TomVR
最新回复 发布由 TomVR
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Thanks to my incredible patreons and PCBWay I’ve reached the milestone of having a complete electrical guide!
I've also got a bonus in this video, a complete kit for mounting the stick to any office chair. This could be adapted for other joysticks too! Keep your eyes out for updates on my youtube, github and patreon!
Here is the previous video build guide on how to put the mechanical parts together:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdYbF5dOYag
You can download the files directly from my github page, including STEP files: https://github.com/RightRudderLeftStick/OpenSource-VeryBigStick
All the parts are 100% open source (CC BY-SA 2.0) so feel free to remix, redesign, Just please share them with the community!
The electrical setup supports both freejoy and MMJOY2
It uses cheap commodity components like 608 Skateboard bearings and 6003 bearings (common in power tools) and is almost entirely 3D printed (PETG) with a 0.6 nozzle and using common 2020 extruded aluminum bars.
My goal for the project is by using entirely commodity parts, I can keep the entire final bill of materials under 150 USD! Designed for the core to be printed on an Ender 3 with a single 1KG roll of PETG and add-ons can be printed in PLA+
Supporting my patreon will allow me to buy filament, hardware, bearings and electronics Also get early access to in-progress files, and at a higher tier have your name engraved into the gimbal itself.
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edit: nevermind I forgot the pins IDs in mmjoy2 arent the ones printed. my A2/A3 CS pins where F4/F5.
Also mmjoy2 can only do the 14bits from the TLE5010, not the full 16? -
Working with the aliexpress TLE5011 and cannot get anything to work with mmjoy2.
I'm following this config with a pro micro and I just get link errors and no data.
This is the TLE5010 board im using.
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Don't know anything about how it performs, but the lack of an emergency E-stop switch is very concerning.
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Does MMJOY2 not work at all on windows 11? I tried opening up (v20160818upd1) and it doesn't display any window and then the troubleshooter comes up to ask if the app installed correctly. Trying to run in any compatibility mode doesn't make a difference.
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I'm actually interested in making an F-104 grip for the coming module. Is the airbrake switch latching in the front and back positions, momentary or latching forward and momentary back?
Also how much travel does the switch have?
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On 3/13/2019 at 5:27 AM, Thadiun Okona said:
Hehe, no not to put in the hydraulic damper, to use instead of one or to supplement it so that you can run the hydraulic at minimum resistance.
I have one of those hydraulic dampers, and also make adjustable tension friction rub joints and the quality of the kinematics of a generous amount of surface area is actually better than the hydraulic damper.
I assumed my damper was a lemon, so did some homework and bought some synthetic 10 weight motorcycle fork oil after reading up on motorcycle forums. Mine also has sticktion, that gets worse with higher resistance. I'm hoping the bleed/refill makes it start behaving, otherwise I'm sticking with my mechanical dampers.
Here's an album of a positioning joystick I made for MWO in 2012 https://imgur.com/a/ixi64. Towards the middle of the album is a breakdown of the simple friction joints. I used it emulating absolute mouse, and it was totally viable playing against kbm warriors, due to the precision of the damping and Nyogel made it from from good to great.
The stiction thing is hit or miss, I have one damper thats perfect, finger tip movement, and another two from the same seller bought a month later that are basically friction brakes, useless garbage.
I am looking to get them serviced somewhere, maybe they need new oil. -
Would you sell me just the grip? I don't need a throttle for this project.
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23 hours ago, Wikikomoto said:
Okay so thats an arduino micro, so that narrows it down that its either running MMJOY2 or custom arduino code. I'd suggest asking on the mmjoy2 thread if anyone can ID it directly and try and get the firmware flashed off of it.
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Hi, I'm working on this open source 3d printable gimbal which plans to support TM grips natively
(Files available now on our github: https://github.com/RightRudderLeftStick/OpenSource-VeryBigStick )
I want to track down a TM grip that we can validate with. Something that fits the Warthog/F-18/cougar/virpil standard with the M36x2 threaded mount and PS/2 style connector. As we develop the electrical plans and need a grip to prototype with. Anything that works regardless of cosmetic condition would be great, so in theory even an old cougar would work, but the best would be a warthog since it has the most inputs to test against.
This will be funded by our patreon:
https://www.patreon.com/RightRudderLeftStick
In theory one with a broken bottom neck would work, since we actually don't need to use it, just to test the electrical and buttons.
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Since its a homemade stick do you have any idea what electronics its using? Is it MMJOY2, freejoy, Leo Bodnar board or something custom?
Can you take a picture of the pcb? If you know what it's controlled with it's possible to try and flash the firmware
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I think that's just a limitation of that kind of alps switch, and you are suppose to use logic in hardware to detect when its just push or its push+direction. Which is a bit of a pain for us if we want to just drop in compatibility with a shift register.
This 8-way from alps I believe doesn't have that issue. It is a different size though so not a drop in replacement. -
On 9/26/2020 at 10:49 AM, Sergey_Pe said:
Wrong. Calibration always needs to be done for the actual angle- this is exactly what it's done for. Otherwise you won't get a full range of OUTPUT signal for the particular axis. However the INPUT signal with the 360 deg. sensor will be much smaller, so much of the ADC resolution will be lost, as you correctly mentioned.
I would strongly recommend using AS5600 sensor- calibrating it after installation (before MMJoy calibration) you'll get a full 0-5V voltage swing for any angle more than 18 degrees without any hassle with the magnet/ sensor positioning as with SSxx or Allegro sensors.
I am losing my mind trying to program an as5600 in 3 wire mode. I remove the R4 resistor on the aliexpress pcb to enable analog mode. I then wire up vcc, out and ground. Then I get the gpo (pgo) pin to ground. The out goes to high as expected. Then I go to the start position. Short out to ground and then disconnect (float the pin) and then turn clockwise to the end position, short out to ground and then float the out pin again… and then reconnect everything and the range is unaffected but now the chip programming is burnt and cant be redone.
Wasted 3 ships so far and only got 2 unused left (for my two axis stick) so really want to figure out what I am doing wrong before I try again. -
On 6/14/2021 at 2:28 PM, Sergey_Pe said:
Well, I've finally installed an AS5600 magnetic sensor into Saitek throttle. A small round magnet (approximately the diameter of a lever bearing which was cut flush with the lever body) was super-glued to the lever, working as a new bearing. A small circular PCB with AS5600 was hot-glued in place of a stock resistor as seen on the picture. Then AS5600 was calibrated to provide a full output voltage swing within a lever movement angle. Of course it works like a charm, as expected. The trick is to find a a magnet with the appropriate diameter (I had one as a leftover from one of the old projects).
What is your programming process for 3 wired more? Tried to do it and bricked 3 sensors
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another great reference is this photogrammetry can someone did ages ago of a static display
https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/mcdonnell-douglas-f-4-phantom-ii-65e172a92b6d4783892b6c9dc1b1a4bc
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That throttle grip seems to be shared among the century series fighters too. Would love to try and replicate for 3D printing.
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On 11/25/2022 at 4:58 PM, No1sonuk said:
Maybe have a rubber tube under the existing button to give more resistance?
Oh no! The whole appeal of these kind of switches is the clean “break”. They barely move until they snap into actuation. So much more tactile and deliberate. A spring would just make it mushy and bad
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15 hours ago, rel4y said:
Nice, that's exactly the same solution I came up with. Only I used the expensive switches from Knitter (MPS 103F) and printed the hat part as well. Now I am gonna order a bunch of these from Ali to test. Great work!
I wonder if there are different weights that exist in this form factor, option for a heavier switch would be nice.
The red cap is exactly 1:1 to the dimensions of the P1 switch Cad model from OTTO I have, which was a very nice happenstance -
The famous (and expensive) P1-1 OTTO Pushbutton, now replicated using a 6mm threaded tact button from Aliexpress and then 3d printed ring to go around it
This is the exact store page I bought the switch from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004689177372.html
I've also updated one with a "hidden flange" where there is a 1mm lip around the edge and the tube is slightly undersized, for putting into holes where you want to glue it at the top and not have it fall through. (some B8 Grips)
Here is the thingiverse page
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5654238-
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Hempstick.... has returned! -
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On 4/25/2022 at 4:10 AM, propeler said:
Do not hurry! I prety sure that I know what the gimbal inside of it and I can say that it has one serios drawback. That type of gimbal when made from plastic simply can not be done stiff and rigid enouhg to handle high torque. Experiments of other guys here in the topic and my experience showed it. Thats why this
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was turned into this:
I get what you are saying, I think any forces that can cause the printed gimbal to fail are beyond what is reasonably safe for a "game controller"
I mean we aren't trying to build hand crushing device.-
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MMjoy
在 PC Hardware and Related Software
发布于
Released this project with the primary base being MMJOY2