ElCuco68

Thanks again ! Hey I was wondering: For now, until I can afford a waterblock/cooling loop setup, I took 2 of Noctua's top of the line 120mm fans and sandwiched the graphics card's little radiator in a push/pull arrangement, or at least I think I did.I've got both the arrows on the side and the labeled noses of the fans facing into the case, using their full gaskets on the sides contacting the radiator. Only problem is that the fans have a 4-wire PWM arrangement, and the wire coming out of the pump that used to connect to the old fan is a 3-contact connector with 2 wires, so I connected the fans to a high-amperage chassis fan outlet on the board. Oddly enough, I can barely feel air moving from the inside part of this arrangement (feel a barely-detectable suction on the outside). Given the quality of the fans, I would have expected more. Is it possible that one of the fans could be "out of phase", or is this a bad header to connect it to? I also noticed that the inside of the case is hotter than Hell when I run a benchmark, yet I'm not feeling hot air blowing out the back, so I've been taking the side panel off until I can get to the bottom of all this. I have 9 fans all together, all blowing into the case, with a vent in the back (too small to put an exhaust fan, unfortunately).I've got three 120mm fans blowing in from the bottom, a new 200mm blowing in from the front, a 120mm, along with 2 more 120s on the CPU's radiator blowing in from the top, and two 120s blowing in through the GPUs radiator from the top-rear. Some of these are PWM, and connected to the board's chassis fan headers, while a couple of the 3-wires are connected to some kind of a splitter that is connected both to the second CPU fan header, the CPU pump is connected to the AIO pump header and usb 2.0, etc. Is there a better connection or orientation scheme that I should be using? Also: Why does Speccy say that my 3200MHz RAM is only 1072 Mz?

Sorry; really went to town on this! So, it works! Right now, I'm re-downloading stuff. BitMaster; I was looking for the thread where I could swear you were telling me not to use drivers & stuff from the ASUS MB disk. Would you mind telling me again which drivers & utilities, etc that you think I should download?

Oh, and how about these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGK8PWR/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DGK8PWR&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=4b9303cf-595a-449a-b0d6-15d3b199056d&pf_rd_r=31EQ7CB39FKMDGY2R8C3&pd_rd_wg=J88pM&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=DuxpX&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=943ce00a-b5dc-11e8-bcdb-932140fb8169 https://www.amazon.com/Enzotech-Graphics-Passive-Copper-8-pack/dp/B002BWXW6E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1536681895&sr=8-9&keywords=vram+heatsinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RHHYCM?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&pf_rd_p=e02fad04-102b-460a-af2f-d0ddb4b3b6d6&pf_rd_r=57df3242-3e6d-4b94-969a-be9ce64eaad6&pd_rd_wg=gENvx&pf_rd_s=desktop-huc-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_i=B073RHHYCM&pd_rd_w=b63ID&pf_rd_i=desktop-huc-carousels&pd_rd_r=57df3242-3e6d-4b94-969a-be9ce64eaad6&ref_=pd_luc_rh_crh_rh_sim_02_02_t_ttl_lh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BPPFN8?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&pf_rd_p=e02fad04-102b-460a-af2f-d0ddb4b3b6d6&pf_rd_r=57df3242-3e6d-4b94-969a-be9ce64eaad6&pd_rd_wg=gENvx&pf_rd_s=desktop-huc-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_i=B077BPPFN8&pd_rd_w=b63ID&pf_rd_i=desktop-huc-carousels&pd_rd_r=57df3242-3e6d-4b94-969a-be9ce64eaad6&ref_=pd_luc_rh_crh_rh_sim_02_01_t_ttl_lh I like shopping.

I currently have my EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 set up like this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487377 and I was contemplating setting it up like this: https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-FC1080-FTW3-Waterblock-Nickel/dp/B07CVSL8W4/ref=pd_cart_vw_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CVSL8W4&pd_rd_r=06FF3G6T9DFKNB7JM1CZ&pd_rd_w=6NcLy&pd_rd_wg=xHYLb&psc=1&refRID=06FF3G6T9DFKNB7JM1CZ Or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BZ4MYWC/ref=psdc_3015422011_t2_B07662S6GL What do you think? My philosophy, when it comes to putting my dingus on my wife's chopping block by re-mortgaging the house for computer parts (not really, BTW), is that I'd might as well go the whole 9 yards and do it up right, if it's something that will yield results. Of course, that means using a waterblock on the CPU as well, replacing the Corsair H100i currently on it, so I'm wondering if that's also a worthwhile move? Thanks !

Okay, all components are here, including a brand-new motherboard, and a half-dozen of Noctua's top-of-the-line 120mm fans for push/pull and another 200mm case fan. Shutting down power in T-minus 60 seconds. I'll see you on the other side! I feel like a 14-year-old in a whorehouse.

Okay, first thing you do is carefully unpack those jewels. Hold them one in each hand. Got them? Now, throw them in the trash. You should be using nothing less than USP-grade liquid nitrogen on that card. BOLO for one of those hospital gas trucks that goes to the minor surgery clinics. They can be stubborn, so bring a handgun. It wouldn't hurt to look disheveled and desperate, too.

I'm going to definitely check it out. Yeah, I had a similar usage pattern with the setup I'm currently upgrading from. With an FX-8350 and the 1080Ti, I was getting about 40% usage on both the CPU and GPU. EDIT: Just downloaded BOS. Wow!

This is what I sent to the CPU guy. Waiting on an answer: New message to: godsarmyforever "Hi Nick. How does this sound? How about you continue to get the information from the Hardwareswap guy (including his screen name), and in the meanwhile, I will hook this up to the new Asus ROG Maximus X board I'm getting on Monday, as well as my Corsair H100i water cooler. I'll function-test it on normal settings, then carefully work it up, step-wise, to 5.2 and 1.41V(these are the specs he quoted in the bid page), eventually running Prime95's smallfft test for 24 hours (I'll get a very experienced expert's help) and see where that takes us, and if it's stable at that point, I say that it's as-advertised? I think that's the best resolution for both of us, and we can both be happy. What do you think?" If he doesn't agree, I'll ask for a refund, and I'll buy Si Lottery's delidded 5.2 for $509.

This is the exchange: " Thank you, Philip. You're a gentleman, and I'm grateful for your understanding. I can definitely understand financial pressure, and hope that you can understand that I have too much of my family's money tied up in this system to risk it with an iffy board. I share some culpability, in that I could have done better homework. Thank you again. flip-an-item Hello, Please forgive me for the misunderstanding. I have accepted your return request for the "Arrived Damaged" mobo. If you have any other questions please ask. I did not mean to offend you in any way, just business here is hard and not very profitable. I tried to make the best of it. Thank you for your understanding, Phillip. neeners168: I was told by these repairmen that there is no need: that even if it boots, the bent pins will compromise the integrity of the CPU (putting my $400 delidded, binned, lapped i7 8700K in danger of being destroyed) and the system, making it less stable, and that it will eventually fail. But I'm pretty sure you know this. And by the way: This board sells for $249 on Amazon, not $300. $150 for a $250 board that is destined to fail is no bargain. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't spend $50 on this board. flip-an-item Hello, I have a quick question before I contact eBay today. Have you even tried to boot it up and run some overclocking tests? How do you know a 300$ motherboard is as bad as you proclaim it is? Let me know I am really interested to hear from you.

Well, the MB guy apologized, and accepted the return request, so I graciously accepted his apology, and told him that I wish I could shoulder the risk, but it's just too much money for the risk that something will eventually go wrong.

He says he got it off of a subreddit called Hardwareswap.

Yeah, I'm thinking of just ordering one from Si Lottery if I'm not feeling less anxious about this one very soon.

I'm trying to politely work it out with the CPU guy. He didn't shoot his mouth off to me like the MB scam artist did. He says he bought it from a guy off Reddit, who got it from Silicon Lottery, and that he's going to get him to send me some documentation. I was prepared to take him at his word, but when the chip arrived looking like this, I thought "Now why would he send out a $400 jewel looking like this, and is this indicative of how he must have cared for it before sending it out to a stranger for a significant sum of money?"

He's being cagey with answering my questions about this chip. I'm asking him for any documentation he can provide, and all I'm getting is that he knows it was done properly because he tested it.

Picture of 8700k I forgot the picture. This is the alleged delidded, lapped, binned 5.2 at 1.41V CPU.

God, life is hard when you're a gullible moron like me. This just arrived, and now red flags are going up. Please tell me this isn't as bad as it looks: You know what it is? Despite having a 141 IQ, I'm naive about being overtrusting. I have a very rigid code of ethics, have never, ever swindled anyone, and so I have an innate tendency to take things I'm told at face value. I wish I had just waited, and paid $470 for a 5.2 chip from Silicon Lottery.

Oh, and this before his last message (this is from him): " New message from: flip-an-item (63Blue Star) Sir, I have so many questions right now. My listing was clear that there IS CPU damage and I also wrote that it has been tested to be fully functional. I did nothing wrong any eBay can go through these messages and my listing and they will see that I did nothing wrong. I am just confused why you are mad at me." I can just see this guy, running phone scams from some sweatshop in Calcutta.

So, I talked to a repairman, and he basically said the same thing as you. Here's the 4 exchanges between me and this jackass. How would you answer the last (top) message?: New message from: flip-an-item (63Blue Star) "Hello, I have a quick question before I contact eBay today. Have you even tried to boot it up and run some overclocking tests? How do you know a 300$ motherboard is as bad as you proclaim it is? Let me know I am really interested to hear from you." Reply Your previous message Me: "I'm going to complain to ebay. Hopefully, this will result in you getting blacklisted. YOU assured ME that this was not a problem, and that was a LIE!" flip-an-item: His response to my first message (what a D!@K !) "Sir, You read the description and agreed to buy it. This is not my problem if you don’t like it. I am telling you that everything works. I don’t full understand why you are telling me this information." Your previous message My first message to him:"I was just told by two different computer repairmen that a MB with bent CPU pins is an absolute, unequivocal no-go, especially since I plan to overclock."

Yes, this whole venture was too expensive as it was, so I had to do everything I could to shave off cost. The man assured me that it would have absolutely zero impact; what do I know? Anyway, I requested a return, and I ordered a brand-new one from Amazon, to be delivered monday, with 4-year extended warranty ($5.00). God, so many $hitbags on ebay!

I went to some site that sells a-la carte systems for VR, and putting together a system with the components and accessories I have, excluding software, costs $4500 (!). I didn't have to spend nearly this much by scouring ebay and various retailers.

I haven't set it up yet, but I'll definitely let you know. From what I've been able to gather, the 8700K is pretty much on the bleeding edge of the point of rapidly diminishing returns, particularly because it's frequency that we're really after with DCS and VR, rather than core count. I've also been given to understand that the 2080Ti will give a somewhat modest improvement (or at least that's the speculation at this point), but that at this time it would be difficult for most people to justify spending twice what you can get a good 1080Ti for now. I've heard that there's some new tech, Ray-Shading or something to that effect, that requires this new card, but that this hasn't had time to get any sort of footing yet.

As far as cooling the box: as it stands, I have 1 fan blowing thru the graphics card, another mounted in the back that blows through the card's radiator, then out the back, another 2 pulling air in from the top through the CPU's Corsair H100i radiator, one through the PSU, another small one at the top front, and a medium sized one pulling air in through the bottom front. Seems like I should squeeze another couple fans in somewhere, maybe. What would you buy, and how would you do it? How would you cool the memory and NVMe? Also, I ended up getting windows 10 pro on a DVD, along with the license label and a piece of the original computer's hardware (usually a broken drive, to comply with Microsoft's terms), but it's not arriving till late next week. I doubt I want to wait that long, so can I download 10 pro, then activate it fully when the license comes?

This thing has a wifi, but I already have a wireless router (Netgear AC-1900) that my phones occasionally use, and my printer uses. Would you just not use the MB's wifi?

When you say burn it in, do you mean run benchmarks like from Prime95 or Ungine's Superposition? How do you go about loading these: Intel Chipset Intel Management Engine Nvidia driver Intel Rapid Storage Driver & GUI NVMe driver for your Toshiba if available + Software then you can take any order you want LAN/WLAN Audio BT ....in that order? How do you go about OC-ing, personally? Would you use Asus' OC utilities? Should I look at the names of the drivers on the disk, then go to Asus directly and install the newest drivers from the start?

I have a bunch of questions already, but I'll start with this one: I bought a discountede board ($100 off), because the company that sells them does "Seller refurbished" boards. Many, like mine, have a few bent cpu pins. He tests them, and tells whether they boot flawlessly, boot but with certain issues, or fail to boot and are for parts. Mine was advertised as being able to boot flawlessly with no issues. What do you think? Could this be okay normally, but end up being problematic while OC-ing, or down the road with normal use?