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[opensource] A-10c EMI gauge with arduino and PCB KiCad file...


overpro

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Hi Overpro

 

re -

/*

Regarding the fp-lib-table.for-github, because I'm using the latest nightly build of KiCad, the project management is quite different compared to the downloaded Windows build which was released in 2013 July, I recommend you compile the KiCad by using KiCad-Winbuilder: https://launchpad.net/kicad-winbuilder

*/

 

There is an issue a couple of guys have run into with the glew module in the 3.4 build

https://bugs.launchpad.net/kicad-winbuilder/+bug/1331544

I downloaded an earlier build and copied the files across, have got past that point and in the middle of the build now.

 

 

So I haven't yet got to see 3.4 in action, but I'm really impressed with the windows stable build, just amazing the opensource projects that are out there today.

 

Cheers

 

Peter

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Hi overpro,

 

My arduino Uno have no 22~30 pin, which version arduino for use 22 ~ 30 pin ?

 

How about Export.lua ? Whether need to edit? Can I use your Export.lua with Helios together?

 

Thanks a lot.

 

Hi Marick

 

On the UNO side of things, I'd suggest scoring the Arduino Mega, I just ordered another one yesterday, sub-$15 with free shipping.

 

Cheers

Peter

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys

 

thought I'd share an update. The drivers and steppers arrived, so put them together. And gave it a run through, all I can say is thanks again for sharing. First a couple of pics, note the use of Schmart Board to mount the SMD devices, works a treat for prototyping.

 

P1050217_zps007fba86.jpg

 

All the bits are needed

 

P1050216_zpse5ace24a.jpg

 

And the video, the combination of Hardware and software works a treat, nice and smooth, and very quick response


Edited by bnepethomas
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And a question - whats the easiest/best way to attach needles to stepper motors, the shaft in the single stepper is 1.00mm, 1.5 inner for the double, and 4.00mm for the outer on the double.

P1050223_zpscaa0ca66.jpg

 

I'm thinking a 3mm deep collar to help keep the needle flat, but got not idea on whats the best thing to keep needle in place on a circular shat.

 

cheers

Peter

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I have my steppers set back .5" from the faceplate on a separate piece of acrylic. I use two pieces of brass tubing with the inside diameter to match the shafts. Super glue is an excellent way to attach the tubing to the stepper shafts. The pointers weigh nothing so there are no stresses put on this joint. The super glue will not fail.

 

As to the needles/pointers I make a thin brass flange for each shaft and solder the flange to the shaft. Once that's in place you can again super glue the actual pointer to the flange and your ready to go.

 

Although this picture is a slightly different application the technique is the same. You can see the inner and outer shafts but look how the outer shaft is attached to the gear. There is a small flange which has been solder to the tube. Once that's in place you have a nice flat surface to glue the pointer too. Make the flange as large as the pointer will allow and make sure the flange is set perfectly perpendicular to the tube or the needle will look strange when it moves.

 

BTW, if you where wondering what this picture is, its a double shaft volume/frequency build for the right side of the ILS. Outside shaft sets vol through the use of gears to the pot beside it and inside shaft connects directly to the rotary encoder to set frequency.

15726729326_c95abb9b92_c.jpgIMG_0267 by JFWall, on Flickr

 

I just received my steppers and driver IC''s as well so I am almost at the same point as you. I hope the soldering for the SMD chip was easy as it looks. I am a little apprehensive to say the least about soldering these 6606 IC to a PCB.

 

In closing, if you do a search on Goggle for DIY flight sim gauges, pick images from the top menu and scroll through all of the pics it finds of the gauges made by other people. There are a lot and it should spark some ideas if your stuck.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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And a question - whats the easiest/best way to attach needles to stepper motors, the shaft in the single stepper is 1.00mm, 1.5 inner for the double, and 4.00mm for the outer on the double.

 

I'm thinking a 3mm deep collar to help keep the needle flat, but got not idea on whats the best thing to keep needle in place on a circular shat.

 

cheers

Peter

 

I was thinking to make a sleeve from some round stock of rubbery resin/ material. Think rubber bushing with small enough inner hole to grab the shaft. Cylindrical pointer holder is compressed on top.

 

I see that you found a source for the dual shaft model, care to share? :)

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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I was thinking to make a sleeve from some round stock of rubbery resin/ material. Think rubber bushing with small enough inner hole to grab the shaft. Cylindrical pointer holder is compressed on top.

 

I see that you found a source for the dual shaft model, care to share? :)

Thanks for the replies guys, re the source of steppers, its the same crowd I got the driver chips from:

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6273284462.html

 

I dug out Mike Powell's building instruments book last night, he also recommends using the Brass tubing, so time to head to a hobby shop.

 

cheers

Peter

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Hi guys

 

thought I'd share an update. The drivers and steppers arrived, so put them together. And gave it a run through, all I can say is thanks again for sharing. First a couple of pics, note the use of Schmart Board to mount the SMD devices, works a treat for prototyping.

 

P1050217_zps007fba86.jpg

 

All the bits are needed

 

P1050216_zpse5ace24a.jpg

 

And the video, the combination of Hardware and software works a treat, nice and smooth, and very quick response

 

 

 

:pilotfly: Good to see :)

overpro = I'm not good at Nintendo Mario and always get "Game over" pretty fast, so over~~pro

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Overpro & bnepethomas,

 

I got what is probably a stupid question.

 

I have tried get this up and running for test purposes. But I appear to be stuck as it doesn't seem like the lua code is sending any information.

 

To keep it simple I have used Overpros lua from the first post and only edited the IP address to be inline what the Arduino board is set for (192.168.87.115). Then also to keep it simple I changed the name from OverproExport.lua, to simply Export.lua so that I am certain it will start when DCS is running.

 

I have used Wireshark to monitor the information but but nothing is sent from my PC to the Arduino, i.e. nothing shows up as Source 192.168.87.106 , Destination 192.168.87.115

 

A kind pointer towards what I my mistake is highly appreciated.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Cheers

Hans

1249178785_OverproexportIPchanged.thumb.jpg.dee5554840d3fca537d6728eb0e05386.jpg

688162540_OverproarduinoIPchanged.jpg.5a6433769ee22e98cc3f7e08b332267a.jpg

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I have used Wireshark to monitor the information but but nothing is sent from my PC to the Arduino, i.e. nothing shows up as Source 192.168.87.106 , Destination 192.168.87.115

 

A kind pointer towards what I my mistake is highly appreciated.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Your computer is probably not on the 192.168.87.0/24 network.

 

It probably has an IP address that starts with 192.168.0 or 192.168.1 and a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0, which means it cannot reach the 192.168.87.115 address.

 

Try giving the Arduino an IP address that only differs from your computer's in the last group of numbers.

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Hi Ian,

 

Not a bad idea but the PC is in fact on the 192.168.87.106 network. I am having you setup running on an Uno (192.168.87.120) for NMSP as can be seen on attachment. An it works great :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Hi Hans

 

First thing I'd do is divide the problem space up, either we've got a network or scripting issue. Can you ping the address of the Arduino? ie at the command prompt issue the command "ping 192.168.87.115"? You should see echos being received.

 

I'll get my A-Into-G and put up my working scripts for the fuel panel today.

 

Cheers

 

Peter

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To keep it simple I have used Overpros lua from the first post

I re-read your post, noticed this line and took a closer look at the Lua code.

 

It should work after you add the following lines to the beginning of the file:

package.path  = package.path..";.\\LuaSocket\\?.lua"
package.cpath = package.cpath..";.\\LuaSocket\\?.dll"
 
socket = require("socket")

 

The problem is that the code failed to load the socket library. It probably worked when overpro tested it because he ran it after something else (e.g. Helios) that had already loaded the socket library.

 

Also note that this code will not work together with other Export.lua files (unless it is the first one in the chain) because it does not make sure to call any previously defined export functions.


Edited by [FSF]Ian
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Thanks a lot for the assistance gents. Much appreciated. Yes I am able to ping the Arduino Mega + Ethernet shield.

 

Good call Ian on the socket library. I will dig into it a little further as eventually I need it to be running with Helios and Ian's Expermental branch.

 

I will look further into it when I get a second breadboard. The current is now filled up with combining MCP23017 I/O expander plus IRF510 MOSFET to drive small bulbs, with Ian's experimental branch. Works great by the way :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans

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  • 8 months later...

Hello,

i know this topic is quite old, but I found it while searching on the internet.

At the moment I'm building a Dashboard for car Racing games and used the switec motors without Vid6606. I ran out of pins and ordered some of these ( I'm using Arduino Nano)

 

I have changed your code a little bit to support Data over the serial Port. Only onere Vid6606 and 595 are used. I'm using 74HD595 i hope this makes no difference.

 

I can get the Motors to move but i have to add a delay of 200 microseconds to the loop. Otherwise there is no motor movement. But this delay really much brings down the speed of the motors.

 

Maybe you have some tipps for me? And thank you for sharing and documenting your work.

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Hello,

i know this topic is quite old, but I found it while searching on the internet.

At the moment I'm building a Dashboard for car Racing games and used the switec motors without Vid6606. I ran out of pins and ordered some of these ( I'm using Arduino Nano)

 

I have changed your code a little bit to support Data over the serial Port. Only onere Vid6606 and 595 are used. I'm using 74HD595 i hope this makes no difference.

 

I can get the Motors to move but i have to add a delay of 200 microseconds to the loop. Otherwise there is no motor movement. But this delay really much brings down the speed of the motors.

 

Maybe you have some tipps for me? And thank you for sharing and documenting your work.

 

200mS delay is too long, the VID series stepper can be driven in much higher frequency ( 200 Hz, from the specification: http://www.vidmotion.com/en/WebSite/support.aspx).

overpro = I'm not good at Nintendo Mario and always get "Game over" pretty fast, so over~~pro

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