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I'm making a dedicated thread on a throttle nozzle quadrant build that I'm working on. This is something that started a while ago with a pretty detailed design effort that was put on hold for two reasons: 1. my 3D printer was having issues that needed to be investigated, and 2. designing the throttle grip was quickly determined to be too difficult based on the information I had at the time. Since then I have bought a new 3d printer and the old one has now been stripped down for parts for the quadrant. I have also stumbled across several excellent photos from @mattjonesgr9 that were posted on a UFC build thread. This is now enough, along with a short break in work travel madness, to allow me to hit this project hard again. I'm hoping I can keep enough momentum to get a working prototype finished in a few weeks. These are the original renderings of the quadrant enclosure assembly: I did manage to print out this first grip effort, but it was so far off the mark, I didn't know where to start. Since then I have come up with this design for the shell: Whilst not perfect, for a solid body, it's close enough. I've also scaled down the component by a factor of 0.9 as the printed version felt a tad too big for an ungloved hand. This first prototype won't be made of sheet metal as originally planned, but will be assembled from 2020 extruded aluminium and 3D printed parts. I will also be using a hall effect sensor for each of the three rotating axis instead of potentiometers.

Hey guys, After some time the analog pots of my very nice Thrustmaster Cougar started putting out erratic values and were spiking all over the place. These pots seem really cheap and even if there were still replacement parts from TM available, in my eyes it would not make much sense to replace them with the same low quality parts. I have been tinkering with my idea of contactless sensors for the Cougar now for around a year and I think I am finally satisfied with what I got. These sensors are plug and play, fully sealed, make use of a ball bearing on the axle and use a N52 neodymium magnet for contactless angular measurement. The PCBs are only 14 x 20 mm (0.55 x 0.78 in) and were quite the hassle to make all the necessary ICs and SMD parts fit in. The housing is a two part SLS 3D print from Shapeways, which is a very tough material. I use it for all sorts of mechanical parts. (Here you can find development pictures: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...er#Post4419858) These sensors in reality are not hall sensors, but instead use next gen magnetoresistive sensors which are heavily used in the automotive industry and have basically replaced hall sensors there. The main advantages are higher sensitivity and actual angular measurement instead of only measuring the magnetic flux (as hall sensors do). The same type of sensor is used eg in Baur BRD devices in form of MagRez or RAMS. These devices are known for their amazing precision and I wanted to make use of the same sensor in the Cougar. Installation is as easy as stick it in, screw it tight, plug it in and done. You can calibrate them as you normally would via the Hotas Cougar Control Panel and the whole thing stays fully TARGET compatible as well. Now enough talk, here are some pictures. TM Cougar stick sensors Because the question comes up a lot, you can invert every axis of the Cougar in the first tab of the Cougar Control Panel (CCP) software. If you are interested or want to ask questions please contact mtwsims@tutamail.com. No PMs please! Please note that sometimes I am rather slow to respond and it can take me several days to answer your emails. Payment via PayPal or SEPA bank transaction, but for PayPal I would have to add the PayPal fees on top. All sensors are designed, assembled & hand soldered by me. Every single sensor is then checked and calibrated manually. I can proudly say it is 100% Made in Germany. Price: 44€ (set of two sensors) + 7€ tracked international shipping (from experience shipping within Europe is around 2-6 days and to the US 14 days) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- TM Cougar Throttle standalone USB adapter + digital contacless 14 Bit GMR sensor I also have made a USB standalone adapter for the Cougar with a high res 14 Bit GMR TLE5011 digital sensor on the Throttle axis. This one is similar to the TUSBA, but half the price and with an added extension bay that supports extra shift registers, encoders, buttons, analog and digital axis. You can buy the USB standalone adapter without the new digital sensor and simply keep using the original pot. However you can not use the digital sensor without the USB adapter, as it communicates via the digital SPI protocol. I have been selling these on the german Craigslist/ ebay since 2018 and people were really enthusiastic about their performance. Price is 33€ for the adapter and 20€ for the sensor + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- TM Cougar Throttle hall sensor kit I can now also offer a simpler Hall effect sensor kit for the Throttle. It consists of an Allegro 1324 hall sensor + cable and a 3D printed casing + N52 magnet. It is plug and play for the Throttle unit without my USB standalone adapter and similiar to older hall sensor kits for the Cougar. The difference is it requires no fancy mounts and is fixed in the correct position in two out of three axis for more precision. The third axis is dependent on magnet strength and can be hardware and or software calibrated. By hardware calibration I mean depth of insertion into the 3D printed case, nothing to it really. The mod is only compatible with the 5V mainboard version as is! The solution to this problem is a little voltage conversion board that is 3€ extra. The 5V and 3.8V versions differ in a resistor on the VCC line. Here you can check which version of the Throttle mainboard you have: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/135000-new-hall-sensor-kits/?do=findComment&comment=2916178 Awesome installation instructions by JCook: Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cougar Ministick/ Slew replacement This mod replaces the original Ministick of the Cougar Throttle. Often times the original Ministick is worn out and as no replacement parts are available from Thrusmaster anymore a solution was in dire need for many HOTAS Cougar fans. The thumbhat is modeled after the earlier block original F-16 slew. The mod is completely plug and play. Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cougar ANT sensor replacement This mod replaces the original ANT pot of the Cougar Throttle. Often times the original ANT pot is worn out and as no replacement parts are available from Thrusmaster anymore a solution was in dire need for many HOTAS Cougar fans. The implemented chip allows me to program the min/ max voltage output of the sensor to correspond to the exact min/ max angle actually needed in practice. For the Cougar ANT pot this means 270° of rotation in total. Important installation instruction: Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CH Pro Throttle, CH Fighterstick, CH Combatstick, CH Pro Pedals etc. magnetoresistive sensors The cool thing about these MR sensors is that they are a drop in replacement for the standard CH pots, but contrary to these they work contactlessly. That means you can simply connect these sensors to your CH mainboard and done. You will never have to worry about deteriorating or dirty pots again. The CH Control Manager recognizes this sensor normally and you can calibrate it within the software. Important installation instruction: Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 Bit shift registers for Cougar USB standalone, Thrustmaster gear, MMJoy2 These are compatible to the Thrustmaster hardware, to MMJoy2 and to my Cougar USB standalone adapter. The dimensions are 20 mm x 50 mm (0.79 in x 1.97 in), so they are very small and fit basically in everywhere. The pins are spaced in standard 2,54 mm (0.1 in) to fit normal header pins (see picture 2). I offer them either with or without header pins. The shift register is 24 Bit, so it has 24 inputs that you can connect buttons to. It can also be daisy chained, so you can put several shift register boards in series. Eg MMJoy2 supports 12 shift registers in series. So if you daisy chain 4 of my 24 Bit shift register boards, you have a total of 96 button inputs with just 2 pins used. If this isnt pretty damn cool I dont know what is. Price is 10€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) If you are interested or want to ask questions please contact mtwsims@tutamail.com. No PMs please! Please note that sometimes I am rather slow to respond and it can take me several days to answer your emails. Payment via PayPal or SEPA bank transaction, but for PayPal I would have to add the fees on top. All sensors are designed, assembled & hand soldered by me. Every single sensor is then checked and calibrated manually. I can proudly say all my mods are 100% Made in Germany.

Servus, Mein Warthog Throttle von TM funktioniert plötzlich nicht mehr. Also keine Reaktion beim einstecken seitens PC oder throttle. - alle USB Ports ausprobiert - am Kabel rumgewackelt - Aufgeschraubt (innen sieht alles gut aus - soweit ich das beurteilen kann) Hat jemand schonmal sowas gehabt? Evtl ein Wackelkontakt? Hat jemand Erfahrung mit dem Support von TM? grüße

I got my WinWing Orion 2 yesterday and this ist what I experienced. The Engine OFF button is not working properly. It only works if you push the throttle with a force to the last bit of the end. I think the sounds of moving the throttle with the new fingerlift design speaks for its self. The force to overcome the afterburner is differently on the left and right throttle. You need double the force on the left throttle to overcome the AB detend. The fingerlifts are made of plastic and they feel really cheap. In addition they are way to low. You need to change your grip to grab them, what makes them unusable for AB detend. If you increase the friction you are not able to move the throttle freely in one smooth motion. This makes it impossible to make small corrections. So you are forced to use low friction which makes the heavy FA18 throttle fall down and not staying in position.

It would be most effective if further peripheral controllers were permitted to be bound to the F10 Coordinate Picker tool. Currently, it is only permitted to be bound to keyboard. Further controllers like throttle and sticks would be great. Mainly however, mouse controls would be most effective and a natural place to bind such a tool. Myself, I have an extra 5 buttons on my mouse I could bind to this otherwise very excellent tool

Greeting Pilots! Hope you are all doing well! Today the WINWING Orion2 F-16EX Viper Throttle Combo I have ordered has arrived. Assembly and test is planned for today as well. Will have some more pictures and a video about my findings up soon. So far the build quality suits my expectations. I am quite exited about this new controller for my simpit!

EDIT/ADD: -Boost gauge tricky to read. Further down thread (see image) I found "true non bugged" idle boost ca -6.2. -I stupidly wrote zero (0) when meaning lowest idle boost. Edited to -6.2 in text (red). At no point during testing (all tests, all posts) did it actually show zero (0). Except engine off obviously. -Spitfire. Bugged (idle) high boost shifts between -3 or -4 depending HOTAS RPM level max/min. Might jump straight to post #6 (first with image). Previous posts I grasped less what's happening. Also, probably not intermittent (one thing I didn't grasp). I crashed Spitfire, did Quit -> Fly again. Suddenly Spitfire rolled on Spawn Rwy. Spitfire & P-51 both increase idle <1000 ~1500, Boost goes to -4 Spitfire instead of idle 0 -6.2. Seen once P-51, Spitfire all the time. Not tried others. When observed with Thrustmasters own software "Device Analyzer". All buttons work, analog hit correct endpoints (0-16383 for example). When plugging in the throttle the boost & rpm increases. What can this be? Throttle otherwise seems to work as it should, ie I can increase & decrease, just starting from boost -4 instead of zero -6.2 (Spitfire). Calibration? This has never happened before, bought 2018, so ie five years old, so I fear something more problematic is afoot.

Hello! I'm looking for the dimensions of the throttle and stick in the MIG-21 as a wish to build a functioning replica to be used with DCS. Has anyone any ideas on where I could get a hold of these dimensions or point me in a good direction? Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, I'm in the middle of my simpit update.. just purchased VKB gunfighter III ( combat pro Grip). Now I’m looking to upgrade my throttle. So asking for feed back. Just as an FYI, upgrading from tmw. And mostly fly F-18 and the F-16. ( thinking of later flying the AV8) thank you

A few days ago my Warthog throttle died like so many others and I just wanted to post a quick fix that just might get you going again until you can sort it out with an official board replacement/repair. This worked for me and I have not seen anybody else recover their throttle in any posts I have read. I found that by reducing the 5V line on the USB cable to less than 4.5V, the throttle came back to life. I did this by simply putting a Non powered USB hub between the throttle and PC, you could also add some other items onto the hub to load it down a bit more. Most people seem to try connecting direct to system board or another powered USB hub thinking it might be a low voltage issue causing the throttle to fail, which is the logical way to think. Another alternative would be to supply your own external power to the USB line to the throttle only that can be adjusted to less than 4.5V, isolating the power line from the PC/Hub, but only do this if you are confident in what you are doing. If you are faced with a dead throttle or stick give it a try, if you have had a failed firmware update you will have to do the firmware update again and get the last green verification tick before it will work properly. You can read my full ordeal with this issue here: https://forums.eagle.ru/forum/english/dcs-world-topics/input-and-output/thrustmaster-aa/64402-post-motherboard-specs-of-bricked-tm-warthogs-here-please?p=7130525#post7130525 Cheers Tri.

Howdy everyone, I've had this F-16 throttle arm sitting around in my room the last few years, and I've finally decided to do something with it. I'd been trying to find an actual grip that I could use with it, so that I could just plug it into the existing wiring, but, I couldn't find one. I did however, find a nice 1:1 cad model of an F-16A grip here: http://www.seedling.org/The_Official_Hempstick_Site/F16_Throttle.html I went ahead and got them all printed, minus the comm switch, since I'll need the 4-way hat instead, but aside from that, they are pretty nice. So far, I've only attached the grip to the arm, and gotten the pinky trigger on. Now I'm just in the process of picking out what electronics I'm gonna use, and what board I'm gonna go with. I only have experience with Leo Bodnar boards, but I'm thinking of using an arduino this time around. I also went ahead and removed the wiring from the arm for the time being, as I'm not sure where I'd be able to find the connectors that it uses, but if I can find the throttle side connector, I might be able to use it, minus the canon plug. That's all a bit secondary at the moment though until I can figure out the mechanical side of things. I'm thinking about how to add a bit of resistance to the throttle movement, since at the moment it just kind of flops around, and the friction wheel is kind of, all or nothing, so, not ideal. After seeing the hydraulic damper that mfg has got for their crosswinds, I'm thinking that might be a good way to go, and I think it could also be useful as a point to mount a magnet and hall effect sensor or GMR sensor to make the analog output for it. Development is gonna be pretty slow, since so far the only diy project I've done is the Hornet UFC that Brun made, and obviously I didn't make anything for that, lol. So, trying to make plans and figure out stuff and troubleshooting and such is definitely gonna be a learning experience, but, I'm looking forward to it. Aside from all that though, does anyone happen to have a good 1:1 template for the throttle rail? My search has been coming up pretty dry, and the help would be much appreciated.

Hi, I followed the instructions via Youtube of Jon's gaming and tech. And I have my throttle set up as follows for the F/A-18C: before the first detent off over the first detent idle (70% power) between 1st and 2 detent 70-99% power over the second detent Afterburner I am new to the game and my gut feeling is that 70% seems a bit high for idle. on the other hand, the full throw is only 29% and allows me to micromanage my speed very well. Do you guys have a similar power distribution? Thanks for your input.

Hi, I installed DCS again after some months off and wanted to fly the newly purchased A-10C II. Sadly the coolie hat isn´t working. I thought maybe it is broken, but when testing and recalibrating the throttle outside of DCS everything is OK, at least in the Windows 10 testing window. Did everyone know this error or could point me to an approach how I could find out the problem? I also loaded up Arma 3, mapped the coolie hat to the vision and could without any problems move my vision in any direction using the coolie hat, so it must be a problem with DCS... I hope somebody could help me. Greetings

Been wondering about this behavior. Like, should you keep advancing throttle to keep power up until supercharger kicks in while climbing? Ok, the MP jump on supercharger kick in, that's how it worked. http://www.aviation-history.com/engines/merlin.htm

TLDR: two parameters of the engines, EGT, and nozzle area may be off, leading degraded transient performance. I think there may be 2 discrepancies with the F404 engines leading to marginal performance in the transient response of the engine. By which I mean the thrust output of the engine shortly after the throttle is moved. For now I will be discussing the response of the engine from Idle to Mil. The two issues are, 1, the EGT is too low and 2. The engine’s exit nozzle schedule may be off. First, the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) on the engines looks low. The charts in the NFM-000, pages III-10-15, provide the operating EGT and RPM as function of temperature. The chart indicates, At full mil, with an inlet temp of zero celsius, the engine operates at 99% RPM with an EGT of between 830 c and 860 c. In game the EGT is ~ 815c, which is below the minimum operating condition. Low EGT is indicative of an engine that is under-performing and not putting out enough thrust. While the difference seems marginal. Low EGT can lead to a set of interconnected discrepancies. Which results in an underperforming engine. These interdependencies would exhibit themselves most strongly in the areas of transient response. IE The power output of the engine, while and shortly after the throttle is moved. Now on to the nozzle area issue. Which, maybe a case of the tail wagging the dog. In the F404, At full mill and above, the engine’s exit nozzle size (A8) is varied with temperature sensed aft of the low pressure turbine. (T5). Below Full mil the area is scheduled with the throttle position. When the throttle is moved to the full Mill position, the nozzles closes until the EGT limiter kicks on. https://www.sto.nato.int/publications/AGARD/AGARD-CP-448/AGARD-CP-448.pdf Page 64. https://asmedigitalcollection.asme.org/GT/proceedings-pdf/GT1990/79054/V002T02A035/2399309/v002t02a035-90-gt-357.pdf The result is a rapid rise in thrust. Below is engine data taken from a takeoff of CF-18 with 404-400’s. I’ve overlaid the nozzle position with time and the thrust with time charts. It shows the relationship between the thrust onset and the nozzle position. Note the rapid rise in thrust once the nozzle fully closes. Max thrust is reached ~ 3 seconds after the nozzle closes. The source is a Canadian paper on the development of computer model of the F404-400. https://curve.carleton.ca/c6dd200c-1bce-4711-9596-443f1cf85e70 In game, the only time I can get the nozzle position to 0 is when the throttle is 50% or lower. I know our Hornet has a different model engine, a 404-402. However, the 402 has higher thermal limits and therefore the nozzle position should stay closed even longer ~ 4 seconds when the throttle is moved to mil. If the nozzle position is too large during the transient, performance suffers. https://www.sto.nato.int/publications/AGARD/AGARD-CP-448/AGARD-CP-448.pdf Page 398. Since the resulting loss of performance tends to only show up in the transient response of the engine. It’s easy to miss the effect a misscheduled nozzle has on engine performance. NASA had the same problem with their dynamic engine model of the F404 https://www.nasa.gov/centers/dryden/pdf/88204main_H-1643.pdf Worse case scenario for the in game Hornet is that the combustor and or compressor isn’t operating properly and the nozzle is scheduled to far open. Or is the nozzle just too far open resulting in lower than optimum EGT’s? I suspect the latter, that the nozzle schedule is simply off. I can think of two reasons why this may have happened. First, there may have been a misinterpretation of the schedule. Most of the literature about the engine says, the nozzles are fully closed at “Intermediate Rated Power” IPR. Which seems like it would be 50% of the throttle lever range. However GE and NASA define IRP as full mill, 87° Power level angle. https://www.nasa.gov/centers/dryden/pdf/88068main_H-1375.pdf https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a164562.pdf Since the nozzle area only seem to close to 0% at 50% throttle, it may be that it’s simply misscheduled, because the term intermediate rated power is confusing. The nozzle area may also be off because of how the game translates joystick position into throttle angle. This is related to where full mill is throttle range in game Vs IRL. In game full Mil is approximately 75% of the throttle position. In the real jet, Ground Idle, is 18°, Flight idle is 32°, full mil power is 87° and max power AB is 130° Power Lever Angle. So the throttle operates over 98° of PLA in flight and 112° of PLA at ground idle. At ground idle, if we want full mil the throttle lever should be moved 87° of throttle. This is ~ 77% (87/112) of the range of the real jet. In game full mil occurs at 75% throttle.So how does the game handle the scaling difference. It could be a source of mismatch, you may be taking off at below mil power. With the engine operating on a below optimal engine schedule. The same is also true while inflight. The throttle operates over 98° from 32° flight idle to 130° Max A/B, With full Mil power at 87°. Full mil in the real jet is at %88 of the throttle, while in game it’s at 75%. Depending on how the scaling is handled, with your joystick at 75% you may not actually be in AB yet. Which could make AB light times seem too long. Concluding, I think it would be a good idea to check the nozzle scheduling. If that’s correct, Then perhaps check how the joystick to throttle angle scaling is handled and see if there are any discrepancies. Then perhaps look at compressor and combstor engine performance. In order to find out if there is an issue with engine performance in transient response. enginerunup.trk

Hi all, I've had my throttle for about 6 years now and it's been working fantastically. I'd never used the throttle OFF indents before. On testing I have the below issues with the OFF indents registering on both L and R throttles. Thrustmaster support tried to help but couldn't figure it out nor could offer a solution in my country. The video shows more clearly what is happening. Buttons 29 and 30 are the Throttle OFF indent triggers. Note 29 and 30 both register at throttle 0%. 29 flickers on and off at 0% and 30 registers at 0% and in the OFF indent. https://youtu.be/LM5oQjTG_0o I've pulled it apart but the throttle sensors (HALL i think) are well enclosed it seems. Any suggestions on how to fix would be appreciated before I start pulling things apart further EDIT: I have also run through the Thrustmaster warthog throttle calibration tool (V1.07) which is what they asked me to do.

PART 1 Hello and welcome to my Thrustmaster Warthog throttle pinky switch replacement guide. I live in the UK and have found it difficult to find any information with regards to replacing the pinky switch in the UK specifically. I found numerous vids and advice on HOW to replace it, but not WHERE I could source the correct switch from in the UK. This guide presumes you are comfortable taking apart your beloved throttle and have access to, and can use, a soldering iron. No special tools are required. If you're reading this you probably already know that there are an abundance of SPDT switches out there, and if you don't know what one of those is, like I didn't, just google it. It'll make more sense. I found it difficult to decipher all the sizes and switch types so I wanted to share exactly WHAT switch I used and WHERE it came from at a very reasonable price. So lets get to it.... THE SWITCH From a reputable electronics company, RS Components. RS stock number: 7347139 REMOVAL OF SWITCH To remove, undo the 2 phillips screws holding the left throttle together. They are located on the INBOARD side of the throttle. The OUTBOARD panel that the switch sits in should now start to come away from the body of the throttle. ***NOTE - IF THE INBOARD PLASTIC PANELSTARTS TO COME AWAY, TRY TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING. THAT PART ISN'T DESIGNED TO COME AWAY WITHOUT FURTHER DISSASSEMBLY. You will find 2 black spacers inside that will become loose once the screws are fully removed. Take those out and keep them safe with the screws. At this point don't worry about which way around they go as I'll specify that later on. I'm going to have to break this post up into stages as my images are too big and limited to a max of 5MB per post.

Hey all, I'm experiencing a frustrating and intermittent throttle issue in the F/A-18C with my Hotas X. I've never had this issue in the past, and as I've just returned to DCS after about 6 months, I can't confirm if it was a specific update or not. OpenBeta - Latest version F/A-18C Sim Thrustmaster HOTAS X Windows 10 Oculus Rift CV1 JoyToKey for button box VoiceAttack The issue: When applying any amount of throttle input on my HOTAS, the in game throttle will move to the registered value, then slowly and "jerkingly" reset back to 0% throttle. Reproduction: Only happens on cold starts, which I know isn't game breaking but I wouldn't be flying with DCS if I wasn't looking for immersion. Cold start, regular procedures, throttle doesn't work properly. I've tried to detect a specific procedure (flaps, bit testing, FCS reset etc) that causes it, but it doesn't seem to matter. It's completely random, but if it doesn't occur by the time I'm ready to takeoff, the throttle works properly. Things I've tried: - Unmapped everything (I mean everything) from other planes, F/A-18C Game, and axis assignments from other sources - Reset all controls to default - Uninstalled/Reinstalled HOTAS drivers - Changed axis tuning on the throttle mapping - Tried different missions (I'm currently flying a custom mission, and I have checked and confirmed that Game Controls is unchecked in mission editor) - Checked HOTAS X game input (works proper) - Applied throttle input during startup procedure (this sometimes actually works, if I check the throttle input after each process) Summary: It's a very difficult issue to diagnose, as it seems almost completely random. It seems like there is another source of axis input that is causing it, but there is literally no other axis assigned in any other menu. I do use a button box for some startup controls (battery, set throttle's to idle, trims), which sounds like it could cause an issue; however, I've tried moving the controls off of my button box and using the default keyboard controls and the problem persists. A weird note is that the throttle mapping in the menu at 0% starts on the right, then as I move to 50% throttle it moves to the left to the center then disappears. As I move the throttle to 100%, it then continues to move to the left until it maxes out. It seems "reversed" but no amount of axis tuning or reverse box ticking changes this. In axis tuning, it's getting data for both the X and Y axis for the throttle (I expected to only see one). If I remove one of the axis so it only reads from one or the other, I get no input response at all. TM control panel shows expected input, starting at the bottom with 0%, and a steady increase to 100% as I apply input. I'm in the process of upgrading my rig, but this issue almost defeats the current purpose if I can never reliably conduct a cold start. I'm starting to think it's a HOTAS issue, but I've never had an issue with this joystick in the past, and it works properly in other titles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Video of issue: https://streamable.com/sf4f8s

Hi, I have a Saitek/Logitech G X56 H.O.T.A.S. And I'm trying the set it up where the 2-position Slider(JOY_BTN33), on the throttle, toggles the afterburners in the F/A-18C. But when I try to set it up, it only binds/detects when the slider is pushed forwards. And when I try it in game, it only toggles when the slider is pushed forward/doesn't toggle when pushed backwards. Unlike Microsoft Flight Simulator, which does respond to both positions. Video of me trying to show my issue Microsoft Flight Simulator example (what I want it to do)

Trying to cold start L39. Can't move throttle off of 'stop'. Version Multi Thread Preview 2.8.3.37556.

Please ED, make adjustable detents for cutoff/idle and afterburner in axis controls like in BMS Falcon for example. Thank you!

I am looking at buying a new Trottle. Will the Wing Wing Orion 2 work well for Warbirds?

Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen, I purchased a module for the SU-33 (Love this jet!) a while back and haven't really got into DCS yet, but thanks to the efforts of a few YouTube influencers I am thinking about getting into it on a casual level. So far I've only been in newbie-servers a few times just to get my airplane in the air and back again. Haven't even gotten into radar yet and the likes of that. I am living in the Netherlands so the choice of joysticks and throttles isn't that broad. Up until now I have been playing with a old Microsoft Sidewinder Joystick (X05-63895) with USB and even though it 'kinda' works it isn't really an optimal solution for me since I don't really have anything to control the throttle/brakes with? What would be good types/models/brands of joysticks and throttles to start with and specially the combination of joysticks/throttles? And what about their connectivity? Is it all USBs? For someone that isn't using VR or headtrackers, is there an alternative to tilt the view from within the cockpit? (PS5 controller perhaps?) I'm looking for something that might be in the max 300 euro price range if that is at all possible for both throttle and joystick? Kind Regards!

I just wanted to show off a mod to my throttle. I added a potentiometer axis for antenna elevation (i imbedded a small secondary board into the unit for more axis/buttons) that I can switch between absolute value (F-16 Radar Elevation) or I can screw in a return to center on it for the F-18 and upcoming F-15E. null In total, my throttle modifications include: 2 new push buttons on the right throttle grip 2 new push buttons on the left throttle grip 1 new axis (antenna elevation) Optional return to center / absolute TM Warthog Slew mod Push through AB detent I must say that the return to center axis using a potentiometer (with really tight rubber bands) feels really good. Well worth the work. Hopefully this helps out some of you looking for a good solution for the upcoming F-15E, while still having it work for the F-16.