Lynx_132a1

My friend has a Cougar that i have worked on a couple of times (Changed pots to DIY Hall's and such). A force sensing mod is a must for a cougar. If not for realism it is for the longevity of the product. We (are two people working on a simpit-ish build where i am the tech guy and the other guy is the finances guy) have a cougar with the original FCC modification back from 2002-3. Rock solid and sharp as a scalpel. I don't know the performance difference between the first and other FCC versions but the first version is built like a tank and doesn't have issues even after +10 years of service. Keep an eye out on falcon and simhq forums. From time to time some for sale posts appear for FCC stuff. Just need to set different curve settings for different mastermodes and voila! as real as it gets :) (BTW the attached photos have a slight issue. The connector and the sensor must be rotated just a little bit to right (clockwise) about 15 degrees. I've read somewhere that the sensors on the plane is a bit turned to right so if the pilot were to pull straight back relative to the aircrafts nose than the plane would pitch up and drop the right wing slightly.) Cheers.

I think he is telling that the FSSB bases are not generally suitable for F-16 homecockpits. Older FSSB versions for the Cougar were too big and square shaped (The SSC force transducer box is cylindrical on top) therefore they couldn't be mounted in a homemade transducer box. The FCC (1,2&3) mods are smaller in form factor and can be fitted into a transducer box shell mounted in a simpit.

I am late to the party but here are my two cents. The closest thing that you can buy on the market today to a F-16 Hotas is the TM HOTAS Cougar. Force mods have been around for the cougar for a long time, started with the FCC and now at FSSB R3L (in terms of plug and play-ish solutions.). If you have making a simpit in mind at some point my recommendation would be the FCC3 as it is small in form factor and fits into a replicated force transducer block. But if you don’t plan on doing a simpit at some point realsimulator’s FSSB R1-2 stuff are top notch and have a prettty software. Some alternatives to it would be the Warthog+FSSB R3L base or a custom X65 with a fitted 16 grip. You can also go for the full realsimulator solution with their new F-16 grip if the price is not a problem. Also “if money is not s problem” you can go balls-to-the-walls with a real F-16 SSC with a transducer. The F-16 grip and the A-10 grip is a tiny bit different in terms of ergos and the cms buttons are different. Other than thar the warthog with the lightning is a pretty solid and up-to-date solution.

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As title says, I am looking for Cougar Throttle and Stick GRIP. ONLY STICK GRIP AND Throttle. So if anyone wants to sell just get in touch. P.S. i live in Turkey so the seller must consider the transportation of the product ( Of course i will pay the shipping but i wanted seller to know the must be able to ship it internationaly).

So, we have been making a throttle grip and we have some laser scans of the part we want to make but unfortunately some areas of the scan were distorted and we need some help on fixing them. I am attaching a screenshot of the distorted areas. I made some fixing on them by making the object an editable poly and using the "Cap hole" modifier. My question is, after i used the cap hole, most of the open (unconnected) areas are filled including screw holes and such (screw holes are not a problem we can easily open them) but my question is are the filled areas solid? (I mean filled with material too) because if they are hollow after this modification on the object the printing would be hollow either which will cause strenght issues. So to visualise this the attachment marked with red "one" is the scan of the object without any modifications on it and the one with red "two" is the state of the object after modification, so will the filled and closed gaps be hollow when we print it?

Tittle says all, Im just looking for a Cougar throttle. It can have axis problems on the base (I mean the main throttle axis can be broken) but all buttons working with no overall physical damage on the throttle grip as well as no problem on the circuit is a must. As i said, i can buy one with a broken throttle axis but i won't accept with any button, electrical (circuit stuff) or pyhsical damage. Great deal for someone looking to get rid of their Cougar Throttle broken or working... P.S. I am looking for a throttle axis issued one because i will mod it, but working ones without any flaw are welcome too...

Serial #62518 Istanbul, Turkey

Hi all! Does anybody know a 6DOF gyro powered DIY headtracking solution? I am currently using FreetTrack (I am broke and TrackIR is not available) and position of my setup gets affected by sunlight pretty much every hour of the day so I am looking for a magnetic solution. I am planning to make it via using arduino board and an IMU but i don't know how, so if anybody has information over topic please feel free to help.

Well, thank you guys for suggestions! I did think about getting a cougar (even a broken one, not physically of course) and then doing other modifications on it but first we all know prices of those stuff, I can get one guaranteed (one of my friend has an amazing skiil on finding rare stuff and getting them for me, he found like dozens of cougars compared to the quantity of them on market) but the price is a problem for me (especially if you live in a country where dolar is a lot more expensive than your currency, it's like 3.6 times my currency!) and also at many sources that i found earlier only accept Paypal. Guess what? Paypal got out of my country a couple of years ago! I can't do any transactions, payments, shopping with anything related to Paypal with a Turkish registered CC. So there is basically no way of me buying one without braking the bank and asking politely to the seller if they would accept an IBAN transaction or such... I got your point... At first that was the best shot for me but after a couple of months i found a group of 30 (i guess, damn there are alot of guys in my group) who are building "Homecockpits" with "Arduino" boards. Most of them don't have the money to buy a cougar or such so everything is pretty ghetto! believe me. They have cartoon filled plexi-glass instrument panels and such. I found them by searching for a 16 throttle grip, they said one of them had a friend who would carve them from wood. It was like 2 months ago and i never heard back! :lol: After getting a grip (hopefully) my next hunt would be for the button caps and such (I can obtain buttons, thats easy)...

So, for example, if i set all my hats and buttons into my grip casing and attach it to a potentiometer (as axis sensor) and connect them to the bodnar card i am pretty much plug an play? I mean after i assign the buttons and such, setting the pot as the axis sensor it is pretty much all i have to do right?

Hi folks, I want to make a F-16 style throttle from scratch. I found someone who is capable of carving the throttle grip from wood and we have a deal. But the problem is electronics for me, i don't know where to start. I searched net for some answers but i have nothing. Can it be done with an arduino board like Mega 2560 and a good potentiometer as throttle axis. Also i found BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board at bodnar website, would a stick board like this be easier to use for my task? So to sum up, i found a person to carve me a F-16 Throttle Grip and i can find switches and such from local suppliers but i have problem with integrating the whole setup to DCS and such. I am planning to use a pot as the axis sensor but how can i integrate this to DCS with buttons and such? Which card do i need? Which card would be better and easier? My best bet is this sub forum i guess as i saw some F-16 threads up. I guess you guys know better from most of the guys at hardware sub forum as I/O is more important for you guys. So Thank you P.S. I know we don't have F-16 in DCS but i like the feel of the grip, it feels better for me to use with single engine aircraft.

I understand but i won't be able to build a computer for a pretty long time. While i have the oppurtunity i wan't use it as effective as i can.

So rather than 2 cards, one more powerfull card will give me better performance with VR?

Hi all, I want to build a PC that will give me good results with DCS and VR. I am thinking about SLI Titan X(p) and a 6850k for now but is 2 New Titan x pascals are worth it if we consider a long lifespan for this build? I mean if i go with sli 1080s will i get a close performance for a considerably lower cost? The PC that i am going to build must have a long lifetime (I won't play all games on VR) and i will probably stick to 1080p and 1440p. So should i go with 2 1080s or a single New Titan X or Sli New Titans?

Hi, When i start in a server with Mirage and after turning engines on before INS alignment i check the initial coordinates by switching L\L on PCN and switching VEI on PSM but the initial coordinates are not the same as i see on F-10 map. I have L\L Decimal selected as map coordinate type but it is not the same coordinates on PCN. I know how to change initial coordinates on PCN but i cant seem to find the exact longitude of my plane. I tried to zoom as much as i can on my player icon on map and tried clicking on my icon ( which makes it yellow) but the coordinates are allways different and i can't find the Longitude of my aircraft. So are the coordinates on top left are my coordinates or the coordinates i see at left down corner of the (the chart) map when i press on my player icon right? and also how can i see my longitude on left down corner where it shows a chart that tells the speed-direction-alt of the units icon i pressed on? Sorry if the post is under wrong topic new here. Lynx.