Deltaalphalima1

I'm glad to hear you were able to get it working! Did you get the genuine Molex cable? That should have the correct pinout. Let me now if you would like me to send a replacement cable, it might take a week or two to get to you but it's the least I can do if the original was faulty.

That's great to hear! Sometimes these things can just get stuck in a loop, turning everything off and on again and going back the start can get it working again If it is working at all it's probably not the cable. It is a digital communication for the axes so if there are any bad connections it will almost always just stop working entirely on both axes. Have you cleared the windows cal and run the tool from my website? Where are you testing to see the jumping you describe? If you want to try a new cable the Molex PicoBlade is the correct genuine part, just make sure you get one long enough, that link is only 50mm.

That's a strange one, sounds like you have tried everything I would normally recommend. Probably best to go back to the start, make sure you are on v23 firmware, connect the old sensor and recalibrate, and check both axes are moving. Unplug the throttle, reconnect the new sensor, then plug the throttle back in and without recalibration or anything, check if you can see any movement on either axis. If the old sensor is working in that configuration, but the new sensor still shows no movement, then it is probably something hardware related with the new sensor. If you can send me a pm or email I can give some move specific advice

Yes the 'reset to deault' will clear any windows calibration, I think apply will be greyed out if it is already cleared. The calibration tool does all the axes on the throttle, it isn’t required to recalibrate after installing the new firmware, but it is probably a good to do it every now and again anyway. There are two calibration programs in the folder you can download from my website, 'HW_Stick Calibration' and 'Throttle Warthog Calibration' , so you calibrate them separately. If your happy with how your stick is working then no need to recalibrate it too, especially if you have custom limits that might get complicated.

There is deadzone set in a few places, I will try to explain and some of them can be reduced. Firstly there is some minimal deadzone built into the firmware in the slew upgrade, that is necessary as the ministick sensor doesn’t return exactly to centre every time, so you get drift without it. There is also some deadzone inside the warthog throttle firmware that is set when running the Thrustmaster calibration tool. If you find the 'A10_calibration.txt' file inside the folder with the calibration tool, you can change settings: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x05; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x05; // 21 It has already been changes to 5 as standard, but you can do down to 01, so change to: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x01; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x01; // 21 Then rerun the calibration tool as normal. Lastly make sure you have cleared any windows calibration, as that can add some. If it is still too jumpy around the centre, adding curves in DCS is probably the best next step. That way you can reduced the sensitivity around the centre and hopefully make it smoother. Let me know how you get on! Our modified fast slew firmware V100 can be downloaded from my website, https://deltasimelectronics.com/pages/install-instructions The standard firmware comes with the update tool, which is included in the standard warthog driver package, available from the Thrustmaster website download section.

Yes the updated firmware should work fine, please let me know if you see an improvement as I haven’t tested it myself yet. My slew upgrade and the new TM slew should be interchangeable too, in case you wanted to swap them at any point.

I don’t think it is some universal problem, I think it is probably something wrong with your Arduino setup The Instructables sketch does work, but I last tested it on an uno board. It’s been a while since I did anything with a pro mini, but I am always suspicious of the i2c port and the wire library when moving between boards. My first troubleshooting step would probably be to confirm the wire library is working with the A4 and A5 ports on the pro mini like it is supposed to, do you and an oscilloscope or other known good i2c sensor you can connect?

Sorry to hear that, the most common thing that causes a problem like this is if the 5-pin cable and connector to the new slew sensor have worked loose, and are no longer making a good connection. I would recommend opening the throttle grip and disconnecting the cable from the new sensor, and then swapping the ends of the cable around, so the end that was connect to the throttle is now connected to the sensor and vice versa, that will make sure all the connections have been re-seated. You might need to run the calibration tool again after you have done this, before the sensor will start working again. If that doesn’t fix it if you can send me an email or message I can walk you through some more steps.

Yes that should work, anything with two potentiometers should be fine electrically. The pushbutton is not required, and not used in the warthog most of the time - but it is a nice to have to assign to some other function.

Yes for the last year or so new throttles have been shipping with an updated slew as standard. It is quite similar to my upgrade, using a similar Xbox style Thumbstick. There some picture of the new slew a few posts back, https://forum.dcs.world/topic/170423-yet-another-warthog-slew-upgrade/page/61/#comment-5111623 If your throttle has the new slew already, there probably isn’t much point upgrading to mine. I have had a few customers say they still prefer my upgrade over the new Thrustmaster part, since it uses a slightly higher quality sensor and other parts, but it is definitely less of an upgrade compared to replacing the original nub. Once our new force sensor is finally ready, that will be a considerable upgrade to everything else available, but will be more expensive.

Our Warthog slew upgrades are in stock, so if you order now it will ship within 2 working days. Shipping time to Canada is around 1-3 weeks, depending how enthusiastic customs are feeling - so hopefully would be with you by mid-May. I can’t say much, but the short answer is yes, I do very much have plans for a new force sensor. Hopefully there will be something to show in the next few months

Yes not a problem, we ship regularly to the US. Shipping is £9 for standard untracked, or £12 for tracked shipping. Delivered by USPS.

Issues at Royal Mail have caused lots of delays in the last two weeks, we haven’t been able to dispatch any international orders since January 12, and most items we sent even from January 5th seem to have been caught up in the delays. Things do seem to be improving in the last few days, the latest update from Royal Mail, Saturday 21st is: "We have now resumed international export despatches for all mail streams including parcels and letters across a growing number of international destinations. We are making good progress in despatching items that are already in our network across all of our services. Please note you may see less tracking information than usual as we continue to restore our services. At this time, we continue to ask customers not to submit new parcels for export, and we will update further on service resumption as soon as possible." Hopefully they will allow us to send new parcel again soon. Thank you very much to everyone who has waited patiently for their orders over the last few weeks!

There is no massive issue with using the windows calibration, it's just that it can override the native Thrustmaster cal, which can cause other issues and doesn’t give best performance. The windows cal is also specify to one computer, where the Thrustmaster cal is stored on the throttle so is portable between computers. I believe the windows calibration reset can be bugged in some circumstances, which might have happened after you update the firmware. By running the windows cal you may have essentially just manually reset it. If it’s working how you like it now, I wouldn’t worry about it. If you have another computer you can connect the throttle to and test that might be good to try. If you connect it to anther pc and it works fine, you’re definitely good to go.