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Found 6 results

  1. Dear All, my tension wheel seems to be blocked. There is no way to turn it left or right. Does anyone have a clou for me to fix it. Thanks in advance. Norbert
  2. I have two PC's, one with Win 10, and one with Win 11. When I plug in my Logitech/Saitek rudder pedals into win 10 PC and calibrate, I get a "X-Y Axis box with Z Rotation. They then work beautifully in DCS. But when I plug the same pedals into my Win 11 PC and calibrate, I get a different screen. The pedals do NOT function properly in DCS on Win 11. I have tried drivers from Saitek's site, and Logitechs site. Neither say compatible with Win 11. The calibration screen function is very acurate, but malfunctioning in DCS. I've tried using the Logitech programer and created profiles with Bands, directional axis, Mouse X,Y, etc.... Nothing seems to get these pedals functioning right in DCS on Win 11. Anyone else expirence this? Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi, I have a Saitek/Logitech G X56 H.O.T.A.S. And I'm trying the set it up where the 2-position Slider(JOY_BTN33), on the throttle, toggles the afterburners in the F/A-18C. But when I try to set it up, it only binds/detects when the slider is pushed forwards. And when I try it in game, it only toggles when the slider is pushed forward/doesn't toggle when pushed backwards. Unlike Microsoft Flight Simulator, which does respond to both positions. Video of me trying to show my issue Microsoft Flight Simulator example (what I want it to do)
  4. Hallo, ich möchte mein Saitek x55 Throttle für DCS open Beta programmieren. So das ich den Mode Schalter nutzen kann um die Tasten dreifach zu belegen. Wahrscheinlich bin ich zu blöd. Das habe ich zur Probe versucht: - x55 Profil programmiert und eine Taste in Mode 1 und Mode 2 mit jeweils einer Tastatur Belegung versehen (Mode 1, Taste V, Mode 2, Taste B), gespeichert und Software geöffnet gelassen. In DCS (F18 Sim) den Flaps Schalter Auto in den Tastatur Befehlen auf V gesetzt und Full auf B gesetzt. Funktioniert nicht, bewegt sich gar nichts. - Versucht in DCS ein Modifier ein zu fügen, in Modus 1 erkennt er Taste 6, in Modus 2 erfasst er ebenfalls Taste 6 und beschwert sich das die doppelt belegt ist. Was mach ich falsch?
  5. Update: Alle Videos dazu sind schön und gut, live im waren Leben scheint es technisch unmöglich zu sein. Ich habe extrem viel mit allen Variablen ausprobiert. Der Dämpfer verklemmt immer im äußersten Bereich und steht auf den letzten Zentimeter so sehr unter Spannung das in dem Bereich ein größerer Widerstand ist. Projekt ist gestorben für mich. Glaube nicht daß es in den Videos wirklich über den ganzen Bereich funktioniert, dafür ist der Hebelweg zu groß HIER ENTSTEHT EIN GUIDE. Der Beitrag ist in Arbeit, Die Fertigstellung erfolgt ca. bis 20.10.21 Bilder folgen, Punkt 6+7 folgt ausführlich Da ich selbst lange gesucht habe, mir aus vielen Quellen Anregungen geholt habe, jedoch es nirgends eine super Lösung gab, folgt hier mein Guide zum Umbau der Saitek/Logitech Pro Flight X55/X56 Sticks. Ich selbst habe den X55, jedoch sollte der X56 vom Chassis her identisch sein. Bei dem Umbau bleibt die Hardware weitestgehend unberührt und im Original Zustand, bis auf 4 3mm Löcher. Wegen eventuellen Garantie Verlust oder Schäden usw. weise ich darauf hin daß der Umbau auf eigene Gefahr ist. Kosten ca. 35-40€ (Material) Material Liste: - 4x RC Modellbau Stoßdämpfer mit ca. 4cm Dämpfer Bewegungsspielraum. 27€ (Nicht leicht zu finden, mein Modell: https://www.ebay.de/itm/4-Stueck-Aluminium-RC-Stossdaempfer-Daempfer-fuer-Axial-SCX10-Wraith-TRX-4-D90-90046-/164987293645?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0) =120mm Variante - 8x M3/3mm x16mm Feingewinde Schrauben sowie 8 Muttern (hab eine Tüte mit 20St. im Set gekauft, 2€. - 8x 3mm Unterlegscheibe, unter 1€ - 4x M6/6mm x___mm Feingewinde Schrauben (Mein Joystick ist auf einer Holzvorrichtung geschraubt, wenn eurer direkt auf dem Schreibtisch oder ähnliches steht und ihr von unten nichts verschrauben könnt müsst ihr Maschinenschrauben mit Sechskant nehmen, also wie im GUIDE, nur entsprechend kürzer und diese mit dem Kopf von unten rein schrauben) 1-2€ - 4x M6/6mm Muttern 1€ -____x M6/6mm Unterlegscheibe/Bauscheibe (sind größer) ggf. - 4x Flacheisenverbinder 50mm Länge habe ich verwendet, jedoch festgestellt das 40mm vielleicht besser gewesen wären. Vorteil bei 50mm ist das man mehr Spielraum zum Variieren hat (Ausrichten) 1,50€ Werkzeugliste: - "Dremel" (oder auch die günstigen Hersteller) Schleifstein ca. ____mm Durchmesser - Dafür ggf. ein Dremel bzw. auch ähnliches Gerät, habe selbst eins von Parkside für 20€, da war der Schleifstein auch passend dabei, kann man aber auch in den Akkuschrauber/Bohrmaschine daß ihr das vor dem Bohren macht damit vom fräsen sich nicht die Löcher zusetzen und ihr nachbohren müsst. (Den Fehler habe ich gemacht und deswegen ist es so unsauber geworden). Teil wieder umgedreht, am besten auf einen offenen Schraubstock gelegt, leicht am Gewinde eingespannt (!Vorsicht: Bruchgefahr) vll. von einem Helfer fest halten lassen und an den 4 Markierungen je ein 3mm Loch Bohren und ggf. mit einem Cutter Messer entgraten. ___________________________ Das schlimmste ist geschafft, ab jetzt ist es nur noch Schrauben und etwas Fummelarbeit. 4: Das Teil von eben wieder am Joystick anbauen. 5: Die Verbindungsbleche müssen jeweils an einem Ende auf 6mm aufgebohrt werden, die vorgestanzten Löcher sind nur 5mm. 6: Verbindungsbleche anbauen________________ _______________ FOLGT 7: Stoßdämpfer anbauen___________ _________________ FOLGT Joystick wieder festschrauben und fertig ist die Sache. Arbeitszeit unter 60min. Herzlichen Glückwunsch, euer Mod ist fertig.
  6. Selling used X-56 Rhino HOTAS. In good working condition. Only one spring included. I accept returns at buyer's expense. Shipping to EU/UK/EEA only. I need to get rid of it as the VKB NXT is on the way to replace it. Send me your offers.
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