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EDIT/ADD: -Boost gauge tricky to read. Further down thread (see image) I found "true non bugged" idle boost ca -6.2. -I stupidly wrote zero (0) when meaning lowest idle boost. Edited to -6.2 in text (red). At no point during testing (all tests, all posts) did it actually show zero (0). Except engine off obviously. -Spitfire. Bugged (idle) high boost shifts between -3 or -4 depending HOTAS RPM level max/min. Might jump straight to post #6 (first with image). Previous posts I grasped less what's happening. Also, probably not intermittent (one thing I didn't grasp). I crashed Spitfire, did Quit -> Fly again. Suddenly Spitfire rolled on Spawn Rwy. Spitfire & P-51 both increase idle <1000 ~1500, Boost goes to -4 Spitfire instead of idle 0 -6.2. Seen once P-51, Spitfire all the time. Not tried others. When observed with Thrustmasters own software "Device Analyzer". All buttons work, analog hit correct endpoints (0-16383 for example). When plugging in the throttle the boost & rpm increases. What can this be? Throttle otherwise seems to work as it should, ie I can increase & decrease, just starting from boost -4 instead of zero -6.2 (Spitfire). Calibration? This has never happened before, bought 2018, so ie five years old, so I fear something more problematic is afoot.
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So long story short, about a year ago I bought a custom TM Warthog faceplate from a gentleman who sells them on eBay for about 40 USD, and while I was initially pleased with it, it had some labels that really didn't work for me (i.e. INTR Wing Inhibit, etc.). It was also 3mm thick which made it too rigid to bend when installing or removing it. In fact, I actually broke a piece of it off. I primarily fly the Hornet, so I designed and created my own after purchasing and heavily modifying a K40 Laser earlier this year. It took several iterations to get to where it is now, but I am happy with the result. It's 1.5 mm white acrylic painted matte black. The design utilizes the LEDs on the base. I just wish TM had put more LEDs to make all the labels backlit. Now that I have the design perfected, I can make additional plates for other aircraft in DCS. I'm thinking about selling them for those that are looking for something customizable at an affordable price point. Would love to get some feedback. Here it is on the base:
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The four screws holding the four poles (see picture) from below must be tightened to eliminate any wiggle of the poles before anything else is reassembled. (reusing old image, the washers in the pic are unrelated) To get at the four screws from below the base plate must be removed. This gets access to three of the four screws. Remove the two small screws holding the circuit board and gently push it aside to get at the fourth. One can not get any good grip on the poles to tighten them well, nor does one need to. Just screw them enough so there no is wiggling of the poles. Put the top part together. Tighten both screws of each pole at the same time with two screw drivers. If tightened from only one end the other end (especially bottom) may rotate. Reassembling the whole thing without eliminating the wiggle first will not work. Also, if tightening them first before assembling the top, you'll know the resistance you'll get is real and there's less risk of threading. ~ Figured this out yesterday. I had a small wiggle, reassembled and now have zero wiggle. I can now not move the joystick ever so slightly without also seeing the virtual stick move. Solved this problem for me. I didn't understand how I could have wiggle given how the joystick is designed. No matter mechanical wiggle the sensors always see movement (unless the poles can move). I had reassembled it incorrectly when I had this wiggle and I believe the poles were moving a little.
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