave it to developers and system managed default and instead turn everything else to the minimum. If affinity speculation helped you - look closer because you have some fundamental problems with your system. Normally there is very little to gain and much more to lose
  20. Your heatsink is modular and much smaller. It's not like poseidon's big waterblock + heatsink. I don't think it will help but you can try
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