rabidscoobie

Ive been using Helios for a few years now for f18,f16,f14 and have no issues getting the MFD's to show up on my 12" screen. Lately Ive been learning the warbirds, mainly the P47 and well Im trying to display some of the gauges on my 12" screen. Some gauges I had no issue getting to work like the Altitude,manifold Pres,Rpms but I cant get the speed to work right. Its displaying almost 100 mph slower than in game. I tried to use Capt Zeens P51 profile to reverse build that gauge but no luck there either. Anyway know what Im missing here or how to correct this? Also another question. With helios and using my profiles I built for the MFD's in modern modules I do not need to use the Helios Control Center. I just start the game and any module I load up with MFD is automatically loaded. This isnt true when flying warbirds and trying to use the gauges, I have to use Control Center to get the gauges to display. Is that just the nature of Helios or am I also missing something here? In DCS settings I have my monitor profile set to my current profile that is set for 4 screens and works automatically for any mfd profiles I setup in Helios without control center, like I said same isnt true for the P47 gauges. Again any help would be great. Thanks.

So in the teasers for the new map they are showing a lot of the F-15E, any news on how soon thats coming?

I'll have to try that. I'd like to put the f16 fuel gauge like you mentioned since it's in an odd place. I wouldn't mind have the DED there also,small font sometimes is hard for me to see. Just to clarify, things like the mfd is a viewport while gauges are not? Thanks I'll give your suggestion a go,I'm just not very familiar with Helios all that well.

I've played dcs for awhile now and use a 27" monitor with 2 7" monitors for my TM MFD's which work great using Helios. But I also have a 2nd 27" monitor that I use to keep discord and other similar apps on. What I'm wondering if is possible with my setup to use only a small portion of my 2nd 27" monitor to add a couple small viewports for say Tacan and DED ports and keep the remainder for my mentioned apps windows? I'm no pro with helios and only used it enough for my mfd screens. I have a feeling it's not possible. I'm open to solutions without adding any more monitors. Thanks.

Yeah I just read your last couple posts and was going to reply the USB thing. I just finished up 2 button boxes and had the same issue. I have 2 powered USB hubs, 1 new and 1 from about 15 years ago. The newer one doesnt work with the Pro Micros but the 15 yr old does. Glad it working.

Are you using the actual column for the controller in DCS and not the actual column that says MMJOY? I named my stick something I wanted but in DCS it will list my "Named" stick and a MMJOY column. The MMJOY column does nothing for me,only the column that says my stick name. Hope that makes sense. Best I can explain it. I didnt do anything differently than what i would with any other stick inside DCS.

Yeah I was aware of those but didnt really see anything for what I was wanting. Trying to find a decent priced throttle,doesnt matter if the electronics work or not,Ive already rebuilt/rewired my gameport CH sticks. Just not a fan of the Ch throttle I have,its the really old version with nomini stick Something a x55,56 or similar. Thanks

I really only know of this site that sells used gear,sticks and such. Anyone have any other sites that are good selling used good,working or non functioning?

In mmjoy, look in right hand upper corner where it says USB name. Change it to what you like then "save sets to device". Unless your doing something different,sorry havent read the last replies.

Thank you. Well thats good, I had no idea I could do that. Yeah I knew about not sharing the encoder buttons. You must make alot of controllers with MMJOY to understand this as much as you do. With exception to any posts you do on all the forums there really isnt a lot of info on exactly how MMJOY fully works and what you can and cant do with it in full detail. Thanks to you Im learning it though.

Ok does that mean if I use AXIS input for buttons I cant use them for axis also at same time but I can still also use the button pinouts just as long as I only use buttons? Because if so that would make wiring the encoders in a bit easier seperate from the button matrix.

Im was curious about something I kept on seeing when I was trying to figure out my encoder wiring. I saw several diagrams were others were wiring the encoders to the axis pins and buttons to the normal pins on the pro micro. I dont know if they were using MMJOY or a sketch either. If I wasnt using the axis pins for axis is it possible to use those pins for example encoders then wire buttons to the normal pins to have more than the 6x6 matrix? Reason I ask is the current box I built is for racing sims but I also play flight sims and space games. After my last button box I have plenty of extra parts to complete another but thought about using a couple more encoders and a decent amount of buttons. Thanks.

I checked the orientation and was correct. I also took 3 extra buttons and took jumper leads and tried different ways and they would not work. Whats really weird to me is that I put the diodes on the encoders and they worked,just not the buttons.

Honestly I cant remember. I bought a big roll of them a couple years back, its the same type you told(I think) me to use when I was doing my old gameport CH sticks. So far those diodes worked in my left and right combat sticks,ch throttle, a couple of pedal boxes I made for guitar to pc recording and a sequential shifter I made. Only had the issue when building this button box. Ok just looked in my order history and the diodes are "1n4148 switching diode"

Wanted to thank everyone for helping me. I have it all together and working now with 11 buttons,4 3 way momentary toggles, 4 encoders with the buttons working. Had an issue tho with the diodes that I have never had before. I had put them everywhere needed on the buttons but after about the 3rd diode none of my buttons worked. Did alot of trouble shooting before I found it was the diode.Removed diode and that buttons would work but none others in matrix until I removed diode. Yes I made sure they in correct direction but for shits and giggles I switched the direction and still nadda. I never figured out why the buttons wouldnt work with diodes. After some researching my understanding was that I wouldnt get any ghosting until 3 or 4 button presses at once. So I just didnt use diodes and after setting up the buttons there was no ghosting. Played a few games and no ghosting. but for a button box I dont think I'd ever need 3 or more buttons presses at once. The LED strip really isnt that bright,camera just picks them up really well.

Yes it is. I do fine with making button matrix and axis connections. I mean couple years ago I got my hands on 2 CH Combat sticks and a CH throttle for cheap but they were gameport version. Using Pro Micro and MMJOY I completely redone the wiring added hats and all sorts of stuff,even converted one of the sticks to a lefty(space games). But these encoders had me messed up then my main whole issue of not getting the encoders to work was I didnt realize MMJOY stops doing the light after you tell it. I am almost %100 sure I had it right the 1st or 2nd time. Thanks again,hopefully now I get my wiring diagram done and no more problems..lol.

Thanks. In the process of designing my layout and all the buttons I want for sure I was going through MMJOY buttons settings. The one setting Im not sure about how it is intended to work is the "Shift" setting. The bit I read on sounds like it acts a 2 button press. Meaning I push shift button and that acts a single button that is set to push 2 buttons. ?? But what I'm wondering is if there is a way in MMJOY to set the shift as a mode button similar to the mode rotary on the Saitek x52 sticks. default mode the buttons are programs to a set of keybinds,press the mode(shift) button and the buttons now are like having another separate set of buttons. So what is the shift setting exactly and is it possible to get the mode type setting in MMJOY? Knowing this will help me better plan the buttons and such on my button box. EDIT: So I finally got the encoder and SW working together. Whats been messing me up is that if I dont select any encoders in the ENCODER BOX it will light up 2 red buttons but once I select the encoder button ranges in the encoder boxes, the red button boxes no longer light up making me think it wasnt working. But if I check in button tester and windows joystick the button register as they are assigned.They also work in a game. My question is this intended way the light up boxes are suppose to do after you tell MMJOY which buttons for the encoder?

Ok thanks. Yea at first that scheme was confusing me but after you explained how they work I got to looking and saw it different from what you said. I believe in "Better Safe Than Sorry" rule....:thumbup: For the encoder and testing purposes, if Im just testing one encoder are the diodes still required for testing a single encoder? In my tests I think I had the diodes going opposite direction from scheme.:doh:

Well that may have been my whole issue. I didnt realize that. Looking at the diagram you gave, The encoder diode shows them connected to columns.???? And switch diode connected to rows.??? But what your saying is the opposite. :huh: That confuses me. Ive only been trying to connect the 1 encoder with the push down switch on it. Also do the diodes on the encoder go towards encoder but switches diode towards the Pro Micro?

Yeah I dont see why they would be different without the board. Might tinker with it later. If the encoder is working correct should I see them light on the button setup page of MMJOY? Like I said the encoder is working I just cant see it unless Im in windows joystick and they may have been my problem all along since Im a newbie on the encoders.

I removed the PCB on one of them. And I am wiring the encoder just as you said here. I got the encoder working but not the switch. If I get the switch working then the encoder doesnt work

I know nothing of the scripting stuff. What are those other encoders your using? At this point I'll just buy some regular ones the everyone knows works for this purpose. Do you know the difference bewteen these Im using and the EC11 encoders? I found a couple of others that built a similar box to what I want using the EC11 and Pro micro. EDIT: Yeah I cant get both the rotary and the SW to work together, its one or the other.

Yes I did. I was reading up on these encoders and they are called quadrature encoders,not what other kinds there are but hoping these are the right ones for what we are doing.

Ok that last post made more sense to me. Making sure I have this right. So when adding encoders I need to connect them first in the matrix then add all the other buttons and switches afterwards? I have never messed with these things and they are a pain. Im gonna try your settings in the pic and see what happens. EDIT: I just did it exactly like you said in last post and I get nothing on the encoder buttons,nothing lights up. Windows Joysticks shows 6 inputs but nothing lights when I turn it. Wired the 2 outer pins to BC D0 and D4 and the middle to B3. EDIT: I think I may have the encoder part working. In MMJOY I dont see anything light up. In windows joystick it will light up buttons 1 and 2 just like button presses but only on every 2nd click of the encoder. Is that the way they function on the clicks? I also tested it in game just to see and it did do what I put the key bind to but just doesnt show any lights in MMJOY or in the tester,

After messing around with it for awhile and reading on the encoders a bit I think I may have had it working but thought it wasnt. Not sure. So Im assuming that with a single click both buttons are suppose to light up but as an encoder it only reads the first one that lights. But with the ones I have they light so fast they look like they light at same time. But if I turn very slowly I can kinda a see 1 light first depending on the direction Im turning it. But if I take the 2 that light up and put them in the encoder field then nothing will light up anymore. This is with the encoder removed from the PCB to make it simple until I understand this. But I just cant consistently get just 1 encoder working. Im starting to wonder if these encoders work for what Im doing with them. Also as for looking up on encoders a bit and the pro micro, there are so many different ways to wire them that just doesnt make much sense to me. This encoder stuff has frustrated me tonight