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Debolestis Shapeways shop

 

Hi debolestis i bought from shapeway the 13 degrees tailpiece.

The problem is that its holes are too narrow and the thrustmaster white connector that goes into the grip won’t fit in it.

 

 

Do i have to do something?

It is normal or shapeway made an error?

 

09474eed100b39c4a6f537fc7a1f11fa.jpg18ff327b4b59361db1465f6cf4f935d5.jpg

 

7932fc547a4fecba091182278e99f6fe.jpg


Edited by VirusAM

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Hi debolestis i bought from shapeway the 13 degrees tailpiece.

The problem is that its holes are too narrow and the thrustmaster white connector that goes into the grip won’t fit in it.

 

 

Do i have to do something?

It is normal or shapeway made an error?

 

09474eed100b39c4a6f537fc7a1f11fa.jpg18ff327b4b59361db1465f6cf4f935d5.jpg

 

7932fc547a4fecba091182278e99f6fe.jpg

 

 

There are tabs holding the wires on connector. Use something like tiny flat head screwdriver to lift the tabs a pull the wire gently and it will go out.

 

Make a photo of connector before you start, I always forget wire order.

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Debolestis Shapeways shop

 

Detach wires from the white connector. Pass wires through, reattach.

 

 

 

That is not what i want to do.

Thanks anyway for the reply

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Debolestis Shapeways shop

 

There are tabs holding the wires on connector. Use something like tiny flat head screwdriver to lift the tabs a pull the wire gently and it will go out.

 

Make a photo of connector before you start, I always forget wire order.

 

 

 

Ok i will try that.

Thanks debolestis.

 

Sorry f4ttyrider I didn’t understand your post, I thought you were telling we to cut the wires and then attach again

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I made it...but i was not able to do with tour method. Instead I gently forced the connector

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Debolestis,

 

Was wondering if you were able to supply a few Cougar parts as shapeways has gone a bit expensive since I had the Alps housing from your store (which works great in the formula rim).

 

You have on your SW page replacement TM HAT housings that have the switch post/shaft. Are you able to just supply the shaft/post part?

My DMS one finally broke after 15 years and I need to replace just the post.

 

The other parts I would like to purchase are the DMS Castle HAT and the F16 style locking nut.

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Hi Debolestis,

 

Was wondering if you were able to supply a few Cougar parts as shapeways has gone a bit expensive since I had the Alps housing from your store (which works great in the formula rim).

 

You have on your SW page replacement TM HAT housings that have the switch post/shaft. Are you able to just supply the shaft/post part?

My DMS one finally broke after 15 years and I need to replace just the post.

 

The other parts I would like to purchase are the DMS Castle HAT and the F16 style locking nut.

 

 

I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints.

 

 

 

Most of other parts I can print.

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I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints.

 

 

 

Most of other parts I can print.

 

Thats great, don't need the gimbals just the Hat post, DMS hat and F16 nut. Let me know through PM how much and how to pay.

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I cannot print Cougar gimbal parts because of strength. Shapeways has much stronger prints.

 

 

 

Most of other parts I can print.

 

 

Have you done any printing with the newer 3D870 formula PLA? It prints very nicely as far as

pla goes but isstronger than abs though likely not quite as strong as sintered prints

 

https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en

 

I'm using Filistruder Veracity Pro to make parts for my SFX-100 type motion platform I'm making.

It was the cheapest 3d870 formula pla I could find in the US but in Europe there are other

companies that would likely be cheaper for similar filament

 

Hope all's well on your end and you're staying safe, love seeing you continue advancing your offerings.

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Have you done any printing with the newer 3D870 formula PLA? It prints very nicely as far as

pla goes but isstronger than abs though likely not quite as strong as sintered prints

 

https://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Files/NatureWorks/Technical-Documents/Technical-Data-Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_3D870_monofilament_pdf.pdf?la=en

 

I'm using Filistruder Veracity Pro to make parts for my SFX-100 type motion platform I'm making.

It was the cheapest 3d870 formula pla I could find in the US but in Europe there are other

companies that would likely be cheaper for similar filament

 

Hope all's well on your end and you're staying safe, love seeing you continue advancing your offerings.

 

 

Hi Thadiun Okona, haven't heard from you for a while. I hope that you are good.

 

Thank you for PLA suggestion, I'll look into it. But I think that for my gimbal design it will not be strong enough. There is also problem with printing orientation and complex shape. On my CAM gimbal I used a few tricks and it works great but assembly was very complex and most people wouldn't like that.

 

 

 

But I can print almost everything else.

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Just an information for everybody who orders from Shapeways. They have stupid policy of increasing prices all the time. They have increased prices for anything that is painted again. White parts are 20% cheaper.

 

 

I can print most of the parts myself much cheaper. Here are a few examples that I printed last few days.

 

 

WS9rM3a.jpg

 

 

zDQXh6J.jpg

 

 

uJcUBHm.jpg

 

 

bC4MLoL.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
Hi, I just ordered the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece 15° offset and was curious if instructions are included for disassembly of the hornet stick. Additionally, is this the correct option if I’m looking for the same angle as the original stick?

 

 

I don't have that grip and I cannot make a video. If its anything like Warthog it is not complicated, I would only recommend patience and time. There are many tiny cables inside.

 

I am not sure what is correct angle in F18, but from looking photos of the cockpit it looks more or less correct.

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Hi, I just ordered the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece 15° offset and was curious if instructions are included for disassembly of the hornet stick. Additionally, is this the correct option if I’m looking for the same angle as the original stick?

 

I installed the angle tail piece into the Hornet Stick, it's identical to the Warthog and is easier to install.

 

I can't remember the details the only thing that's a little tricky is taking out and putting back the lever at the base.

 

As far as angle I don't know what the original/real stick has. Personally I always went for the 13 deg angle 15 deg offset, but it's a personal thing

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I don't have that grip and I cannot make a video. If its anything like Warthog it is not complicated, I would only recommend patience and time. There are many tiny cables inside.

 

I am not sure what is correct angle in F18, but from looking photos of the cockpit it looks more or less correct.

 

Perfect, thanks. I'm assuming the allen screws need to be removed and the stick just separates. We shall see I guess. Do you offer the models for download? I ordered thru your store before I dont have a printer but others in my group do have their own and would be interested in printing it themselves. Thank you sir! Great work.

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Perfect, thanks. I'm assuming the allen screws need to be removed and the stick just separates. We shall see I guess. Do you offer the models for download? I ordered thru your store before I dont have a printer but others in my group do have their own and would be interested in printing it themselves. Thank you sir! Great work.

 

You need to remove the brake lever pin first, I can't remember correctly but think the pin is held with a circlip. You take the pin out and pull off the lever.

 

After that it's just as you said, remove the Allen/Cap screws and split the stick. Then there is another screw to remove the tailpiece itself, but it really is very obvious when you take it apart. It doesn't fall to pieces like the A-10 stick with the top coming off, much simpler.

 

Don't sweat it, you'll be fine

 

The only problem is if you have ordered a metal tailpiece it need to be tapped for the screws, which can be tricky, but doable.

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if i understand this correctly;

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/UBB8WRU3A/warthog-throttle-part-afterburner-detent-with-0?optionId=66710386&li=shops

 

this removes most of the idle detent gap?

 

which increases the overall usable throw of the throttle ?

 

is it possible to get a combination of this and this?

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/9JAPAE26V/warthog-throttle-part-afterburner-detent-80?optionId=82333125&li=shops

 

to maximise the total available throw available to the throttle?

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You need to remove the brake lever pin first, I can't remember correctly but think the pin is held with a circlip. You take the pin out and pull off the lever.

 

After that it's just as you said, remove the Allen/Cap screws and split the stick. Then there is another screw to remove the tailpiece itself, but it really is very obvious when you take it apart. It doesn't fall to pieces like the A-10 stick with the top coming off, much simpler.

 

Don't sweat it, you'll be fine

 

The only problem is if you have ordered a metal tailpiece it need to be tapped for the screws, which can be tricky, but doable.

 

Much appreciated, thank you!

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Hi Debolestis, I just finished my X-Fighter mod striktly according to your plan. But now Windows joy.cpl shows me buttons 11 - 18 floating, especially if I play with the hat. Any idea what I could have missed? Greetings and thanks for a wonderful mod, shapeways parts and pcb's.

 

 

Edit:I have soldered a capacitor, but no 10k-resistor on the upper side of the board as you wrote it is only necessary if I would want to add more shift boards. Could that be the cause?


Edited by crash test pilot
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Hi Debolestis, I just finished my X-Fighter mod striktly according to your plan. But now Windows joy.cpl shows me buttons 11 - 18 floating, especially if I play with the hat. Any idea what I could have missed? Greetings and thanks for a wonderful mod, shapeways parts and pcb's.

 

 

Post a photo please.

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Apparently the back side of the PCB touched the ground pin from the trigger. The insulation I fabriced was kind of sh**ty. So some tape to the rescue. Works fine now! Just out of curiosity: The "pressed" non-existing buttons are because the warthog base expects 3 shift register chips? I am not really great in electronics but willing to learn... So again big thanks for a good documentation and clear instructions!

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