Jump to content

Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods


Recommended Posts

my micro pro has arrived! :) have got mmjoy onto it & tonight i will start re-assembling my throttle...

 

 

think i am going to attempt to do something like this:

 

https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/171432/warthog-thumbstick-mod-now-with-tutorial

 

as i play elite dangerous alot a couple of analog sticks would be very cool (one to replace the slider, & one for the front next to the hat)

 

:joystick::pilotfly:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got a Suncom SFS throttle and Talon from Ebay... I'm using the real simulator FUSBA USB conversion kit. I have 2 issues, one is asymmetric thrust on throttles that re-calibration won't fix. The other is TDC on throttle only has left and down working and not up or right.

 

Anyone know how to remove TDC pcb board so I can test switch? I'm thinking something wrong with wiring. On FUSBA everything works fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got a Suncom SFS throttle and Talon from Ebay... I'm using the real simulator FUSBA USB conversion kit. I have 2 issues, one is asymmetric thrust on throttles that re-calibration won't fix. The other is TDC on throttle only has left and down working and not up or right.

 

Anyone know how to remove TDC pcb board so I can test switch? I'm thinking something wrong with wiring. On FUSBA everything works fine.

 

Remove these two screws

 

QB1pN76.jpg

 

Than these four screws

 

RUvFzkd.jpg

 

You have to pull out two knobs and then you can remove PCB.


Edited by debolestis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you will need a circuit that convert pot' output voltage variation 0 ~5v in ON-OFF signal to LED, e.g 0-1v turn ON LED1, 1- 2v turn ON LED2... etc.

What means a little complicated circuit with logic switch's, not a simple dimmer.

 

My "solution" for these LED - find them too "toy" in a F-15, all this "Christmas Lights" on sticks belong to Saitek. :)

 

SFS_base.jpg

 

~0,5 mm black plastic sheet. :)

 

Anyway I save the LED and buttons for a "button box". :smilewink:

 

where did you get the black plastic? I have seen it many times in my IT career, but I cant remember where, or what its called/used for...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove these two screws

 

20150505_093707_zpsvgozzzzb.jpg

 

Than these four screws

 

20150505_093715_zps1igqhvdv.jpg

 

You have to pull out two knobs and then you can remove PCB.

 

How do I remove the 2 knobs without damage them? I take it you're talking about the TDC and 4 way hat switches

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't use too much force, they were not glued in my sfs. I used small screwdriver as lever. It was not difficult.

 

So to remove TDC and 4 way hat so I can pull the board out I need to pry them out with screwdriver?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, I was able to remove... Now I just need to solder new wiring to test the switch to see if TDC switch needs replacement or if it was some issue with the wiring.

 

Do you know what Gage wire is originally used on the throttle? My local radio shack does not have very thin wires like these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I was able to test the function of TDC... And here are the results:

 

Down and left on TDC work properly just as expected however the right and up function do not...

 

Even after being pressed with exposed wire on the junction of wiring of the up and the right onto the PC board respectively... The functions still do not work, I suspect the switches are needing replacement.

 

The same technique done but connecting to the diode of each function shows it works... So naturally my best guess is that the up and right micro switch need replacement with new switch of same type.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I was able to test the function of TDC... And here are the results:

 

Down and left on TDC work properly just as expected however the right and up function do not...

 

Even after being pressed with exposed wire on the junction of wiring of the up and the right onto the PC board respectively... The functions still do not work, I suspect the switches are needing replacement.

 

The same technique done but connecting to the diode of each function shows it works... So naturally my best guess is that the up and right micro switch need replacement with new switch of same type.

 

Check switches with multimeter, it could be a switch but in my case it was the wires, they were very thin and few were actually broken, if that is the case you'll probably have to disassemble the throttle, because there is no other way to replace them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

where did you get the black plastic? I have seen it many times in my IT career, but I cant remember where, or what its called/used for...

 

If I remember correct is from old 1.44' disket :)

Thin and robust.

 

They are glued in place using silicone hot glue by inside through LED holes, so the original box is not altered/damaged.


Edited by Sokol1_br
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have a multimeter, I'm really new to electronics other than very basic soldering

 

And how can I get that enclosure off so I can get at the switches too?

 

You absolutely must get multimeter, even the cheapest will do, it is essential tool in thing like this and all electronics.

 

fniBa9m.jpg

 

Set multimeter to measuring resistance, then touch these two terminals, and if you measure around zero ohms than switch is OK. It is same thing on opposite side.


Edited by debolestis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I just soldered some new wiring and ran it directly to the needed pins using jumpers and it still won't work.

 

I also don't see how I can have access to the switches with that plastic enclosure blocking my way to it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thing that you call "TDC" is just a ordinary 4 way HAT - 4 switch around a pole.

 

Is difficult that one these switch "broken", and even less two, but eventually can happen.

Be measuring with multimeter between two pins you are assuring that the problem is in the switch, or not.

 

If not, the problem can be a broken wire, or since Suncom sticks are old - the production end in ~2003 - can happen that the fault is in main PCB circuit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried solder directly the red power wire from the board to the pin on FUSBA using jumper and also the black wire to board and still does not work...

 

However, doing same thing works for down and left but up and right are not working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I remember correct is from old 1.44' disket :)

Thin and robust.

 

They are glued in place using silicone hot glue by inside through LED holes, so the original box is not altered/damaged.

 

ahhh! different stuff to what i was thinking of... but great thinking!!!! now need to see if i can find any old floppies!!!

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I just soldered some new wiring and ran it directly to the needed pins using jumpers and it still won't work.

 

I also don't see how I can have access to the switches with that plastic enclosure blocking my way to it

 

did this last night as i'm replacing the castle hat with an xbox analog stick..

 

 

the black plastic part is held to the pcb by pins through the back that they have melted on the other side (you will see the melted plastic)

 

you can either cut these off with a sharp knife (be very carefull!!!) or i used my dremmel multitool to grind the plastic down to the pcb, after this the plastic should come off (you can mount it back on with 4 dots of hot glue on the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A easy way to confirm if the switch are really broken is - if you already don't do this - is take these wires that you solder in parallel with original wires and touch the common* wire for this HAT (TDC), the button position should by ON.

 

The common wire are OK because two of the switch's are working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need more detailed explanation maybe photos would help

 

The HAT I'm talking about is the round spider web looking hat on the left throttle, this is used as TDC on the real aircraft, however on suncom you can't push this to lock radar targets but you can on real F-15. I'm thinking about modifying this so it is just like real F-15 E as was intended with the suncom design idea.


Edited by Baz000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...