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If anyone in here has figured it out, I'd like to know how it worked. To get support for this, I want to also include @WINWING and @WinwingTech I'm using the winwing Top Gun MIP, and there is no going back. I've even gone as far as to start building a sim cockpit to really do it justice. So, while I'm getting used to not needing the virtual cockpit for reference much anymore, I'd like to know if anyone has yet found any way to make the UFC display work when you're in the HUD only (L alt + F1) view? The screens work great in this view for me. It really was plug and play. But the UFC stops updating the display when in this view. Is there an entry into the LUA file that can make this work correctly? Is it as simple as that? It only took the addition of 2 lines in the script to fix the problem of desync after crashing. Everything else seems to work as advertised, and it seems like something just as simple was missed to make this work correctly. For folks building sim cockpits, it's essential that the UFC sync up properly. The inputs still work, so the buttons still control their selected function, but it doesn't display what the current function being selected is. Am I explaining this correctly? Again, this is only in the (L alt + F1) HID only view. When the virtual cockpit is being used, all works as it should.
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#UPDATE: I uploaded a HowTo PDF with more informations and WIP pictures to Thingiverse. You can also download it from here: https://milkris.de/s/fn9isEywRaWQjxR DISCLAIMER: I’m not a professional maker! It’s not perfect, but it works and I’m fine with the result. Here and there, some filing, drilling, and gluing might be necessary... temp solution to fix the UFC ghosting bug. go to : DCS World OpenBeta\Mods\aircraft\F-15E\Cockpit\UFC\Indicator\UFC_Rear_init.lua find line : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC") replace by : try_find_assigned_viewport("UFC_rear") Parts needed: The STL files for 3d printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6248787 a 7" 800x600 4:3 CLAA070MA0ACW LCD Screen (or just a red acrylic glas for VR pilots)https://www.amazon.de/CLAA070MA0ACW-LCD-Bildschirm-TFT-Monitor-HDMI-Eingang-LCD-Controller-Board/dp/B072JTB73F/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1Q57UB0M245L&keywords=CLAA070MA0ACW&qid=1696496871&s=computers&sprefix=claa070ma0acw%2Ccomputers%2C95&sr=1-1 10 pieces: 6 x 6 x 10mm Tactile Switches (Display Buttons)https://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 35 pieces 6 x 6 x 4.3mm Tactile Switcheshttps://www.amazon.de/Taktiler-Druckknopfschalter-Momentary-Button-Sortiment/dp/B08KY2QPZ6/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=6+x+6+x+10+tactile+switch&qid=1696497067&sr=8-7 4 Potentiometershttps://www.ebay.de/itm/174261626629?var=473259663408 2 Rotary Encoders (Radio Channels) https://www.amazon.de/s?k=WayinTop+5+Set+360+Grad+Rotary+Encoder+Modul+EC11&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=YJ7QO6J3747X&sprefix=wayintop+5+set+360+grad+rotary+encoder+modul+ec11%2Caps%2C94&ref=nb_sb_noss 2 Dual Rotary Encoders (RadioVolume)https://www.ebay.de/itm/225271940062 2 ON-OFF-ON Switches https://www.ebay.de/itm/182568517273?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338748320&toolid=20006&customid=K4AVAs4ZAAAAgC9iOSdfZ7EEgU0AAAAAAA a Leobodnar BU0836X USB (or an Arduino for DCS BIOS)https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 a 12-button joystick USB (not needed if you use Arduino)https://www.amazon.de/Quimat-Nullverz%C3%B6gerung-Encoder-Joystick-QR04/dp/B06XD1WF8G/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=176ESIHEU5QHW&keywords=12-button+joystick+USB&qid=1696496950&sprefix=12-button+joystick+usb+%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-8 few black M3, M4, M5 screws, some hot glue, some 3mm PVC foam board Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board. https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=300 !! NOTE !! This thing is BIG! If you have a small printer like me (Creality Ender 3), you have to print some parts WITHOUT rafts!!! The UFC can be mounted slightly tilt forward or straight. There are two option you can print. You can label the panels by changing the filament at the appropriate print height in Cura (etc.). I only did this for the buttons. I printed the other labels on adhesive film. I made these prints resistant with acrylic paint. So, there is an option "NO-LABELS" for some STL parts. I have attached a suitable PNG or here https://milkris.de/s/DtK6gxqaiAgqQTo. This can be easily printed on A4 adhesive film.For some areas in the interior, such as the housing for the electrical boards and the back panel of the UFC, I simply used a 3mm PVC foam board. I simply used a Leobodnar BU0836X USB board, as well as a simple 12-button joystick USB board. It's not pretty, but it works out of the box. Of course, you can also use a different solution (Arduino, etc.). # Note: I wouldn't use potentiometers next time, even though it might be less tactile and realistic. Instead, I would install rotary encoders in place of the potentiometers. This way, you can also use the BBI-64 Button Box Interface (which doesn't support axes), but has enough inputs, and you'll save the 12-button USB board Since I already use a 4K monitor and three 7" MFD screens, my monitor outputs were scarce. The solution was the "Matrox TripleHead2Go". I got the DP version cheaply on eBay. Here I combined my three 800x600 MFD screens into one 2400x600 screen. Now I only need one DP connection to the graphics card for my three MFDs, and I can connect the UFC to the graphics card with a DP to HDMI cable. The viewpoint export must be adjusted exactly so that the lines are readable. Please refer to the pictures at Thingiverse! Since I change the UFCs, throttles, and joysticks depending on the aircraft i fly, I have created various PowerShell scripts for starting DCS, which accordingly adjust the MonitorConfig, etc. before starting DCS If you only use the UFC in VR, you can also simply use a red acrylic glass instead of the LCD screen. It's alive!!! it's a mess My little helper have soldered most of the wires My little corner. Full convertible Cockpit.
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It would be helpful to have a built in tool rather than LUA manipulation and the FPS issues associated with trying to get exports onto a 2nd screen with medium grade gpu's (Currently have a 1070ti). Currently I have been using Helios to run a virtual cockpit while I fly and have done the usual steps to get the MFD's and what not exported to my 2nd screen. However I feel that there is a definite FPS hit to my setup from having to have a resolution of 2560x2520 (Main screen is a 32" 1440p screen and cockpit is run on 24" 1080P touch screen). It would be helpful to have a baked in way to handle exporting Cockpit MFD's and other scopes (radar, RWR in Particular) that would not have a huge hit on FPS especially given the scarcity of higher end equipment as of recent. I know that MFCD existed but that program hasn't been updated or supported in some time and so there is no other options than the current LUA manipulation method.
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Hello! I'm looking for the dimensions of the throttle and stick in the MIG-21 as a wish to build a functioning replica to be used with DCS. Has anyone any ideas on where I could get a hold of these dimensions or point me in a good direction? Thanks in advance!
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Cross posting from the F5 forum for additional help: Having a weird issue, I have my RWR working just fine, but my radar does not seem to want to go onto my 2nd screen (see screenshot. I have attached my Lua files and I am hoping that I am just missing something dumb. Helios.lua AN_APQ159_init.lua
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Hello, I am searching for the Dimensions of the Datalink-Panel of the Ka-50. There are some old threads which adress that topic but their links are not working anymore. Of course I am also interesseted in other drawings / dimensions of the Ka-50 cockpit . Can anyone help? Greetings Hajime
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I have started trying to build my own home cockpit panels for the F-5 as a fun project. I have heard that DCS BIOS is what I should be using but after hours and hours of trying to understand and trying to get DCS-BIOS to work I am stuck. I have no clue what I'm doing. I have a Teensy 3.5 and an Arduino Uno to use. I know there is some way to just use the Teensy as a HID but I don't know how to code at all and the internet was not helpful. Thanks for the help. -Ben (I'm really cheap so it is not a perfect replica.)
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Hallo liebe Simler, auch wenn dies nicht der ideale Platz für diesen Thread ist, möchte ich dennoch mein Heimcockpit hier in der deutschen Community zum Verkauf anbieten. Ich verkaufe es, da mir mehr und mehr die Zeit zur Fertigstellung fehlt, und das, obwohl sich der Baufortschritt quasi auf der Zielgeraden bewegt. Insbesondere sind alle Holzarbeiten und die meisten Panels abgeschlossen (Schleudersitz gehört nicht zum Angebot). Die angehängten Bilder sollen einen Eindruck von dem vermitteln was vorhanden bzw. was noch zu tun ist. Der Verkauf richtet sich an all jene, die sich mit dem Gedanken eines eigenen A10 Cockpits tragen. Für solche, sollte dieses Cockpit hier einen guten Start bieten und den Aufwand erheblich reduzieren. Besichtigung ist selbstverständlich möglich und auch ausdrücklich erwünscht. Im übrigen ist der Verkauf nur im Ganzen gedacht, ergo kein Versand von Einzelteilen. Ich selbst wohne hier im Süden Hamburgs...... Für Leute, die sich mit CNC Fräsen, Lackieren etc etwas auskennen, sollte es unschwer sein, zu erahnen, welche Arbeit und finanzielle Mittel bisher geflossen sind. Daher bitte ich um faire Angebote.....heißt nicht 3000 Euro, aber eben auch nicht 300 Euro.....ihr wisst, was ich meine Viele Grüße Cockpit_Ansichten.pdf
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Reluctantly I am selling my complete cockpit which I would prefer to sell as a complete kit maybe to someone who is just starting out in DCS. Due to the amount of stuff you are going to need to be UK based and able to come and pick it all up. I have kept most of the original boxes for the controls so they can be easily transported safely. I have been using everything up to just before Christmas, everything works and there are controls for both rotary and fixed wing if you like flying both. This has given me a number of years of great fun but I just don't use it as much as I did and it deserves to go to a new home. Like everyone else I have spent thousands over the years but I am asking just £2,200 for everything listed (Please note: - the monitor and stand are not included in the sale) Components are as follows: Dispay: Oculus Rift S Gaming PC: Ryzen 5, MSI 350 Motherboard, 1080ti graphics card, 32GB Corsair 3200 RAM, 750 GB Solid State drives Controls: Virpil Controls VPC Rotor TCS Base Virpil Controls Mongoose T-50M2 Virpil VPC Flightstick extension Virpil VPC BRD Warbird Rudder Pedals Thrustmaster Warthog Throttle (Pinky Switch needs replacing) Thrustmaster Warthog A10 Grip Thrustmaster Warthog FA18 Grip Logitech G13 Keyboard Razer Tartarus V2 Keyboard Thrustmaster MFD Cougar Pack x 2 JetSeat from Andres shop Leap Motion hand tracking Controller Logitech rollerball mouse Keyboard I am also including the wooden Cockpit which was downloaded as plans but I can't remember where from. It can be easily dismantled and put back together. Although it breaks down pretty well, you are probably still going to need a van for the seat and all the other stuff. Any questions please ask. null
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- for sale
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