Mr_Burns

Im considering a pro because my track clip can be very tempramental - it loses the track, makes me look behind me, i have to sit very close to keep it stable and then sometime i just get 2 red light on the track ir and it stops all together. I do have a ceiling light behind me but its pretty dull energy saving one. Thiank imgoing to make my own though to see if its better, its p155ed nme off so mych Ive reverted to the POV Hat before because it starts juttering as I lookd down into the cockpit to prepare my weapons or look at the targeting pod.

Slight off topic question, if I wanted to build one for a Hawk - how do you point helios at Hawk? Do you need to do some background coding?

Is it possible to show how you can take an Arduino (the large one) and make it handle say every AA-10 gauge by expanding it? I saw like your third post, these are about 8 inputs right which is not enough for even the ACHP? Thanks

I would rather have stuck with the swimming pool......NOT!!!! That is awesome!

Guys, I'm rebuilding my home build CNC. One thing I have problems with is this. I make the tool paths to cut the panel, maybe have to turn the panel over to cut recesses, paint it, then replace it to allow the engraving path. If I cut out a panel I have clamped or used double sided tape to hold the large piece I'm cutting it from, but how do I get the panel in exactly the same place every time so the underside and most important, engraving is perfect?? Thanks for any tips (not a laser, a router btw).

He Gremlin, that Ardion/Ethernet setup has blown my mind, did you learn that from here or is that your sphere? I know nothing about that but wouldn't mind learning to move away from GGG controllers if necessary. Thanks

I agree with this, when someone put such hard work into making this sim what it is for me I would like to repay my gratitude. Just to make it clear and I love DCS and don't want to be seen as a naysayer, study sims are great, but without truly realistic campaigns I just can't get into it. I am a Single Player and despite (is it 10 years now from lomac) that mission editor has not rocked my world, I must have downloaded terabytes of DCS patches and it's still the same. People like you sir (Baltic) make this sim for me, so I would just as well pay for mission content as aircraft. I just hope that if there is something DCS can do to the mission editor to help you make the campaigns even better they do it!

Question, I use a startup button cos I cant b bothered flipping all the switches, but I can't change from ramp start to runway start in the mission editor. Any way to do this? Second, it has happened a few times on 2 missions, halfway through the start up I get a mastervwarningband the mfd shutoff. Is this a random failure?

Can you imagine how hard it would be to land this vertically!! I would love this jet, CAS, fast and from the sea. Oh yes!

That looks awesome - do you have a build breakdown and photographic journey?

I opened mine up cos I got glue in it, don't think you will find that loose wire but good Luck! Oh and snarf as others, no issues with them (except my own glue accident). One other thing you can do, if you have a wider screen monitor >23" you can stick them in the bottom of you monitor similar to where they are on the aircraft and export the views skitter says above using easy monitor. I had it for a while like that with no issues.

Yeah drawer runners is a good idea. I just picked up some from our local DIY shop for a CNC im building, they are really sturdy. The way ive done mine is to put them either side of a square length of wood. This wood could make up the back of your stand. Then I made a U piece from MDF, the two sides of the U connect to the drawer slides and you attach your monitor to the flat bit. You could drill a couple of holes in the wood and use a lock ot something to hold it at different levels. Problem with that would the pole would have to be as high as the uppermost position. Unless you could lock it from underneath. This is a really small pic, its not mine, but see how this is, instead of the bit that goes up and down one here (the Z axis) im thinking reverse it, so that bit in the middle is the Post and the U shaped bit that is on the axis that moves left to right moves up and down.

I agree with this, had 3 x 23 and a 18 inch, it zapped my performance, I loved it, but to be honest with a track-ir, I rarely used much of the 2 outside screens. Im going to get a bigger main screen eventually, because they are the same size but one is behind the other it looks like the lower screen is bigger than the top one. Still framerates went up to 60. :joystick:

Im sure he wont mind me using his pic, this is hegykc who is making these, look on the Input thread under F18 Grip. Look at the stick design, it has a square steel and adjustable, I know its not holding a monitor and its only a render but you can buy those locking nuts to hold it. What about this: http://www.diy.com/departments/varnished-steel-square-tube-h25mm-w25mm-l2m/254156_BQ.prd 25mm square steel, 2 meter length, but the product below it is 20mm, that should fit nicely inside. They also sell plastic square fittings so you could make like a frame so its a bit more sturdy. You could cut say 2 x 10cm of 25mm, drill them to fit a locking bolt attach them to a piece of wood say 15cm apart and drill the wood with vesa holes so it fits on the back of the monitor. You can then mount 2 x 20cm vertical rails, slide the monitor over, fix off the top of the rails with 2 plastic corners and a 15cm piece of steel tube across the top. I would think that you should either support the vertical bars that the top monitor is running on where your 'runners' do need to run. Wow hard to explain, but lets say you vertical bar is 50 cm from desk to top, but the lowest point the monitor slides down to is 10 cm from the desk, make sure you pack them out with wood. I think it will really help with the stability. I recon if you waxed the bar they will be ok but you may be able to wrap them in some adhesive tape to pack it?

If you know the benq model you might be able to find a schematic on line for the vesa location. I cut out some ply and mdf blocks to fit to the vesa mount, you will need some longer screws but they are available in b&q type places. What this gives you is the ability to screw other wood and brackets to monitor so you don't need vesa location holes. You can use pipe clamps (look like the omega sign) I lined them with garden hose for a snug fit. This way you could use 2x2.5mm if you were worried about the weight? That was 2cm pine, it was for a shelf in my daughters room by needs were more.

I would give it a test though, those LCD screens can look funny if not at the right angle, I have found myself trying to look over the hud! I tried to make a monitor stand out of steel plumbing pipe, you can get it in B&Q (assume your UK?) and using the connectors to get various shapes including something like that flange you showed, its pretty sturdy stuff and then you could probably get a galvanized steel fence post which will fit over the top, might be a bit noisy adjusting it, perhaps you can line it with a poly tube of similar diameter? Square tube possible easier to work with for the diyer as you can do more precise drilling and create home made brackets to easily screw into it. With regards to being unable to screw into the desk/wall, you could mount it all on a separate piece of wood which sits on to of your desk, providing it is wide enough it will be just as stable. Just add one other thing, sorry about these crappy picture but this is mine: 2 x Dell 23 inch above and below config: Top on with stand just sits on the "shelf" bottom one without stand is attached to cutout on the shelf: The shelf is just a pine board with 4 treated pine legs: Make it in 20 minutes, put some carpet tiles on the desk to protect it? I added some home made panels, you can make the shelf wider than the monitors for speakers, panels, cup holders. Probably you 20 quid and be running today. This will give you a good starting platform whilst you think about the pole - its also sturdy as, which monitor mounts (homemade) can be far from!

Mate your not a consumer until you have bought it. They are not stringing anyone along either, facts are facts.

Hey, I play with 2 monitors and leave them as they they are without altering when not playing. I built a shelf 21cm up from my desk and the top monitor sits on that, I then took the stand off the lower monitor and screwed a piece of wood to it and mounted it on the shelf on a hinge. The hinge allows you to store stuff behind your monitor and also gives access to the power and HMDI leads. The lower monitor sits flush with the desktop and finished just under the top screen on the stand. Its perfect as additional desktop but you can turn it off if its distracting. The problem you might encounter with your design is if your top monitor is not at eye level, then you will looking up to fly if normal eye level is when the monitor is lowered, its not good (I have done it on one design). This may also be vice versa when lowered, looking down, gotta watch your posture now! You definitely want the lower monitor below eye level. Of course you may have an adjustable chair but just a thought, perhaps mock the levels up with books or something to make sure you like it. Other idea I had was to cut a hole in the desk so you could mount your lower monitor lower, perhaps you could put the wood cut from the hole back in to restore your desk and hide most of the lower monitor when not in use? Keep us posted on how you go!

I think that was mine, Vic 20 right? Dad had the controls, sister had the flaps on the Fkeys, i think I had throttle.... Amazing when we landed it...once.

That's a great idea with the moulds!

Can you show a pick of how you do the buttons? Do you paint white acrylic, engrave then cut and then paint the rest of the now cut acrylic masking off the face? Or do you cut them leaving small amounts of acrylic holding the buttons in place, sprat them then engrave them? I struggled with mine because when I cut the button the jumped up out of the acrylic and jammed the engraver, I had to stand there holding each button in place until the engraver mov d off and then take the button away?

How are you doing the buttons if I may ask?

Reputation, the green bar under your name. I suppose it shows you the community appreciate you and your voice, your work, and contributions. If you have a high rep, you are probably taken more serious. I'm sure there are other reasons but it's also another way of saying thanks.

Rep inbound, helps when you fly other jets for a while then go back, thank you for your work!

Wonder if they are cleaning out old stock ready for DCS2 and a new pricing structure?