Deltaalphalima1

I'm glad to hear you were able to get it working! Did you get the genuine Molex cable? That should have the correct pinout. Let me now if you would like me to send a replacement cable, it might take a week or two to get to you but it's the least I can do if the original was faulty.

That's great to hear! Sometimes these things can just get stuck in a loop, turning everything off and on again and going back the start can get it working again If it is working at all it's probably not the cable. It is a digital communication for the axes so if there are any bad connections it will almost always just stop working entirely on both axes. Have you cleared the windows cal and run the tool from my website? Where are you testing to see the jumping you describe? If you want to try a new cable the Molex PicoBlade is the correct genuine part, just make sure you get one long enough, that link is only 50mm.

That's a strange one, sounds like you have tried everything I would normally recommend. Probably best to go back to the start, make sure you are on v23 firmware, connect the old sensor and recalibrate, and check both axes are moving. Unplug the throttle, reconnect the new sensor, then plug the throttle back in and without recalibration or anything, check if you can see any movement on either axis. If the old sensor is working in that configuration, but the new sensor still shows no movement, then it is probably something hardware related with the new sensor. If you can send me a pm or email I can give some move specific advice

Yes the 'reset to deault' will clear any windows calibration, I think apply will be greyed out if it is already cleared. The calibration tool does all the axes on the throttle, it isn’t required to recalibrate after installing the new firmware, but it is probably a good to do it every now and again anyway. There are two calibration programs in the folder you can download from my website, 'HW_Stick Calibration' and 'Throttle Warthog Calibration' , so you calibrate them separately. If your happy with how your stick is working then no need to recalibrate it too, especially if you have custom limits that might get complicated.

There is deadzone set in a few places, I will try to explain and some of them can be reduced. Firstly there is some minimal deadzone built into the firmware in the slew upgrade, that is necessary as the ministick sensor doesn’t return exactly to centre every time, so you get drift without it. There is also some deadzone inside the warthog throttle firmware that is set when running the Thrustmaster calibration tool. If you find the 'A10_calibration.txt' file inside the folder with the calibration tool, you can change settings: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x05; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x05; // 21 It has already been changes to 5 as standard, but you can do down to 01, so change to: Standard_DZ_SX = 0x01; // 20 Standard_DZ_SY = 0x01; // 21 Then rerun the calibration tool as normal. Lastly make sure you have cleared any windows calibration, as that can add some. If it is still too jumpy around the centre, adding curves in DCS is probably the best next step. That way you can reduced the sensitivity around the centre and hopefully make it smoother. Let me know how you get on! Our modified fast slew firmware V100 can be downloaded from my website, https://deltasimelectronics.com/pages/install-instructions The standard firmware comes with the update tool, which is included in the standard warthog driver package, available from the Thrustmaster website download section.

Yes the updated firmware should work fine, please let me know if you see an improvement as I haven’t tested it myself yet. My slew upgrade and the new TM slew should be interchangeable too, in case you wanted to swap them at any point.

I don’t think it is some universal problem, I think it is probably something wrong with your Arduino setup The Instructables sketch does work, but I last tested it on an uno board. It’s been a while since I did anything with a pro mini, but I am always suspicious of the i2c port and the wire library when moving between boards. My first troubleshooting step would probably be to confirm the wire library is working with the A4 and A5 ports on the pro mini like it is supposed to, do you and an oscilloscope or other known good i2c sensor you can connect?

Sorry to hear that, the most common thing that causes a problem like this is if the 5-pin cable and connector to the new slew sensor have worked loose, and are no longer making a good connection. I would recommend opening the throttle grip and disconnecting the cable from the new sensor, and then swapping the ends of the cable around, so the end that was connect to the throttle is now connected to the sensor and vice versa, that will make sure all the connections have been re-seated. You might need to run the calibration tool again after you have done this, before the sensor will start working again. If that doesn’t fix it if you can send me an email or message I can walk you through some more steps.

Yes that should work, anything with two potentiometers should be fine electrically. The pushbutton is not required, and not used in the warthog most of the time - but it is a nice to have to assign to some other function.

Yes for the last year or so new throttles have been shipping with an updated slew as standard. It is quite similar to my upgrade, using a similar Xbox style Thumbstick. There some picture of the new slew a few posts back, https://forum.dcs.world/topic/170423-yet-another-warthog-slew-upgrade/page/61/#comment-5111623 If your throttle has the new slew already, there probably isn’t much point upgrading to mine. I have had a few customers say they still prefer my upgrade over the new Thrustmaster part, since it uses a slightly higher quality sensor and other parts, but it is definitely less of an upgrade compared to replacing the original nub. Once our new force sensor is finally ready, that will be a considerable upgrade to everything else available, but will be more expensive.

Our Warthog slew upgrades are in stock, so if you order now it will ship within 2 working days. Shipping time to Canada is around 1-3 weeks, depending how enthusiastic customs are feeling - so hopefully would be with you by mid-May. I can’t say much, but the short answer is yes, I do very much have plans for a new force sensor. Hopefully there will be something to show in the next few months

Yes not a problem, we ship regularly to the US. Shipping is £9 for standard untracked, or £12 for tracked shipping. Delivered by USPS.

Issues at Royal Mail have caused lots of delays in the last two weeks, we haven’t been able to dispatch any international orders since January 12, and most items we sent even from January 5th seem to have been caught up in the delays. Things do seem to be improving in the last few days, the latest update from Royal Mail, Saturday 21st is: "We have now resumed international export despatches for all mail streams including parcels and letters across a growing number of international destinations. We are making good progress in despatching items that are already in our network across all of our services. Please note you may see less tracking information than usual as we continue to restore our services. At this time, we continue to ask customers not to submit new parcels for export, and we will update further on service resumption as soon as possible." Hopefully they will allow us to send new parcel again soon. Thank you very much to everyone who has waited patiently for their orders over the last few weeks!

There is no massive issue with using the windows calibration, it's just that it can override the native Thrustmaster cal, which can cause other issues and doesn’t give best performance. The windows cal is also specify to one computer, where the Thrustmaster cal is stored on the throttle so is portable between computers. I believe the windows calibration reset can be bugged in some circumstances, which might have happened after you update the firmware. By running the windows cal you may have essentially just manually reset it. If it’s working how you like it now, I wouldn’t worry about it. If you have another computer you can connect the throttle to and test that might be good to try. If you connect it to anther pc and it works fine, you’re definitely good to go.

Thrustmaster have finally updated the stock slew sensor in the warthog throttle. The terrible nipple is gone, and they have replaced it with a new one very similar to our upgrade. It seems to be a ‘phantom version’ so if you’re buying a new throttle, there is no way to know for sure if you’re getting the new version. If you get old stock it will still have the old sensor in - but Thrustmaster seem to have been producing the new version since at least October 2022. The new sensor is very similar to our upgrade (I wonder where they got the design inspiration ) it uses a similar style thumbstick, specifically a CK THB Thumbstick: https://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Navigation/THB/ It is mounted in an injection moulded plastic housing, instead of using a front plate and screws to hold it is position like our upgrade, they are using one of the screws that hold the throttle together to wedge it in place from behind. Nothing else significant has changed in the new throttle version, just the slew sensor, so our upgrade is actually still fully compatible. It just might not be worth the upgrade anymore for most people. I haven’t actually been able to get a new throttle myself yet, but thanks to a very generous customer who has provided the below photos for anyone interested:

I have been hearing the rumors TM have update the stock slew, but that Amazon link is the first time I have seen anything 'official' , even if it's just a render. Can you post some picture of your new version throttle? I would be very interested to see.

Sure - STL file is attached. If I remember correctly the holes are modelled slightly undersize so they can be drilled / tapped to the correct size, otherwise the 3D printing process usually doesn’t give a reliable enough tolerance. The bottom hole should be drilled to 2.3mm, and the side hole tapped to metric M3 thread. I still have all the CAD so let me know if you need anything 462 Concave Hat v6.stl

It should work on any throttle, but there probably isn’t much advantage doing it if you haven’t also upgraded the slew. It might make it overly sensitive with the stock slew still installed - but you can always downgrade so feel free to give it a go!

Hello everyone! Since we started making our slew upgrade, one thing that has come up several times is the limited axis update rate for the slew axis. It doesn’t update as quickly as the other throttle axes, which has meant that even after upgrading the physical slew the axis still doesn’t work as well as it could. This was a limitation inside the throttle firmware, so couldn’t be changed by the slew upgrade directly. Other the last few months I have been working on reverse engineering the Warthog throttle firmware, so I could modify it to increase the slew axis speed. I am pleased to announce our first custom Warthog throttle firmware version, which removes this limitation and runs the slew axis at full speed! Delta_Sim_Fast_Slew_v100.tmf is released free of charge, and is compatible with all our slew upgrades, including the force sensor. Please find the firmware file and install instructions attached for download. You will need the Thrustmaster firmware update tool installed to do the update. This comes with the Thrustmaster Warthog driver package, so you probably have it installed already, or it can be downloaded from the Thrustmaster website. This has been a lot of work, so I hope it will be useful to someone Delta_Sim_Fast_Slew_v100.zip

I would say start with no curves set, and test it out in game with small control movements. If you feel like you don’t have enough fine control, increase the curve maybe 5 points at time, and retest until it feels better. Once the curve is set, test at maximum deflection and see how the top speed feels. If you want it slower, adjust down the saturation in the same way - but I would usually stick to 100% saturation for the best movement speed. You shouldn’t need any deadzone set, I would only recommend that if you experience any drift, which you shouldn’t with a new and properly calibrated sensor. I use around 10 - 20 on curve and 100% saturation but it really depends on your personal preference.

I haven’t tried a longer one so I’m not sure how that would be, but I do have a design for a shorter version. STL is attached for short version, and the standard version. The issue with 3D printing is getting the tolerance right so it fits onto the sensor shaft properly - if you have a 3d printer it’s easier, but with shapeways or a similar service it can be hit and miss with their tolerances. ALPSHat V5.stl ALPSHat small v5.stl

With two Arduino Uno boards, both programs should compile as is. I just tested and everything works as it should for me. Can you send me a PM or email with a picture of your setup?

I don’t know why the Sparkfun code is so complicated – I guess they have just made is as versatile as possible so it can be used in many situations – my code just simulates the one config Thrustmaster have used so it doesn’t need the extra complexity. All the basic calibration and scaling is done in the two first lines in void loop, you might want to add something more complex, but it isn’t needed to get it working. The pushbutton isn’t handled over i2c, it’s just connected to a pin, so the slave Arduino doesn’t need to do anythign with it. Attached is the code I use to simulate the throttle and test the units I sell as the master. It’s a bit messy but if load that onto one Arduino, and the Instructables code onto another, they will talk over I2C just like the sensor and throttle – and the master will report the sensor values over serial. tester.ino

I’m glad to hear people are still finding it useful! It’s been a while so I might not remember exactly - but the code on the Instructables should be complete. That is the Arduino version of the code that runs on all the slew sensors I make. What do you think is missing?

That is usually when something has gone wrong during the calibration, please try running the calibration tool again as below: 1: Download the latest version for the calibration tool from my website (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0011/5602/2282/files/Thumbstick_Sensor_Calibration_Tool.zip?11593063595637542780) Make sure you have extracted the zip file after downloading. The "A10_calibration.txt" file must be in the same folder "Throttle Warthog Calibration (V1.07).exe" is run from. 2: Run the calibration tool and carefully follow the on-screen instructions. It should run through all the way through with no error messages. Be careful to move the both the throttles to the OFF, IDLE and MAX positions when asked. OFF is the fully back position over the detent lifts, IDLE is the next stop up or the minimum flight setting, and MAX is fully forward and over any afterburner lift. If you have any custom afterburner detents installed, you may need to temporarily remove them for the calibration. Hopefully that will get you working again.