TomVR

Using the parameters I can add pilot holes for the wood screws into the PETG, Once I've got the design a little more polished up, and get new buildtak for the printer Im gonna put out some test pieces for fitment/tolerances

dsub connectors are also very cheap and come in all sorts of sizes.

Why not just put the suncom onto the T16000? ages ago I cut down the base of one (which was a lot of work) put it inside a round electrical box, and then put a CH fighter stick onto the top of it. Just had to require the buttons from the base into the stick If you have a hand at remixing stls & 3D printing, you could use this extension as a base and then extend it as needed, and then use some of of these different hatswitch designs to build out the missing 4 ways. 1, 2, 3* (third one is my design based on the CH sticks)

first pass on my adjustments https://github.com/TomHVR/FFB-Joystick-Base/tree/master/CAD I've got the holes for the countersunk M3 screws as parameters so they can be adjusted either for putting in brass inserts or tapping directly. I also want to design cam and rollers like the object-77b as a counterweight, as the grip I am putting on is from a Tornado GR4 and is very heavy casted aluminum, and having spring centering will both reduce the strain on the motors and let me test the stick before getting the motors running. I when I have some time again I'm also gonna add a parameter to adjusting the tolerances on the tabs since there is zero in the design as the laser would be adding a bit of space for them to slip together. Also the plywood causes conflict with the PULLEY_70T_Hollow components, did you create a 3mm spacer for them?

great! I am wondering what makes more sense, to design the holes for the screws for brass inserts, or just have a cutout for T slots for nuts. From what I understand the t slots are great if someone wants to do it in metal, but are actually not very structurally sound in plastic. Thing is the brass inserts then don't really translate to metal, and they are weak in pullout force. Edit: though I guess if someone is going to do metal, they'd just go back to OG design and get the edges folded anyway. I think I am just gonna have tappable holes for the countersunk screws and then inserts for the bearings flanges

Do you have this in a CAD format? I am a madman thinking about trying to 3D print this with an 0.8 nozzle, would make some changes to the design for better assembly of printed panels

did a scan of the TM hornet ages back for the Openhornet project: If you want to use that as a ref too https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/tm-f-18grip-obj-scaled-7f11bfc9c02b4115a3a81e5b3d6bf309

night and day difference with my extremely tired 6700k (overclocked to 4.6ghz)

tapping holes in metal is a DIY maker rite of passage. Just get some practice pieces and my god use tapping oil EDIT: for a better time get the wholes watercut undersized and then drill them out by hand so you know they are the right diameter for the tapping.

I tihnk you'd still want the belts for gear reduction and also safety. (belts will slip before your wrist will dislocate)

It's in the left console.sldasm assembly. You can open it with the free edrawings software.

My work around has been to split my device in two with separate arduino boards and not exceeding the 32 button limit

Great, looking forward to a 100% open ffb stick design. I've got a huge ass cast aluminum Tornado grip that I really want to built onto a FFB base, and it's very heavy so will need all the torque I can get. https://streamable.com/7sfttr

Are your problem buttons also beyond the 32 button range? I might end up splitting my device with a second arduino to just make it two USB devices under the 32 button Dinput limit and not have the problem anymore. (using shift registers in a daisy chain so I can split them up)

replicas for real military simulators have good references http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f18throttle.htm I also scanned mine from years back (this was a desktop mounted simulator setup from highrevsims) https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/fa-18-super-hornet-throttle-grips-741c3b6d01314ed6b7897d1103d8b15a

If you ever break the plastic I believe these will fit in. (I used a knockoff of the CH stick to design the parts) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944

Any plans to put that firmware on the github? Would be nice to have an entirely standalone FFB device not requiring donor hardware, especially with the joystick costs on ebay right now.

Got rid of both my MSFFB2 right before the pandemic unfortunately. I have an OG MSFBB1 collecting dust in the junk pile, but unfortunately even with a gameport adapter the joystick uses a friggin camera for x/y/z position data, so no way to wire in external hall effect sensors. Is there any work on a separate standalone board that handles the generation of FFB effects? I know there has been talk for years of Freejoy doing something with FFB, but no movement in awhile there.

What is the firmware/software that everyone is using to drive these setups? Is there an arduino handling the code to emulate the directx ffb effects or some external software calculating the forces?

The only things I have a special configuration are a few toggle switches much further up in the button set and encoders. The buttons having issues are just normal buttons (And can't be set as custom functions anyway as they are beyond 32) I've attached the setup file. f18quad_20210418.mmjoy f18quad_20210418.mmjoy_HID_txt

Okay here is one that's been pulling my hair out. I have some buttons (40, 50, 49, 36 42) connected via a shift register (CD4021) that in the mmjoy2 interface work perfectly fine, but then in VKB joytester these buttons working extremely intermittently, like if I spam them very rapidly they will fire, but just toggling them on I get nothing. I guess it's a software issue? Using Version 20160818 Is it a bugged setup?

Why not include fans in the design? Early MSFFB sticks had internal fans

Hope you are not in the EU or hempstick will hunt you down like a dog and kill you Seriously though the build looks great, the quality of the print is excellent, did you get it SLS printed?

edit nvm found the post

I think the market for this is for military customers using prepar3d or something similar. Don't forget there is no two seater F-35, so they need a lot of simulators to do training with at all levels of fidelity (from ipads training the screen interface to full dome motion cockpits)