Building My First A-10 Panels For My Pit

[agrasyuk]

indeed, that is some very nice workmanship. even tough panel is non prototypical those little details do bring it to life.

there is only one thing missing... ;)

[Deezle]

Thanks guys!

 

So here's the start of my CDU (no screen, just the "keyboard"). I had a realization, since I already have my keyboard mapped to control the CDU, why not use a keyboard input board for my CDU build.

 

So I took apart an old PS2 keyboard (I don't need yet another USB device), I then sat down with a meter and traced each key I needed. Keyboards use a matrix of "columns" and "rows" for the inputs. So I soldered the buttons into a 0.1" prototyping board and wired each button to the input board with magnet wire. Plugged it in and it works just like a keyboard. Engraving the button tops will likely be a challenge, I will most likely sand all of them flat, so the engraving depth is uniform.

 

I will be cutting the AAP portion of the panel off and move it behind the CDU.

 

[Deezle]

Here's the CDU keyboard integrated with the rest of the panels. All that left to do is fit the panels a bit better, get the standoffs correct to hold the button PCB a little lower, and engrave the buttons. They're ABS so we're gonna try using the laser first instead of sanding them flat and rotary engraving them.

 

Unfortunately the GP Wiz40 for the switches is giving me fits now. I ordered a Teensy 3.1 which will likely replace it if Groovygamegear decides they don't wanna replace this board for me. It'll be my first adventure into Arduino land.

 

[Mr_Burns]

First panel I made I "ripped" a keyboard, I followed some guide on the internet to create that matrix! I got the bug there.

 

I like your panels and the CDU idea is great, whilst I love the real CDUs the guys here build with screens (I had a dabble myself at a Eurofighter one) in A-10 I would rather look at the MFD in CDU mode than a 5" screen down in my side panel.

 

(Not bagging anyone for proper CDU, just how I play - respect!!)

[ClayM]

Nice work Deezle!

 

Just bought cnc myself. mind telling me what you used for engraving cutter and depth of cut. Also how do you do the white fill? Looks great.

 

Clay

[Deezle]

It's a standard profile engraving bit with a .005" tip, letter engraving is .010" deep. The white fill is lacquer stick

 

I got all my buttons laser engraved today and filled with paint, letting them dry overnight and gonna peel the masking off tomorrow and clean off any excess.

Edited August 25, 2015 by Deezle

[Warhog]

Clay, if you use engraving plastic, it is a 2 ply laminate. It has a very thin black surface and the rest is white. I use a 60 degree v-bit engraving tool with a .010" tip. Depth of cut is 0.004". Use a super fast spindle speed as I don't know what speeds you have but faster is best. I also use 30 degree profile cutters but you do need to take care as that 30 degree tip is rather prone to breakage if your not careful. These are the people I buy engraving cutters from. Excellent quality and service. Their product has proved to me that its worth buying from them.

https://www.2linc.com/engraving_tools.htm

 

They have lots of specialty cutters but this is the one I use for virtually everything: C-125-2.0-60-.010-S

 

Try not to buy Chinese for these. The quality is really important if you want to get good clean cuts. Believe me, it is money well spent and if treated properly they last a long time. I have cut over 30 panels out of engraving plastic and may 25 PCBs with the same cutter and only now am I thinking of replacing it. I use a 2 flute 1/16"diameter end mill (1/8" dia. shank) for the acrylic. Slow spindle speed and fast feed rate is what you need so it doesn't melt on you.

 

This is an example of what you should be getting as a final product assuming you set your feeds and speeds properly as well as cutting depth. This is also cut on engraving plastic.

 

 

 

 

Another consideration is that when you use engraving plastic you don't need to fill in letters. It just happens naturally.:smilewink:

[ClayM]

Thanks Guys

 

Gives me something to start with.

 

I'm going to order some of those cutters ASAP!

 

Deezle

 

Did you design your panels from scratch? Font size and everything else look very good(IMO)!

 

Warhog

 

Regarding your altimeter did you use the square endmill for the large numbers and graduations? And also where did you get/what kind of engraving plastic did you use for it?

 

Amazing what the results are that everyone is coming up with.

 

Thinking of starting a new CNC thread to discuss details. Any thoughts anybody?

 

Thanks

 

Clay

[Deezle]

I drew the panels from scratch, you can download the milspec font online.

 

I got my CDU keyboard back together with the engraving, it works great! I'll take pics once I touch up the fill paint a bit.

 

Also got my Teensy 3.1 today and ham-fisted my way through the code to make it a working joystick input device. I'll try and get it wired up tomorrow.

[Warhog]

Thanks Guys

 

Gives me something to start with.

 

I'm going to order some of those cutters ASAP!

 

Deezle

 

Did you design your panels from scratch? Font size and everything else look very good(IMO)!

 

Warhog

 

Regarding your altimeter did you use the square endmill for the large numbers and graduations? And also where did you get/what kind of engraving plastic did you use for it?

 

Amazing what the results are that everyone is coming up with.

 

Thinking of starting a new CNC thread to discuss details. Any thoughts anybody?

 

Thanks

 

Clay

 

Clay,

 

I use the same v bit cutter for everything that is engraved. The large fonts are "Arial outline". I use the pocket function in "CamBam" and it creates the G-code to remove all of the material from inside the outline of each letter. Any thick lines are done that way as well as you can see with the 100 foot tick marks below. This is an example of the Altimeter faceplate in CamBam. You can see what the letters look like. Sometimes I adjust the depth of cut to increase or decrease how much is cut as its a 60 degrees v-bit. The deeper the cut the wider it cuts.

 

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/687/20276323533_3e40c80f05_b.jpg' alt='20276323533_3e40c80f05_b.jpg'>CamBam Altimeter by John Wall, on Flickr[/img]

 

Engraving plastic is readily available in North America. I use Rowmark 222-412 1/16" thick 2 ply matt black/bright white.

 

I would welcome a "sticky" CNC thread and also a separate "Laser cutter" thread where people could post what they use, how they do it and the results they get. It would let others be able to evaluate the different techniques and equipment available so they can be better informed to choose whatever will suit there budget and skill set.

[Deezle]

I got my Teensy Arduino board wired in. I was able to program it so it sends a pulse when I throw a switch on or off, so no more custom LUA files to utilize the toggles properly. Ideally I'd emulate a different button press when a switch is turned off vs on, however the code I have only works up to 32 buttons and I'm way too much of a noob to expand on that yet. This would give the greatest versatility with other aircraft.

 

Here's the underside of the panel, I quickly installed the Teensy using the existing wiring so it's a little messy.

 

 

And the completed panels with CDU keypad.

 

[ClayM]

CDU keys look great!

 

How do you get your switch extensions to fasten to the bat?

 

epoxy or something similar?

 

I assume you make the extensions small enough O.D. that you can still get the nut off if you need to replace the switch?

 

Thanks

 

ClayM

[Corbett1403]

Can you build me one.

[Warhog]

CDU keys look great!

 

How do you get your switch extensions to fasten to the bat?

 

epoxy or something similar?

 

I assume you make the extensions small enough O.D. that you can still get the nut off if you need to replace the switch?

 

Thanks

 

ClayM

 

Clay, the max dia is around .485" That allows removal. I use epoxy for mine. I have a neat technique for assembling the extensions that I'll post next week on a separate thread.

 

Deezle, that looks really great. You do nice work. What machines do you have in your shop?

 

John

[Deezle]

Yeah the extensions are epoxied on and small enough to remove the nuts.

 

We have a Vision Pro CNC engraver, an Epilog 60w laser engraver, a CNC Bridgeport mill and an old manual Rockwell lathe.

[Deadman]

Dam your set to make panels :thumbup:

[Warhog]

Yeah the extensions are epoxied on and small enough to remove the nuts.

 

We have a Vision Pro CNC engraver, an Epilog 60w laser engraver, a CNC Bridgeport mill and an old manual Rockwell lathe.

 

I sure wouldn't mind having that Bridgeport with CNC. My wife would never see me.:music_whistling:

 

Unfortunately all my machines are in the basement with a set of stairs to traverse. That kind of restricts me to the smaller stuff. It took five really BIG guys to get may 10x18 lathe down the stairs. Same with my mill.

[Deezle]

I picked up a NMSP panel from American Milspec, for $5 I can't justify making my own. I've drawn it up in perpetration for drilling the back plate for mounting the switches. I think I've found push buttons that will somewhat mimic the Korry switches.

 

I also placed an order for some encoders and knobs to make all the radios. They're going to be fairly stripped down function-wise but do everything you'd typically need them to do.

 

 

This is what I've got so far. They're push button encoders so I can use those to mimic the function of some of the missing knobs.

 

Edited September 5, 2015 by Deezle

[Warhog]

Why don't you add some LCD displays for the panels you've shown above. They're only couple of dollars each, they are easy to connect with DCS using DCS-BIOS and they look really cool as well.

 

There is even a tutorial in the first thread on DCS-BIOS where Ian takes you through the process in about 3 minutes. And thats pretty easy if you ask me.

[Deezle]

I've thought about using 7 segment LEDs but that seems to be in way over my head. I'd have to do more reading on the subject. Not to mention I already have an ungodly amount of USB cables strewn about.

[Deezle]

Well I've played around with DCS Bios and one of my Teensy boards and have made a working Master Caution LED, and played with a servo tied to the flaps indicator so I think I might be able to pull it off.

 

Any info on you radio Panels Warhog? I've seen yours with the 7 seg displays and they look fantastic :thumbup:

[Deezle]

I think I'm going to forego the displays for now. I got an Arduino Mega knockoff that I've been playing with DCS bios making sure I can make everything work how I want, and most of the parts I need to keep going on panels. The radios will be mostly complete now and I'm doing the Lighting Panel too.

 

I'll be using pots for the lights and volume controls and encoders for the radio channel knobs.

 

 

[Warhog]

Hi Deezle

 

Thank you for the compliment on my radios. If you want to use 7 seg displays just do a search using arduino and Max7219. It's easy to make these and programming the arduino is not hard at all. They really make a huge impact on your cockpit. :thumbup:

[RightStuff]

Hi Deezle

 

Thank you for the compliment on my radios. If you want to use 7 seg displays just do a search using arduino and Max7219. It's easy to make these and programming the arduino is not hard at all. They really make a huge impact on your cockpit. :thumbup:

 

ACK on this one. These kind of modules are cheap and easy to integrate:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAX7219-CWG-8-Digit-Digital-Tube-Display-Control-Module-Red-for-arduino-/310634882296

[Deezle]

Well here's a crappy pic of my NMSP.