Debolestis Shapeways shop

[Sokol1_br]

X-Fighter on eBay 12$.

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

I used switches that I removed from old FLCS. It is probably "standard" tactile switch. I need to check which type it is.

If you could link a standard one that would be great then we could all be using the same one without problems. Hopefully all the stuff will be here soon and I can start putting it all together.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[jiblet]

Successful replacement of the tail on my broken Warthog: http://imgur.com/a/RYg3q, thanks debolestis!

 

Although the piece works perfectly, there are a couple of things that other users might want to bear in mind:

 

1. I used a 2mm drill bit to widen the 2 screw holes on the bottom where DIN connector attaches. They're supposed to be 2mm according to the description, but were pretty much pin holes on my print, so without widening them the screws couldn't get in to begin biting into the nylon. Not a big deal to do.

 

2. Because of the narrow hole through the neck of the piece, I had to tweak/arrange and carefully bend the cabling , including the grounding ring on the black wire (into a U shape), then push it all through very gently with a chopstick (high tech!). Finally, I bent the grounding ring back into it's flat shape and all was good with the world. Better to have the extra thickness on the neck though, just don't panic when you see it :)

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

What tactile 4way switch should we use for the thumb switch?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[debolestis]

Successful replacement of the tail on my broken Warthog: http://imgur.com/a/RYg3q, thanks debolestis!

 

Although the piece works perfectly, there are a couple of things that other users might want to bear in mind:

 

1. I used a 2mm drill bit to widen the 2 screw holes on the bottom where DIN connector attaches. They're supposed to be 2mm according to the description, but were pretty much pin holes on my print, so without widening them the screws couldn't get in to begin biting into the nylon. Not a big deal to do.

 

2. Because of the narrow hole through the neck of the piece, I had to tweak/arrange and carefully bend the cabling , including the grounding ring on the black wire (into a U shape), then push it all through very gently with a chopstick (high tech!). Finally, I bent the grounding ring back into it's flat shape and all was good with the world. Better to have the extra thickness on the neck though, just don't panic when you see it :)

 

Thank you for great feedback. I could go with thinner walls on nylon tailpiece, but I am not sure how will that go when used for a longer period on Warthog.

 

Holes should be 2mm. It sometimes happens with nylon printing, small holes are sometimes printed narrower. I think it is best to leave it as is, nylon is very easy to drill if necessary.

 

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Edited November 22, 2016 by debolestis

[debolestis]

What tactile 4way switch should we use for the thumb switch?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

I don't have any solution for thumb switch on X-fighter.

 

This will have to be improvised.

Edited November 22, 2016 by debolestis

[debolestis]

A few parts arrived recently. First let's see X-fighter tailpiece. I ordered it in orange color, and it looks really great. I have only plastic Gardena nut, I'll buy a metal one soon. I made 2 cuts on it, tailpiece couldn't go through without it.

 

Photos aren't of best quality, sorry for that, I worked in the evening.

 

 

 

Then I saw that I made error in my drawings. I misplaced mounting holes. Also shaft is maybe 0,2mm to wide. I am so sorry for this, I usually triple check, but mistakes happen and it can be fixed.

 

You can see white marks on tailpiece, next to mounting holes. There should be holes. I drilled new holes with battery drill, it was easy.

 

I mentioned in few posts before that capacitor on shift register is not needed. It is not true. I had some crazy button response when I put everything back together, I thought I had short somewhere, but it wasn't the case. When I added 100nF capacitor, then everything went back to normal.

 

 

Than I put everything back together. Shaft is just a bit to wide, but is not a problem.

 

 

One more for my collection.

 

 

Again, I am sorry for this error, I'll correct it as soon as possible.

Edited July 9, 2017 by debolestis

[Sokol1_br]

Probable this 5 way navigation switch fit for 3 Way switch in F-5 B8:

 

https://www.adafruit.com/product/504

http://www.protostack.com/buttons-and-switches/5-way-tactile-navigation-switch

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skqucaa010/switch-5-way-0-05a-12vdc-tht/dp/1435775

 

Wire only 3 positions, center and 2 sides.

 

Alps SPVL is 3 way will be ideal if not too small:

 

http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Switch/Detector/SPVL/SPVL_list.html

 

Alps RKJXL is too big (~15x15mm) for the available space.

 

Maybe this RKJXM1015001 fit:

 

http://www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/MultiControl/Switch/RKJXM/RKJXM1015001.html

 

Other "tri-directional" switch:

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SLLB510100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFLoxuNbFfpcZ5HqBisj%2fn9c0F0X3FaAc%3d

 

http://54-tpc1133glfg.aboutsemi.com/

Edited November 22, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[debolestis]

I mentioned before that I am working on Cougar gimbal. I acquired Cougar enclosure and started to work on new gimbal. It is similar to NXT gimbal but for a fraction of cost. I know that this comes maybe 10 years to late, but it will be possible to use this on custom enclosures. I'll provide a cutting template for custom enclosures. Than again maybe there are still a few Cougar owners who are stuck with crappy gimbals and would like to upgrade.

 

 

Idea is to print 4 parts and add ball bearings and few screws and nuts to it. I was worried on M36x2 threads, I have never printed threads before but fortunately everything works like charm.

 

Sorry for bad photos, I worked in the evening.

 

All parts seem to be very strong.

 

 

Ball bearing are not going easy into their slot but with few tricks they obeyed.

 

 

4 ball bearing are needed.

 

 

I was able to print slots for M4 nuts.

 

 

I don't have proper springs yet. These that I have are to wide any very light, just for test at the moment. I still have to buy few more screws.

 

In the end everything sat in place as planned. Whole gimbals are bigger than NXT, but It must had been done like that. I still have to see how strong it is when I find proper springs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made mountings for sensors that have 34,5mm hole spacing. Sensors like GVL224 and others produce.

 

I'll post test results soon. Planned price for complete gimbals is around 75$.

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Edited July 9, 2017 by debolestis

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

Which capacitor for where?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[Sokol1_br]

Probable this 5 way navigation switch fit for 3 Way switch in F-5 B8:

 

https://www.adafruit.com/product/504

http://www.protostack.com/buttons-and-switches/5-way-tactile-navigation-switch

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skqucaa010/switch-5-way-0-05a-12vdc-tht/dp/1435775

 

Wire only 3 positions, center and 2 sides.

 

 

 

The actual switch on B-8 grip left side is (or is copy) OMRON B3F (4055) tactile switch.

 

Their dimensions is: ~12 x 12 x 7.3 mm.

 

In Top Gun are around 1 mm of space between switch and grip walls.

 

The above 5 way is ~10x10mm and Alps RKJXM10 is ~11x11mm.

 

All suitable to use as "3 way".

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

The actual switch on B-8 grip left side is (or is copy) OMRON B3F (4055) tactile switch.

 

Their dimensions is: ~12 x 12 x 7.3 mm.

 

In Top Gun are around 1 mm of space between switch and grip walls.

 

The above 5 way is ~10x10mm and Alps RKJXM10 is ~11x11mm.

 

All suitable to use as "3 way".

 

So the B3F 4055 is a 4way plus push switch?

[Sokol1_br]

No, B3F 4055 is the actual press switch installed for default in Tm B8 sticks.

 

I should have said: "The actual switch on THRUSTMASTER B-8 grip left side is (or is copy) OMRON B3F (4055) tactile switch".

 

For F-5 3 way switch you need one "multi-directional" switch with similar dimensions to B3F, the listed above have similar dimensions.

Edited November 23, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Haukka81]

I mentioned before that I am working on Cougar gimbal. I acquired Cougar enclosure and started to work on new gimbal. It is similar to NXT gimbal but for a fraction of cost. I know that this comes maybe 10 years to late, but it will be possible to use this on custom enclosures. I'll provide a cutting template for custom enclosures. Than again maybe there are still a few Cougar owners who are stuck with crappy gimbals and would like to upgrade.

 

 

Idea is to print 4 parts and add ball bearings and few screws and nuts to it. I was worried on M36x2 threads, I have never printed threads before but fortunately everything works like charm.

 

Sorry for bad photos, I worked in the evening.

 

All parts seem to be very strong.

 

 

Ball bearing are not going easy into their slot but with few tricks they obeyed.

 

 

4 ball bearing are needed.

 

 

I was able to print slots for M4 nuts.

 

 

I don't have proper springs yet. These that I have are to wide any very light, just for test at the moment. I still have to buy few more screws.

 

In the end everything sat in place as planned. Whole gimbals are bigger than NXT, but It must had been done like that. I still have to see how strong it is when I find proper springs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made mountings for sensors that have 34,5mm hole spacing. Sensors like GVL224 and others produce.

 

I'll post test results soon. Planned price for complete gimbals is around 75$.

Save

Save

 

 

 

Can i use pots here ? Maybe version where is easy (even for me) to install potentiometers :)

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[debolestis]

Which capacitor for where?

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

Capacitor must be soldered, it will probably work without it, but sometimes crazy button response can happen.

 

Resistor on the left is not necessary. It is only necessary when shift registers are daisy chained, but it will not happen inside of a grip.

 

Edited July 9, 2017 by debolestis

[debolestis]

Can i use pots here ? Maybe version where is easy (even for me) to install potentiometers :)

 

 

Unfortunately not. I was thinking about that but there simply no room inside. But trust me, wiring hall sensors will same as wiring potentiometers, and hall sensors are so much better, you'll see.

 

I designed this with "standard" hall sensor PCB that can be easily found here on forum from GVL224, DVik, and in future from MFG.

 

 

Save

[debolestis]

Debolestis,

 

For example this HAT base, what model of tactile micro-switch can be used?

 

http://www.shapeways.com/product/G8ANJSVQR/hat-wide-2?optionId=61170857

 

Will help people if you add this in piece description.

 

It is 6x6x4.3 tactile switch. Here is the LINK. It can be any other that fits this dimensions.

[Thadiun Okona]

It is 6x6x4.3 tactile switch. Here is the LINK. It can be any other that fits this dimensions.

 

It also has to be a straight-mount solder-pin type or else it will not have legs that line up with the holes. The same dimension switches also come in smd, gullwing, or side-mount so one has to be careful when ordering.

 

Starting with solder leg style, 2 legs are cut off and the other 2 bent 90deg to exit the housing.

 

Also Thrustmaster uses 260 gram force switches and these come in a great many force values even in the same form factor. TM's switches are already pretty hard to tell when you've actually pressed the button or not and using lower force switches than 260gf (2.6N) would make that even worse. My personal preference are the 500 gram force ($0.75 ea made by Omron) which feel much better than TM's arrangement, closer to real aircraft switches.

[Thadiun Okona]

I forgot I was also going to post a PSA about the black acrylate from Shapeways. I ordered several parts in this material and was very disappointed with the results.

 

Problems:

-rubbery/gummy/sticky feeling, much softer than nylon

 

-surface condition -unacceptable-

 

One side of the parts look cooked, melted with bubbles in the surface.

 

 

The other side of the parts have a prominent hatching pattern of parallel lines on them.

 

Or have a texture like the grain of wood

 

 

Here's an album with more pics of my parts, it was not a fluke of just one, they were all this way. My advice is to steer clear of this material, it is not worth the premium price tag that is put on it.

 

http://imgur.com/a/VGY16

[Sokol1_br]

I think that overall OMROM B3F switches is the best option for joystick use.

Various size, operation force.

 

https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-b3f.pdf

 

VKB plan use then in Gunfighter.

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

Most people that would make this, including myself, are looking for a 4 way hat that will fit inside the xfighter or other b8 style grips where the thumb is. Does anyone have a link to those. Debolestis I have the xfighter now just waiting on electronics your pcb and your grip adapter from shape ways.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[Sokol1_br]

Most people that would make this, including myself, are looking for a 4 way hat that will fit inside the xfighter or other b8 style grips where the thumb is.

 

"4 way HAT" available for buy are big and/or expensive and don't fit in place of thumb button in Tm B-8 grips.

 

Grayhill GH7453-ND - is the same 4 way POV HAT used XFighter/Top Gun/FCS/ PFCS joystick, just without the "HAT" cover.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/grayhill-inc/04A/GH7453-ND/2138040

 

Apen 679-2289-ND - Is the same 4 way HAT of CH joysticks, with "China HAT" cover.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/apem-inc/500-526/679-2289-ND/2063280

 

Or Otto - several models with prices from 63$ to hundred dollars.

 

http://www.mouser.com/OTTO/Electromechanical/Switches/Multi-Directional-Switches/_/N-5g2z?P=1yyh514&Ns=Pricing|0

 

Other than this is the 4/5 way "navigation switches" I linked in some topic there, with their size information, for what is need make/3D print the cover. :music_whistling: ;)

Edited November 24, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[debolestis]

I am so sorry Thadiun Okona for that. I ordered acrylate only once and it was great. Maybe there is difference in European and US printers. What you have is terrible.

 

Here is my DMS. It feels very smooth, some lines are visible, but result look like factory finish.

 

 

 

Without flash

 

Edited July 9, 2017 by debolestis

[debolestis]

Most people that would make this, including myself, are looking for a 4 way hat that will fit inside the xfighter or other b8 style grips where the thumb is. Does anyone have a link to those. Debolestis I have the xfighter now just waiting on electronics your pcb and your grip adapter from shape ways.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

OK, I understand. This switch is in X-fighter at thumb position, more or less. It is 12mm tactile switch.

 

 

This is 5way switch:

 

 

It is almost the same shape as yellow switch above. It would be easy to install 5way on thumb position.

 

If you are beginner, then I think it is best option for you. I can make knob for it if you want, but first you have to test if fits. If it doesn't fit we'll see if something else can be done.

[RAZBAM_ELMO]

OK, I understand. This switch is in X-fighter at thumb position, more or less. It is 12mm tactile switch.

 

 

This is 5way switch:

 

 

It is almost the same shape as yellow switch above. It would be easy to install 5way on thumb position.

 

If you are beginner, then I think it is best option for you. I can make knob for it if you want, but first you have to test if fits. If it doesn't fit we'll see if something else can be done.

 

Whats that 5 way switch called, i can definitely pick a few up and test it out as well as the wiring to the pcb.