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VKB T-Rudder Pedals - Review


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This is "normal", the whining is caused during (strong) spring distension, the spring "hook" move slight over the anchor point, that has square corners.

 

VKB recommend put a drop of oil/grease there (anchor point) - but not WD40 or other kind of oil spray, this will "paint" the pedal interior and attract dirt.

 

I "muffled" this sound by "soften" the contact point.

 

 

This was not the case on mine, and his might be of the same batch...

 

the spring had worn down material from the tensioner screw holder.

 

I also have a foam piece inside the spring so it is dead quiet now.

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This was not the case on mine, and his might be of the same batch...

 

the spring had worn down material from the tensioner screw holder.

 

I also have a foam piece inside the spring so it is dead quiet now.

 

Seems more that you have luck, in Il-2 and other forum are guys complain about the "kiii-kiiii" sound of T-Rudder and VKB suggest a drop of tick oil in spring hooks.

 

May with use the anchor point wear and minimize the sound.

 

Besides this, spring extension/distension tend to cause a "zbroiiing" sound, with I put heatshrink tube over and soft cloth inside the spring.

 

In VKB RDR XXI (discontinued) they already put the heatshrink over the spring.

 

rdr21-s.jpg

 

BTW - My T-Rudder is Mk.III and don't have this "tensioner" thing to contact the spring and are a bit of "kiii-kiii". :)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Seems more that you have luck, in Il-2 and other forum are guys complain about the "kiii-kiiii" sound of T-Rudder and VKB suggest a drop of tick oil in spring hooks.

 

May with use the anchor point wear and minimize the sound.

 

Besides this, spring extension/distension tend to cause a "zbroiiing" sound, with I put heatshrink tube over and soft cloth inside.

 

In VKB RDR XXI (discontinued) they already put the heatshrink over the spring.

 

VKB_Mk_21ss.jpg

 

I agree with you mine was probably a tolerance problem from manufacturing.

If it was the spring sound only i would probably not care much.

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This community is really great!

 

Thank you so much Hoffster :thumbup: The problem is as you described: friction between the spring and the black tensioner pole (B) at the location labelled (A) in the picture below.

And I saw marks of the friction too. So, as per your advice, I removed the black tensioner pole because the default tension is just fine for me. I would certainly not need more tension.

For guys who are not into DYI like me, here is a

in which you will see how to disassemble the rudders.

 

Thank you too Sokol1_br :) for the heads up regarding the whining caused by the spring hook moving over the anchor point and using oil/grease to solve this with oil/grease and not WD40.

Fortunately I don't have that, but good tip to know.

 

I will add reputation to both of you if the forum system allows me to.

 

Now the only sound I have is the rudder returning to center if press right / left / right / left like crazy and do not cushion the movement. But that is normal IMHO.

 

By the way, I received 2 additional springs. They look identical. Are those spare springs or what VKB call "CAM"?. And I did not see any CAM option to order on the VKB website.

Just asking to understand as at this time all is fine for me.

 

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=170849&stc=1&d=1508358458

vkb_whining.png.6717cb55a80c412b08bca5e6ee5dd655.png


Edited by Simicro

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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The "CAM" is that steel piece with curved profile against the bearing, their upper part has different profile - I guess with a more "soft" center, and you can flip that piece.

 

So you have two options of CAM and can combine both with 3 different tension springs until find the more suitable "feel".

 

For invert the CAM see in the above linked VKB "how to" video.

 

BTW - The function of the tensioner is move the bearing from the CAM making the disassemble more easy, since the spring used is strong.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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I understand, thanks.

 

It's smart to have 2 CAM in one piece and changing them by just flipping the steel piece.

 

The default CAM is fine for me but I shall remember that if one day I want to change it, I should re-mount the tensioner that I dismounted today.

 

Oh, so the 2 additional springs provided have different tensions... even if they look the same.

 

Sorry, I'm curious: I can see you and rrohde posting a lot in this thread. I am wondering if both of you are linked with VKB or just passionate? Just asking for knowledge, nothing else intended.

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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Rrohde is VKB representative for USA/Canada market, he manage the site http://www.vkbcontrollers.com

 

I am... just "passionate" about controllers, and as I know about VKB since ~2004 and their difficult in communicate in Western forums (language) I try help.

Now with Rrohde and new VKB (employer?) AeroGator who have good English, things are running fine. :thumbup:

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So overall I'm happy with the rudders :)

 

However, I did not say so far but the spring touching the tensioner screw pole causing the high pitch whining sound is very sad (not to say not acceptable) for such a high quality product (in its 4th generation?). Customers should not have to disassemble the device, and file the screw pole or remove it to solve the problem.

 

Obviously, there was a glitch on the series batch and a lack of quality control. I hope that this will be solved for future customers.

 

Regarding this problem, I sent an email last wednesday using the webform (Contact Us) of VKB Europe website... and so far no reply. Maybe the webform is not working properly or... wait and see? On the other side I must say that I ordered on a saturday and the product shipped on the same day.

 

Is there a representative of VKB Europe on this forum (just as rrohde for USA/Canada)?

 

By default (before assembly) one pedal is higher than the other and the same after assembly. Can I adjust the heights of each pedal so that they are the same?


Edited by Simicro

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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You are incredible and always here Sokol1_br :thumbup:

 

I appreciate.

 

Remove that nuts that you need fit at start (1): OK I understand that.

 

Regarding "turnbluckles", I'm not sure. Can you please take this picture and draw a red arrow on the turnbluckles?

vkb.png.0f3275569507c10a87b5fd4238c4338f.png

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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Many thanks!

 

I succeeded in equalizing more or less the heights of the pedals.

 

I tried to give you reputation points but the forum system won't let me to :(

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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For mates who have purchased the Mk-IV recently, be aware that it is NOT RECOMMENDED to calibrate the rudders with Windows > Devices and printers > Game controllers settings.

 

I did and it messed things up (I lost rudder centering) and I had to dig in the official forum to find that out... Really bad :(

 

In case it happens to you, you have to run the VKB config utility. It will detect automatically that changes have been done through Windows and will reset factory settings.

 

By the way, it is sad that there is no english manual for the VKB config utility :(

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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Thank you Aerogator.

 

What about the whining sound on the production batch? I know at least 2 other guys who had the problem.

- Tony -

. My Reviews: Oilfield Campaign - Argo Campaign l My Mission: Huey Ramp Start Voice-Over New!

. Microsoft Force Feedback 2 base modded with a CH Fighterstick - VKB Sim T-Rudder Mk.IV Pedals

. Intel i5 4670K @4.3 GHz - 32 Gb DDR3 - MSI GTX 1080 - ASUS PG278QR 27" 2K @165 Hz G-Sync

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whining sound

Does the strange sound remain after you replace springs? Try replacing them (just for the sake of experiment, even if you're happy with the springs you currently have) and use pedals for some short time. Is the sound still audible?

>

Best Regards from VKB Lair,

AeroGator

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Does the strange sound remain after you replace springs? Try replacing them (just for the sake of experiment, even if you're happy with the springs you currently have) and use pedals for some short time. Is the sound still audible?

 

I tested mine back and forth with all the springs, they all have contact with the "tensioner" metal on metal noise and marks.

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I tested mine back and forth with all the springs, they all have contact with the "tensioner" metal on metal noise and marks.
Same as Hoffster

OK now I understand.

There was an issue with one batch. Indeed, the spring we got from the supplier was of a slightly bigger diameter. Our guys assembled and packed the whole batch before we realized there was a problem. It was impossible to unpack, disassemble, replace the springs, and do the same in reverse order again simply because we were pushed by time to ship the orders out.

So we added spare springs to every parcel; those spare springs are a bit smaller but have the same specs. In 99% of the cases replacing the springs would solve the problem once forever.

This is about the scratching sound.

There might also be resonating sound, even when the springs are not touching any other parts.

You can fight this by moving the eye of the spring a bit up or down the stand.

Alternatively, we recommend pulling shrink tube over the spring and slightly shrinking them (not as much as to jam the spring movements but enough to touch the spring coils).


Edited by AeroGator

>

Best Regards from VKB Lair,

AeroGator

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  • 7 months later...

Hi guys,

Just pulled the trigger on a set from X-Plane. In the mean time while it's winging its way down to Aus, can someone point me to a step by step setup I can get familiar with please? I'm going from a cheap TM set to these plus I use the hotas warthog....if that makes any difference?

 

Also, how do the virtual toe brakes work?

 

Cheers,

 

Phill

Ryzen 9 7950X3D - MSI MAG X670E TomaHawk MB, ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 AIO

64gig Corsair DDR5@6000, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 AORUS

Winwing Super Taurus, Orion2, TO / Combat panels, Collective with Topgun MIP

Winwing Skywalker pedals, NLR Boeing Mil Edition Simpit, Trackir

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... how do the virtual toe brakes work?

 

Run T-Link software, click START/STOP for active communication with T-Rudder (check STATUS).

 

Click in SET and press a joystick (or throttle...) button that want use for press virtual brake axes (Left and Right). The button BRAKES should light in red.

 

Click in TEST and and press the assigned button, in TEST area the sliders Left and Right should go up, pressing rudder for a side cancel the opposite slider.

 

BTW - ACCU is a kind of (optional) "dual rate", if use used when press the assigned button the rudder authority is reduced, may useful for precise aim corrections.

 

T-_Link_v_0.70.jpg

 

PROFILE save/load can be used for save a specific set of deadzone for a given plane, e.g. for UH-1.

 

SYSTEM is for set the pedal in bootloader mode (BOOT button) for upgrade firmware. Notice that T-Link don't upload the new firmware, this require the software ZBootloader-C.exe. DEF set default settings.

 

Click in HIDE for leave T-Link running and in game (e.g. DCS) assign the virtual axes created by joystick button for "Right and Left Wheel Brakes".

 

For use in games, press the rudder bar for the side that want brake, example right wheel.

 

Press the assigned button, will brake only this wheel, notice that brake action when press and hold the button is 100%. If "type" fast on button the brake force will be less, but is not controlled.

 

If rudder bar is keep in center when press the button both wheels is braked equals.

 

Notice: Rudder bar movement don't brake wheels, just determine if one wheel or another will be braked, brake both equals if is keep centralized.

 

What brake the wheels is is the two virtual axes pressed by joystick button.

 

- You should use this "differential brakes" emulation (is not "toe brakes") for planes that require "toe brakes", e.g. P.51, F-5...

 

- Planes that natively use "differential brakes (has brake lever on control column, e.g. Spit, Mig-15/21...) don't require use T-Link, just set the button for "Wheel brakes" in game controls.

 

T-Link is only need when T-Rudder is used as standalone controller, if T-Rudder is connect to a BlackBox of Gunfighter and so their axes became part of Gunfighter this "differential brakes" can be set through DevCfg instead T-Link.

 

BTW - Case you use IL-2:BoS don't need run T-Link, this game has "differential brakes" modeled for all planes of game, regardless their RL brake system.

E.g. Bf 109/P-40 RL use "toe brakes", but in this game you can use both system - "toe brakes" and "differential brakes".

I guess a concession for twist rudder stick users.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Thank you

Ryzen 9 7950X3D - MSI MAG X670E TomaHawk MB, ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 AIO

64gig Corsair DDR5@6000, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 AORUS

Winwing Super Taurus, Orion2, TO / Combat panels, Collective with Topgun MIP

Winwing Skywalker pedals, NLR Boeing Mil Edition Simpit, Trackir

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