Problem with modding Elite Pedals to USB

[sharkfin61]

Well I guess I should have asked before but I was so certain about what I was doing ...:music_whistling:

 

In the attempt to bring new life to my TM Elite Rudders with a USB connection again, I disassembled my old SAITEK CYBORG X to get the rudder sensor (z-axis).

When I finally managed to have the logic board plus the sensors for X- Y- and Z-axis, I plugged that into the USB port of my rig but no axis were detected. (the joystick was detected in the device manager as a "Cyborg X" but no configuration in the windows 7 device Setup was possible)

 

Any ideas what I missed?

Edited October 26, 2015 by sharkfin61
final solution

[Haukka81]

There should be 3 wires to every pot/sensor inside pedals , game port pedals use only 2 wires for each pot/sensor so you need to add one. Least this how its done in old CH gameport pedals to usb mod (not 100% sure) :) ---> http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum/index.php/topic/3277-converting-gameport-pro-pedals-to-usb/

Edited October 25, 2015 by Haukka81

[sharkfin61]

Thank You Haukka81 for your answer. My problem is that the pots show no reaction at all when I tried them twisting manually (USB connected with my computer). They were all connected to the logic-board of the (former) joystick.

[Sokol1_br]

Try making the Windows calibration in Games Controllers (type joy.cpl in Start box), and hit apply - even if dont see pot`movements in the applet - sometimes this is need to Windows know axis range.

 

If don't work there's a chance that Cyborg X controller board was "killed" with static electricity during disassembly...

 

Not sure, but think this Cyborg X USB controller is low resolution (8 bits = 256 points), not good.

 

As alternative get a ~5-20$ Arduino Pro Micro board, write MMjoy2 firmware - through USB cable, this is done in ~5 minutes. Is 14 bits = 4096 points.

 

BTW - The potentiometer in Elite is 100k, if are not good (spikes) and you go to replace, buy a new with 10~50k - type B (linear response) similar size (pot` axis diameter, length need be equals to avoid adaptations), less "K" is better for USB controllers.

 

BTW - in USB controllers potentiometers are wired with 3 wires - not with only 2 like in Elite (is in this way due the Gameport):

 

External pin = +V

Middle pin = Signal

External pin = Gnd

 

Inverting +V and Gnd (in external pins) positions invert pot` response.

 

ELITE pot` rewired to USB - http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3159781/Re:_Converting_TM_Elite_pedals#Post3159781

Edited October 25, 2015 by Sokol1_br

[FSFIan]

As alternative get a ~5-20$ Arduino Pro Micro board, write MMjoy2 firmware - through USB cable, this is done in ~5 minutes. Is 14 bits = 4096 points.

 

14 bit resolution would be 2^14 = 16384 points.

 

The ATMega32u4 on the Arduino Pro Micro has a 10-bit ADC (for 2^10 = 1024 points).

If you want to get more than 10-bit resolution out of that board, you need to add an external ADC chip.

[Sokol1_br]

Off topic:

 

 

 

 

MMjoy2 JoySetup allow select up to 14 bits for axis resolution, but maybe like the Warthog/T16k-M "16 bits" announced resolution is supposed some software trick, who know... ?

 

 

MMjoy2 is compatible with external ADC like MCP3204/3208 maybe that announced high resolution is using this... I don't know, I am just "selling the fish like I buy". :D

 

Anyway even if limited to 10 bits using pot' this is four times more than 8 bits. And is a cheap controller option. :thumbup:

 

If needed is easy add a External ADC to potentiometers:

 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2015 by Sokol1_br

[sharkfin61]

Thank you Sokol1_br for your answer.

 

Try making the Windows calibration in Games Controllers (type joy.cpl in Start box), and hit apply - even if dont see pot`movements in the applet - sometimes this is need to Windows know axis range.

 

Did that, the joystick was detected as Cyborg X, no visible movement in the axis

 

If don't work there's a chance that Cyborg X controller board was "killed" with static electricity during disassembly...

Would it than also be detected as "Cyborg X" or just ad a new HID device?

 

 

Not sure, but think this Cyborg X USB controller is low resolution (8 bits = 256 points), not good.

 

As alternative get a ~5-20$ Arduino Pro Micro board, write MMjoy2 firmware - through USB cable, this is done in ~5 minutes. Is 14 bits = 4096 points.

 

BTW - The potentiometer in Elite is 100k, if are not good (spikes) and you go to replace, buy a new with 10~50k - type B (linear response) similar size (pot` axis diameter, length need be equals to avoid adaptations), less "K" is better for USB controllers.

I'll try to find the original poti and the "sawblade"-adapter that acts as the transmission from the pedals. Hope I don't get lost in my attics mess ...:cry:

 

 

BTW - in USB controllers potentiometers are wired with 3 wires - not with only 2 like in Elite (is in this way due the Gameport):

 

External pin = +V

Middle pin = Signal

External pin = Gnd

 

Inverting +V and Gnd (in external pins) positions invert pot` response.

 

ELITE pot` rewired to USB - http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3159781/Re:_Converting_TM_Elite_pedals#Post3159781

 

Would it be easier/ wiser to go for a leobodnar board with Hall-sensor?

[sharkfin61]

Ok guys,

Thank you again for your help.

 

As Christmas is approaching, I decided to take the plunge and ordered my set of MFG Crosswinds. I didn't buy a TM Warthog on one hand to fiddle around with a pair of DIY rudders conversion on the other.

 

If anyone want's to have the ELITE rudders for free (just pay the shipping), PM me.

They will remain in my attic for 1 week until the go to the dump.

 

 

Looking forward 'till January to receive the MFG's, trembling in impatience....

[G00dnight]

why did you not use a Gameport to usb converter just plug and play, Had one for my simpeds for years.

[Sokol1_br]

 

If don't work there's a chance that Cyborg X controller board was "killed" with static electricity during disassembly...

Would it than also be detected as "Cyborg X" or just ad a new HID device?

 

Well, if is correct detected: Cyborg X - this indicate that the controller are "live". :)

 

Perhaps a bad contact in pot' wires? If you put pictures of the board maybe help "de-bug".

 

Would it be easier/ wiser to go for a leobodnar board with Hall-sensor?

 

Is a better solution, but in this case the work will be more than just replace pot' - HALL sensor DIY* is a bit trick to place properly, they are very small (~2mm side) and if are 0,05mm out of place - relative to magnets - changed the readings... Involve many "trial and errors"...

 

Put one (Honeywell SS495A-1 using "Bic" assembly) in CH Pedal (+MMjoy2, ball bearing, RC helicopter ball-links... a "headache"). :doh: http://s18.postimg.cc/l57f4au6h/HALL_CH.jpg

 

* A alternative: HALL pot', ($15) but require adaptations in the axis to replace the pot'.

 

The "easy way" is what you end done: buy a new. :D

Edited May 18, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[sharkfin61]

why did you not use a Gameport to usb converter just plug and play, Had one for my simpeds for years.

@ G00dnight:

 

After disassembling, I threw my pot away because it spiked massivly.

I was about ordering a Hall Sensor conversion kit that "cubpilot" sold in the former days. As I bought Saitek Rudders soon thereafter, the ELITE pedals were gathering dust in a corner of the attic. Last year, in a moment of brainstorm, I sold almost my whole flight-sim stuff (incl. Warthog, Cougar, Saitek rudders, MFDs, TIR4 and 5, ...bla bla bla...). A few weeks ago I threw away my set of full metal rudders (also game port equipped with an USB converter). I never thought I'd be simming again.

But here I go again, the virus won't let me go ....