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Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods


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i have a suncom HOTAS. does anyone know what kind of tactile switches are used for the crown hat, and index hat 4 way switches, or a recommended replacement for those tactile switches, there are so many of them on mouser and digi-key...

 

a few i purchased are either to soft or did not "click" like the suncom made ones...

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i have a suncom HOTAS. does anyone know what kind of tactile switches are used for the crown hat, and index hat 4 way switches, or a recommended replacement for those tactile switches, there are so many of them on mouser and digi-key...

 

a few i purchased are either to soft or did not "click" like the suncom made ones...

 

I also had trouble findig these switches, it seem like there is crap and 100$ switches, almost nothing in between...

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I worked a litlle on Raptor. It had broken triger, I glued it with epoxy, it seems OK now.

 

GXBCRcG.jpg

 

n9OIwDI.jpg

 

I also worked on switches in a base, I wired it basically as 8 switches, toggle switch is switching between two rows.

 

drx5gty.jpg

 

IM6F9PB.jpg

 

gIRCTrZ.jpg

 

ID7JmV8.jpg

 

c2z2UqY.jpg

 

88t41BL.jpg

 

There is place for 3 connectors on, one for base switches, one for grip switches and on for Leo Bodnar's board.


Edited by debolestis
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Okay, I just tested my switches with multimeter using continuity test... Results are the left and bottom switch is working and the right and top are not... So looks like I need to replace those switches...

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Okay, I just tested my switches with multimeter using continuity test... Results are the left and bottom switch is working and the right and top are not... So looks like I need to replace those switches...

 

That is it then.

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great so I tried to do the very same, but I have no idea what switch to replace it with... And I tried to replace it with some extra micro switches I had from FUSBA replacement from the original Suncom programming PCB board and it seems like its a different type of switch...

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great so I tried to do the very same, but I have no idea what switch to replace it with... And I tried to replace it with some extra micro switches I had from FUSBA replacement from the original Suncom programming PCB board and it seems like its a different type of switch...

Just to clarify, specifically which switch is not working?

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The suspected bad switch (the one out of the 4 connected to the grey TDC 4 way HAT)... Also, I'm wondering if there is way to add another function which is if I push down it will lock a target so instead of only 4 way hat it is 4 way +push down...

 

IMG_02051.jpg

 

IMG_02061.jpgIMG_02071.jpg

 

The switch I modified to replace it with... In original form and condition...

 

IMG_02081.jpg

 

IMG_02091.jpgIMG_02101.jpg

 

The same switch once modified in size and removed other 2 contact posts....

 

IMG_02111.jpg

 

Looks to me like these 2 switches are not the same, but rather different... Just need to know what to replace that TDC switch with, I tried attaching the switch I modded but it was too loose when trying to press the button using the pole on the TDC

 

IMG_02141.jpg

 

Hope that helps explain...


Edited by Baz000
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The best switch to replace these is the one for mount at 90 degrees with additional support:

 

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/long-life-micro-6x6x5mm-right-angle_60111382978.html

 

The one in Alibaba has extra pins for better fix, since Suncom PCB dont have hole for these support pins, cut the pins, but leave the support.

 

I guess that this modified switch, due the bent pin with use will cause HAT failure soon...

 

Also, I'm wondering if there is way to add another function which is if I push down it will lock a target so instead of only 4 way hat it is 4 way +push down...

 

The easy way to get 5 funcions with click be press the HAT is replace this HAT with one these "direction/navigation switch" like this (more cheap on eBay).

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/RKJXT1F42001/?qs=6EGMNY9ZYDTsBzSTrhiL0w%3D%3D

http://www.rlx.sk/en/joystick-keyboard-switch/3031-alps-skqu-4-direction-joystick-w-switch-ef-07025-skqucaa010.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-SKQU-4-Direction-Joystick-with-Switch-4-direction-DIY-Maker-Seeed-BOOOLE-/171708309125?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fa9cde85

 

BUT, the TUSBA has extra connection needed to control this extra button?

 

Is possible moddify the actual, but involve will a bit laborious due the small space and made some modifications inside the handle to get more space.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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so you're saying my mad scientist micro switch fix may not work after all?

 

Anyone know if there is any way to modify the throttle detent where the afterburner is so I can move it further back so that I could use it for multiple stages of afterburner? And how does this detent work on the real F-15?


Edited by Baz000
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Will work, but probable start fail soon, if the switch bend a fraction of millimeter will loose the click.

 

Anyone know if there is any way to modify the throttle detent where the afterburner is so I can move it further back so that I could use it for multiple stages of afterburner? And how does this detent work on the real F-15?

 

If you increase the throttles lever actual movement, what you do with the potentiometer?

You cant increase the length of his resistive trail...

 

You need create these extra afterburner stages before the actual.

 

Real F-15 throttle there (being adapted for simulation).

 

http://www.f15sim.com/tech/throttle.html


Edited by Sokol1_br
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any mmjoy experts here?

 

everything is built & tested electronically (apart from one of my pots thats burnt out :()

 

i have connected everything up to MMjoy, & my axis work, but only random buttons work...

i think its to do with the button assignment...

 

 

i have 5 rows & 4 columns.

 

i think the reason some of them are working is because i dont know what button number in the matrix they will be so cannot assign them to joystick buttons...

 

as i cant see them in the button matrix (state) when i press them is this supposed to work in real time?

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everything is built & tested electronically (apart from one of my pots thats burnt out :()

 

Is difficult a pot "burn out" (will need a high current/tension), most probable the wiper loose contact - or maybe a broken resistive trail. Open the pot' case and inspect internally.

 

i have connected everything up to MMjoy, & my axis work, but only random buttons work...

i think its to do with the button assignment...

 

i have 5 rows & 4 columns.

 

i think the reason some of them are working is because i dont know what button number in the matrix they will be so cannot assign them to joystick buttons...

 

You are using one diode (1N4148...) in one pole of each switch to avoid "gost" buttons press?

 

Set the matrix buttons in MMjoy is a bit trick because for make the firmware compatible with different boards is need assign the buttons manually in Configurator program.

 

as i cant see them in the button matrix (state) when i press them is this supposed to work in real time?

 

Yes, when you close a button contact in MMjoy (Row x Column) the correspondent button should blink in Configurator or in Windows Game Controllers wizard.

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whats teh serial number of your throttle... very intresting that the sticks are metal.. mine are plastic, i wonder if yours is an earlier throttle or later one...

 

64026007

 

I bought mine on Ebay, It was supposed to be new and in original packaging but strange that 2 switches went bad when never used... I wonder if that means they were bad switches from the factory?

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Just out of curiosity how is everyone programming their joysticks after conversion? I ask because DCS doesn't support multiple key presses for a given task.

 

Will a Leo Board show up in T.A.R.G.E.T so it can be programmed?

 

One of the reasons I'm happy I gutted a Cougar stick for my F-15 rebuild is it should make programming easier.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Just out of curiosity how is everyone programming their joysticks after conversion? I ask because DCS doesn't support multiple key presses for a given task.

 

Will a Leo Board show up in T.A.R.G.E.T so it can be programmed?

 

One of the reasons I'm happy I gutted a Cougar stick for my F-15 rebuild is it should make programming easier.

 

I use Control Manager. Mine shows up as a ProThrottle. I used the X and Y axis of the mini-joystick for the X and Y axis of the throttles.

:joystick:

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Is difficult a pot "burn out" (will need a high current/tension), most probable the wiper loose contact - or maybe a broken resistive trail. Open the pot' case and inspect internally.

 

yeah the resistive trail is broken (litterally Burnt!)

 

 

 

You are using one diode (1N4148...) in one pole of each switch to avoid "gost" buttons press?

yep all switches have diodes wired in the correct polarity

 

Set the matrix buttons in MMjoy is a bit trick because for make the firmware compatible with different boards is need assign the buttons manually in Configurator program.

 

Yes, when you close a button contact in MMjoy (Row x Column) the correspondent button should blink in Configurator or in Windows Game Controllers wizard.

 

this is where i'm having difficulty...

i cant assign the buttons as the presses dont show up in mmjoy configurator..

if i assign 1-32 sequentially then some buttons work in windows joystick panel, but still dont show up as pressed in mmjoy...

 

am i supposed to use the drivers that come packaged with MMjoy? as i just downloaded the standard arduinio drivers from ardionio.

 

or maybe my arduinio is bad?

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this is where i'm having difficulty...

i cant assign the buttons as the presses dont show up in mmjoy configurator..

if i assign 1-32 sequentially then some buttons work in windows joystick panel, but still dont show up as pressed in mmjoy...

 

 

 

just a thought i'm using windows 8.1 x64.. could that be why MMjoy isnt showing the button presses?

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Just out of curiosity how is everyone programming their joysticks after conversion? I ask because DCS doesn't support multiple key presses for a given task.

 

Will a Leo Board show up in T.A.R.G.E.T so it can be programmed?

 

One of the reasons I'm happy I gutted a Cougar stick for my F-15 rebuild is it should make programming easier.

 

Can you post some photos of your mod?

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