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I don't own a Warthog but I think it is possible. You can do it like in F15 throttle. There is model for antenna elev. knob in my store. You need to drill a hole for a pot and add 3 wires in left grip.

 

This got me thinking it would be useful/beneficial to make adapters for a ministick as well as single axis pot to make them fit the TM 4-way hole size like the ones you made for the Alps 9-way. That way they could be easily slipped into the same holes either on the stick or just easy mounting elsewhere.

 

There are some nice pots that are small enough to press into a flanged adapter sleeve, and the male/female miniDIN at the base of the grip could be changed to one with more pins for the passthrough.

 

I'll try to find a suitable pot and ministick for this...

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From what I've seen lots want an f18/ f15 but after that would be kg13 for 109/190/mig.

 

Debolestis,

 

To give us a idea of how viable is print a 3D grip, you can verifity how cost print this:

 

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u688a84e3-d0f0-4e07-aed1-0715d11dd8f5

 

or:

 

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=1870c8e3d1267a38c023ee32d47e2fa9

 

Or this - only the "spade":

 

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u0de0a507-ee64-4a19-83b5-7fb2058ec4ab

http://spitfirejoystick.blogspot.com.br/

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Of all of these grips only a spade grip is printable. It could be done better and it would require some "post processing". All others are not in printable state and are drawn terribly. So I cannot tell for sure. But here is what I know:

 

Each 4way switch is around 10$, unpainted.

Each knob is around 7$.

Tailpiece is 14$

Paddle lever is 8$.

 

It is around 90 for 4 switches, 4 knobs, tailpiece and paddle lever. Still need to draw S1, 2, 3 and 4 but probably around 10$ so around 130$ for "small parts", all in cheapest material, unpainted.

 

I "disassembled" spade grip. This is what you get:

 

BN7XLdf.jpg

 

This is only a 2 pieces from that model, there are many other in that model. This 2 pieces cost 107$.

 

I assume that unpainted grip, warthog style, without electronics costs around 250$. It is not cheap sport, it is OK if you need tailpiece or a switch or two but for a whole grip it is not a good idea at the moment.

 

A more "industrial" method must be applied here.


Edited by debolestis
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Why not just offer all the small parts up and then those that really want to can just buy them. As far as I can see, it's either you start it up with the intention of going industrial or simply offer the products to us to buy. As much as we'd like there to be a more cost friendly option...a lot of us are OK with just the diy approach.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Why not just offer all the small parts up and then those that really want to can just buy them. As far as I can see, it's either you start it up with the intention of going industrial or simply offer the products to us to buy. As much as we'd like there to be a more cost friendly option...a lot of us are OK with just the diy approach.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

That is what I was doing in my store. I started with tailpieces and then knobs now I am working on 4way switches, soon I'll start working on push button switch. Soon I'll have most of small hardware for Warthog/Cougar style grip.

 

Going industrial is not what I want, this is just hobby to me. There are much bigger talents here, trust me.

 

This is my new project:

 

b5ROGSY.png

 

I am drawing a gimbal for Cougar, a member of this forum gave me Cougar enclosure, so now I can experiment with it. It will cost around 70$ without my markup. Screws, springs and ball bearings must be bought separately. Sensor and magnets also. It is similar to NXT but a bit bigger and adopted for 3D printing. I'll test it soon and I'll explain whole process of assembling and wiring.

 

There are still many Cougar around and this could prolong their life, I think.


Edited by debolestis
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I assume that unpainted grip, warthog style, without electronics costs around 250$. It is not cheap sport, it is OK if you need tailpiece or a switch or two but for a whole grip it is not a good idea at the moment.

 

... spade grip...This 2 pieces cost 107$.

 

Is more or less what I was think, based on other 3D printed/resin grips on sale. Example:

 

http://www.shapeways.com/product/NX77XZPDC/spitfire-spade-grip-b-type?optionId=39896922

http://www.shapeways.com/product/GJF97LAN8/kg-13-upper-part?optionId=55996326

http://www.shapeways.com/product/J425E9JWD/kg-13-lower-part?optionId=55996314

http://www.shapeways.com/product/YPAQZBDCG/fw190-and-f-to-k-me109-pedal?optionId=55092417

http://www.shapeways.com/product/W4S9X6LME/f16-pedals?optionId=58304963

 

 

And there's the issue of final quality, this Spit Spade in the pictures show very poor print quality, is OK for one that will do his own grip and can make a better finish (sand/primer/paint).

 

But all this people "ready to buy F-18's grips for Warthog" expect a good finished product. :D

 

Thank you for take time on this.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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It is different thing if you own 3D printer and other machinery, than costs can go down, maybe 100$ or bellow.

 

Shapeways is good for people like me. I don't actually want 3D printer, just something printed when I need it.

 

Those poor print quality that you saw in Spade grip is probably not Shapeways print. Their print is of great quality, not like ABS or PLA desktop printers.

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Debolestis,

 

What about "convert" this Tm B-8 for F-5, need a 3 way switch cap on left side button.

 

It can be easily done. You just have to connect toggle switch to appropriate pads on shift register.

 

Only pad Between H4P and S2 is connected to nothing. Pads between S3 and TG2 are S1 and S4. 4 pads below H1L are another hat switch but I forgot which one. On Cougar there is no H4P so it is also useless in that case. It is up to you what pad you'll use.

 

UVtvgpd.png


Edited by debolestis
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Looks more like a ridged half moon shape with a connector that would slide onto a 4 way hat or a three position mini toggle.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Debolestis quick question on the xfighter to WH base adapter. The photos you show have that white extender piece added to it. Will the adapter by itself mount to the WH base or does it require that white piece. I have a 20cm extension for my WH at the moment and am wondering if I just get the xfighter to WH adapter with the Gardena nut if it will be sufficient to add on and not create any extra length. Thanks.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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You wouldn't happen to have photos of the completed unit that you are describing here?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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But basically you're saying that the tailpiece plus nut alone is enough to mount the grip to the WH base. That white piece is not required right?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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