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I made a diagram which shows all available transitions between radar modes in search and designated-target modes. I arranged the modes in how they are related by auto-aqc switch direction, so it's more of a map than just a table of state transitions like the manual provides. Inop modes are colored yellow. I also made a plot showing the azimuth-elevation profile of all radar modes. These should be accurate to the degree, with the exception of maybe the boresight mode where I had to interpret "4 degrees circle" as an azimuth/elevation rectangle. Source diagrams.net files are available upon request. Note: Plot azimuth scale is 2.5 degrees per grid cell, and elevation scale is 1 degree per grid cell. This skews the representation of angular area (solid angle) subtended by each of these modes. Supersearch (SS) and Boresight (BS) should be square in shape.
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Продам абсолютно новые руд и рус Logitech X56 HOTAS. Продаются в связи с приобретением других контроллеров.
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After the latest 2.9.0.46801 (MT) I can't reconfigure tons of previously bound commands to my HOTAS for F-15C. The scale is staggering: I'm a firm believer - if it can be bound to a keyboard, let us bind it to a controller/HOTAS buttons as well! I know, this is just a regression, but you should somehow make some order in these matters, please. I hope that F-15C is popular enough that we will get some quick patch for NOT being able to turn even the radar on with HOTAS!
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UPDATE: Version 2.72 is available. The new installer now points to the new webhost. Special thanks go out to the Virtual Armed Forces for hosting CTS on their website. Hosting by the VAF is a significant improvement in uninterrupted service and consistency. Please check out the Virtual Armed Forces for an outstanding PvE multiplayer experience! You can also check out the VAF in the Air Combat Sim podcast #42. If you don't wish to do a fresh install, you can replace the top line of your CTS\DB\version.txt with the following entry: http://cts.virtualarmedforces.com/CTS/DCS/CTSversion.txt You may also download the new installer, or simply download and replace the updated version.txt below (note, this does not work for the CTS Legacy version; you'll need the installer for that). Special thanks to Tercio Sampaio for developing the GUI. If you wish to donate for this program, please send any donations to Fisher House, a charity that supports wounded veterans and their families. Exception: if you want me to program for a module or hardware I don't have, please PM me and we can discuss it. DCS World TARGET Script for Thrustmaster Cougar or Warthog and MFDs is now available. Download it from: Eagle Dynamics User Files Box.com This file is an installer which will install and launch the updater, which will then download the latest version of the script. You can also periodically run the updater to keep your script up to date. This script for the HOTAS Cougar/Warthog and Cougar MFDs includes dedicated profiles for the following aircraft: A-10C Warthog AV-8B N/A Harrier II AH-64D Apache Ka-50 Black Shark P-47D Thunderbolt P-51D Mustang UH-1H Huey Mi-8 Hip Mi-24P Hind F-86 Sabre Fw-190A8/D9 Bf-109K-4 Kurfürst MiG-21bis Fishbed MiG-15bis M-2000C SA-342 Gazelle L-39 Albatross F-5E Tiger II Spitfire LF Mk. IX Mosquito FB Mk. VI AJS-37 Viggen C-101 F-14 Tomcat F-15E Strike Eagle F-16C Viper JF-17 Thunder F/A-18C Hornet MiG-19 Farmer I-16 Ishak A-4E Skyhawk T-45 Goshawk Combined Arms Flaming Cliffs 3 The script is fully implemented with both code and custom keyboard and joystick LUA files. The included "Standard DirectX" profile can me used to create a versatile profile for anything else. This script uses TARGET, so you need to install it (though Cougar users can leave Foxy where it is). I also recommend the latest MFD Drivers, as I have found fewer profile crashes with these enabled. The script offers the following features: Graphical User Interface (GUI) to save your settings and auto-generate script files. Both HOTAS Cougar and Warthog Compatibility with F/A-18 Grip Support for selected modules. All documentation (except for the Setup Guide) is in HTML with context-sensitive help in the GUI. CommState routine allows for the selection of F1 through F12 keys with Hats 2-4 while the MIC switch is pressed Hot-selectable “TriggerZoom” allows you to zoom into your target or HUD when depressing the first trigger stage LED indications for airbrake, landing gear, TriggerZoom, CommState, and Teamspeak3 PTT Compatible with TouchControl (formerly TouchIR), VAICOM Pro, DCS Simpleradio Standalone, and all major VoIP solutions Optimized for TrackIR, but compatible VR or with Hat1 as POV Individual HOTAS profiles are mapped as closely to their real world counterparts as practical Flaming Cliffs 3 (FC3) HOTAS mappings correlate to the A-10C (attack aircraft) or F-16C (fighters) as closely as practical FC3 Context Sensitive Autopilot routine that reverts to last used mode on toggle A-10C Profile includes direct entry for CDU, CMSP, and UFC Ka-50 Profile allows direct entry for ABRIS (RMFD) and Rubicon Datapad Ability to automatically pause TrackIR while at the Door Gunner Station (UH-1) Context sensitive communications menus based on crew station (framework in place for DCS implementation) TARGET based Central Position Trimmer Mode that greatly improves upon the default trimmers when not using force feedback. Analog and digital differential braking routines, including paddle braking and nosewheel steering. Kneeboard mapping for all aircraft. NVGs for all capable aircraft, including "bonus" mapping for the A-10A, Su-25, Su-25T, and F-86 (H/T Zaelu). AWACS Mode for LotATC and SRS users. Simplified hot-selection of aircraft allows for potentially thousands of aircraft and variants in this script, along with audible feedback of aircraft selected. Screenshots are in the following post. I look forward to your feedback; any information that will help me improve this profile is greatly appreciated. To this end, there is now a public bugtracker for CTS. See the HTML documentation for instructions on how to submit a bug report or feature request. version.txt
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Well folks, here it is! A year in the making: The Century Series B-8/MC-2 Grip! Century Series Grip by TheSimNet - Thingiverse Enjoy!
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One thing that the modules are missing are a series of additional keybinds that takes advantage of individual players' HOTAS setups. Not everyone has a button in the right place, and some of us don't have any three position switches at all. I think that this is a missed opportunity to make the F1 an easier plane to configure for HOTAS inputs. Here's an example of what I'm talking about: I was practicing aerial refueling today in the F1EE. In the real world, I'd keep my right hand on the flight stick and keep my eyes on the tanker while I feel for the refueling guard switch, and push the underlying switch forward. When I'm done, I again use my left hand to feel for the switch and guard and drop both. Since we aren't actually in F1 cockpits, you have only two options: you look down and fumble with the mouse to click the guard and the switch individually. Depending on your zoom, you might have to try multiple times. Keep in mind that you're in formation with a tanker and one or more of your wingmen, so a moment of you being heads-down could mean the difference between being alive one moment and collision the next. The alternative is to use keyboard or HOTAS bindings. HOTAS is preferred, since there are no native keyboard mappings for the refueling system and the keyboard is cluttered with bindings already. If you're going to have to use bindings, to perform the above workflow you'd have to give up FOUR bindings. One to open the guard, one to push the refueling switch forward, one to push the refueling switch back, and one to close the guard. Given differences between people's setups, that's not realistic to expect people to dedicate that many bindings, since there are many switches that can be time critical (in the sense that you need to do something very quickly but you can't take your eyes off of the HUD). Speaking for myself, I'd have to dedicate four switches to the refueling system- and my setup only has four! These switches are Up = Pressed continuously and Down = unpressed. If changes are made, we can cut down the number of binds to just two: the ability for one bind to do two actions each. There are two ways of doing this: 1. Implement a ON else OFF-style bindings. Imagine a simple switch like I have. I'd like to be able to flip my switch up and have the refueling guard go forward and up. When I flip that switch back, the guard returns to its back and closed position. Since the switch holds the input continuously, I don't need to hold down anything to keep the guard forward. 2. Implement toggle buttons. While not ideal for my setup, other players will appreciate it, too. Some players may want to map the refueling guard cover to a pushbutton. Holding down a pushbutton isn't feasible, so this should instead be a simple toggle. Press it once, the guard flips open. Press it again, it closes. Simple. I think that all switches/toggles/guards should get this treatment. However, in the interest of focusing on the ones I feel are important, I've made a list to help. By no means is this list supposed to be exhaustive. It's focused on mappings that otherwise require excessive bindings and may be used in critical stages of a flight, such as in combat or while in formation. A summary: X else Y - When pressed, is in state X. If not pressed, will give state Y A/B - When pressed, toggles from state A to state B. When pressed again, goes from state B back to state A. ***All Airframes (F1CE, F1BE, F1EE, Presumably F1M as well)*** Master Arm switchology: Armament Master Switch Guard: Open Else Closed Armament Master Switch Guard: Closed Else Open Armament Master Switch Guard: OPEN/CLOSE Armament Master Switch: On Else Off Armament Master Switch: Off Else On Armament Master Switch: ON/OFF Armament Panel: Auto/Manual Firing Selector switch - AUTO else MAN Auto/Manual Firing Selector switch - MAN else AUTO Auto/Manual Firing Selector switch - MAN/AUTO Bomb/Rocket selector - 1+2/INBD/OUTBD Bomb/Rocket selector - INBD/OUTBD Fuselage Bombs Pushbutton - ON else OFF Fuselage Bombs Pushbutton - OFF else ON Wing bombs pushbutton - ON else OFF Wing bombs pushbutton - OFF else ON Fore/Aft selector switch: AFT else FWD Fore/Aft selector switch: FWD else AFT Fore/Aft selector switch: FWD/AFT MATRA 550 or Sidewinder Missile Switch: ON else OFF MATRA 550 or Sidewinder Missile Switch: OFF else ON Stores Jettison: Selective Jettison button guard - OPEN else ClOSE Selective Jettison button guard - CLOSE else OPEN Selective Jettison button guard - OPEN/CLOSE Emergency Jettison button guard - OPEN else ClOSE Emergency Jettison button guard - CLOSE else OPEN Emergency Jettison button guard - OPEN/CLOSE ***F1EE-specific*** Refueling: Transfer/Filling switch guard - Open Else Closed Transfer/Filling switch guard - Closed Else Open Transfer/Filling switch guard - OPEN/CLOSED Transfer/Filling switch - REMP. VOL (AERIAL REFUELING) Else TRANFERT (TRANSFER) Transfer/Filling switch - TRANFERT (TRANSFER) Else REMP. VOL (AERIAL REFUELING) Transfer/Filling switch - TRANFERT (TRANSFER)/REMP. VOL (AERIAL REFUELING) ECM: BARAX state Selector - ON else OFF BARAX state Selector - OFF else On BARAX state Selector - ON/OFF/TEST BARAX state Selector - ON/OFF BARAX emission ready korry - pressed else released BARAX emission ready korry - released else pressed BARAX emission ready korry - pressed/released
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EDIT/ADD: -Boost gauge tricky to read. Further down thread (see image) I found "true non bugged" idle boost ca -6.2. -I stupidly wrote zero (0) when meaning lowest idle boost. Edited to -6.2 in text (red). At no point during testing (all tests, all posts) did it actually show zero (0). Except engine off obviously. -Spitfire. Bugged (idle) high boost shifts between -3 or -4 depending HOTAS RPM level max/min. Might jump straight to post #6 (first with image). Previous posts I grasped less what's happening. Also, probably not intermittent (one thing I didn't grasp). I crashed Spitfire, did Quit -> Fly again. Suddenly Spitfire rolled on Spawn Rwy. Spitfire & P-51 both increase idle <1000 ~1500, Boost goes to -4 Spitfire instead of idle 0 -6.2. Seen once P-51, Spitfire all the time. Not tried others. When observed with Thrustmasters own software "Device Analyzer". All buttons work, analog hit correct endpoints (0-16383 for example). When plugging in the throttle the boost & rpm increases. What can this be? Throttle otherwise seems to work as it should, ie I can increase & decrease, just starting from boost -4 instead of zero -6.2 (Spitfire). Calibration? This has never happened before, bought 2018, so ie five years old, so I fear something more problematic is afoot.
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So I noticed multiple times when spawning P-51 start on runway engine spins up. When I touch the HOTAS throttle lever (Warthog) it goes to idle. Same thing Spitfire. HOTAS throttle idle but engine roars away until lever touched on mission start. Began with first 2.7 release I think. Yes, I checked the checkmark, I've relied on it for years.
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Hello, when cleaning my office I found some rare and unused spare parts for the Cougar. As I don´t have this stick anymore, maybe someone is still interested in them. I have the following items available: You can see detailed pictures below. The plug displayed in below pictures and not in the list above is the one for the stick. Prices are as follows: Clip black (2x) --> 3,- EUR per pcs. (sold) Comer (black) --> 3,- EUR (sold) Plug for stick --> 10,- EUR (sold) Shipment costs are related to the country you are from. I´m located in Germany. Thanks, Xoxen
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PART 1 Hello and welcome to my Thrustmaster Warthog throttle pinky switch replacement guide. I live in the UK and have found it difficult to find any information with regards to replacing the pinky switch in the UK specifically. I found numerous vids and advice on HOW to replace it, but not WHERE I could source the correct switch from in the UK. This guide presumes you are comfortable taking apart your beloved throttle and have access to, and can use, a soldering iron. No special tools are required. If you're reading this you probably already know that there are an abundance of SPDT switches out there, and if you don't know what one of those is, like I didn't, just google it. It'll make more sense. I found it difficult to decipher all the sizes and switch types so I wanted to share exactly WHAT switch I used and WHERE it came from at a very reasonable price. So lets get to it.... THE SWITCH From a reputable electronics company, RS Components. RS stock number: 7347139 REMOVAL OF SWITCH To remove, undo the 2 phillips screws holding the left throttle together. They are located on the INBOARD side of the throttle. The OUTBOARD panel that the switch sits in should now start to come away from the body of the throttle. ***NOTE - IF THE INBOARD PLASTIC PANELSTARTS TO COME AWAY, TRY TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING. THAT PART ISN'T DESIGNED TO COME AWAY WITHOUT FURTHER DISSASSEMBLY. You will find 2 black spacers inside that will become loose once the screws are fully removed. Take those out and keep them safe with the screws. At this point don't worry about which way around they go as I'll specify that later on. I'm going to have to break this post up into stages as my images are too big and limited to a max of 5MB per post.
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Hi, I installed DCS again after some months off and wanted to fly the newly purchased A-10C II. Sadly the coolie hat isn´t working. I thought maybe it is broken, but when testing and recalibrating the throttle outside of DCS everything is OK, at least in the Windows 10 testing window. Did everyone know this error or could point me to an approach how I could find out the problem? I also loaded up Arma 3, mapped the coolie hat to the vision and could without any problems move my vision in any direction using the coolie hat, so it must be a problem with DCS... I hope somebody could help me. Greetings
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Living in Australia being so far away can suck at times, in this case Thrustmaster DO NOT have a support channel in this country. I have a Warthog Joystick that needs parts, I have examined the unit and know what I need to buy, can anyone put me in touch with a repair agent anywhere (most likely Europe or the USA, but if there's one in Asia) that would be awesome. After spending more than a $1000 on products you would think the support arm is able to support their products anywhere needed? Premium products demand a better level of support when spending this amount of money......... All I want is someone who can supply and ship parts to Australia. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
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I've been using DCS for a short while and have programmed my X56 for the SU25T. So here it the layout, if it useful for anyone. I also removed the spring from the stick, which makes flying much more responsive. X56 HOTAS Key Layout SU25T.docx
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Hi, I'm not active here, but I took a lot of info from your posts, in order to do this small project so I'd like to share the result. Essentially what I started out to do is turn a CH Pro Throttle game port version into a USB throttle. The Ch Pro Throttle comes with one low-ohm poti for the throttle axis. Four dedicated buttons and four digital four-way hats make for 20 buttons, which are wired into a button matrix. In a first step I took an arduino sparkfun pro micro and the MMjoy firmware. I wired up the button matrix, liberally reusing the available cables and connectors. The poti also needed some rewiring, as the gameport joystick "protocol" is just wired to read resistance of an analogue axis poti, while the arduino already expects a voltage divider setup. Now since I really enjoy the AV8B I decided to add more potis to the throttle grip. And, to my demise, I found @rel4y's excellent Playstation thumbstick mod 3D printed parts, which replace the index finger 4-way hat with 2 analogue axes and a push button; which is really nice for the TDC slew and TDC down/action part of a HOTAS. You already see that I was quickly running out of arduino inputs. Therefore I decided to use an MCP-3208 ADC to digitize all 5 analogue axes. This required me to put a static resistor into the voltage divider of the slider axis, to reduce the charge going into the ADC at each sampling interval. I know my mechanical skills are crude, please bear with me. After some hours of soldering and grinding I now have this nice USB throttle, and still 3 analogue axes and 3 buttons not used in hardware. Also when I'm grown up I maybe use some shift registers to put even more buttons.
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Hello, after my glorious throttle mod I also came across a quite dirty but cheap CH Combat Stick game port version... So I made a plan to turn it into USB using once more the MMJoy arduino path. I took an arduino sparkfun pro micro and the MMjoy firmware, another MCP-3208 ADC for the stick axes and wired up everything in the base. While in the CH Pro Throttle game port version the poti had idk like 100 Ohms or something and needed an additional resistor before the MCP-3208 input to keep it from freaking out, the Combat Stick came with high resistance potis (100k?) and that way was ready out of the box for the modding. Meanwhile I also took apart the grip, and threw all the plastic pieces into the dishwasher (ymmv) to remove ten years of somebody else's palm sweat and grease residue (eew). I think that's the early version of a Combat Stick as the gimbal springs are tiny. In the original setup, the 14 or so grip buttons are all wired down into the base individually; I decided to use an array of shift registers in the grip to reduce the length of the wiring significantly. So after all this, a mere 5 wires (VCC, GND, DATA, CS and CLK) were left, plus one empty I was too lazy to pull out of the cable assembly. Note I marked which colour means what on the base before closing it, and of course not without testing everything with the help of some cheap breakout 74HC165 shift registers and a breadboard. Also note the mega unprofessional use of red/black wire for ground and white/black for VCC For the grip, the Combat Stick I had came with two hats and two buttons at the top thumb area (trim, sensor select, pickle and perhaps sensor select down for the AV8BNA), and a single button on the thumbrest halfway down the stick. On the box, there is a version pictured that has one of the hat switches in that position, and the button moved up to the main area. Now I still had a spare hat switch from my CH Pro Throttle, the index finger one to be precise, which I had replaced with an analogue stick mod by the mighty @rel4y. I decided that this needs to go into the thumbrest, increasing the actual number of buttons on the stick to 17. It required some grinding to fit into the button well, as the Throttle variant came with a square PCB while the CH Fighterstick variant that fits the same spot does not have a PCB but directly connects the microswitches. The rest is exactly fitting, including the little notch that prevents the hat switch from turning in its round socket. I tried fitting 3 x 74HC165 shift register breakout boards in, plus the necessary pullup resistor networks - which had to be SIL because my SMD soldering capability is not existing. Of course I failed miserably, but I came across a very nice 3 x 4021 shift register SMD setup on ebay classifieds. And, shame on me, until I read his name on the PCB when it arrived yesterday, I had failed to realize that the guy selling it was in fact our very own @rel4y. Hi mate, thank you for doing this! From then on everything was really just plug-and-play, also switching from 74HC165 to 4021 shift registers was as easy as 1 2 3. Cramming all that into the stick handle was still a nightmare, but at that point I could also no longer be asked to reduce the truly excessive wire lengths. To make everything fit, also around all the different studs and screw wells, I had to bend one of the pin header arrangements on the shift registers to 90 degrees inwards, but then *** ta-daaaa *** everything closed nicely, snapped into place and works like a charm. The only thing now is, I am missing a rudder axis dearly, especially for the half-helicopter AV8BNA. Perhaps that's my next mod? Who knows
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If I use a physical switch to switch the FLIR pod on prior to a mission start it does not work, the virtual FLIR switch in the Hornet cockpit is always switched to off. Only if, after mission start, I physically switch to something else and then back on it also switches the virtual switch (and the FLIR). The same thing works as intended for the Master Arm switch, on the other hand.
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Hi there, When playing dcs world, i decided id go back to the aircraft i started in, the f15, to have some fun. Flew it for a half an hour or so before closing the game to run errands. However, when i came back and tried to play it, the f15 wont recognize my HOTAS inputs. What's weird is that it can recognize the button presses on the hotas, but not the axis inputs. So for example i can press my dispense chaff, flare, or any other button on my t16000m hotas setup, but it wont recognize the pitch, roll, or throttle axis at all. Also, it flew fine when i flew it before running errands, and i didn't end the game in any way that could harm the pc or its data. (quit to desktop, wait a few min, and then hit shutdown) i've tried deleting and reinstalling the f15, then the entire game, and still no avail. I thought it could be a hotas bug so i flew the f18 and su25t, but ran in to no problems at all. Throttle and stick both worked perfectly fine on the f18 and su25t, but still just wont work for the f15 only. i've tried remapping keys, clearing the axis and reassigning, but nothing works. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
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Hello everyone, I'm in the middle of my simpit update.. just purchased VKB gunfighter III ( combat pro Grip). Now I’m looking to upgrade my throttle. So asking for feed back. Just as an FYI, upgrading from tmw. And mostly fly F-18 and the F-16. ( thinking of later flying the AV8) thank you
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I hope HOTAS Warthog users will find this little project useful. It is 3D printable afterburner custom detent, to replace genuine part which require to rise throttles up to activate afterburners. 3D printed part allows to just push the throttles through, but with still detectable detent and resistance. There are three versions of it available for free download, with different resistance levels. Cheers & enjoy! https://makcorner.net/mak-thrustmaster-hotas-warthog-afterburner-detent/ NOTE: my STL file is free. If you own 3D printer, the only cost to make this thing is few cents for filament .
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Mouse axis can be assigned there, but not HOTAS axis stick, which makes no sense to me as that is basically the same in terms of input, but the game simply blocks this option. I’m aware that there is another pov option that uses discrete inputs, but that works extremely bad comparing to the axis camera control. is there any way to make it works without virtual mouse/tracIR input?
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TLDR: The preorder process is a queue and there are lots of folks in line ahead of you, but WW is catching up quickly on all the back orders (see some of the replies below). Average time from preorder to payment is about 4 weeks (as of 5-15-2022). Shipping varies after that, but the tracking info usually comes within a day of payment processing. All in all, now that I've got my gear, I can certainly say it's worth the wait! ----- Original Post ------ Just thought I'd weigh in on timing for the Orion 2 for those who have preordered as a FYI FWIW. I want to be clear I do not represent WW in any way, I'm just a regular customer like you. Also, this is neither a complaint nor a review, just information for other folks interested in pre-ordering the new Orion 2 Hotas. I'm overall happy with what WinWing is doing and don't want this to come across as grumpy. I assure you it's not. Just informational. I tried to order an Orion 1 Hotas twice, but couldn't get a purchase to go through because the WinWing site crashed every time they restocked and by the time it was back up they were all sold out. March 11, 2022: I was delighted when they introduced the pre-order system because that meant I could actually order an Orion. I preordered mine on March 11, 2022 at roughly 4:30 pm CET. I immediately received their standard email about waiting for the pre-order to be filled and watched my inbox for the payment request. Once received, I would be able to pay for the product and they would begin shipping. All posts indicated that shipping is usually pretty quick (~2 weeks), but each component ships separately, which is not ideal. March 11-April 3: Waiting...checking email religiously. Crickets. Usually they restock every two weeks, but no email for almost a month. April 4, 2022: WW posts their first "We have something new" teaser. I go, "huh." April 5-9, 2022: As more posts and more info come out, I realize they are updating the Orion, which explains the lack of email. I also worry about whether my order for an old Orion will be filled, or whether I could potentially upgrade it and what the price differential would be. April 10, 2022: Official WW announcement (cool video!). Also the message on their website clarifies my fate: As a previous preorder customer, I'm getting a free upgrade to the Orion 2! Thanks Winwing!! (Still no email though, I saw all this because I was continuously checking their website to make sure I wasn't missing anything and that my pre-order was still pending). April 14, 2022 (time of OP): Still no email and tbh I'm not holding my breath. With everything going on around the world, I don't expect this to come quickly. I'm hoping by the end of May, but it may be longer. I DO wonder though if the original shipping cost that was quoted to me with the preorder will change. If so, I'd like to know because WW requires payment of preorders within 48 hours of receiving their "order filled" email. If the shipping cost does change (probably goes up), I'll need to transfer more money to my Paypal account (the only payment platform WW accepts currently), which takes a few business days. April 18, 2022: Pre-order filled email and payment request received. I paid (using Paypal, shipping cost was the same as quoted when the order was created). Email includes full message about pre-order upgrade. No shipment info yet, I'll update again when it ships and when all parts are received. April 20, 2022: Shipping confirmation from WW. FedEx tracking # received, estimated delivery date 4/25 (but I'll be surprised if it's that quick). Shipping to US. April 26, 2022 All packages received. Shipped to US. 8 days after payment completed (would have been 7, but FedEx was...well, FedEx). Not bad! Happy customer so far. Time from preorder to receipt was 46 days. Feel free to post preorder and shipping times in this thread to compare notes. There's lots of helpful WW tips from fellow customers here too.
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Hi everyone, I wondered if someone can tell me where to buy a floor mount kit for my thrustmaster Hotas? Any help would be appreciated thanks