CyBerkut

Two possibilities come to mind that may be worth looking into. (I have no idea whether either one will solve your problem.) 1. T.A.R.G.E.T. script can recognize dual controllers of the same type, and provide a means to assign different keybinds to them... at least it is possible for dual T16000.M joysticks. I would think it could be done for dual sets of MFDs, but I do not know that for a fact. That may force you to run them all under a single combined virtual controller, in order to accomplish that... I don't know. A couple of examples people have done with dual sticks for other games. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=140093 https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15215 2. A different approach along the lines of a combined virtual controller... Universal Joystick Remapper http://evilc.com/joomla/articles/9-code/autohotkey/1-ujr-universal-joystick-remapper might get you there. I realize your MFDs are not joysticks, but I suspect UJR would allow you to combine them into a single virtual controller and give you access to everything you want. Once again, I don't know that for certain, though. Good luck, and let us know how you solved the problem, when you get it licked!

Gene, what input and output are you looking for? How "clean" does the output need to be?

TriggerHappy's final approach to Force Trim was solenoid based. PeterP is the guy with the expertise on doing the dual MS FFB2.

As far as I know, you still can not have both an FFB Stick and FFB pedals working simultaneously. To make a working Force Trim system for DCS helicoptors, it appears that you're going to need to use solenoids or electromagnets for at least one, or the other controller (if you want both controllers to lock into the trimmed positions).

The power cord on my grey trigger MSFFB2 is as you describe... just like the simple AC power cords typically used to power bricks for laptops.

castAR http://technicalillusions.com/?page_id=197 3 modes of use. Projected Augmented Reality - mini-projectors project on to retro-reflective material. You can still see everything else around you that is not covered by the RR material (such as your HOTAS, keyboard, mouse, hands, friends). Augmented Reality - uses a clip-on attachment to redirect the projection to your eyes, while still allowing you to see through the clip-on to view your surroundings. No RR material needed for that mode, and you could potentially use it while moving through the real world (with some common sense and properly designed applications). Virtual Reality - Uses the clip-on attachment again, but with a cover to occlude your view of the outside world. The initial design for the head tracking is based on a camera (above the nose) picking up one, or more IR LED marker pads. The kickstarter was very successful, and supporters should be receiving their production units in the fall of 2014. Among the stretch goals met was to add a gyroscope for additional (inertial) head tracking inputs, and a magnetometer as another input for head tracking. It will be interesting to see if/when T.I. offers a higher resolution version and at what cost. As I understand it, there are currently higher resolution mini-projectors in existence, but they cost considerably more. I backed the castAR Kickstarter, so I'll have that in the fall. I didn't get in on Occulus Rift, as the initial development version didn't look like it would be worth it to me. It's nice to see they are apparently increasing the resolution, and potentially solving the nausea problems many users were experiencing. If that all pans out, I may spring for a Rift too, depending on timing, cost, etc. As for that Avegant Glyph, it will be interesting to see how it pans out.

Serial: 21257 Location: Somewhere north of St. Petersburg :smilewink:

You can buy a download copy of LOMAC: http://shop.ubi.com/store/ubina/en_US/pd/ThemeID.8605600/productID.180160000 Once you have DCS World installed, you can go directly to installing Flaming Cliffs 3.

I'm pretty sure that with an Arduino, if you do the things necessary to use it as an HID, that those things will preclude it simultaneously being used for non-HID stuff. I am not 100% certain of that, but that is what I remember for the 'Arduino as HID' solution that I saw.

You're most welcome. The arduino / maker scene has all sorts of stuff out there. If you can think of something you wish you could add / connect to an Arduino, odds are very good that other people have also, and that at least one of them designed a shield to accommodate the need. The trick becomes a matter of what to put into the search engine so that you can find it. :) I just saw recently, that there are some new model Arduino's coming out. Basically, combining Arduino with popular microprocessor (Raspberry Pi, Beaglebone) type capabilities. Those are overkill for something like making a switch panel to talk to EOS, I suspect... but maybe suitable for something ambitious that includes graphic display(s).

Are you guys trying to avoid using shields, or would they be incompatible with EOS, or...? Add 64 button inputs: http://www.makershed.com/64_Button_Shield_for_Arduino_p/mkskl11.htm Gain 13 additional digital outputs: http://www.makershed.com/product_p/mkntd1.htm 16-Channel 12-bit PWM/Servo Shield: http://www.makershed.com/16_Channel_12_bit_PWM_Servo_Shield_p/mkad63.htm That's just checking one source real quick. There are other sources thast probably have other options that may be more appealing.

I recently bought a tablet, so I'm scarfing these also. Thanks! I almost missed the goodies down in the spoiler section. FYI, I just noticed that the DCS A-10C GUI Manual EN (crop).pdf file is only coming down as 1.3KB, and not opening properly. Well done, and thanks for sharing this with everyone!

If you can download somebody else's SST profile for the game/sim in question, even if it is for a different Saitek controller, you can then use those command entries for your controller profile. There's info on that in these forums somewhere. Found it. http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=993884&postcount=7 Otherwise, you would normally enter them manually yourself. However, I think it is possible to import a list if it is properly formatted. I seem to recall for instance, somebody getting the command list out of BlackShark 1.0 somehow and then massaging it to be readable by SST. If you attempt that, remain mindful of the need to keep command names (labels) short enough. I think they had to be kept to 16 characters long, or less. If the names are too long, it cause problems for the X-52 / X-52Pro (MFD related, IIRC).

Check out the shipping... "Purchaser pays $1.69 for 1st Class US Postal Service delivery within the US."

The general consensus I've seen posted over the years in the forums is that the CH stuff is VERY reliable, and that their profiling software is as good as it gets. The two knocks (by some) against CH that seems to come up a lot are the close spacing of the pedals, and that the throttle is a linear slider instead of a rotating quadrant style. A few bemoan the lack of any new models in the consumer controller line, too... but the flip side of that is that the current line is well proven, and you typically don't get any unwanted surprises. The Saitek pedals have wider spacing, and they now have three different models to choose from. The difference between those models (AFAIK) is the aesthetics. Internally, the regular and pro versions are the same. I suspect the Cessna style pedals are probably the same inside as well. The Saitek stuff has had quality control issues, it seems, during some time periods. If you're buying from a local brick and mortar store, that could be less of a concern/hassle, if you get something flaky. If you're buying online, that may be a higher concern to you. Saitek's profiling software is not as advanced / flexible as CH's. If you're just using the game's binding assignment menus, then that is of no concern. If you intend to do advanced stuff, either one might do, but CH definitely has the edge. Another consideration.... if you play older games that will only recognize a single controller, the CH software can combine the CH items into a single virtual controller. Saitek software does not have that capability. If you think you may end up modifying the equipment... you'll need to decide what matters to you. You'd be 'risking' lower cost stuff by using Saitek, if that matters to you. A look around on the forums/youtube will find a number of mods done by folks on Saitek. For CH modding, check out Ghost's work, as he has done some very cool things. I'm running Saitek stuff, but I do not knock the CH products line. There are a lot of good things to be said about their approach. What DCS modules, and other sims/games do you intend to run the equipment with?

That's pretty cool, Raf! I never bought one of those panels because they were limited to FSX and X-Plane. I imagine there are more than a few people who would be interested in that. (Hey, maybe Saitek would be willing to throw some hardware at you in exchange for the work, as that could help them sell more of those panels!)

Whichever one you like the best should be OK. With the G940, you have rudder pedals, so that may be a better fit.

Which DCS modules are you intending to run? Both of those HOTAS have profiling software.

If you are looking to use the Arduino as an HID joystick controller, there is this: http://hunt.net.nz/users/darran/weblog/15f92/ Be aware, that mode is probably not compatible with doing the other things on that Arduino card (ie Gadroc's EOS project, etc.).

I'm not really up to speed on the finer points between Arduino versions. I have an Arduino Uno, and I'm wondering if that can fit in to this?

Thanks for posting that up!

Google translate gets part of it, at least: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=zh-CN&tl=en&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http://item.taobao.com/item.htm%3Fspm%3Da1z10.1.w4-1215129815.29.QGr0cv%26id%3D18509001449 http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=zh-CN&tl=en&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http://item.taobao.com/item.htm%3Fspm%3Da1z10.1.w4-1215129815.21.W2dhk3%26id%3D17626843637

Porky, since you essentially keep saying the same things over and over again, and getting the same sort of response/reaction from a number of different people on here... perhaps that should lead you to question either your explanation, or your assumptions. Let's try to bring some new information into this. -What make and model controllers are you using for cyclic and rudder control? - What size deadzones do you have set for those? - While we all understand that you had your stick physically centered, we don't know if your computer saw it as electrically centered. Are you sure your stick was *electrically* centered (ie. within the center deadzone)? If so, how did you ascertain this? - Do you have your rudder controls decoupled (ala PeterP's mod)? - If your rudder controls are not decoupled, are you sure your rudder control was *electrically* centered? If so, how did you ascertain that?

Some follow up / additional info. This is a link to a way to use an Arduino Uno as a joystick HID device, with up to 40 inputs (still short of what you desire). http://hunt.net.nz/users/darran/weblog/15f92/ Edit: Additional info... a 64 button shield for Arduino. I don't know if you can use it in combination with the joystick HID code above. http://www.makershed.com/64_Button_Shield_for_Arduino_p/mkskl11.htm Also, if you get that macetech board, be careful to read the information carefully, as it can fry your Arduino Uno unless you clip a lead on one of the chips.

Arduino can be turned into an HID device, but from what I read on it, it didn't look particularly easy/convenient. There is an Arduino derivative called the Teensy. The Teensy++2.0 variant has a 46 I/O pins. It will work with GenericHID to act as an HID device (might need to be flashed for that). I wouldn't call it 'plug and play', but it's a pretty powerful offering for a mere $24 USD. Note that I am not claiming it can give you 46 inputs as an HID device... you'll need to read up on it, and GenericHID to see what it will do for you. At that price, if you need 2 of them, it's not real painful. http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/ You can compare the various Teensy versions there, and find links to all related subjects/code/answers. I'm pretty sure that the analog inputs are not as high of a resolution as the Bodnar boards are. Keep that in mind if you start contemplating using one for a stick (or whatever) project.